r/cmaxhybrid

Changed out the eCVT fluid again after ~50k miles on my '13 hybrid (150K mi). Just like the last time, I pretty much emptied the 5qt jug of Mercon LV into the case before it dribble out. Last time I went by measured height off the ground but this time I put the tire back on, lowered to the ground, ran for 1 min and let sit for 5 mins (per the service manual) before removing the fill plug and let it dribble out until it stopped. Capacity is 4.5 qts which is pretty much what went back in when I filled. I found that by lowering the car past ride height, an extra half qt or so drained out of the case.

After ~50K of mostly highway driving, the fluid was a darker in color than the new fluid and the highly scientific finger rub test was positive in demonstrating a loss of lubricity. Is 50K mi too frequent? Maybe. The last time I changed the fluid, it was much darker in color but I was also doing mostly city driving.

I'm not sure if my frequent changes have any impact on prolonging the life of the known flawed early build HF-35 or if I'm just wasting my time. I figure ~$50 and an hour of my time every 4-5 yrs is worth it so I hope to post again in another 50k mi.

Ok so I believe i’m experiencing the dreaded transmission failure on my 2014 Cmax Hybrid.
131k miles
First sign:
Parked my car after driving about 30 minutes. Came back and car would start up normally but wouldn’t enter “Ready to Drive Mode”. The yellow wrench popped up as I turned the key further. I just thought it was a dead battery since I had been sitting in my car for a while before exiting. Jumped it and it started! Yay

Second Sign:
A couple days after, I’m shifting from drive into reverse and my car locks up into park. Hm. I turn it off completely, open and shut the door…nothing. Yellow wrench pops up. I’m thinking the battery died again. Call for a jump and it didn’t work like last time. Car also wouldn’t shift into neutral…Had to witness my car getting towed in the scariest way possible. After a night, my car turned on just fine so I drive it to a dealer to get a battery replaced because in my mind, I think it’s just the battery.

Skepticism grows:
Turns out, the battery wasn’t the issue. I park, get out to do errands, come back to drive home and boom. Yellow wrench, car won’t enter Ready to Drive mode, realized “Hmm, the parking symbol isn’t lighting up orange.”, and opened google to research. I’ve had this car since March 2026 (not very long and these issues started in June) and didn’t research that much. Discovered that my car was entering limp mode to protect itself from whatever. It just kept doing the same thing. Dies then after a couple hours will start and drive. I decide to take it to a Ford Dealer service. Car sat there for over a week until I called them and they notified me that my transmission was failing and it would cost 9k+ to fix it. I’m shocked because there have been no signals besides the yellow wrench when my car enters limp mode. But, further investigation on the internet made me question if I didn’t recognize other symptoms like the whirring/droninng noise, or the thump from releasing the brake to accelerating…I thought those were just hybrid car quirks.

Currently:
My dad decided that there’s no way in hell it’s the transmission and said that it’s some clogged sensor. He bought the part, 2/3 dealers said they weren’t going to replace it because my car was either too old or it’s risk. The 3rd dealer was going to replace it but had the wrong manual for the car. Took it to a transmission place earlier this week, and they turned us away because the car wasn’t showing any diagnostic codes. We’re in the process of finding a dealer to replace this clogged sensor. Now, my dad has been telling me to wait for the parking symbol to turn orange before turning off my car which does in fact work! However, sometimes shifting into park won’t ever make the symbol turn orange and my car just enters limp mode regardless. My dad also assumed that I’m shifting from drive to park too fast but I can assure you that isn’t the case because I love this car and have been really careful with it! I wait a good 5-7 seconds before shifting into park from drive. I’ve had to leave my car stranded in parking lots for hours until it would start. There was on incident where I was reversing in the street and my car entered limp mode. I’m tired and I miss my car. I haven’t seen many other stories of people who had these symptoms. My fear is though that is beyond a clogged sensor and my transmission might actually be failing. I can’t differentiate between regular hybrid noises and the dying transmission droning but that would be the only other symptom.
HELP

I have a 2015 ford cmax energi SEL with about 270k miles. Had my first major issues come up recently. Apparently the steering gear needs to be replaced ($2800 parts + $1050 labor) and waiting to hear why my new 12v is dead. They said they have to do a draw test because they’re seeing an interlock data error.

Depending on what that shows I’m wondering if you’d repair her, what you’d spend max to fix her up, or if it’s time she retires. I had to take her to a dealership because I couldn’t find anywhere else that would touch a hybrid 😞

Also, waiting to hear what parts are included in the $2800.
EDIT: parts are the steering rack and pinion gear.

my 2013 cmax has a new issue where the radio/stereo has gone out, im talking screen completely black other than the time and date at the top, it wont turn on or anything, and then shortly after the AC has gone out. it will stay on for a short period and then fade out and then make a buzzing noise toward the front or the engine (i’m not sure where it is) has anyone had this problem? im so lost

Does anyone have an image or can explain where the jack points are on a 2016 cmax SE?

I recently took my 2015 Ford CMax Energi SEL in for an oil and filter change. The day before the check engine light came on. I thought that it was just because I had delayed the work because money was tight. Once the shop finished the work, they hooked up a code reader. They showed me the error code was P04EF and then cleared it. They asked if I had filled the gas tank recently and I had just a few days prior. So, then they said that sometimes it happens after fueling up.
Upon further research, I discovered that this indicates "EVAP System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Low". They said that I might need to have the canister purge valve replaced. Upon further research, I discovered that this code is strongly tied to a known issue covered by Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 19-2207. It is usually triggered by a degraded or malfunctioning canister purge valve (CPV) sticking open. When this valve fails, it messes up the pressure in your fuel and emissions systems, causing erratic readings. It can also indicate that the fuel filler door and fill nozzle flap are dirty and need to be cleaned and lubricated. I have since done that and lubricated the fill nozzle flap with silicon spray.
However, a couple of days ago, after another fill up, the check engine light came on again. So, now I need to buy a replacement canister purge valve. I also bought a code reader since I want to be able to perform more work myself to save money.
I've been shopping around online and I'm probably going to buy one from Rock Auto or Walmart. They range in cost from $20 to $35. However, some of the brands I've never heard of before, so, I'd like some recommendations.

Rock Auto
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Gates
GPD
Motorcraft (Genuine Ford replacement parts - most comfortable with this choice)
Standard Motor Products
Wells

Walmart
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Dorman
Standard Motor Products

Which brands do you have experience with?
Which would you choose?

Thanks!

About two months ago, no power when stepping on the gas when in EV Off mode. When in EV mode, no issues and car drives regularly. Been using it to commute to work, charging and driving back. Get about 17 miles of EV range. Mechanics say it’s the catalytic converter and will be around $2500. Car has about 80K miles on the odometer. So far no mechanic wants to handle the amount of work, and one even stated it was the transmission and wanted to charge me $8K to fix it. Not sure how long I can keep doing the dance I’m doing, especially when the EV range is cut in half in the winter. Or do I sell it to Carvana or something and get a used Tesla or something? Really don’t want to spend money on a “new to me” car, but don’t know if this is the beginning of the perpetual breakdown of the car and I’m spending money every other month on a new issue.