r/anycubic

Probably a dumb question but can I omit the top holder complete and just run the Ace 2 on the side (or a wall shelf next to the printer)?

Trying to decide if I it is really a necessity for the Kobra X combo vs without.

thoughts? My printer is in the basement year-round, however I run dehumidifiers quite a bit and my humidity rarely ever gets above 50 in the basement.

https://preview.redd.it/p3usxprtgghg1.jpg?width=4800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cf6f87cd9f367b5321d3700f7ad69ed568d171d7

6th Giveaway Period: 2026/5/1-31

How to enter:

• Just join r/ChituSystemsOfficial
• Leave a comment

Prize: Every month we’ll pick one lucky community member to win 1kg of resin or 1kg of PLA+ (your choice).

Join the community once and you’re in for every monthly giveaway! And hey, the bigger this community grows, the bigger the prizes will get.

2025/12/8 Update:

Just found that Official Reddit does not allow moderator to have a list of subreddit owner. So in order to join in the giveaway, please leave your comment down. We will choose the winner among the comment. Any content will be OK. Thank you!

2026/1/4 Update: 1st Giveaway Period (2025/12) Winner: u/DetouristCollective

2026/2/2 Update: 2nd Giveaway Period (2026/1) Winner: u/Gurothos

2026/3/2 Update: 3rd Giveaway Period (2026/2) Winner: u/National-Anything-81

2026/4/1 Update: 4th Giveaway Period (2026/3) Winner: u/Domeward

2026/5/6 Update: 5th Giveaway Period (2026/4) Winner: u/Double-Square-2394

So I just placed an order for the K3Max Combo and the S1 Max, no combo.

And I was wondering, in hindsight, whether the K3Max will be shipped with the 2Pro or just the regular Pro, and whether the original ACE Pro will be forward compatible with a printer like the S1 Max

Anycubic just launched the Kobra 4 and I wanted to break down whether it makes sense to buy one right now, especially if you're already considering the Kobra X.

TL;DR: They're almost the same machine — but the differences matter.

What's actually different?

The Kobra 4 has the exact same frame, print volume (26×26×26 cm), and even the same webcam position as the Kobra X. The only real difference is the print head — the Kobra 4 uses a single PTFE tube input instead of the Kobra X's ACE Gen 2 quad-input head.

Pricing breakdown (with €15 discount code)

Version Price

Kobra 4 (printer only) ~€264

Kobra 4 Combo (with ACE 2) ~€364

Kobra X (printer only) ~€284

The TPU / soft filament problem

Because the Kobra 4 routes filament through the ACE unit's motors before reaching the head, using TPU or other flexible filaments in multi-color mode is going to be a headache. You can load TPU directly bypassing the ACE for single-color prints, but forget about multi-color soft filament combos.

The shipping problem

This might be the biggest issue right now: orders placed today won't ship until July 10–15, meaning you likely won't receive it before August. Meanwhile, the Kobra X ships within 24 hours from European warehouses.

My take

The Kobra X at €284 + a Chitu E1 Filament Partner dryer (€120) gets you to basically the same total cost as the Kobra 4 Combo — but with better soft filament support and you can use the dryer with other printers too.

The Kobra 4 isn't a bad machine — it inherits everything good from the Kobra X — but right now the timing and pricing just don't justify choosing it over the Kobra X.

I made a video going deeper into this comparison (with English auto-translation available) if you want to see the full breakdown — happy to answer questions in the comments too.

What would you pick at this price point?

My S1 printer freezes on every print job that involves a color change. On the first color change, it freezes at the cleaning tower; it doesn't even finish filling the tower, it simply stops halfway and stays there. I downgraded it and it started working normally again.

Conversando com um amigo sobre o uso do Orca Slicer, percebi que não havia profile nativo para a Anycubic Kobra 3 v2. Como Não achei muita coisa, usei a lógica que Anycubic Next Slicer e. Bambu studio são deliberadamente derivados do Orca Slicer,, decidi mas decidi fazer o seguinte teste:

1. Procurei na pasta resource no Anycubic Next Slicer o profile e arquivos da K3 v2, e copiei para as pastas semelhantes do Orca Slicer e do Bambu studio. Eram arquivos de ícone da impressora, um stl e um de configurações json.

2. No menu dos fatisdores Orca e bambu importei o arquivo json da k3v2 para bico de latão 0.4mm, como configurações.

3. Como após isso visualizei o ícone da K3 v2 nos fatiadores e conferi o IP da impressora, fazendo a configuração manual do IP.

Após estes passos os fatisdores possuíam os parâmetros standard de impressão para o bico, e fazendo o teste de conexão octoprint acusava que estava tudo certo.

Fatiei um benchy com as configurações de linha 0.16 de alta qualidade no Orca e enviei normal via wifi. Como estava sem tempo cancelei, esperei quase iniciar e cancelei a impressao.

Notei que não reconheceu a Ace, não abria o dispositivo e sua câmera.

Com tempo tentarei imprimir um benchy e postar aqui, bem como inserir os filamentos manualmente na ordem que estão nas Ace e tentar fazer a impressão colorida.

Se alguém puder fazer mais testes, e só compartilhar.

Still trying to decide which one to buy, I realize i'm asking the Anycubic board but i'm hoping to get honest opinions from this group as the X has not been out long.

Hey Makers! 👋

If you run a 3D printing business, an Etsy shop, or just hate waking up at 3 AM to clear your build plate so the next print can start, I want to share a free, open-source tool with you all called Looper.io.

Looper.io is an automated 3D print ejection and continuous production system. It automatically modifies your existing G-code so your printer will finish a job, safely eject the part off the bed, reset, and start the next print—repeating on a loop forever!

✨ Key Features:

• 🔁 Automated Ejection: Uses your printer's toolhead to push, scrape, or lift finished prints right off the bed. (Supports Nozzle Ram, Scraper Mode, and Hybrid).
• 🧠 Smart G-Code Intelligence: Auto-detects your bed dimensions, print area, and retraction settings just by reading your uploaded .gcode file.
• 🖥️ Built-in 3D Simulation Viewer: You can preview the exact ejection path before you run it on your printer to avoid unexpected crashes.
• 🧵 Filament & Temp Management: Adjusts auto-retraction, cooldown times, and bed heating cycles between loops.
• 🛡️ Safety Checks: Automatically blocks dangerous or impossible G-code moves.

It runs locally on your browser and is built with React and Three.js. It's completely free and open source!

Whether you're building a massive print farm or just batching out a bunch of identical parts over the weekend, this tool handles the manual labor for you.

🔗 Check it out on GitHub:https://github.com/naqashafzal/looper🎥 Watch the Demo/Tutorial:YouTube Link

We are also looking for developers, designers, and 3D printing experts to join the team and help shape the future of autonomous fabrication. Let me know what you think, and if you find it useful, I’d love a ⭐ on the GitHub repo!

Happy printing! 🖨️✨

My uncle recently gave me his old 3d printer, an Anycubic I3 Mega, because he wasn't using it, and I've been meaning to get into 3d printing. He hasn't given it any maintenance since he bought it, and barely used it, but the nozzle's clogged and it's not printing properly, giving a weird gaps/lack of material as if it was underextruding, internal structures of the prints not coming out properly, sometimes just moving the nozzle without anything coming out.

Based on my testing, it's a clogged nozzle, so I need to get a new one. Does it use a standard nozzle, that I can buy anywhere, or do I need to buy a specific type of nozzle?

Basically beginner here, go easy on me.

I currently have the Kobra Neo and am very happy with it. I'd like to get a new printer, but I'm not sure whether to go with the Kobra X or the Kobra S1.

What are your experiences?