r/anycubic

Hey guys, the black filament got stuck inside the printhead/hotend of my Anycubic Kobra X and I can’t remove it by pulling it, even with the nozzle heated.
I followed Anycubic’s own tutorial to remove the heatsink and take out the hotend, but I need to remove two screws using an H2.5 Allen key and they simply won’t move. The key fits perfectly, I even tried carefully using pliers for more leverage, but they won’t turn even a tiny bit.
The printer is less than a month old and I’m scared of stripping the screws if I keep trying. Has anyone else had this happen? How did you get them loose?

I had issues with color contamination when printing on my Kobra X multicolor models using Anycubic Slicer Next and the mobile app.
I haven’t solved the mobile app yet, but in Anycubic Slicer Next I found the cause of the problem.

I also made a video about it, which you can find on my YouTube channel Zemistr3D.
Alternatively, you can find it on YouTube by searching for “AnycubicSlicerNext ruining my prints”.
I’m not posting a direct link because I’ve already been criticized several times for sharing links and supposedly forcing people to watch them.

Long story short: The program has predefined fixed purge amounts when switching from certain colors to others. For colors that don’t match its predefined list, it uses a calculated purge amount based on a formula. The calculated purge uses more material than the predefined values. The predefined purge amount is insufficient for many colors.

Recently got some Overture Rock PLA for d&d terrain amd minis, but the filament just stops shortly after first layer but printer keeps going, what can i do to fix this? I ran 2 test prints that came out alright, but started on overnight and woke up to, well, a nothing print.

I changed to a .6 nozzle, 220 print head temp, 60 bed temp; using Orca Slicer; retraction speed set to 30 mm/s

Hey everyone,

I’m down the rabbit hole of trying to get the best possible bed leveling, but it’s proving to be quite a challenge.

I’ve already printed some spacers to raise the build plate slightly in the areas where the bed is sitting too low.

What I keep wondering about, though, is why the rear-left corner is so far off. The Z offset there is around -1.426, and I’m wondering what could be causing such a large deviation.

Do you guys have any tips or suggestions on what I could check or adjust to get the rear-left corner leveled a bit better?

Thanks in advance!

Just wanted to share and post a project i made because there aren’t really many Kobra Max mods out there, so I decided to make my own.

Replaced both the PSU and motherboard fans with Noctua fans since the stock ones are loud af.

100% worth it, the printer is so much quieter now.

First few layers print well then this happens

Hi everyone! I recently noticed this strange noise coming from my Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo when I turn it on or when the printer starts heating up.

The noise seems to be coming from the lower part of the printer, possibly from the power supply or one of the fans. What is interesting is that after the printer has been running for a while, the noise usually becomes much quieter or disappears.

I recorded a video so you can hear the noise.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their Kobra 2 Neo?

I would especially like to know:

• How can I properly diagnose which component is causing the noise?
• Could it be the PSU fan, motherboard fan, or another fan?
• Is this a common issue with this printer?
• If the fan needs to be replaced, what replacement fan/brand would you recommend?
• Are there any specific voltage, size, or airflow specifications I should look for?

I would appreciate any advice or recommendations before I open the printer or replace any components.

Thank you!

Ok so new to kobra s1 combo but not new to fdm printing.

Just setup my new Kobra S1 combo with ACE Pro v1, during the initial setup, I configured the WiFi, I connected it and added it to my app and it showed as online and everything looked good.

I unplugged it and moved it to the basement where my printers are, plugged everything in and started it up and now it won’t show up online in the app anymore. I have removed it and added it back to the app a couple times. I verified the wireless still shows connected and as you can see in the pic it is actively printing the included test benchy.

Anyone know why it would appear online at first and now shows as offline in the app. Better yet, anyone know how to get it to show up online again?

Tyvm in advance for any assistance you can offer!

I found this near a dumpster, then I connected a spare cable to see if it works, and it has this error t0 sensor abnormal and has head printer missing, I approximated this to be mega s model, and Im pretty new to this, and I wanted to fix this

I really need help. I recently got this Kobra Neo off Facebook marketplace and I can’t seem to get it to work. First off, the auto levelling doesn’t work. It fails at the second time down as the printer head just keeps going down till it hits the bed and the display just says auto level failed. I have tried lowering and raising the sensor and can confirm the sensor works as the red light comes on. Also, it might be a me issue but I can’t seem to get the z offset to work. The nozzle always seems very far from the printer bed. I have turned it down to almost -5mm and still the nozzle isn’t close to the printer head. Any info to fixing any of this is much appreciated. Thanks

The printer stops 50% of the time by my prints. Does anyone have an idea why?

I lost the screws on the bracket that hold the x axis on my kobra x and i want to know the size

These printed at the same time there were 3 total and only 1 with dots divots and surface issues the other two are perfect

Today I decided to make something simple yet elegant as a decoration. I wanted to test this print on the S1 Max (soon a post about the S1M, yes I finally received it, but...) as well as on the Kobra X. It's a Suspended Filament Vortex Cube Mini

The grey/black one with the Kobra X

The brown/beige one with the S1M

I had a bit of warping on the S1M side, but that comes from the profile where the auxiliary fans are set too high, the part peeled off slightly at the edges, but nothing to worry about. A small tweak in the slicer and it's fixed. I should have known, these auxiliary fans always cause problems

I'll do a future post also on how I did the timelapse with the S1M. Quality reduced on Reddit due to GIF format

There you go, enjoy!