anybody know if there is a quick/easy fix for this since it is such a small hole? It is my daily driver currently, is there anything I can do atm without replacing the whole tank?
Can’t get enough out of the exhaust note out of the 4.6
Longtime lurker here. Ran into something that has me stumped and thought someone here might have an idea or some guidance.
Replaced a high amperage alternator that had been working well for about 3 years in a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis. The replacement would run around 14v when driving, but dip down to 12 or less at idle. (For context, there is a second battery in the rear of the car, large inverter, and an audio amplifier, but the batteries and equipment are isolated from the main, and I had them disconnected when there were signs of an issue). When I installed this, years ago, I added a 0 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery, a 0 gauge wire from the battery to the rear battery with a circuit breaker on both sides, added a 0 gauge ground from the alternator case to the frame, added a 0 gauge ground from that same frame location to the battery, and added a 0 gauge ground from a factory panel ground location to the battery.
Voltage was low enough with the rear battery and equipment disconnected that the ac would kick off, so I charged and verified a good battery under the hood, and assumed just a bad rebuilt alternator. Replaced it again under warranty, and now I start off around 13.5-13.8 and all is well until headlights pop on, then I start dropping at idle until I’m no longer charging. Jumps back up to 13.X when I get back moving, but never back to where it was in the first few minutes of the car being started. I verified matching voltages at battery, alternator, and the voltage traveller/sense wire at the alternator/PCM harness. I also have no actual change in behavior with that harness unplugged other than the charging system light on the dash popping on, and corresponding code. When I did pull codes with the basic tool I have, I had the P0622 charging code from unplugging that harness, and also the P1000 code that I assume is because I had disconnected the battery earlier. I also replaced the serpentine belt, and tensioner when I swapped out the alternator just in case there was some slipping.
I’m assuming if there was a pcm module issue I’d get a light, or a specific code, but here I am.
Any guidance on next steps would be greatly appreciated.
Hello I have a 2000 grand marquis HPP with 241k I randomly bought and indeed over paid for unfortunately..
In the process of fixing everything I have now reached the transmission and I need to drop all the fluid.
I have the torque converter drain plug and I have already dropped the pan replaced the gasket/filter.
Dropped the pan twice have added 8 fresh quarts in total and it’s shifting fantastic but you can tell the TC is struggling with all the burnt fluid that still left inside of it even added a lubeguard instant fix and it immediately helped the vehicle.
I have the pan drop method down to a science its really not hard just drop the pan and add 4 quarts.
But I cant find the information or a video showing the full process of dropping the pan AND draining the TC..
Can anyone help guide me on the process for refilling the 10-12 quarts when I do a full flush ? Thank you
So for the rear most know we can use the moog cc501s for perfect rear fitment from like early year gm cars
But fronts not so much because for the fronts not many good options we have the cc80551 from the rear of the 2002-05 explorer but it’s not perfect people still cut the fronts with those
I want to avoid cutting
Then I thought why not just grab a set of rear lowering springs from the explorer not a stock replacement and I found the belltech 5310(I think not 100 percent sure if that’s the exact one) but it’s a 2.5 inch drop for the explorer rear some one tried the belltech fronts and it did not work but I was mot able to find anyone trying the rear lowering springs for an explorer because if oem replacement explorere springs fit why would lowering ones not work ?
That’s just my thought process a 3.5 inch drop might be excessive because 2.5 inch drop from the oem explorers high which is a 1 inch drop on the panther platform coming out to a total of 3.5 inches but if there is a less aggressive lowering spring for the explorer why would it not work? It’s same top and bottom mounting points and most the time side width is also the same
Lmk what yall think
I consider perfect fitment to be tire to fender I would not mind the 3.5 inch drop but I’d have to find something for the rears then cuz the rear would be sitting higher then the front
This is an update for the linked post. Collision place says it’s 8k to fix. Insurance says the car is worth 2.6k so it’s a ‘total loss’. I’d hate to get rid of her because she’s got a new radiator, fuel pump, intake manifold, etc. I’m planning on getting the car back so I’ll be getting around 2.3k from insurance and then probably going to buy another MGM and just part Bertha out 😢
What are the chances that someone here is in NJ willing to help me out? Sell me a good new one, help fix up the old one, console me, etc 😂
Bags were replaced by the previous owner 2 years ago, and I replaced the compressor. It's currently in a parking lot 20 minutes from me, and I don't think I can drive it home. I might've burst the line when I hit a curb at a round a bout 2 days ago. Could I fix this in the parking lot, or should I get it towed?
Hey All!
Just got a 2003 Grand Marquis and loving it! I need to replace the door key. (I don't have one). I know some say a locksmith may be the best option. Some are quoting around $125 for one key. I called Ford and they do not have the files to cut from the VIN #. What would or have you done in the past? Any services that you recommend to cut from the VIN? Thanks!
Claims to increase throttle responsivity, something i wouldn't mind in my 2000 mgm. Anyone know if i can fuck up my car by doing this or if its safe? Thanks
Edit because I never said what the mod was in case its not a commonly known thing (idk im new to this stuff) basically the guy on youtube took the snorkel out His air intake box and replaced it with a certain size plastic cup, increasing airflow.
Car for attention
Hey guys, prepare for a little yap fest, sorry in advance.
I bought my first ever car 2 months ago at 18 years old. Its a 2000 mercury grand marquis. The thing has been awesome, love it with every ounce that a man can love an inanimate object. However, there was one issue. Torque converter shudder. At 145k miles, the fluid was never changed. Not being a car person myself, this wasnt something i knew to check for before I bought the car, only learned the hard way, the way that stupid young men like me do. Anyway, although im a stupid young man, im a stupid young man who wants to be a smart young car owner. So I researched. For hours. I found a product called lubegard instant shudder fix. Popped it in my transmission and it fixed the shudder 90% of the time. Still shuddered on steep hills etc. I decided that since the product is meant to be a short term bandaid, I need to take LONG TERM steps to ensure my car's health for many many more miles. Asked all around the internet, including here. Asked family in law ex mechanics. Asked my dad. Asked my dad's car guy friend. I got many many mixed responses. Some said dont change the fluid, my trans will explode. Some said do it now or else my trans will explode later. I finally took the car to a shop to get an in person, professional opinion. Told me a fluid change should do the trick for me. Fast forward to 2 hours ago, and its been done. Took car for a test drive, about 10 miles of around town driving. Went up hills, down hills, straight roads, light acceleration, heavy acceleration, took on the highway at 60mph. Final result determined, is that my car is no better and maybe even just a little worse. Maybe shudders 20% of time now rather than the 10% from just adding shudder fix.
According to my research, due to the fluid change not working, that means it is a mechanical and therefore very expensive problem. I am broke, barely able to pay for my first semester of college this upcoming fall. I do not have the money to replace my whole transmission at the moment. What can I do? I am so defeated. I take pride in my ability to handle myself in this life, and god has given me the strength to deal with tough situations. However, this is an all time low in my short time on this earth. Im sure you older folk hear my story and think "ahhhh this naive young lad, wait till he experience real hard ship" and thats probably a fair thing to think. But in this moment, I dont know what to do. Im a practical person who usually knows or if I dont, figures out what to do when I habe problems. I live on youtube tutorials for my small issues in life, and I almost always find a way to soldier onward.
Sorry for the yap fest, but i just needed to talk about this. Im looking for any and all advice, now that I got my meraphorical tears out of the way through this post, im ready to get back into work mode and figure this thing out. Thanks yall
Had a constant open door warning on 07 mgm, wasnt sure what exactly was causing the issue (maybe door module, maybe wiring, not sure). Ive been saving up money to get it checked out, I live in the desert but it rained HEAVY here the past few days and suddenly the open door warning is gone. Could it be that a pin or latch or something in the door was stuck (maybe dirt/dust) and the rain loosened it up? Just wanting to pick people's brains on this/hear ideas really, Ive never encountered this before😅
Hello fellow grand marquis owners.
I need to replace the window motor and regulator in my grand marquis but it uses rivets.
I know you can use nuts and bolts instead but I'm a bit OCD so I would like to replace the old rivets that will be drilled out with new ones so it's looks the same as when it came from the factory (yes I know no one will ever see this unless the remove the door panel) but I do not know what tools I need or what size rivets I need.
Thanks in advance!
my job is having a silent auction and they put this 2003 gm in the lot. i do have a little history with it so i’m willing to bid a little higher. quick back story, i work with people with IDD, i used to work residential when i started. the first person i worked with was an old lady, and we would be whippin around in the “hoopty”.
the part that gets me is that it’s a silent auction so i have no idea what others may bid. this is the first time im learning about the panther platform, but ive always loved vics of course. obviously, everyone’s budget is different, but what would be your max bid?
no lights on the dash, 104k miles
east coast car prices for comparison
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I found nothing about it. I have an 05 MGM LS and I'm trying to connect a backup camera. There are three wires going to each reverse bulb, a black wire, a brown wire, and a blue/red wire. Which is the hot wire? There are no black/pink wires which is what I saw online.