r/fordescape

The end result: noticeable, but not obnoxious sound, deeper acceleration tone, less lawnmower/buzzy character, and still comfortable highway driving with 30-40mpgs combined. Dropped a YouTube link so you can check it out

I got new front brakes and rotors on my 2017 ford escape 7 weeks ago. Ever since them no matter what speed I am driving, how slow or how fast I come to a stop ( starting to break far away from the light), they have been this horrific squealing sound and it is especially annoying in drive thrus where you move a little bit at a time. If I step on the break really hard it doesn’t squeal at all. I don’t really understand. Any helpful advice is welcome on to what I should do. My car was taken to a shop that my family takes all their vehicles to for 30 + years in Eagan Mn! Please any advice on what I should do or what I should say if I need to call them back.

Anybody with 1st gen’s in here? Just purchased mine for $600 the other day. Just to have as a beater but it needs some repairs, might even do some small mods. Was curious if they were still alive.

I recently had more work done to it than it's probably worth when it runs great , did front suspension and a subframe now the rear shock mount has rusted out of it,at 138 thousand miles is it just time to get rid of it? I know they make some kind of bracket for this issue but I worry if the fiberglass will hold up in winters, has anyone done this repair does it hold?

Hi. 2017 ecoboost with the all too common coolant-leaking-into-cylinder-you-need-a-new-engine issue (wtf Ford). Only about 45k miles. Engine light was on when it was diagnosed, off since then. Decided we just need a new car because quotes on a repair or on new engine are too close to the value of this vehicle. So we have been driving it only short distances (no more than 5 miles at a time, usually less) until we can afford the purchase. I know we are gambling here but best we can do at present. Runs ok, engine light still off, but now it gurgles when stopped - I’m told this is likely coolant boiling. Checked the reservoir - there is now no coolant in it, but we worry opening up the system might trigger engine light again and we want to trade this in. Should we add coolant or leave it alone?

2012 Ford Escape xlt, recently got a check engine light. AutoZone code reader led me to change the purge valve solenoid.

Before changing the solenoid there were no noticeable issues with performance. After the change the engine idled slightly rough, when pressing the accelerator there would be no/little power initially but would then surge, and the engine would die usually when braking.

Assuming the new solenoid was bad I replaced it. Most problems were now fixed, but the engine now dies sporadically.

I've driven the car fifteen to twenty miles since to test it, and there are no noticeable similarities to suggest any one action causes it to die. Each time the car starts immediately. There has been no check engine light since initially replacing the solenoid. I've tried various searches, and nothing I've come up with fits the issue in having. Has anyone else had a similar problem or know a fix?

We have flushed the heater core and it was clean and checked everything else

We drive it up the street and went home and noticed the passenger side line is hot but the driver side is cool

just wondering if anybody else has had this issue

This is a weird hobby, bear with me. i run a moving company outside Dallas and i fix our box trucks and vans on the weekends. couple years ago i started

keeping a list of which used ones turned into money pits so i'd stop buying the same mistakes.

then i realized NHTSA already keeps that list. every owner complaint and recall going back decades, just sitting in a government database nobody reads. so i

pulled the whole thing. 16,825 model-years, 768k complaints, 2005 to 2025.

the part that got me: 28 specific engine/transmission families account for almost 40% of every complaint filed, while being only 7% of the vehicles. stuff like the Hyundai Theta II, the Ford 6F35 auto, the PowerShift, the GM 5.3 with the lifter problem, the Subaru CVTs.

The one that surprised me most: the Ford 6F35 transmission has 37,000+ complaints and never got a recall. the PowerShift everyone complains about online has 8,000 and got a class action. same failure rate per car, ford just hid the slow one better.

If you give me a year and model i'll tell you if it's on the list and what it actually fails from.

My 2017 Ford Escape has grill shutters (you can see in the front the shutters with the little motor on the sides). I live in a cold environment and I usually see cars with these that when you shut them off they close, did some research and some cars close the grill shutters in cold environments to keep the heat in the engine, now, the grill shutters on my escape do not close when I shut it off, took it to a shop to make sure they weren’t broken, and they weren’t, they were able to close, open and set different positions with an OBD Tool, but when they unplug it, it just goes back to fully open. Anyone know if there’s a way to set like a default position or to control them? Or are the grill shutters on Ford usually this way?

I have a 2019 Ford Escape SE, 106, 426 miles as of current. Ford dealer quoted me $8500 for a new transmission. Check engine light is on. I still owe about $8700 on current loan and making payments. The car does start but doesn't drive. Can I roll over negative equity into new loan? Will it be wiser to trade in or sell vehicle as is? Need answers.