Video of 18” Solo X
Follow up to my last post of my sub bumping💯🔥🔥🔥🔥 Love this jawn so far, definitely gets a lot of heads turning😂
Follow up to my last post of my sub bumping💯🔥🔥🔥🔥 Love this jawn so far, definitely gets a lot of heads turning😂
Hello All, So Recently, my neighbor has offered me this Audio Ace Amplifier, he said he Believes this is a 1600w Prototype Amplifier, as his friends shop was right next to Audio Aces near the time of Aquirement, it has been ran on a 1st gen Orion HCCA the entire time he had it, then it sat for the last year until I aquired it for roughly $35, it does work!
Does anyone know what this is? Any help would be Appreciated!
It Has 1/0 Gauge Power And Ground and 10 Gauge Speaker Outs.
So I have a 8 inch dd audio 508e. And im hearing this rattle. Its definitely something in the sub or enclosure but what? The bass is deep and clean and controlled just the rattle ruins the enjoyment.And i can hear it from the driver seat as well. Song is Peaches and Cream by Shoreline Mafia. Tail end of it especially produces alot of that rattle your hearing in the video.
2 CT sounds BIO 12’s D4 for 1 ohm load
1 RECOIL RED1200.1
5 PSUs for a total of 12,3V 100A
Hey guys, iam 16 years old and I ahve a 99 grand marquis, I recently redid the audio system with 4 NVX VSP 6X8 and they are awesome, but they have no bass, I knew this when buying them but I was wondering, what is a good sub setup for like 500-700$ for that crasy bumming bass I was thinking skar audio but idk, wpuld u guys give me recommendations. Thanks
I’m adding a dual 10 inch subwoofer and amp setup to my 2000 civvy sedan and was wondering if anyone has done or even considered doing a setup where the amp was installed in the rear shelf, between the rear speakers, with the huge subs i was trying to save some space in the trunk and i figured it would be nice and out of the way, still allow me to tune the amp from inside the car, and be a really nice touch if i got lighting for the amp, it seems to me like it would be pretty easy to just cut into the shelf a bit for the wires to drop straight into the trunk for the subs and ground, would this work?
TLDR- Can i mount an amp to my 2000 honda civic rear shelf?
It’s a kicker sub, kicker amp, bass is insanely loud and distorted. I’m a novice at this so if you think you can tell me how to fix it explain it to me like I’m 5!
Thanks for all the responses. It was the hi/lo button. The gain was high because I was trouble shooting didn’t even know what it was. For the record I’m 19. To all of the key board warriors on here talking crazy learn how to read a description before you comment. I made it clear I was new to this and you guys are out here acting like children.
My 10 inch sub can only be wired at 1ohm or 4 ohm. I don’t need the most power but I want more than I have now at 4 ohm. If you were to chose between the two what would you chose
I just got the Skar EVL 12 full bass package (with the 1500.1 amp) for my new 3rd gen Ram 1500, and I need some help with subwoofer orientation + general advice. I currently have the subwoofer pointed upwards at an angle, but I noticed that when I roll the windows down slightly, the low frequencies hit way harder. I am wondering if this has something to do with the orientation of the subwoofer. I have looked online to find what orientation is best, and I have seen so many different answers for the same question. Does it even matter? Is the window thing even related to the orientation? Please let me know what I can do to make my system the best it can be.
(Don’t judge the wiring; this was a temporary.)
I’m soon building a 6th order bandpass series box for two DDAudio 608f’s and i’m wondering how good cone damping / excursion control 6th order enclosures have? Is it safe to feed the subs with a few hundred more watts than rms?
I come from the early 2000’s bumping with hifonics pioneer, JL audio and kicker combos and I even messed with soundstream for a while.
I just heard about taramps amps on Amazon and they generally have good reviews
What’s the word on them after the first year of use?
I’m looking to run 2 15 inch DVC 4ohm subwoofers with 2,000 RMS each
So I stumbled across this 4,000.1 amp.
I’d like real life experience vs just being told to stay away without real first hand experience on them.
Thanks ladies and gents
I want to install a tube port in my Skar audio 2013 F150 sub box. They sell a ported version but I did not have the forsight to purchase that version but I believe I can put a tube port in the sealed version I have. I’m running 2 Skar VD-12 2ohm subwoofers inside the box but I am new to this and I’m concerned that I am going to ruin the sound quality or the box itself. Any advice would be appreciated.
Kicker Solo X 18” with a Kicker LX3000.1 amp, just got this setup like 2 days ago but it bangs🔥🔥
does anyone know what kinda sub, door speakers, amps, and other included hardware i could buy on a budget of around 800-1200 to throw into my wagon, and possibly transfer into a different car in like 2 years. its gonna be playing reggae, rap, and maybe a bit of metal. assistance definitely needed plz and ty
Has anyone tried these newer subs in their Tacoma yet? Just curious.
Hi everyone,
I’m struggling with a persistent 50 Hz mechanical transformer hum coming from my subwoofer and could use some input.
The hum has been present ever since I bought the subwoofer new. The seller recently sent me a brand-new amplifier module to replace the original one, but after installing it, the issue remains. The hum disappears for 2–3 seconds on boot, but returns as soon as audio plays or after pausing.
Troubleshooting done so far:
Measured wall outlet: 224V AC, ~12mV DC offset.
Disconnected RCA / signal cables: Hum persists regardless of input.
Tested on different circuits in the house: Same result.
Since the hum is identical on two different amp modules, I’m wondering: Is this just a flaw/inherent characteristic of this specific transformer model, or is there anything else I should check before returning it?
Thanks for any advice!
I have a dual xdcpa10bt and a pioneer gm-d9701 hooked up to a comp c 10” svc 4ohm kicker. My sub would always pop and make a weird thump/farting type bass noise. Not very loud but I could hear it. And paired with that would be my amp going into protect or flash the blue power light on for like 10 seconds. I tried everything to reverse/negative tuning my eq bands but leaving 50db on 0 and sub gain on my deck to 6 out of 6 but it almost caused more issues. I then remember I had my amp gain on like 70% around 2 o’clock when I first got it and it would slam with no problems? It’s when I got paranoid and started using chat got that it told me to do all these things that I think started my issues. I know loudness is usually bad and using eq bands is bad ( I guess you should keep it flat or negative tune??) but why is it when I turned my loudness back on and kept my eqs modest (nothing past 2) everything works normally again and my amp runs cool now (used to heat up while not even playing anything just sitting there not playing any audio would make it hot) I have my amp gain at around 40% which is way less then it was when I first got it but I’m only having it lower cuz I’m scared of fuckn it up but loudness seems to have stopped all my clipping and popping and it’s been 4 days. Can anyone explain that?
Would 8 inch sewage pipe be ok for port material? Obviously never used lol, but this was an unused cutoff so I snagged it for my upcoming box build