My laptop display was flickering at certain angles, so I suspected the display cable. I opened the laptop, disconnected the battery and display cable from the motherboard, then reconnected them. After that, the laptop stopped powering on completely.
I replaced the display cable anyway and reconnected everything, but there’s still no power no fan spin and no charging indicator when the charger is plugged in.
Hi all, I have an NVMe SSD that's bricked/showing 1023MB [1.1GB] capacity — needs an MPTool database that matches my exact flash ID.
Controller: SM2262 (bufferless), FW 0235
Flash: Intel 64L(B16A) TLC 256Gb/CE, 256Gb/die — 16 banks
FlashID bytes: 0x89, 0xA4, 0x08, 0x32, 0xA1, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00
Full smi_nvme_flash_id output:
Code
I've tried the SM2262 MPTool B17 build (SM2262A1_MPTool_SVN132_B17_R1208) — it detects the drive on the main screen, but Auto-detect on the Parameters tab throws a database mismatch error, and Start stays greyed out since it can't find a matching flash entry.
I noticed the SM2263XT MPTool has a B16A-specific database (R0320A_B16) that lists this exact FlashID, but that tool doesn't detect my drive at all (different controller).
Does anyone have an SM2262 or SM2262EN MPTool build with a B16A flash database, or know if it's safe to port the B16A entry from the SM2263XT database into the SM2262 tool's config? Any help finding the right package appreciated.
I know that this can mean there is swelling battery vs debris stuck under the track pad.
Does it mean anything specifically that the trackpad tapping still works, but I cannot physically click?
So 2 years ago I accidentally spilt pepsi onto my laptop. It still works perfectly except for the screen being really dim(can still see if bright light or if I flash my phone torch) and the keys a bit stiff. It works when I have it plugged into a monitor so the issue is with the actually laptop screen itself, is it a backlight issue? I bought a new pc 8/9 months ago so I'm not too worried but also I would like to have it repaired for travel purposes. Any idea of the cost of repairing or if it would be cheaper to repair myself? Laptop is a Lenovo IdeaPad 3 15ITL6
I was already having a rough night, and this just sent me into a panic...
I immediately turned it off, flipped it upside down to a T, and wiped it down as much as I could.
I don't have the tools to open the back and get to the battery. When it dries, should I take it somewhere to get cleaned out? I am worried about the milk and sugar residue.
Trying not to panic, but I am not sure of the next steps. I am usually more careful!
I wasn't sure what flair to use, I have no idea if it's hardware, software, etc. My apologies if I got it wrong.
I have an ASUS ROG Strix G732LXS (i9, RTX 2080 Super, 64GB RAM) that I use for Photoshop/Illustrator, not gaming. But, I did buy it secondhand from a gamer. It worked wonderfully for around 8 months, then... The problem. The screen goes pixelated/glitchy & freezes after 15-30 minutes of use. I took it to a guy to fix it. He claimed he checked everything out, added thermal paste, fixed stuff, said it "worked fine" for 2 days that he tested it.
Well, surprise surprise, it does not. I'm still having the same issue-works for a few minutes, then glitches out like the screen is broken.
Also the duct tape is new. I've had this for over a year, it came with a small crack in the bottom. The crack grew, so I taped it last week. The repair guy never mentioned it, or that it could be part of the issue... So, hm.
I've had the screen issue since May. It glitches, I force it to power off, and in a short period of time I can reboot it, and it repeats again.
I added as many photos of my specs as humanly possible, because I'm out of my depth here & really really need to figure this out. This is, surprisingly, my work computer(graphic/web design)... I'm living in blissful ignorance at the possibility that my graphics card may be failing.
Things done so far;
· Replaced drivers (by repair guy, so dubious)
· Set refresh rate from 300Hz to 60Hz
· Disabled hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling
· Set power mode to Balanced/Best Efficiency
· Ran GPU-Z and Speccy for diagnostics
· Made Photoshop/Other Adobe software play as nicely as possible with my graphics card.
Maybe important info;
· Battery report: Design Capacity 66,000 mWh / Full Charge 46,717 mWh = 71% health (344 cycles)
· Charger: 280W (20V 14A) charger (ADP-280BBB)
· Charger barrel plug gets VERY hot when plugged in
· The repair guy claims he replaced thermal paste but also broke an RGB light that I have to get fixed...So... Yeah.
· The seller said that there was some damage on the casing around the charging port, but claimed it was just superficial. Now, I'm not too sure.
· Glitches immediately when switching to Performance/Turbo mode or when plugging in at low battery (which is all the time because a 100% battery dies in like... 25ish minutes when just scrolling the Internet-no heavy use.
Specs:
· Model: ASUS ROG Strix G732LXS_G732LXS
· GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Super (8GB)
· Battery: C41N1906 (66Wh, 15.4V)
Thanks in advance for any advice! 🙏
Help! Why does my laptop screen freezes and it makes that glitching sound similar to that spiderman polyester edit. It was so loud that I thought I was being hacked or something and I just pressed the power button to restart it. What seems to be the problem and how can I fix it?
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I have an hp desktop that I rarely use. It’s about 6 years old. BIOS is giving me a CPU fan error. Is it worth it to hunt down a fan and replace it?
Hey everyone, I’m trying to fix my HP EliteBook 840 G3 (Windows 10) and it’s gotten so messed up that almost nothing works anymore. I’m hoping someone can help me repair it for free or recommend what to do next.
Here’s everything going wrong:
I can’t change boot order, update BIOS, or access advanced recovery.
HP says I need an SMC.bin unlock file.
Thanks for any help — I’m stuck.
--------- What Copilot AI said: -----------
Your BIOS version: N75 Ver. 01.24 (2018)
Your UUID: 7C25370A‑EFF9‑11E6‑855B‑0607B9008048
This tells me:
This is the #1 root cause of your entire mess.
You need an SMC.bin unlock file from HP.
Based on your symptoms:
This means:
Your Windows installation is severely corrupted, likely from:
This is not normal wear — it’s deep OS corruption.
Your EliteBook 840 G3 is from 2016–2017.
Common failures at this age:
Your symptoms match:
This strongly suggests SSD degradation or motherboard aging.
You reported:
This is caused by:
EliteBooks are notorious for this.
You’ve mentioned:
This means:
Your Windows registry is damaged, and several core services are failing:
This is why nothing behaves normally.
Symptoms:
This suggests:
This is extremely common when BIOS is locked and Windows updates fail.
Hi everyone, I need to replace the keyboard on my HP 15s-fy5xxx laptop. It is an English QWERTY, backlit silver keyboard with a numpad.
I found a Deal4GO L63579-001 Backlit Silver replacement that claims compatibility with HP 15s-FY, but I want to make sure it is actually compatible before ordering. I have also found several other keyboards for 15s-FQ, 15s-DY, 15-EG, etc., but I'm unsure whether those are interchangeable.
Could you recommend a reliable replacement model?
Can anyone help me finally find a fix or tell me if it’s to do with my laptop internally? I press the brightness key and it goes to the first level of brightness… I go any higher and it immediately restores to 0 and does not go any higher. The screen is also slightly jittery. We have tried absolutely every resolve we could find literally everywhere. Nothing has fixed it. It all started when I opened my laptop one day and it was On a screen where I had to enter a bitlocker key to gain access to my laptop again… I done this and ever since the brightness just won’t work. Video attached. Thank you.
I got a secondhand Lenovo Yoga 500-14IBD with Windows installed. I really like the 360° hinges, so I wanted to reuse it with Linux.
I got Ubuntu 26.04 and have been testing it in LiveCD mode before wiping the Windows installation.
Windows:
I can't log in because it still has the previous owner's account. The drive will be erased before reuse.
Screen brightness jumps irregularly between the current maximum and what appears to be an even brighter level.
The laptop won't boot without the charger because the battery is empty.
The battery does not charge in Windows.
Ubuntu 26.04 Live:
The brightness issue disappears.
When the battery is connected, the charger repeatedly disconnects/reconnects every few seconds.
With the battery disconnected + charger connected, the laptop runs normally.
With the battery connected + charger disconnected, the laptop also runs normally.
The battery hasn't had much opportunity to charge, so I don't know how well it holds a charge.
The battery LED slowly blinks in a repeating pattern of approximately 0.5s off / 1s on.
I also see some AE_NOT_FOUND ACPI/PCIe messages during boot, but Ubuntu continues booting normally.
I've tested two Lenovo chargers, including the original one, with the same result.
The interesting part is that the laptop works normally from AC alone and battery alone, but the battery refuses to charge when AC and the battery are connected. This happens in both Windows and Ubuntu.
I also inspected the motherboard for obvious physical damage. I don't see any visibly burned, cracked, corroded, or otherwise obviously damaged components/connectors. I have some hobby-level experience identifying failed/burned components, although I haven't yet done electrical measurements on the charging circuit.
I'm comfortable opening the laptop, doing hardware diagnostics and soldering SMD on the board.
I'm mainly trying to determine whether this is more likely to be the battery/BMS, charging circuitry on the motherboard, or something else.
I won't be buying replacement parts, so I'm specifically looking for either a workaround or a direct board-level repair.
I can provide further diagnostics or board/component images on request, as long as the laptop still boots.
update: carefully flexing the frame does not influence behavior another update: it charged to 14% overnight, nd ubuntu says 75% battery health
When I plugged the power cable, my Dell G3 started smoking...
With a quick looking at the motherboard, it seems one of the two capacitors handling the charging current has failed (the two in the photo share the same part number). That’s the extent of my knowledge—I don’t know where to find a replacement component.
Look like a 33uF for 25v or 35v...
so, around 3 days ago, while playing roblox my PC randomly shut off. LED lights in the CPU turned off, fans turned off, nothing.
Pressing the power button would boot the system back up, but then it only worked for 15-30 minutes or so, running the game “Wuthering Waves” before shutting off again. Tried to boot once more and only did light browsing, and after 10-15 minutes, it once again shut down.
No boot-loop, just a shut down.
So since then, I’ve tried using a back-up PSU to see if the PSU was the issue, along with reseating my ram sticks, and SSD. I’ve replaced the PSU, and it seemed promising. It ran Wuthering Waves for an hour, so I shut off the PC again to plug in my 2nd SSD drive that I removed upon using the new PSU, and some case fans that were also unplugged, I plugged them back into the PSU.
After around an hour though upon booting up once more and being on a discord call with friends, it shut off on its own once more. What’s weirder is that when I try reopening it this time, the LED’s the fans only spin for around 2-3 seconds before shutting off once more. Not like with the other PSU in which it’d still let me run the system for 10-15 minutes.
I’ve since removed the 2nd SSD, the case fans, and after around 5-10 minutes, it once again shut down. Trying to boot it back up would only turn it on for 2-3s, not even booting into windows before turning off again.
I’m genuinely lost. What could be the problem? i’m not really in the financial situation right now to get this into a local repair shop either, i’m just hoping for a savior here atp 💔
I gave up on one a couple years ago, but I would like to try to get it working again because I spent over two grand on it and at the time it was a really good machine, but I only really used it for a year before I started having problems with it. One time it happened and eventually after being left alone to restart itself all day it just came good and worked again for a while, but then it went bad again as has never worked since. I just need advice to get it to at least boot to BIOS. I can take it from there. I'm okay with computers when they're working and can do basic repairs/upgrades/builds, but I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to like testing the components to find out what's broken etc.
Booted it up today and these keys weren't working, the screenshot is from a keyboard testing website. First thing I did was:
Boot up into the BIOS hardware testing mode, and these keys still didn't work there in the keyboard test so I'm sure this is a hardware issue.
The keys seem to sometimes register when I apply pressure from the bottom of the laptop, while lifting it up. So maybe it's a contact issue?
What's wrong and how bad is the damage? Do I need to replace the entire keyboard or just clean the contacts?
Hi Bought two used sticks of ddr5 sodimm ram One of the sticks seems faulty as the laptop does not even start when its installed... Attached some photos, to me it looks like some liquid damage maybe. Whats your opinion? Is it even possible to fix this?