r/amplifiers

I come from the early 2000’s bumping with hifonics pioneer, JL audio and kicker combos and I even messed with soundstream for a while.

I just heard about taramps amps on Amazon and they generally have good reviews

What’s the word on them after the first year of use?

I’m looking to run 2 15 inch DVC 4ohm subwoofers with 2,000 RMS each

So I stumbled across this 4,000.1 amp.

I’d like real life experience vs just being told to stay away without real first hand experience on them.

Thanks ladies and gents.

js bought myself an electric guitar and frankly i cant afford a physical amplifier atm so im resorting to using my pc as an amplifier lol. im about to purchase a 3.5mm-6.35mm cable as well so id appreciate any advice on which free amp software to install on pc(windows). keep in mind im a beginner so i dont need any extra fancy stuff

additional question: the only proper pair of headphones i own atm is the logitech G733, is it good enough? i was warned about some sort of latency issue, while discussing about my choice of a virtual amp so thanks in advance for any further advice or heads up haha

Price wise only 60 usd difference. Everyone seems to love the champion but haven’t heard much about the lt50 why is that?

I Need some help what else do I need for my sub setup ima get the BOSS 616UAB for my radio off Amazon and then I’m buying 2 Rockville SS10P’s , RWK81 wiring kit and 25 foot of R8G25B for the ground and power , I’m 17 I’ve never worked with subs any tips or advice my budget is $500

I’m planning to install a 3-way active setup. Which option would be better for sound quality and overall performance:

Option -1

Using two amplifiers one 2-channel amplifier and one 4-channel amplifier.

Option -2

Or using a single 6-channel amplifier.

I already have a standalone 8-channel DSP, so the amplifier channels will be controlled independently through the DSP.

I’m a beginner and need a practice amp but I have no idea which one to get… assume that I’m getting both the fender and Cort at a similar price (Cort is slightly cheaper).
Fender has the brand prestige but then Cort seems value for money and give 5 extra Watts (does that even matter much?) please help😭

posting because I think my documentation might help other RX-A4A owners — and because I'd genuinely like to know if anyone else has seen this failure pattern or knows a working escalation path into Yamaha support.

The unit: Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A4A, purchased new June 2024 from an authorized dealer (Crutchfield). In warranty (5-year AVENTAGE coverage) the entire time.

The fault: The receiver shuts down during playback, tripping its protection circuit. It's volume-dependent — the louder it plays, the sooner it dies (anywhere from ~2 minutes to ~10+). After every fault shutdown it restarts at -40 dB, which I learned is the protection-trip signature (non-fault shutdowns like the eco timer preserve the volume setting — useful diagnostic if you're chasing something similar).

The history: The shutdowns started in 2024 and by August 2025 the unit died completely and went in for warranty service. It came back working — but the identical volume-dependent shutdown behavior returned and continues today, a year after the repair. Same reported symptom before and after factory-authorized service.

The elimination testing (all on video): Before pointing fingers I spent two days isolating variables:

• All new speaker cables; fault persisted
• Front L/R pair only, center set to "None" in speaker config, correct impedance setting confirmed: protection trip in ~2 minutes at higher volume.
• A completely different speaker (different brand, different decade) on the front terminals: also eventually tripped.
• ALL speaker terminals empty, during manual speaker setup: unit shut down and displayed "CHECK SP WIRES" — with no speaker wires attached to report on.
• Multiple speakers from two manufacturers, multiple channels, load and no-load: the only common denominator left is the receiver itself.

The support experience (Friday, Aug 14, 2026): This is the part that moved me from annoyed to posting. The dealer told me their troubleshooting process was complete and they couldn't assist further, and directed me to Yamaha. Yamaha's support line: approximately two hours on hold at position #1, after which the call was disconnected. A second call: 35+ minutes on hold, gave up. Yamaha's online support form: fails with an email-validation error — reproduced on two browsers and two machines. The live-chat link redirects to that same broken form. I was left with no functioning channel to open a warranty claim on an in-warranty flagship product.

Where it stands: Formal demand letter (replacement or refund, 30 days) going to Yamaha Corporation of America by certified mail, BBB complaint filed, FTC and state AG complaints queued. I have videos of the shutdowns, the prior service records, and a dated log of every support attempt.

My questions for the group:

1. Any other RX-A4A (or A6A/A8A) owners seen protection shutdowns that survived a board repair? Trying to establish whether this is a known failure mode.
2. Anyone have a Yamaha USA escalation contact or channel that actually responds — an executive customer-relations address, a rep who works these forums, anything beyond the (714) number?
3. Any service techs recognize this signature (load-accelerated protection trips + false CHECK SP WIRES with no load)? Output stage? PSU? Protection board itself?

Happy to share the videos and more detail. Not here to torch anyone but an in-warranty flagship that can't play music, a repair that didn't fix the reported fault, and support channels that don't function is a combination people paying the AVENTAGE premium should know about.

Hey,
So for a concert with some friends of mine i would need a battery to power my ampeg rb-108 (30w) for at least 2 hours.

Preferably one that can be reloaded and that is under 100 euros

What would you advise me to take ?

I was looking at this and find it very expensive. I am curious from electronics hardware perspective. what makes this amplifier so expensive? is it because their intellectual property or they really use something very expensive to build this. How much it would actually cost if you’re building it yourself (hypothetical)

I have a 2009 Ram 1500 with the base 6 speaker system. I have replaced the head unit with a no-name custom fit unit to gain wireless Android Auto. I replaced the four door 6x9s with Kicker 43DSC69304 speakers (100W RMS, 360W Peak) and the dash 3.5s with Kicker 46CSC354 speakers (40W RMS, 120W Peak).

I would like to add an 8 channel DSP (2 or 4 in, 8 out) and a 6 channel amp. I want the 8 channel DSP so I can easily add a sub later. I know I will have to run new speaker wire to separate the dash and front door speakers, and I will have to cut the gain way down on the dash speaker channels since they will have the same output as the doors, but that seems like the easiest way to accomplish what I want.

This is ultimately a budget-ish build. I'm looking for an amp in the $200-300 range, and sub $100 for the DSP.

Some amps I am considering:

CT Sounds CT-150.6D

Sundown Audio SDX-100.6

NVX MVPA6

DSPs:

BTS880

Taramps Pro 2.8S

PRV AUDIO DSP 2.8X

Do you have any experience with these? Recommendations for alternatives? Would it be better to move the DSP budget into the Amp and look for one with it built in? Would it be better to run a 4ch amp and wire 2 sets of the 6x9s together to make 2ohm to get a cheaper amp which gives more power to ch 3&4, and have ch 1&2 run the dash speakers at 4ohm? I can always run a separate set of wires for a sub later.

I eventually want to upgrade the head unit again. Mine isn't terrible, just occasionally has connectivity issues when running wireless Android Auto. I really like the "factory look" of this head unit, and I don't really want an iPad sticking out of my dash, but I could deal with a bezel as long as I get wireless AA and a volume knob. But that is a future upgrade.

I was recently looking into amplifiers that run about 800-1000 watt rms and I came across down 4 sounds JP line I was interested in the jp3, jp8,jp11 and jp13. I am aware they are all different rms rated but according to dynos they make 800 rms fairly easy at 1 ohm ( I am running 2 kicker VR 12s 4ohm DVC wired to a final load of 1 ohm) the only issue I’m having is that I have seen no dyno tests for the jp11 and I’m wondering how it stacks up in real world applications. Any insight is appreciated, especially new or different brands as I’m fairly new to car audio and want to get a better knowledge about it all.

I have Aiyima A07 Premium. What kind of Opamp I can replace? Is it compatible with all DIP-8 opamp?