i bought a 04 525d as a daily, i was never the type to search for strange noises as didn’t give me any issues, i change my oil at 7-8k km with quality Liqui Moly 5-40 as the car is older and has some mileage however
i came across this strange noise, it comes from where i pointed my finger in the video
i’m concerned if it’s the timing chain
if i rev the engine any sound disappears
any recommendations are welcome!
Just started getting into some more issues on my car after getting a copy of ISTA and found out the cause of my airbag light is part of the seat occupancy detection system likely the mat. Has anyone done anything to fix anything in his area or know of any good fixes?
I've looked into bypass systems but not only am I not crazy about bypassing something in the airbag system but I do not want a constant seatbelt chime when someone is not there.
Has anyone replaced the mat or bypassed this?
So, long story short I have bought a ZF6HP26 gearbox from a BMW Breaker for cheap, and I'm intending on rebuilding it. This gearbox is going into an E60 535D that is also mapped, which is quite possibly the worst case scenario for this gearbox as the torque causes major stress on these gearboxes.
I want to rebuild this gearbox, whilst keeping it cost effective, so that when I put this gearbox in I am essentially putting a 0 mileage gearbox into this car and from then on I can maintain it the way they are supposed to be maintained.
Currently the gearbox thats in my car has torque converter slip, and primarily slips in 4/5/6th gear which is on the E clutch, basically that clutch, bushing and torque converter is likely toast, my reverse gear also takes about 2 seconds to engage, things like engine braking has noticeable throttle blips from the torque converter, etc. So I'm not bothering with rebuilding that gearbox as I believe it's long gone + I do need the car to be driving so swapping a built one in is more logical.
This is where I want advice; to buy all the parts, genuine ZF, every last one for a full rebuild + better parts as I will be using a sonnax zip kit aswell, is about £1250, not including the price of the torque converter refurbishment. This includes: Refurbished Valve Body w/ Solenoids: £275, Bushing Kit w/ Pump Bushing: £160, Sonnax Zip Kit: £185, Clutch Packs: £175, Full Rebuild Kit (Rubber Seal Things): £180, 10L Oil & Pan: £270.
Now I'm not a gearbox expert, but from what I can see here's the condition of my own gearbox;
Clutch Pack E which is the main problematic part of these gearboxes, basically no wear, there is slight burning around the outside of the very first clutch, and 1 or 2 minor burn marks on the first steel plate. The rest of the pack is like brand new, nice orange colour, plenty of material, no burning on any steel plates. The actual drum for the E clutch is also burn mark free, which this drum can often have blue burn marks on it, so the E clutch & drum looks in good nick and hopefully no bushing failure.
Clutch Pack A, minor scorring on the steel plates, besides that the clutches are brand new. The thin metal plate at the end of the clutch pack is warped but I believe every pack has this characteristic, probably normal but if anyone knows better let me know.
Clutch Pack B, first steel plate had black residue from clutch on it, wiped off and no major burning. Slight blue tint in the cog of 1 steel plate, clutches look fine, plenty of material.
Clutch Pack C, very obvious burning on each steel plate, clutches look fine, plenty of material.
Clutch Pack D, basically brand new, nothing wrong with the steel plates or clutches.
In terms of drums and how they all fit together, they seem like they have no obvious play in the shafts. It looks like this gearbox was taken out of a 520d which had a very easy life and probably no more than 100-120k miles, but the breaker has no clue what car this came out of as it was a clearance offer when I picked it up.
I've attached photos, but I would like advice, if there's anything that I should just remove off the rebuild parts, then that can save me money. Personally I don't believe I need any clutch packs and might just replace that first E clutch for £8 instead of the full £175 if I don't need them.
I want to replace the bushings, because they do cause all the E clutch problems, but if I very obviously don't have them problems right now, should I even do it? I don't know the difficulty of replacing bushings but I do know theyre integral to oil pressure and not something you want to mess up.
Sonnax Zip Kit is basically a must, don't think theres any reason not to do it tbh.
I think putting a refurbed valve body is the smart decision, kinda like torque converter you just sort of do it.
The rebuild kit which is all them big rubber rings, is that necessary? Never really heard of them giving problem and truthfully I don't even know where any of them go.
Thank you for anyone reading this far, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully the photos I have provided serve useful, I'm unsure how to group them in order tho unfortunately, so just cross reference the images with my description to figure out which pack it is. C and E clutch are only ones somewhat notable anyways.
hi guys.
525d 2007 M57
I’m genuinely clueless at this point.
Gearbox Heat exchanger replaced. (Febi oem matching)
Thermostat replaced (Mahle)
EGR thermostat replaced (Mahle)
Car still only gets up to 84 degrees maximum and slowing down it takes it down to 81-82.
I need help!!!!
2009 bmw 535i e60
I bought a pair of aftermarket tailights and the left one seems to work perfectly but the right one shuts off at night after 5 mins of driving, the turning and brake light will still work but the light that is supposed to stay lit will not.
After inspecting the back of the taillight I noticed that the little white box (second photo) gets extremely hot so will this need to be replaced or is it a wiring problem? Thanks so much for your time
What else could I add without making it a gypsy car? (Only oem/oem+ parts)
I have these sort of white scratches on my hood. I tried with basic polish, but they're still there. They're not noticeable to the touch, and the hood is completely smooth. Is there a product I could use with my polisher?
Btw its a bit dirty and there is some traces lf my polish product.
Hey ppl! I’m about to order a custom set of wheels for my 2005 E60 530d RWD. I’m a bit confused about wheel width and offset and what would be the best fitment and look for this car. I also think my car might be slightly lowered — would that affect fitment much? Looking forward to your advice!🫂
Much more complicated than ppl make it seem… sheesh 16 hours in and another 6 left
Hello everyone, I’m replacing the valve cover gasket on my N53B25, but when I put the valve cover back in place, it looks like this both before and after tightening the bolts (see photos). I can’t get it to sit properly. Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could be causing it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My rear ones have been ripped apart by those springs, and the driver's mat keeps sliding on top of the pedal.
This retrofit has been a long time coming for me but it was hard to find them in the correct spec to match my factory mirrors, IE power folding, dimming and lemans blue caps. The LED puddle welcome lights were a welcome bonus too🙏🏻
Does anyone know where this cable should be connected? I can’t find any info online.
Hello, My phone seems to listen to me and recommend this group to me. I just bought a 2008 BMW 550i with M-Series wheels, Patel shifters and a V8. Had a blow head gasket that is now fixed, New belts, Oil and oil filter and just fixed the radio with a fiber looper. Car is extremely clean and I only paid $800 for it with a clean title. Im always finding BMW in my area in this price range, Why is the market so low for these vehicles. I would have to assume people just don't know how to fix them? Oh well here are some pics, Let me know if I got a steal or not. OH! I dont have interior pictures atm but its all black leather with 0 cracking or fading at all, and the tires were just put on Continentals $500 a pop alone.
During the weekdays I drive it on really short distances but on the weekends I drive around 200kms. The car starts fine
