r/classicminis

TL;DR: How do I release the individual spade terminals from the plastic housing on this horn/indicator multi-plug on my ’74 Morris Mini? Is there a barb I need to depress with a pick before the terminal slides out the back?​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

I’m trying to take apart this connector on my 1974 Morris Mini - it’s the multi-plug that connects the horn and indicator/turn-signal wiring from the column switch into the rest of the loom. The second photo shows a new replacement plug I bought so you can see exactly which part I mean.

I want to release the individual spade terminals from the plastic housing (either to swap the housing or re-pin the wires), but I can’t figure out the trick. Is there a tab/barb on each terminal that needs to be depressed with a small pick or screwdriver before it slides out the back? Any advice on doing this without damaging the terminals or the housing would be appreciated.

(Photo shows the new replacement plug - it’s the old one currently fitted that I’m trying to take apart.)

I've only just noticed that the rear wheels on my mini are slightly crooked. Any ideas what might be going on?

Any help with this is much appreciated! 🙂

One year of owning my ‘93 Rover SPi.

Was already in good conditions but had to do some changes.
Mainly idle was an issue. Changed vacuum lines and fuel trap. No effect, till I discovered that the new fuel trap had a loose connector. Glued it back in and now he idles at 900rpm.

QOL improvement had been sound deadening and new exhaust.

Cosmetically, new rims, roof rack, mirrors and fog lights.

Performance, new spark plugs, HV leads, bullet connectors, K&N air filter, o2 sensor.

Pending is lambda sensor, manifold and suspension.
Luckily he already has HiLo’s but cones are a bit tired.

Sunday will be his first big oldtimer tour.
I will probably be the only Mini.

Hi everyone! I recently bought a classic Mini with an SPI engine. I took it on a short road trip last weekend and started noticing a few small oil leaks. There seems to be oil collecting around both the front and rear of the car, and I also notice a small trail of oil when driving in 1st gear or reversing.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas on what I should check first?

I’m also getting quite a strong petrol smell from the fuel tank area. I’ve checked the breather pipes and they all seem to be in good condition, but I’m wondering if there are any other common causes I should look into.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Wondering what the experts think about sill rust like this on a 1994 NZ import from Japan?

Manageable or scary?

Thanks!

Classic mini with a Honda VTEC B16 engine transplant and aftermarket ECU (DTAFast); tune not great, tended to run pretty rich

Sat for ~2 years due to a home renovation gone bad that cut off garage access

Cylinders were fogged, fuel had Stabil

Drained gas tank (but did not flush lines), refilled with 2 gallons (only takes about 5 total) fresh 93 octane gas with Stabil; Also added a bit of fuel system cleaner.

Prior to sitting, it could take a little finesse to get it started, but it started reliably

After sitting, it would not start. Inspected and replaced spark plugs, but they looked good. Engine would fire right up with starter fluid. Due to a misdiagnosis (I put the fuel pressure gauge on the return line by accident) I thought my fuel pump was bad, and replaced it. I was showing 0 pressure on the return line when cranking. Notably, when I got it started, it did show ~40psi on the return line. So still not sure if I have a pressure issue or not...

It also has a new battery that I keep topped up with a trickle charger.

OCCASIONALLY I can get it to start if I crank it for ages with the throttle wide open. Here is the puzzling part. Once it is started, it runs beautifully. I can run it for 10-20 minutes, shut it off, but when I try and start it again the next morning, same issue. Sometimes when cold, after cranking it for a while it will start to rumble (some combustion occurring), but won't catch and start.

I've rotated relays, including I think the fuel system relay, with no change.

I feel like it has to be a fuel issue or mix issue when cold. The pump only primes for a few seconds when the key turns on, then turns back off. But it turns back on when cranking.

Things I have NOT done: Replaced fuel filter, cleaned injectors, verified engine temp sensor accuracy, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced relay (though I did rotate some relays that I think included fuel system relay).

I'm feeling a little baffled by this. At first I thought it must be some bad gas still in the lines, and once it ran for a while I figured I had finally flushed it through, but the cold start issue persists. The fact that it runs well when started seems to rule out a lot of fuel system components (filter, pump, pressure regulator, injectors, etc).

What would you do next? Is there something that can go bad with sitting that would only affect cold start? Stuck injector?

Photo of the stubborn patient attached.

Thank you!

Morning folks, I’m having brake troubles. This is the front left wheel well next to the radiator. The brake lines for the disc brakes were installed last year. I have a brake fluid leak from this joint here. I’ve taken it apart, cleaned it out and reassembled it but I’m still getting brake fluid bubbles from the gap between the metal brake line and the nut, which I’ve damn near demolished. How would I solve this conundrum? Cheers, go well