So I went with the put a new layer over the floor option. Patched all seems with a flexible epoxy mortar. Gonna grind all the joints today to flatten them out and then put a quarter inch layer of boxy motor over the whole floor.
Wood garage floor with room underneath. What would you do here? Previous owner glued ice and water shield but still leaking into room underneath
What are you using to grind the corners and where do you get them, what are they called? Looking for something for my osculating tool.
I just got my garage floor done with flake. The top coat is pretty smooth and it looks great. But, there are a bunch of spots where it comes to a peak and its sharp. Ive already had the guy out once to correct it but there are still quite a bit. Am I being crazy or should I be able to walk across the whole floor barefoot or with socks and not worry about getting scratche/cut
Noble G-porn posters and viewers! I'm finally at the blessed day when I can manage to get my garage floor coated as a part of it's workshop transformation.
My dilemma - I've been calling around asking for a solid color floor - light gray to mimic paddock race garages (also just ideal...) and everyone is saying they do flake only for slip resistance. One shop that's been flexible says using a single color flake, sanding it after laying it, and adding a pigment to the top polyaspartic will get me the look I want.\
On to my questions -
Sample of the 75% sanded light gray:
Garage floor look I'm going for:
Look man, let me break this down straight. You think self-leveling concrete is some magic that’ll make any floor flat? Nah, that’s not how it works. This stuff is just a flowable cementitious topping, not a filler for big dips.
Think of it like this: if your base floor’s already wavy and uneven, pouring this on top is just gonna make a wavy, uneven layer on top of it. It follows gravity, sure—but gravity only works if the starting surface is close enough to flat to begin with.
That’s why we grind first. We knock down high spots, strip the weak top layer, and get it as true as possible. The self-leveler’s job isn’t to fix the big problems—it’s to smooth out the small stuff and give you a consistent, flat finish on a properly prepped base.
Skip the grind, and you’re just pouring money into a band-aid. It’ll still follow the original floor’s contours, and you’ll be right back where you started. This stuff only works when you do the prep work first.
I’m trying to figure out a way to safely do epoxy resin for my coasters at my apartment.
The problem is I cannot do this indoors. I have 2 cats, and not a lot of great places for good ventilation so it can’t be an option.
My idea is setting up a station on my shaded back porch. Getting a small greenhouse tent that can fit on a 5 or 6 foot fold out table to make sure rain, bugs or dust won’t get inside and still allow me to work on more than a few coasters at a time.
The main issue is going to be temperature and humidity control since it’s outside in summer. I have a dehumidifier, but don’t know if I need something smaller.
I’m getting kinda desperate, if anyone has any suggestions on controlling temperature and humidity inside a box or small green house tent outside I’d greatly appreciate it.
Also quick edit: I’m using Stone Coat Epoxy resin
Hey everyone!
I'm a little disappointed, I got my garage floor Epoxy coated about 10 months ago and used a very reputable professional installer. I was told that the floor would be extremely durable. However, I've noticed these tire marks on the floor and even after mopping and cleaning they are still there. Any idea why this is happening? Any way to remove these marks?
EDIT: Thanks everybody for the recommendations! I got the stains to come out! I dumped simple green on it without diluting it and let it sit and then used a stiff brush again. It worked! Last time I tried I diluted the solution and it did nothing. Really appreciate all the responses
My dad and I are attempting to resurface this piece with epoxy, but we want to avoid the hinge (channel looking thing) and the indents. We're using Glass cast 50.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I’m fairly handy, and I got roped into helping my dad with a project. He wants me to cover this table in epoxy AND he wants the cracks in between the planks filled. From what I’ve seen, I can use tape on the bottoms and side of the table and then the epoxy won’t bond to it? What type of tape will work specifically?
I know I’ll need a couple of pours to get the cracks filled in. Do I need to worry about overheating since my dad didn’t get deep pour epoxy?
Could I do these for customers, knowing we get many feet of snow. Is there any ways around to prevent slips of the tire and in general it’s being slippery.
Hi there,
I recently had what ended up being a piece of glass removed from my palm after hand surgery. (I had fallen while running-- had been training for a half-marathon. Don't recommend it... the falling that is.)
I'm not a crafter, but love the idea of having this "pearl" turn into something beautiful. Right now, I have it in a necklace made for storing ashes, but would love something a bit more... More?
Like I said, I'm not a crafter, but am reasonably handy, and I think I could do something decently technical if there's a great motivation for it, and this certainly is! I can provide exact dimensions if strictly needed, but it is close to 3mm x 4mm clear glass.
1st time ever doing an epoxy pour project, 1st time trying to dry flowers too. Used cedar for the wood and carnations.
Homemade mold rigged up from scrap wood I had laying around.
Not my proudest project. There are a lot of flaws and things I would change if I tried again. The best part about this project is that I learned something!
It’s for an absolute troll of an entry into a no-rules pinewood derby kind of race. It doesn’t need to be pretty, but in a perfect world it won’t crumble when it hits the grass at the bottom of the ramp. Problem is that it needs to be ready in a week. Shipping also takes time, so something available at a big box store would help.
Thanks!
Last 4 pics are recent but weren’t planned for showing the floor per se. Basically 1500 sq.ft. is our ground floor (hydronically heated slab on grade) with Leggari metallic epoxy and gloss top coat without grit additive. Has held up great in spite of a lot of finish work and not removing boots or shoes as I’ve gone in/out… plus LOTS of Seahawks watch parties this last year on our march to the SUPERBOWL.
Quick edit note - first 4 pics were from initial pour and seal; next 4 are anecdotal pics during the last few months. We’re traveling at the moment but wanted to share some pics after a lot of LIFE and how well the floors are wearing.
