r/woodstoving

Bought a house with a beautiful Rumford Fireplace about a year ago. Unfortunately, it had stage 3 creosote throughout the whole chimney and smoke chamber probably caused from a bad damper on
the roof. I had one anxious fire in it from the picture.

The size of my chimney and slope of my roof made fixing this a very costly. Reading about the benefits of stoves we opted to get the masonry chimney PCR treated, get a liner installed and convert the fireplace to a wood-stove.

I was between Jotul 500 Oslo and Jotul 445 Holliday so I built wood boxes to their dimensions to see what looked better in the space. Wound up with the Jotul 445 Holliday.

I like how it came out. Time to stack wood and build a mantle.

We purchased a home with a wood stove in the basement. Stove pipe exits basement through foundation wall and Selkirk Ultra Temp stainless on the exterior…see photos. The wall tee clean out plug has fallen out and I know this must be reinstalled before use as chimney won’t draft correctly and I’ll pull smoke and carbon monoxide into the basement.

Being installed in this window well is less than ideal as I can barely reach the bottom of the tee. I am going to dig down and remove the gray window wells for better access. I did try to push the tee back in, but based on feel it does not seem like it is seated. It’s in enough to stay in place…but feels like it is only 50% in towards the lip of the plug. Now I Realize I should wire brush the interior, as there could be creosote that dripped down.

The plug is not the quarter turn version it is the 6T-IP plug, appears to have slight taper. How far in should this plug push in? All the way to the lip? Isn’t this plug supposed to have a retainer on it to hold it in place? Instruction manual shows a retainer, but I don’t see any replacement part…just the universal retainer, which is for the different universal wall mount. This property is over an hour away from retail stores….so I would like to purchase what I need to retain this plug before heading up this weekend. I appreciate any suggestions you may have.

Thanks!

I bought a new Woodstock Soapstone Ideal Steel last year, and it was awesome to have this incredible wood heat at home. But it does get too hot sometimes when I follow the burning instructions from the company, and those I read here. My house is about 1700 square feet or so, a 1970s colonial in upstate NY. So it's not an airtight well-insulated house, but not too bad either (previous owners put in some new insulation about 10 years ago). Should I just burn cooler, even if it doesn't reach the recommended temperatures on the stove pipe? I had the chimney cleaned this summer, and the guy said it was good, that he could tell I burned it hot. But I'm considering if I should lean into more smoldering and less hot fires this winter. Thoughts?

Have all the surroundings. It was just cleaned by a sweep.

Hello all!

We have this old inglenook fireplace with a wood burner and need to make it safe for our 1-year-old.

We’re renting, so we’d rather not drill into the old brickwork, and the wall on one side is plasterboard.

Our chimney sweep has also recommended extending the hearth forward to protect the carpet.

We were wondering whether there’s a **freestanding/weighted fireguard** that could work with this setup, or whether anyone has any other suggestions?

Has anyone dealt with something similar? Any advice would be really appreciated!

Jotul Carrabassett 55

New gasket and new glass (all OEM)

Damper is all the way down. Does this seem normal?

Think it’s getting air from somewhere

Stove is only 3 years old

I have spent 3 hours trying to figure this out and need help. PLEASE.

Double wall stove pipe DSP trying to get the last piece into the class A thimble and none of the adapters fit and there is zero help online so far.

Please help

Hello everyone. I just bought one of those flexible chimney pipe cleaning brushes that attaches to a drill with plastic bristles.

I believe that I have a telescoping double wall chimney that connects the stove to the rest of the chimney pipe.

Is it easiest to disconnect the telescoping section, slide it up, then clean from the bottom going up?

Or does Jotel have a special way to do it from inside the firebox with minimal removal of parts?

For those who have Jotels, what is your favored approach?

We recently replaced the rope around the fire door and at the same time tried to adjust the roll pin but ended up breaking it off. The problem we have is the grub screw holding it all in place won't budge. Does anyone have any advice for how to get this out (I have a replacement roll pin ready). Thanks in advance. I've attached pictures

Came with the house. With a dog and baby girl I’m trying to get rid of it.

Cleaned up the surface rust and put some polish on it. How much do you think I can sell this for on Facebook in Iowa?

Did a restoration of my 20 YO Regency S2400M that came with our house. Used it the last couple of years as it was but the secondary tubes were thin and drooping and several bricks were in rough shape. Heres to a warm winter in lower Michigan.

Heater is about 3 months old. We do overnight burns with low air on cold nights and cold days we run it with around 20-30% air so that it doesnt throw too much heat and the wood burns longer.

This morning, got it running and burned hotter than we have in a while as the house was pretty cold. It had been running for about 3 hours on full throttle when I noticed a sizzling sound from the flue. Shut it down immediately after the video. No smoke or sparks out the top of the chimney either.