r/epoxy

Hello! We recently had epoxy flooring installed some common areas in our condo garage, after the committee for aesthetics chose general direction - light with some darker brown to reference the terracotta throughout the building, somebody ended up changing the general idea of what we agreed on. I’m curious what your thoughts are on the new flooring vs the sample we were leaning towards. Personally I think it’s way too brown and looks kind of tired / old already, but want to see what y’all think! First image is the deck of samples, and the 2nd is the actual install.

Second, is this something that can be gone over again with a new flake color to try and remedy the situation?

Should I make this a side hustle or throw in the towel?

I'm hoping someone has dealt with this before and can offer advice.

The right side of my garage wall borders another unit, and it has a ~3-in wide solid foam insulation running along the entire length.

An epoxy vendor did an assessment and expressed concerns over doing a polyaspartic flooring over that section. One suggestion is to epoxy only up to the concrete slab edge and leave foam perimeter alone, but this will be an eyesore.

I'd be happy to hear suggestions from people who have dealt with this before.

Attached photos showing the perimeter insulation

We hired a contractor to epoxy-flake our garage floor, which was built in 1992. They originally wanted to "just" do an acid wash, but we asked them to instead do diamond grinding due to the age/condition of the floor. They said no problem.

Today was prep day, scheduled for one day out of three total. The contractor shows up and uses a tiny angle grinder on entire the floor for 8 hours straight. Then acid washes the floor three times. The results (to my untrained eye) look horrible. The angle grinding obviously is uneven, gouges everywhere. But maybe worse, the floors are wet and will definitely still be wet and holding moisture by tomorrow morning. Contractor plans to start putting down epoxy first thing tomorrow. Photos just don't look like what I expected a fully prepped space to be.

Album here

Is this worth stopping the work over and finding a different contractor? Or is this a "trust the process" type of thing? Our family is really handy but we decided to splurge on a professional to do this work since we have a newborn. Was supposed to be a luxury/break. Really kicking ourselves now 😞

hi! i drew a design on my clear phone case (hard plastic back) using a Sakura Gelly Roll classic white pen (gel pen not acrylic :/). i googled and it said it would get scratched off if i didn’t seal it, but google is recommending me contradicting answers (use mod podge, don’t use it, use a krylon spray, etc) so does anyone have any experience/tips?

my design also has small dots and lines very close together so i wanted to use a spray but was scared it would run/drip or become cloudy. thanks!

I have a basic plywood workbench that a previous owner used for rough woodworking with tablesaws, routers, etc.

i’ve intend to repurpose the entire workshop and for hobbies such as small electronics repair, soldering, laser cutting/etching and 3d printing, and occasionally light work with uhammers, drills, screwdrivers, etc.

I fully sanded the workbench with multiple grit levels, painted it with grey using water
-based acrylic )multiple coat and adequate cure time.

After all that when I put heavy weight on it or tools, I was actually denting the playwood and chipping the paint.
I just tried putting two layers of desktop epoxy with a 16 hour break plus light sanding between layers. The second layer of epoxy is currently drying.

Based on experience, will this “reasonable coat” of epoxy, after curing for seven day, be able to protect the workbench from nicks, dents, and scratches?
Nick’s and dents and scratches.

Also, if I have a soldering iron or a heat gun will either one of them potentially melt the epoxy if I’m not careful?

My very first coaster set and blooms are complete. I managed to get a sneaky pic outside in the sunshine whilst my mum is still in bed 😁 im so happy I managed to do this in time for my mum birthday and in plenty of time to (next month)

I’m using epoxy to help fill void spaces in spalted maple table I’m making. One of the voids is a a wood knot that runs all the way through the 3” slab. The knot is close to 1” in diameter.

I’m using west system 205 fast hardener and a touch of black pigment. I’ve been experimenting on a scrap piece by drilling 3/4” hole and plugging with epoxy, but keep having the plug split. The split seems to run the entire depth of the plug.

Based on some research it seems like maybe I’m pouring too thick and need to do layered pours of 1/4-1/2” deep? I tried that on most recent test and still got a split. I only waited about 45 minutes before pouring second layer, so I’m thinking the epoxy wasn’t in gel phase yet.

I’m hoping for some guidance from this community, especially if someone has experience with west system 205 in particular. I’m worried if I get a split on my actual pour it will be extremely difficult to remove the epoxy from the knot, and the split will be highly visible. I’ll thinking another test, this time I’m thinking layering 1/2” deep with 3-4 hours curing between layers?

I’ve read online that letting the first layer fully cure (over night) will need to sand first layer before adding a second? Anyone tried layering after full cure without sanding? It will be hard to sand the layer inside the wood knot.

Thanks in advance, I’ve included some images to show the know I’m filling and my failed attempts.

I had a friend do this dope artwork with a hot iron and want to save it from getting messed up and/or wearing away. I originally thought to get epoxy and do it side by side, letting it cure completely between sides but I came to the issues of the edges/sides not being uniform. At least in my mind that’s how I’ve imagined it. I don’t want to mess this up so I’m coming to you guys with it. They are saya’s for my work Knives. Made from poplar I believe. A long, long time ago I coated the larger gyuto saya in Sno-Seal. Having melted it prior to applying. Then I sat in the oven at 180 degrees for 3-4 minutes to let it absorb it. I’m hoping that doesn’t mess up what I’m trying to achieve here. The idea I have in my head is a durable clear coat that covers the entire outside of the saya. Like an old bar top. I want it to have a nice thick/durable clear coat so I can see the art but also wipe the saya down if it gets dirty and never have to worry about the art getting messed up or wearing away. Thanks in advance for your help.

This had me confused as YouTube videos show people applying epoxy with the toilet bowl but Google and AI suggests applying the epoxy resin before the toilet bowl. Thanks!

Mvb, metallic coat , clear coat, t200. Looks cool but a little messy from the white

I recently had a new epoxy/polyaspartic floor installed.

A section of the concrete was delaminating and had to be ground out before coating. Unfortunately, that area crossed an existing control joint, which appears to have been recreated by hand with a die grinder before the coating system was applied. I didn’t see them snap or tape a line from the intact portion of the original joint.

The finished floor looks good overall, but the repaired joint is noticeably irregular—it’s jagged, wanders from the original alignment, and is substantially narrower than the existing joint.
Unfortunately, it’s right in the main area of the garage, so it’s quite noticeable.

I spoke with the owner, who said:
“The joint is an easy fix. They run thinner blades on our angle grinders. I can bring a cut saw and it’ll take 5 minutes to score it straighter, making sure it is more uniform.”

I’m skeptical that simply re-cutting it will produce a good result. My assumption is that at least part of the section may need to be sanded/grinded down, the joint filled and re-cut, and then the affected area re-coated and blended.

For those with experience repairing coated floors: What would be the proper way to correct this so the joint looks consistent with the original? Am I overthinking this, or is a “5-minute fix” unlikely to produce a professional result?

For context, the job was approximately $6/sq. ft.
Thanks in advance for the advice.

I had these trees carved , the one on the left is half rotten and I would like to mosaic some of the rivulets made by the chain saw. The wood is wet and will be wet for months. I’m seeking advice on adhesive to use . Appreciate the help!

Hi! Just got this garage floor installed last week. Diamond grind then epoxy + flakes on day 1; polyaspartic on day 2. I think it came out great but there’s one spot where there’s this “hump” of extra-thick poly coating (photo #2). How would you fix this? Power sand, then wet sand, then polish? Maybe followed by a new, thin coat of poly? The installer said he thought he would need to take it all the way back down to the concrete to fix it, which might make it more noticeable, but do you think that would really be necessary?