Wow what a thing of beauty! Not bad for my cheap home garage setup... What a disgusting job that was though. Any BMW techs have the labour time for this job? Could have got it perfect but I was paranoid about launching walnuts somewhere they shouldn't be even with tonnes of protection - this is 1000x better than before!
I have a 2016 BMW M235xi (Auto) that I haven’t been able to drive since July 4th (mostly waiting on things to ship, see if it works, it doesn’t, then waiting on more shipping). The issue started right at the beginning of a hard pull, fell completely flat when it finally shifted to second and just bogs with any throttle, and at some point just completely stalled and shuts the engine off, barely made it home bc it was up a hill and stalled 2 times, plus a steep subdivision too.
Car seems to idle just fine but bogs under any throttle and can’t really go past 2K rpm.
Car has a Stage 2 xHP transmission tune and that’s it, no engine tune.
I have no CEL light, I used BimmerLink/BimmerCode and saw a soft code “Air mass, plausibility: air mass too low” in the beginning (I have cleared it since and it hasn’t returned though I have only started the car for a max of 7mins since then) and replaced the air filter, which I unfortunately completely forgot about this simple maintenance and that air filter hasn’t been changed for about 2 years. I replaced the air filter, issue persisted. I cleaned my MAF sensor, didn’t work, so I bought a brand new one and the issue still persisted. Where I’m currently at is I purchased a VRSF Charge pipe kit to replace the piping in case that’s the issue but wondering if that could even be related, at a complete loss if it’s not.
Hi, my pwg N55 has this slight rattle just right before the engine starts that appears only on warm start ups. I do not notice it when cold starting. Has anyone ever resolved similar issue?
Code: BMW 377A: engine cooling system has switched off the electric coolant pump due to a blockage or mechanical seizure
Just moved to Florida and my 2013 335i E93 (120k miles, been running stage 2 mhd tune) definitely felt the heat. Car overheated one day and coolant started to spill out. Towed to mechanic and he quoted me 4k to replace the radiator and upper hose.
So obviously I towed it back to my place to do it myself. Got the new hose and radiator it but when I poured coolant back in and started to bleed the system while hooked up to a battery charger.
For some reason the bleed was taking 20 minutes and was still going, I heard the pump still running and saw coolant still flowing into the expansion tank. Drove around a bit and still got engine overheated warnings and 377A code.
I tried the bleed again but left it running for much longer, after 25 minutes it was still bleeding so I left to go eat and came back 20 minutes later and the ignition was still off (battery not the issue hazards were still on and battery charger says battery was at 100%).
When i turned the ignition back on the bleed started up right away.
I stopped the bleed after another 20 minutes and cleared the codes. The 377A code comes back right when I start driving again.
My mechanic thinks it is the thermostat, I hear and see the pump working when I bleed the car.
Hello this is my first post here but I desperately need some advice. I have a 2012 335i F30 with the n55 engine. When I accelerate I’m getting this really weird like sputtering noise that I can’t really describe (see videos) can anyone diagnose this or at least point me in the right direction? Thank you so much in advance. It seems to go away at high rpms but I’m not sure if that’s just the noise speeding up to the point where it blends in. It also only happens while my foot is on the accelerator. If I’m at middle rpms and let my foot off the noise instantly stops even while the rpms are still up.