I have a ‘21 Club Car Tempo.
I want to unlock the higher speeds, but everyone I have contacted wants me to bring the cart to them.
I don’t have a trailer, and I really don’t want to drop the ridiculous amounts just to edit a file.
Anyone have a way around this nonsense? (I’ve looked at the programmers, but it seems you still need their code)
Thanks :-)
This is the description per the Facebook post
“Available for purchase. 2017 club car precedent golf cart.
Comes with charger.
Batteries are 3-4 years old.
Cart chargers and runs and drives with no issues.
Price is $1950 cash. “
Was curious is this a good deal? I have family members that cannot walk for long distances due to bad knees and ankles. This would be our first cart.
Thanks in advance!
Looking for some advice from the good people of the forum.
Someone crashed my EZGO RXV. The top hit a low branch at speed and the roof support struts are very bent. I suspect there’s more damage but I don’t need a perfect cart.
I need to buy new front and rear support struts and hope things aren’t too bent to remove the old and add the new.
Where I run into confusion is the serial number. 5009605. Everything I read says the last digit is the year, but I don’t think they made these in ‘05.
Any thoughts before I order the wrong part?
Worst case scenario , I just remove the roof all together. But I’d rather fix it.
Here are the colors available, in larger pictures than the website is currently giving, with a snapshot of the Paramount M/T tires on a SB Force rim. It also has the signature seats in tundra gray.
Was standing outside doing some yard work at my camper with my cart charging. 13 month old Chins battery in a Ezgo TXT 36v. Loud pop from the cart and smoke coming from under the seat. Opened the seat and got a lung full of smoke (throat hurt from that half a breath I took in). Saw smoke pouring from the battery and the top blown off. I managed to get it out and thrown into the fire pit, another loud pop then side of the case bulging with more smoke. Unknown damage to the electrical on the cart since I have no way of testing anything, Chins response is to send me another battery if I pay $100 shipping or refund half the purchase price. I am going for the refund since I will never trust Chins again. Took a chance on a cheap import to save a little money but now I’m paying for it. Figured it was the chance because “all lithium is the same and the big companies are just making profit off a name” Lesson learned. Should have went with a good battery from the start.
Club car with navitas 5k 600a stretched, lifted with alpha body and 88 inch top. Did the navitas and first lift about two years ago.
Hey guys,
Boss asked me to take a look at his father in laws cart and I’m struggling to make any sense of it.
Father in law apparently parked it for the winter and left it and now it’s dead. Batteries are refreshed and don’t believe there’s an issue there.
That being said when the charger is plugged in the indicator is giving the fault that the battery is disconnected.
Had a quick look over it this afternoon before going back tomorrow for another attempt.
Any recommendations of where to start?
Edit: It’s a club car, serial number AQ0728-777119. 48v I believe. No idea of the year.
Batteries replaced within the last 12 months, did not check water levels though.
It is a 2024 Club Car Villager 4 gas model. I have some LED light strips on the cart currently. Going to add a sound bar and that is it. Currently the LEDs are connected directly to the battery and I am sure the Bluetooth controller is probably pulling some sort of low power constantly.
My question is, I assume this would be the same as adding a fuse block to a car?
I would take 10 gauge wire, make two short runs and from the negative and positive on the battery go to the negative and positive on the fuse block. From there take the negative on the led lights/sound bar and connect directly into the negative on the fuse block, positive from each accessory would plug directly into a rocker switch for each device, make my own power cables from the rocker switch to the fuse block and would I need to make a negative run from each rocker switch to the fuse block? Or having each accessory negative go directly to the fuse block correct?
I am FINALLY 98% finished with my golf cart. I still have to finish mounting rear lights, mount a few switches etc, but otherwise it's finally done. I know it's not everyone's taste, but it's what I wanted it to be and that's what's important to me. It has been a lot of work and money, but it's also been very therapeutic for me. I have gained a lot of respect for the folks who do this for a living, and or hobby. I learned to weld, fabricate, do body work the right way, paint (hopefully the right way) and fight through a daily struggle with ADHD to stick with a project through the end. Now I just need a few months to finish some other projects around the house, while rebuilding my bank account and I will find another project that I can do some painting on.
I have a 2013 club car precedent 48v. I’ve tried a couple things so far. We just replaced the switch for the lights I have 16v to the switch and 6 volts at the 6 pin. I have verified the lights work with a m12 battery. I’m not sure on what the part is in the picture but I have 0v with the switch off and 1.2v with the switch on if anyone has any help or additional questions feel free to ask
I just upgraded to lithium, and the cart will be used by strangers. Of course I cannot address all issues, but I am going to put a plate in the cart to try to help. Any input on what I have right now?
2002 EZGO
How do we wire this? We are literally just trying to get this thing running at this point and we are at a loss as to how to wire everything.
I just installed the batteries from last year that were kept in the basement that was heated. The cart is very slow and doesn’t have the speed that it used to. The batteries are purchased from Costco in 2024
I tested each one and I’m getting 6.3v on each Individual battery. When connected all together I think I’m getting 30v? I tested the neg terminal on one side and the positive on the far end. Am I doing it right? Also are the batteries done?
I posted here a month or so back in regard to a bad/loose ground and that fixed it that time however I still have a ground issue. Cart ran for maybe a month then stopped running. The neutral wire on the battery terminal gets hot to the touch so I added a wire going to frame ground to see if that would get it going. Still nothing. I pulled one of the spark plugs and grounded it to the motor and when pressing the pedal, I only get one spark and nothing more. Carb is getting fuel and air. I changed the coil with no luck
I have a 2009 CC Precedent with the old GE motor. It stared running slow so I put in a new speed sensor. Ran ok for about 5 minutes and then started bucking. Got a new MCOR, installed it and went on a test run. Ran fine until I heard a small thud and then it started bucking again. Anyone have any idea if it’s an overall electrical issue or maybe just bad parts I purchased (off Amazon)? Batteries are in good shape, three are less than a year old, and before these issues I had a speed magnet on it that would really make that thing move. Especially downhill.
Up for consideration is a 2002 Gem E4 with a lithium upgrade and an upgraded motor that can do up to 45mph. The cart itself looks amazing but I’m a novice. What should I be looking for? Asking price is about $4500. Legal title in hand. Good price or what else should I be worried about? Pics in comments cause I’m too stupid to figure out how lot add to post
Looking at a 6seater 2026 XL6. Dealer is offering it for $13,500 which seems high. Salesman said the previous model ($1000 less) doesn’t have as good suspension and also doesn’t have the lighting around the perimeter that makes it “safer at night”. Feels really high in general for a Chinese made golf cart, but ready to decide soon, just want to pick which model. thoughts?
so... this past weekend i was helping a fellow carter( i swear it wasnt me).. and when all was said and done... we only had forward working... reverse would engage and the solenoid would click ... but there was not power to the wheels so to say... like it would creep on level ground at maybe 1" a few seconds.....
did some googling... just to make sure we cut and connected the right blue wire coming from the charging port...
i think one google got use a test of lifting back wheels off ground...and that would determine one issue vs another...honestly the miller lites where getting in the way on my comprehension at that point..
just looking for a few ideas...thanks