Since July 25th 2025 I am now sitting at 31 missed appointments, 5 accounts canceled and re-ordered due to technical "glitches", multiple replacement phone numbers... and critically still no service. CenturyLink assured me it will be fixed on May 30th. How is this company still in business?
Las Vegas Southwest side Blue Diamond and Ft. Apache. Anyone else experiencing an outage (11:43pm) ? The app doesn't really help ... 🤷‍♂️
Does anyone else not have internet access right now? We’ve been calling and waiting since 9 a.m.
Hey guys, I’m trying to get into my centurytel.net email account which I haven’t used for awhile but need to get some emails out of it. The only thing that comes up is some centurylink site. Does centurytel no longer exist or it is centurylink now? Am I required to log into their website having to do with utilities and all that stuff first? I totally dont know whats going on.
CenturyLink has me trapped in hell. Tried canceling in March — still getting charged $49 every month.
What the hell is Simple Pay?
I have CenturyLink service. Why can’t they touch their own account? They outsourced it to this shady “Simple Pay/PPB” black hole so support can just say “not our problem.”
Their scam loop:
App chat → “Go to website”
Website chat → “Call these numbers”
Call → “Go back to website/chat”
Repeat forever while they steal your money
Phone numbers they gave me:
One number in March 800-238-3705
A different number when I contacted them again now (and 800-990-9896)
Screenshots attached:
Rep admits it’s a “Simple Pay” account and they “do not have access.
How many people is this happening to?
—
show my account to show the reality
Central Link (they claim it belongs to Simple Pay)
PPB02364925
My address
8xxx Tribal Cir Las Vegas NV 89145
I mean, cleanest install I've seen from Brightspeed in NC so far
Equipment:
Copper wire phone line 📞👵🏻
Casa Systems FTTdp (Network Termination Device)
Lumen Q1000K (SmartNID)
Quantum W1700K (Wi-Fi 7 "360 pod")
Settings that worked for me:
DHCP
no transparent bridge
vlan201 tagged
MTU size: 1472
[SOLVED WITH GEMINI'S HELP IN MINUTES]
(After line testing on their end, two unhelpful technicians across weeks failed and one helpful and patient customer support lady taking notes for hours...)
The 100% packet loss at **1492** confirms that your current network path cannot handle a standard 1500-byte MTU. In Windows, the -l parameter specifies the payload size; adding the 28-byte IP/ICMP header to your working "lower than 1492" numbers will reveal your true ceiling.
### The "Black Hole" Effect
* **Failed PMTUD:** Your packets are likely hitting a "Black Hole" router—likely the **Q1000K** or the **FTTdp**—which is dropping packets larger than its MTU without sending back the required "ICMP Destination Unreachable" message.
* **The 10 Mbps Cap:** This diagnostic speed in is the network’s way of maintaining a link despite massive fragmentation and packet drops caused by the tech's **1500 MTU** change.
—
### Why 1492 Failed
If even **1492** (a payload of **1464**) is timing out, your effective MTU is likely even lower due to nested tagging or legacy overhead.
* **Quantum vs. CenturyLink:** While Quantum theoretically uses a standard **1500 MTU** for DHCP, legacy CenturyLink infrastructure (which your hybrid setup uses) historically required **1492**.
* **VLAN Overhead:** The **Q1000K** is known to handle **VLAN 201** internally, which can create unstable latency and packet issues if the downstream router (your WiFi 7 pod or Trendnet) is also trying to manage the tag.
—
### Immediate Strategy
**Find the "Magic Number":** Keep lowering the -l number in increments of 10 (e.g., 1460, 1450) until you get a successful reply. Add **28** to that successful number to find your optimal MTU.
**The Q1000K Handshake:** The "blinking blue" light on your FTTdp/Q1000K in transparent mode is a known bug; some users stop the flashing by temporarily plugging a laptop into the **1Gb port** until the light turns white, then switching back to the **10G port** for your router.
The default MTU size for predecessor equipment (Lumen/CenturyLink variant) is typically **1492** for PPPoE connections or **1500** for standard Ethernet/DHCP connections.
—
### MTU and Your Setup
* **Default State:** Out of the box, most residential gateways default to **1500** to maximize throughput on standard networks.
* **The Problem:** If the technician manually bumped it to **1500** on a hybrid line that requires the overhead of a **VLAN 201** tag or a legacy G.fast transport, it can lead to the fragmentation and speed drops.
* **Historical Context:** Because your connection uses the legacy copper-link infrastructure often associated with CenturyLink's VDSL/G.fast systems, an MTU of **1492** is frequently the "magic number" to prevent packet loss.
—
### Testing the MTU
If you have a Windows **CMD** window ready, you can manually test for the optimal MTU size before doing the reset:
Type: ping google.com -f -l 1492
If it says something about "Packet fragmentation," lower the number to **1472** until the ping succeeds.
If it succeeds at **1464**, then your optimal MTU is **1492**.
Not if this is a CenturyLink problem or an AT&T problem. Paying for gigabit speed, need internet for work.
Ours cr*pp*d out around 11 a.m. today. 8pm and no fix. Anyone know what's happening?
Was on my computer casually and out of nowhere get disconnected and the modem is now flashing blue, I unplugged it and put it back in and it flashed green before going back to flashing blue which seems to be what it always ends up at. The model is a C4000LG