After so much hard work, I finally did it Meet: working transparent HDD mod
it’s really works!! i’m so happy
it’s really works!! i’m so happy
I have been reverse-engineering the InsydeH2O firmware used by the Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 15ARH05 (82EY / IP3GAMING-15ARH).
The project started because this model exposes only a very limited BIOS interface, while common unlock sequences such as Fn+R+N do not appear to work reliably on this generation.
So far, I have:
FCCN21WW Windows update package;The hidden menu contains controls for:
One particularly interesting result is that the Advanced form set is not surrounded by a top-level IFR SuppressIf condition. My current hypothesis is that Lenovo/Insyde hides it through a visibility table or registration logic inside H2OFormBrowserDxe, rather than through a simple “unlock” setup variable.
I also recovered this form-set GUID:
C6D4769E-7F48-4D2A-98E9-87ADCCF35CCC
However, the runtime SREP patch has not exposed the menu yet. The laptop currently runs FCCN19WW, while the analyzed update is FCCN21WW, so differences in modules, patterns or variable semantics may explain the failure.
The repository documents the full process, hashes, extraction commands, QEMU findings, IFR inventory, experimental SREP configuration and suggested next steps:
https://github.com/root-hunter/lenovo_bios
Update: the hidden Advanced BIOS menu has now been successfully unlocked on the test machine using SREP. This is a runtime unlock and does not require flashing a modified BIOS image.
The method remains experimental and model/firmware-specific. Hidden settings can still cause a brick, boot failure or no-display condition, so do not change unfamiliar options without a verified SPI backup and recovery plan.
I would especially appreciate help from anyone who:
15ARH05 / 82EY model and can reproduce the unlock;H2OFormBrowserDxe;Issues, corrections and reproducible test results are welcome.
When I booted up my computer today it was completely green. I cant see anything other that green, it doesn't even show to windows startup and loading screen. As soon as it turns of it just completely green then after a few seconds goes to black then right back to green. I can still hear my PC running like normally in the background (I hear notifications pop up and such) but I don't seem to be able to interact with anything that would usually be on my screen. I have a windows 11 if that helps.
well, i am pretty sure my battery is about to explode from what i know. the photo taken is from the back of the computer near like the hinges and I didn’t even realize until i looked at it and noticed the top wouldnt fully close and I didnt think much for a while since I just leave it on a cooling stand for the longest time just opened ready when I need it. It is puffed up near like the middle ish I can feel. I could press it together a little but still seems like its puffed up. i am pretty sure i need a new battery, this model is the razer blade 15, i think the 2021 advance im not sure but for 4 years i have been using it every day battery plugged in and using for school but mainly gaming. should i just replace battery and maybe get a deep cleaning and im all good or do i need to do anything else
it's really annoying to do, all other devices connect fine pls help
Bit of context PC was bought from a family friend with no issues approx 4 weeks ago started fine but with only 8gb of ram couldn’t run a lot then started to crash and BDOS errors to the point it was happening after every start up. Followed chat GPT troubleshooting and then a friend who works with pc’s said just reinstall windows but I now cannot. Here is a summary of all the things I have done. Any help would be very very very greatly appreciated!!!!!
I have listed chronologically all of the issues and repairs. Again any help would be fantastic from everyone.
>!The important error history!<
The errors we’ve now seen across the whole investigation include:
Unexpected system restarts
SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E)
ntfs.sys
PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50)
Previous LiveKernelEvent 1A8
NVIDIA driver-related crashes/installation issues
Windows Recovery/Quick Machine Recovery loops
BitLocker recovery/boot issues following the earlier BIOS changes
Where that leaves us
The biggest finding is that the problem predates the current Windows installation and has now occurred during multiple clean Windows installation attempts.
We’ve therefore moved away from:
“Corrupted Windows installation”
towards:
“Something at the hardware/firmware level is intermittently corrupting or crashing Windows.”
The remaining hardware suspects are primarily motherboard/PCIe, CPU/memory controller, GPU, PSU and RAM, with the SSD currently looking considerably less suspicious based on the checks we’ve performed.
And importantly, we have not found evidence that the 931 GB or 238 GB storage drives are the cause, and we have deliberately avoided formatting them.
Date
Problem / error
What we did
Result
13 July 2026
BIOS changes caused Windows/BitLocker boot problems
Investigated BIOS after enabling Secure Boot/fTPM for Windows 11
BIOS/boot configuration became unstable; BitLocker recovery was repeatedly triggered
13 July
Secure Boot / fTPM issue
Checked CSM, Secure Boot, OS Type, PK state and fTPM
fTPM was eventually recognised as ready; Secure Boot/PK configuration remained problematic
13–14 July
BitLocker recovery loop
Checked BitLocker with manage-bde, including protection status and key protectors
Key protectors existed; protection status showed Off at one point; encryption was around 14.8%
14 July
Windows boot looked abnormal
Restarted after BitLocker changes
Windows eventually booted, but initial boot resolution looked stretched/pixelated
14 July
Fortnite/game instability
Investigated Windows/BIOS state following the BIOS changes
Game still froze/crashed, suggesting the problem wasn’t simply Fortnite
14 July
TPM configuration
Checked TPM/fTPM and PCR validation
TPM reported ready; PCR profile included 0, 2, 4
14–15 July
Secure Boot/BIOS configuration
Worked through ASUS BIOS settings including Windows UEFI mode, CSM, Secure Boot and fTPM
Eventually established a working UEFI configuration, but the wider system instability remained
17 Aug
PC suddenly restarting while sitting on desktop
PC was restarting without warning and returning to Windows lock screen
Established this wasn’t only happening during gaming/heavy load
17 Aug
Repeated BSOD/recovery environment
Windows Recovery showed Continue / Turn off PC / Quick Machine Recovery / Troubleshoot
Recovery options were investigated; Reset was avoided
17–18 Aug
Windows installation/recovery
Created a Windows 11 USB from Win11_25H2_English_x64_v2.iso on the SanDisk USB
USB successfully created and verified
18 Aug
Windows installer
Split the 7.1 GB install.wim into .swm files because FAT32 couldn’t hold it
install.swm ~3.9 GB and install2.swm ~3.1 GB successfully created
18 Aug
Boot USB
Verified EFI/BOOT/BOOTX64.EFI existed
USB was bootable
18 Aug
Windows Setup
Initially selected Windows installation rather than repair
Installation proceeded
18 Aug
Windows installation
Deleted the old Disk 0 Windows partitions when instructed, leaving Disk 0 unallocated
Windows began a clean installation
18 Aug
Installation reached ~75–80%
First major clean-install crash
BSOD: SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E); ntfs.sys
18 Aug
Recovery/installer loop
Windows Setup repeatedly returned to the “upgrade vs clean installation” prompt
Established the installer USB was being booted again rather than a completed Windows installation
18 Aug
RAM investigation
Confirmed original crashes occurred with 2 × 4 GB, then tested 16 + 4 GB, then 16 GB alone
Crashes persisted; 16 GB alone was running at 2133 MHz
18 Aug
RAM slot
Moved 16 GB Corsair Vengeance from B1 → A1
BIOS detected 16,384 MB DDR4 at 2133 MHz normally
18 Aug
Second clean installation
Started Windows installation with 16 GB alone
Installation reached ~77%
18 Aug
Second major BSOD
Installation crashed
PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50)
18 Aug
SSD/filesystem investigation
Checked Samsung 860 EVO with filesystem scan
Windows reported no filesystem problems and 0 KB in bad sectors
18 Aug
SSD SMART
Checked SMART failure prediction
FALSE for the drives checked
18 Aug
SSD/SATA
Disconnected/reconnected Samsung 860 EVO SATA connection
SSD was still correctly detected
18 Aug
BIOS configuration
Established current baseline
CSM Disabled, Windows UEFI Mode, AHCI, fTPM Enabled, Erase fTPM NV Disabled, PBO Auto
18 Aug
BIOS
Confirmed BIOS version
6254, which is current for the ASUS Prime A320M-K
18 Aug
GPU
Confirmed Zotac GTX 1660 and checked physical power
6-pin PCIe power securely connected
18 Aug
GPU/PCIe
Checked Above 4G, Resizable BAR and SR-IOV
Above 4G Enabled, SR-IOV Disabled, Resizable BAR initially Auto
18 Aug
Resizable BAR test
Temporarily changed Resizable BAR Auto → Disabled
No improvement
18 Aug
Third clean installation
Tested Windows installation with Resizable BAR disabled
Crashed much earlier, around 30%
18 Aug
Third major BSOD
Same installation test
Again SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x7E) / ntfs.sys
18 Aug
Resizable BAR
Restored setting
Auto
18 Aug
CPU/BIOS
Checked Ryzen 5 3600 configuration
3.6 GHz, ~1.37 V live reading, PBO Auto
18 Aug
PSU
Identified PSU
Corsair CV450, 450 W; wattage isn’t obviously inadequate for Ryzen 5 3600 + GTX 1660
18 Aug
BIOS stability
Established PC can remain in BIOS for a long period without crashing
Am trying to make a build as cheap as i can make it while still being able to keep some good performance, my limit is 800$ but am still trying to make it cheaper
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179)
CPU COOLER: Stock cooler that comes with the cpu
GPU: Asrock Steel Legend OC Arc B580 12GB ($309.99)
RAM: Silicon Power SP016GBLFU320B22 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL22 Memory ($98.79)
STORAGE: I already have one (512 GB)
MOTHERBOARD: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99)
PSU: ASRock PRO Series PRO-650B 650 W Power Supply ($44.99)
CASE: Okinos AQUA UNO MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.99)
if anyone has a way to make this build cheaper that would be perfect
i’m wanting to connect a second monitor to my work computer but i’m unsure what cables i need/where to plug anything in. i thought i could just get a vga splitter but google reckons that would just duplicate the screen, not allow it to act as a seperate screen?
EDIT: thank you for quick responses! ordering a vga to dp adapter now 👍 (already have a vga cable)
Today morning I was drinking tea while laptop was closed just next to me and I accidentally spilled tea ok the trackpad...
I cleaned it asap left it for an hour and then I had to attend a meeting but it did make that normal clicking sound on the trackpad... Very unusual...
So I decided to open it, removed the battery, took a look on the trackpad (the blue board) but found nothing...
So I decided to leave it open for a while, cleaned it again, turned it on... The clicks don't work...
And now Im unable to clip back the back near the trackpad
Can someone please help? I bought this laptop used (imported) it's not cheap for me to fix it or replace it
More info: HP EliteBook 645 G9 16GB / 256GB
Dual booting Windows 11 PRO and Fedora 44 both have the same issue so it's definitely not a software issue
My PC (DELL XPS) is refusing to connect to my monitor. I took it in to a repair shop to try and fix this, and I saw it working on the guys' desk after (today). He even got it updated for me. However, I take it home and now it will not connect.
What I do know:
The monitor and the cable work with my WII U using an HDMI -> VGA adapter.
The cable works with my projector and the WII U
I marked the end I inserted into the WII U w electric tape on the cable.
I installed the cable the same way as with the WII U and no signal PC -> Monitor.
The PC is turning on, fans going, RGB on, etc.
It is plugged into the VGA port on the computer.
Power cycling did not do anything at all.
My monitor was on, displaying the "test"/no signal message.
I don't know what is wrong. But I feel like I'm loosing my marbles.
Do people who have Linux input their debit card information into their computers online?
Is the reason why Windows is the only operating system because people buying in to windows made it so microsoft could pay more coders to fight against hackers?
In the history of Operating system competition, did microsoft employ hackers to hack other operating systems and make it so people were wary of getting a non-windows operating system?
Hi I need help. I went to log in to my computer and this error popped up. I tried using Google to trouble shoot but I got no where. Could anybody give me good instructions to log into my computer and fix it? The crossed out information is just my name.
As I said this is my brother Mason's laptop, he died in July of 2019, if you want proof text me I'll send you his obituary.
I found it under his bed in his room of our childhood home while looking for his DVD player.
I'm curious what's on it, and i'm just awful with technology I don't even know where to start.
The hint says work, he worked at Papa John's till a few days before he died
It seems to be always happening whenever i turn on my laptop, how do i fix this
My HP EliteBook 840 G6 screen suddenly started glitching yesterday, and I’m trying to figure out what could have caused it before I pay for a screen replacement.
Earlier that day, I installed a Windows Security update. The update finished and asked me to restart the laptop. Less than an hour w/o restarting, the screen suddenly started glitching. I shut the laptop down and turned it back on, but the problem was still there.
I haven’t dropped the laptop or physically mishandled it, so the timing with the Windows update has me wondering if this could be software/driver related rather than a failed screen.
Can a laptop screen genuinely develop a hardware fault suddenly like this, even without any physical damage?
For an HP EliteBook 840 G6, what would be the most likely causes of this kind of screen glitch? Could a Windows update or graphics driver cause a problem that looks like a hardware failure?
I’d appreciate any suggestions for tests I can do to determine whether it’s the LCD, display cable, graphics driver/GPU, or something else before replacing the screen.
I’ve attached pictures of the glitch for reference.