Couldn’t find any varget or cfe223 at my local shop but the guy behind the counter said red dot works great for high velocity loads so I filled up the case up to the neck (roughly 30 grains). My dies for 5.56 haven’t came in the mail yet but a pair of channel locks got the bullet in snug and made my own little crimp with some needle nose pliers. Close enough.
The process I do currently
Run everything though a decaping die
Clean brass with rag and isopropyl alcohol
Full length sizing die (expander ball removed)
Expander mandrel (not sure what the best lube is for this I have tried a few things but nothing feels great, I have dry graphite powder lube that I’m trying soon)
Hand prime with cci large rifle primer
Then charge with powder ( I have 2 scales so I double check it)
Then seat bullet
Need some guidance on how I should clean brass with out spending a ton of money and getting good results, goal is to shoot at a mile eventually.
If you guys have advice on how I should do my process differently please let me know I’m all ears
This is 43r (monolithic printed ammo) beginner slugs. Just about the wimpiest ammo available. Demonstrating the reloading process without any real equipment. I usually use better tools and a press for this stuff, just a demonstration for release to show how simple printed ammo can be for beginners.
P.S.
I don't recommend hammering ammo, or using a gun as a hammer in general.
Had to hammer each one from the front with a cleaning rod and a hammer. Should I just drop some lube in the chamber and increase charge to help them extract easier?
Did a batch of 12ga on the old Lee load all jr for my iver Johnson single shot and ran into some issues. About half of them have lots of crush and big bulge right above brass head. So I wrapped electrical tape around them to help chamber and smooth out the edges. I still have to jam them In there real good to get the action to close all the way but overall I’m happy with the results! I lubed them with some rcbs case lube right before chambering so they go in easier, but it’s still a tight fit. I figured once it fires, the chamber pressure will just fire form the plastic straight anyway. I charged them with that leftover Alliant bullseye/ titegroup mix from the 410 project to make sure the payload exits hard enough. Can’t wait to try these out later!
Alright ladies and gentlemen(mostly gentlemen) it’s time for me to actually start reloading I’ve bought everything I need beside dies powders and primers.
I’m a little confused but I think I know the answer but I’ll take some advice and feedback.
I’ll be reloading 300aac blkout (ruger bolt gun & ar-15)
And 45-70 government to start out with. (New marlin 1895 by Ruger lever gun)
What dies should I get I don’t care about the name or who’s better (for now)
I see there is 2/3/4 die sets.
So on 45/70 because it’s a lever gun I want to crimp it correct ? So 3 die ?
I’ll be getting the micrometer sets for both
And on the 300 blk crimp isn’t necessary on the bolt gun but you want a crimp on the ar-15? So 3 die sets also ?
Should I get the 3 die set and call it a day ?
Also should I buy a Lee universal decamping die as well ? These will be my first loads so I’m gonna take my time and listen to your feedback,
They will also be subsonic loads as well
Also do u think 45-70 or 300 aac would be easier to load for starting out?
Sorry for being a new guy and thanks for your help !
Had to hammer each one from the front with a cleaning rod and a hammer. Should I just drop some lube in the chamber and increase charge to help them extract easier?
No pressure signs here amirite? By the end of a 12rd rapid string muzzle velocity goes from 2800fps to >3000fps.
So I finally got around to doing my very first reload, and its on 7.7 arisaka. go to seat the first bullet and I end up fucking up. so the question now is whether to scrap the round and pull it or yeet it