r/gameboymicro

I’ve been gradually trying to polish some scratches out of my gameboy micro faceplate for the past couple days, using polywatch and very carefully using clean microfiber/100% cotton cloths.

The process has only left a million micro scratches/swirls, and a small smudge mark formed and quickly grew into this larger rectangle and I wish I never started polishing it in the first place.
Does anyone have an expertise/knowledge on how to fix this? I’m really upset about it because this faceplate really can’t be replaced. I’d appreciate any suggestions, especially as there is very little information available on the internet.

I would honestly rather take it somewhere or send it to someone who knows what they’re doing better, because from everything I’ve read, this should most definitely not be happening.

Hey guys. Im wondering if my loose hinge on the left side of my gb micro can or should be worked on? Ive been shiny hunting and love this thing man. Maybe it was like this when i bought a decade ago…

I was working on one of my Game Boy Micros when the backlight connector suddenly fell apart.

I looked around online for a replacement or a known solution, but I couldn't find anything that seemed to be a direct replacement. So I took some measurements of the original connector and went looking for one that matched.

I ended up ordering a Molex 5034800440 from DigiKey. It's a 4-position, 0.5 mm pitch, right-angle FFC/FPC connector, and the connector itself fit and worked perfectly.

The only problem I ran into was that the Micro's backlight ribbon cable is too thin for the new connector to grip properly. The cable would slide right back out even with the connector latched.

My solution was extremely simple: I cut a small piece of electrical tape, placed it over the end of the ribbon cable, and then inserted it into the connector. The extra thickness was enough for the connector to securely grip the cable.

It worked like a charm. The ribbon no longer falls out, and the backlight works normally.

There may be a more direct replacement out there that matches the original connector and doesn't require adding thickness to the ribbon cable. If anyone knows of one, I'd definitely be interested in it.

But for anyone else who has had their Game Boy Micro backlight connector fall apart and wants to try this method, this is the part I used:

Molex 5034800440
4-position, 0.5 mm pitch, right-angle FFC/FPC connector
DigiKey: Molex 5034800440 on DigiKey

Hopefully this helps someone else who runs into the same problem.

Hi, I have a Game Boy Micro with a minor issue: the screen looks a bit washed out (whitish). I tried swapping it for a brand-new, working screen and also for an original one from another Game Boy Micro I own, but the display still looks the same. Does anyone know why this is happening or how I could fix it?

How many people would be interested in resin buttons?

I’m going through the process of modeling the triggers a b and D-pad right now to sell as a set.

Might do the volume power and select in the future if there is interest.

I don’t know of anyone selling them right now one shop who used to make them has stepped away for now to take on other projects.

Just checking if I’m wasting my time fixing an issue that people don’t need fixed

(The D-pad is a first draft for dimensions not using others files building from scratch)

This Game Boy Micro came to me in pretty rough shape. The motherboard had what looked like coffee spilled inside of it at some point, and the corrosion had gotten bad enough that it actually ate through a via.

I started by thoroughly ultrasonic cleaning the motherboard, shell, buttons, and button membranes. After cleaning the board, I began inspecting it for corrosion and checking the affected circuits.

I used a known-working Game Boy Micro to run continuity checks and compare the board against a good reference. That allowed me to track down the broken connection rather than just blindly running jumpers.

I also used a fiberglass pen to carefully remove the solder mask around suspicious areas so I could inspect the vias underneath and make sure there wasn't any hidden damage.

I found one pad with four vias connecting together. Two of the vias had been damaged by corrosion, but the other two were still intact and providing the connection, so there was no need to add a jumper there.

I eventually found a via that had completely rotted away and was actually breaking the circuit. After tracing where that connection was supposed to go, I repaired it with a single wire jumper.

While I had everything apart, I also replaced all of the tactile switches for the volume and L/R buttons as preventative maintenance. These switches are prone to becoming unreliable on the Micro, and since I already had the board apart, I figured I might as well replace them. The switches are the same type used in the Nintendo DS Lite.

One other little repair tip: ultrasonic cleaning the board after installing the new tactile switches does a surprisingly good job of flushing flux out of the switches themselves.

After all of that, the Micro is now fully functional again.

I'm still working on the cosmetic side of the restoration, but considering what this thing looked like when I started, I'm pretty damn happy with the progress.

One thing I think is worth emphasizing with these repairs: multilayer boards require a lot of attention to the vias, especially on Game Boy Micros. Corrosion can get underneath the solder mask and damage connections that aren't immediately obvious from looking at the board. Don't assume a trace is intact just because it looks intact.

With Game Boy Micros becoming more expensive, I'd really like to see as many of these things kept alive as possible instead of being written off because the board looks too far gone.

Hopefully this inspires someone else to take a shot at repairing one rather than giving up on it. There are a lot of these old handhelds that are still perfectly salvageable with a little patience and some careful troubleshooting.