r/wahoofitness

Hello all!

I bought wahoo tickr fit, I noticed that it was giving incorrect readings during exercise. When I was out of breath while cycling uphill, it showed my heart rate at 90-100 BPM. In reality, the pulse is 160-180. I decided to test it with a regular chest heart rate monitor (not Wahoo) and apple watch. Under the load the error is about 30-40 BPM, and sometimes even 60 BPM. And the greater the load, the greater this difference in readings. But in a calm state the indicators are identical on all three devices...

Could you tell me if this is a defect or normal? And should I contact Wahoo support?

Hey r/cycling / r/homegym / r/indoorcycling,

We are incredibly excited to announce that our new app, Kadnce, is officially LIVE on the Google Play Store!

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We know that a lot of you are Apple users and we are hoping to have an iOS build out later this year to support you.

Join us on our Discord if you want to chat with the team, share your favorite real-world routes, or help us improve Kadnce going forward.

Thank you so much for checking us out—see you on the road!

I wanted to see if anyone has experienced GPS performance issues with cameras or other devices mounted under their Wahoo head unit?

There are numerous posts on this here and in other forums — it seems like a common issue, but I haven't found a clear resolution or a definitive answer on root cause.

The question: has anyone established whether the issue lies with the Wahoo devices (poor shielding, h/w faults, etc.) or the camera devices (EMI, shielding, etc.)?

My situation and testing:

In my setup I have a Cycliq Fly12 Sport camera mounted under a Wahoo Element Roam v2. I am using a third party KOM Mount. With the Cycliq camera turned on I see a noticeable decrease in the Roam's GPS performance.

General symptoms:

• Very slow satellite lock at the start of the ride with the camera on
• Slow to re-establish satellite lock after adverse conditions (tunnels, buildings, etc.) — drops GPS lock for an extended period
• Occasional GPS dropout, though these are rarer

I exported a couple of FIT files and ran some analysis in AI on the GPS accuracy field. It does show a clear difference, though I should note these rides are not directly comparable — one was a shorter, slower ride; the other was a longer, harder effort. I plan to repeat this in a more controlled environment next week.

GPS Accuracy Field

Metric	Ride 1 – No Camera	Ride 2 – With Camera
Mean accuracy	1.41 m	2.45 m
Median accuracy	1 m	2 m
Max accuracy	17 m	19 m
Std deviation	1.46 m	1.99 m
Points ≤3m	96.9%	88.1%
Points ≤5m	98.0%	93.8%
Missing GPS lock	0 / 3,041 records	75 / 7,582 records

Notes:

• u/GPLama tested this in his Fly12 Sport review and found it less of a problem than previous models
• I've been going back and forth with Cycliq support. Their advice was to let the ROAM establish GPS lock before powering the camera on, ensure the devices are a "few centimetres away", and that they have no control over Wahoo's hardware. they initially sent a canned responses, this combined with their advice suggests this is a known and recurring issue.

Professionally i work in IT operations. Although it is not a severe issue - i cant unsee it

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I have a wahoo kickr core and there was a distinct rubbing noise on the plastic whilst in use. For a while I’ve just been running it with the plastic cover off and it’s been fine, but I could do with properly reassembling it.

I’d assumed the cover had just gotten a bit bent or something, but looking at the belt it almost looks like it’s got a spare grove on the inside and is overhanging.

I have absolutely no idea how it could have ended up like this, as it sounded fine before and is under too much tension to be able to move it back (I realise I can slacken it off if needed).

I just wanted to check before fiddling with it whether this is how others looked, or whether mine needed adjusting?

Hi all, I'm fairly new to Zwift and I've been loving it so far but in the last week I keep getting drops in power to the point where I'm killing myself to get over 100 watts. I assume this is a connection issue between the Wahoo Kickr and Zwift. I've tried resetting everything and connecting via direct Bluetooth and through my phone but nothing has worked. I did a spindown on the Wahoo app before the ride in the picture and turned the Wahoo app off before opening Zwift. The entire way I felt like I was keeping a relatively similar cadence but the erg mode kept cutting in and out, rendering it almost impossible to spin the pedals at certain points. Any advice? Is it worth getting an Ant+ adapter and connecting through that?

Just got a brand new Wahoo KICKR Core 2 and I’m having constant disconnect issues specifically with the KICKR itself. My Zwift Click stays connected perfectly fine, but the Core randomly disconnects during pairing or mid-ride.
I’m running Zwift on a 2-year-old ASUS OLED laptop with Bluetooth. Other Bluetooth devices work perfectly on this laptop. I already tried:
Power cycling everything
Forgetting/re-pairing the KICKR
Turning Bluetooth off on my phone
Closing Wahoo/Zwift Companion apps
Reinstalling/pairing through Zwift only
Moving the laptop close to the trainer
The weird part is:
Sometimes it connects and works for a few minutes
Sometimes it drops instantly
Zwift Click remains connected while only the KICKR disconnects
I’ve also seen multiple Reddit posts from people describing similar KICKR Core 2 disconnect issues, so now I’m wondering if this is firmware, Bluetooth instability, or an actual hardware issue.
Anyone else dealing with this on the Core 2 specifically?

I was so fucking excited to use this and ride to destress and the fact is doing this is just such a bummer. Very dissatisfied and disappointed.

Edit: apparently lots of people use an ANT+ connection I purchased one on Amazon and will provide update of connection improves and drops stop happening using ANT+ vs using Bluetooth

Hey everyone,

I just recently bought my Kickr core 2 with the cog and clickers. After my third or fourth ride, I noticed that I was feeling like I was tipping towards my right. I’ve tried to google and see what is up but I can’t get a good answer.

Please take a look at my setup and give me any pointers, at this point I can’t tell if it’s my cockpit setup or the way I have the trainer installed.

Any help is appreciated!

(Also let’s be friends on Strava if you want)