Hi everyone,

I wanted to share an Android-exclusive app I’ve been developing called SpoolTap. It’s designed specifically for 3D printing hobbyists who want a faster, more reliable way to manage their filament inventory without relying on messy spreadsheets or locked proprietary ecosystems.

💡 What is SpoolTap?

SpoolTap turns your Android phone into an NFC-based filament scanner. Instead of manually typing in weights and material types every time you swap a roll, you can log, update, and check your inventory with a single tap.

✨ Key Features & Benefits

• NFC Scanning for Supported Spools: Directly read and log data from filament manufacturers that already embed NFC tags in their spools.
• Custom NFC Tag Writing: If you use standard third-party spools, you can write and link your own inexpensive NTAG stickers to any spool in your digital inventory.
• Comprehensive Inventory Management: Keep a clear overview of your materials (PLA, PETG, ABS, etc.), exact colors, remaining weights, and manufacturer details.
• Native Android Experience: Built from the ground up to feel fast, modern, and intuitive on Android devices.

🎯 My Feedback Goals

As I continue to refine the app, I am looking for constructive feedback from the community on two specific areas:

1. NFC Compatibility: If you use spools with built-in NFC tags, how does the reading experience feel, and are there specific manufacturer tags you'd like to see better supported?
2. Workflow & UI: Is the process of adding a new spool and updating its remaining weight quick enough for your daily printing workflow?

🚀 Download

SpoolTap is available on the Google Play Store: 👉Get SpoolTap on Google Play

Thank you for reading, and I look forward to your thoughts and constructive feedback!

Experienced 3d designer and printer enthusiast but can’t get multi-color mesh files I’ve designed to hold/translate their colors into the Anycubic Slicer NeXT. Using.3mf format painted in the slicer - when I load into the printer it will not let me assign the colors as shown in the second picture….

I googled and googled but I can't find the right tension on the red front screws I've tried the guitar method, the one where you fully tighten them and then a full rotation loosen, still didn't work, then I tried software which I am using anycubic next, which haven't caused troubles before. It started with files I have been printing multiple times before the issue so I don't think it's in software but I redid all the files anyway. Still nothing then as a final resort i tried tensioning the red front screws again when I noticed the brownish dust as well as rustlooking debris on one of the left rails see pictures could this be the cause or am I totally on a sidetrack? Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏🙏

PAID JOB BASED IN LONDON
Printer- Anycubic kobra 3 with ace pro

So in November 2025 I bought a printer, didn’t take it out of the box until middle of January and used it around the 18th for the first time. March the 6th it stopped working. Print quality was going downhill to the point where one of my last prints was just a lump of sh*t. I have been back and forth with the support team from Anycubic and they’ve just recommended the same things over and over again even made me buy replacement parts worth £30 then after 3 months of emailing offered me 1K of free filament 🤯. They are of no help and now are just defending themselves with aggressive emails. All I want is for the thing to work again. Last email I was asked to print something and show them. The printer now isn’t even recognising the ace pro even after unplugging it and re plugging it back in. The support team had no answer to this. I am requesting for someone to either A come and take a look at the printer or B have me bring it somewhere to be checked. ASAP

• Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
• PLA
• Anycubic slicer
• Bed heated during leveling and printing
• Auto Level and system calibration performed multiple times.

My first layer is inconsistent across the bed.
Left side = nozzle too far from the bed (poor adhesion)
Center = almost perfect
Right side = nozzle too close (over-squished)
The center of the bed prints beautifully, but the left and right don’t match.
The issue causes small parts to fail. In the fishing lure print I’m attaching, one or two pieces eventually come loose, get caught by the nozzle, and ruin the entire print.
Things I’ve already tried
Rotated the PEI sheet 180° (problem stayed in the exact same location)
Multiple Auto Levels
Multiple Position Calibrations
Re-dialed Z-offset many times
Heated the printer before leveling
Checked that the print head returns to the same resting position
Checked for obvious bed wobble
Measured the X-gantry and found it was slightly out of sync
Removed the top synchronization belt and adjusted the gantry to make both sides more even
Re-ran Position Calibration and Auto Level afterward
Adjusting the gantry did improve the first-layer test, but it still isn’t consistent enough to reliably print multiple small parts.
My question
Has anyone had this exact issue on a Kobra 2 Max?
Does this look like:
X-gantry still out of sync?
LeviQ mesh/probe issue?
Bed carriage or eccentric wheel problem?
Calibration module issue?
Something else?
I’m trying to figure out what to inspect next instead of randomly adjusting parts.
Thanks in advance—I’m open to any ideas.

Here's a video to show the actual noise coming from the printer head from my last post. u/Catnippr for asking for it.

Hi, I have an Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo that is only 2 weeks old. I calibrated flow, temperature and Pressure Advance, reduced print speeds and dried the filament, but the problem is still exactly the same. The gold heart was printed before calibration. The blue heart was printed after all calibrations and settings changes. Vertical walls are smooth, but curved top surfaces are always rough like in the photos. Has anyone had this problem? Is this more likely a slicer setting, cooling issue or a hardware problem? Thanks!

I recently had a problem with my Kobra X. I tried to fix it by myself, but I couldn't... so I contacted the support center, and they quickly assisted me without asking too many questions :D

I hope to be able to post some prints soon.

In the meantime, you can see what the small and affordable Photon Mono 4 can do. With a resolution of 10k on a monitor of just 133.5 cm², it has a resolution of almost 1500 DPI!

I love it! :D

I also shared the clay of the model, so you can compare them. Let me know! :D

Keep having issues trying to print this lazy Susan for my wife. I have (not necessarily in this order)

1. Taken the head completely apart to make sure no clog (was getting clog error non stop but have no actual flow issues during tests)

2. Got a filament dryer

3. Tried both Anycubic PLA+ and Sunlu filaments

4. Cleaned plate with dawn/hot water

Is this an adhesion issue or a temp issue? Nozzle starts dragging the filament everywhere. Was guessing adhesion issue, but the first time this happened with the print (not shown) wasn't until a much higher level and the bottom was firmly in place...

It's the PEI plate it comes with, standard temp of 60°. .4 Nozzle, .2 layer height. (Originally had 'clogging' issue with my .2 nozzle so switched back to .4, that was when I took it apart)

I'm trying out that foaming tpu filament and this is the result. It's a pretty simple model, but this is what I'm getting.

Any tips?

It would probably make more sense if the white fila guide tube clip closest to the extruder was turned 180 degrees, which would shoot the PTFE tension towards instead of pulling the harness into the gantry rails.

While you're here marvel in the auto leveling capacity to utilize the mesh to smooth out imperfections /s

This thing is 3 wks old.