r/epoxy

This is my first time ever time pouring epoxy. Poured three cracks just fine, went to pour another and this jello consistency epoxy flopped out. I suspect I may not have “scrapped the sides and bottom” while stirring properly, or there wasn’t the correct mix ratio, but I’m just asking for a second opinion.

For reference, this was alumilite casting resin (black by default, no dye added)

Bought a recently renovated house, the garage looks like they did flake epoxy, but not very well. It's constantly leaching this oily orange substance...does anyone know what this is? We had it powerwashed and it still comes up. It's very chemical/petroleum smelling and very slippery.

Hi All,

Would love some advice please. Doing my first epoxy floor. Metallic effect. The epoxy bit was easy. Looks brilliant. Great finish. My issue is with the poly topcoat. Used a 2 part polyurethane, same manufacturer as the epoxy. Mixed with an anti-slip additive as per instructions.

When I was rolling it out it was leaving some roller marks. Presumably I was rolling it on too thick? Now it's dried there is a combo of roller marks and what feels like the anti-slip additive? Problem is it won't sand back. It's been a week, it feels solid. I tried to sand after a few days and it gummed up the sander. Not doing that anymore but it just won't sand down. Using 80G with a drywall sander.

Think I rolled the poly too thick having done a timber floor before. The poly looked exactly the same when rolling, but then presumably with the timber it absorbed a bit and so smoothed out really nicely and buffed easily after.

Any suggestions? Do I just need to wait even longer until it cures further then try again?

Thanks in advance

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to working with epoxy and aiming to use it for my art projects. However i'm having some trouble pouring a smooth layer of epoxy and hope there are some expert here that can point out my flaws. This is the material i'm working with:

- blocks of wood (spruce wood, 20 x 20 cm, 8 x 8 inch) 18mm thick / 0,5 inch thick
- the surface on top is leveled with a sanding machine
- 2 layers of white acrylic paint on top to seal the surface
- I apply my art on the surface with waterslide decals, a very thin film.
- I protect the decals with 2 layers of acrylic spray
- After that i pour the epoxy.

This is the process:

- the paint being dryed long enough (at least 48h) before applying the decal
- the decal is dryed at least 24h before applying the acrylic spray on it
- the spray is dryed at least 48h before pouring the epoxy
- i'm using 'premium art' epoxy from the brand 'ultraEpoxy'. I mix a 100:60 ratio with a precise scale. I'm using a mixing cup and mix the epoxy for several minutes.
- I pour the epoxy gently on the surface and smear it out with an expoy brush so it reaches all the edges.
- I use a torch (small one) to remove bubbles, i do this right after the pour (tile by tile).
- After i do this the surface is perfectly smooth and i let this to cure.
- The room is ventitaled with an open window, the pouring tables are level, the temperature is between 20 and 25 degrees Celcius (68 F to 77 F)

After 24h i check on the pour and i see all these dents in the surface. Also i see some subtle tearing in the epoxy itself.

What am i doing wrong and how can i fix these mistakes on the current pours?

Many thanks in advance!

I acquired this wood slab for free and decided to take on my introductory attempt at building furniture. I believe it is some sort of cedar, and it was already shaped like this with a beautiful live edge when I got it. I have lots of progress pictures if anyone is interested, but this is what I came up with so far.

The inlays were all done with a router by hand, no CNC machine (would've made life a lot easier though). The hardwood inlay features different wood species, some of which I'm also not even positive on their identification. But it includes mahogany, oak, blood wood, and walnut to name a few. The ammonite fossil idea came to me mid-way through and I think they really tied the center piece together. After 2 coats of poured epoxy I'm really happy with how the top came out given I had no prior experience doing inlays.

The legs are oak with blood wood inlays, and the apron is cedar lined with oak on the inside for strength where the hinges on the lift top mechanism mount. I'm actually open to opinions on what to do with the cedar apron, as I feel like it stands out too much and doesn't really fit the overall look of the table. Any input is greatly appreciated-- let me know what you think!

I have this propeller that wing has been broken off. Unfortunately it is impossible to buy replacement and I really like the machine so want to fix it.

It's for a milk frother so the max temperature should be below 80°C or 176°F and plus it also needs to withstand fast rotation too.

Can you recommend any epoxy product for this ? Of course it will spend good time submerged in milk so it should be food safe too. I'm newbie here and from what I heard epoxy is basically food safe when cured? but not sure so seeking advice ...

This issue started appearing a day after the contractor did garage floor epoxy. They’re claiming it was a “floor imperfection” but I believe this is a workmanship defect requiring proper repair, including preparation, patching, and reapplication of the epoxy system. What are your thoughts ?

Hello all, I would consider myself new to anything related to Epoxy flooring. I got my garage floor done last summer by a reputable epoxy flooring company.

They did a wonderful job overall. My original concrete underneath had slight cracking but nothing major. To my understanding they cure/fill before applying the finish.

Is it normal to already have cracking towards the center of my garage already? It’s only been since last summer 2025’

Greatly appreciate the opinions. Thanks!

Pulled this from a residential removal — the live edge (the natural bark-line edge, uncut) runs the full length and that's really the whole story before resin even comes into it. Most live edge pieces people see in resin work are dining-table scale; this is smaller but the same principle applies — the tree's actual outline becomes the design instead of something you cut away to get a straight board.

What's interesting from a pour perspective: the bark-line edge is exactly where moisture tends to sit differently to the rest of the slab. I checked MC at the centre, the edge near the bark line, and about halfway between — three separate readings, not just one centre spot. Came in at 9% across all three this time, but I've had pieces where the zone right under the bark read 2-3% higher than centre because that area dries slower.

If you're keeping the live edge intact (rather than squaring it off) for a resin pour, that's the zone worth double-checking before you commit — a single centre reading can look fine while the bark-line zone is still releasing moisture.

Hi! Epoxy floor in my garage got these stains. The yellow one from fertilizer and the brown one from watering the plants during winter. Tried simple green spray and it didn’t work. Any ideas to clear this stain? Tq