Screw that holds the secondary air tube in place snapped while unscrewing it to clean the stove. How would you remove this? With a pair of locking pliers I can't get a good grip.
Looking for some opinions before I buy my stovepipe.
My barn is fully insulated with closed-cell spray foam. Behind the stove, I built a ventilated noncombustible wall with a 1½” air gap, covered in ½” Hardie board (picture attached).
I’m trying to decide between single-wall and double-wall connector pipe. I know double-wall generally drafts better, keeps flue gases hotter, and can reduce creosote, but it’s also significantly more expensive. Single-wall is much cheaper and throws more heat into the room.
I’m usually a “buy once, cry once” guy, so I don’t mind spending more if it’s actually worth it. But if the benefits of double-wall are minimal in my setup, I’d rather save the money.
For those with experience, which would you choose and why?
Long story short, I’ve wanted a wood stove forever and I’m finally in the process of lining my chimney and cleaning up a Kodiak 70’s ish wood stove. I love the old style for the look and simplicity and I’m not too worried about efficiency as it’s not planned to be my main source of heat. My only concern is not completely smoking out the neighborhood when I burn.
From my understanding once you get a good handle on the air controls and make sure your wood is well seasoned you’ll still get some chimney smoke but very little. With a proper burn how much smoke are you guys getting?
Hello what is the value of this French Godin Wood Stove?
Hi all.
It just moved into my new house, and there is a woodstove. The inside is cracked, does it need to be fixed?
Thank you in advance!
This one looks amazing in my opinion
Looking for some advice here. The tile on my hearth has come off. Is this something I can put back on myself or is it more specialised work? If I can do it myself, what do I use? Iv read adhesive, gorilla glue and plaster. I'm lost!
We are building new, and live in the mountains with a lifetime supply of wood. Have burned on an Earth Stove and another brand I can't remember for 40 years. The new space will be fairly small with radiant heat in concrete floors, so we won't need to heat the whole house with wood - open living/kitchen floor plan <500 sq ft.
Looking for a simple, smaller stove. I'm looking at a Kuma Aspen LE-1, which seems to fit the bill, but wondering if anyone has anything similar in a different mfr? I don't think we can go smaller than 16" log size, and we are in CA which requires the most current EPA standards.
Thanks for feedback!
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I think I'm looking to add a fireplace insert to my round freestanding stone chimney column with a curved masonry opening. The opening is approximately 23" tall, 42" wide (chord, not arc length), and 24" deep, with a 2" hearth lip. The stone face is rough fieldstone so getting a clean straight edge against it is basically impossible.
Had an installer out who only recommended a freestanding stove with no surround which would leave an ugly gap and exposed stovepipe. I'm not satisfied with that answer.
I'm open to custom fabrication, masonry modification, anything really. Just looking for ideas to enclose this/add some heating efficiency that I may not have considered.
Has anyone dealt with a round/curved opening like this? What worked?
I went to a local store and they said they range $5500-6500. But then I see online there are some as low as $1500. What's the deal?
Through a unique sequence of events, we now own a mountain log cabin that was 95% completed in 2005.
One of the not completed projects is a supposed 3 sided fireplace. Some framing is in place and a 10” Metalbestos A218 HT flue is installed, never used. Estimated 30-40 ft run.
The logs you see are just wedged in and easily removed. The framing behind them is primary load bearing. The front framing can be removed and cantilevered to the load bearing framing.
What options do I have that can use the current flue? I found plenty of wood stoves and a few 3 sided fireplaces that will work with some reframing. I’m getting mixed messages on the viability of the flue both due to size and warranty requirements for the stoves/fireplaces requirements.
Rerunning the current flue would be a massive project and I would prefer not to if at all possible.
My 30 year old wood stove is my primary heat source. It runs nearly every day from October through March. After several years of heavy use I'm staring to notice glazing in some sections of my triple wall chimney pipe.
I sweep it every year, use dry wood, and try to maintain high burn rates but ultimately fires die, non-optimal burn characteristics happen when I'm busy or away from home, and frankly, a shit load of wood goes through this thing.
For folks in a similar situation, y'all have a recommended cleaning product? Want to try and get ahead of this as the glazing is minimal and restricted to just a few chimney pieces ATM.
I bought this early 1900s wood stove for outdoor use. While cleaning it, I noticed a fibrous material above the oven section. I am wondering if there is a risk of asbestos and how I can tell.
Considering purchasing this 2010 BK King (KE1107). Anyone have thoughts on value? Seller is asking $1800.
Hi, not sure if anyone can help with this question - it's not so much about stoves but about getting a chimney into a usable state, so I apologise if I am off-topic
I am slowly reconstructing and getting into a habitable state, a 150 year old cottage in the Czech Republic.
First, apologies if my technical terms are incorrect. I am trying to get a chimney which is 120 years old into a functional state to be used with a wood burning stove.
The house and chimneys have been used continuously but the chimney has not been well taken care of.
The chimney is not lined and measures 150mmx150mm.
We currently don't have the budget to demolish and reconstruct it from scratch. Instead I would like to put a 150mm steel flue in. We are in the process of buying a Regency Stove with a 150mm outlet. (Don't have the technical numbers handy, maybe f1150?)
I am in the Czech Republic and have consulted with two local chimney sweeps. Before lining the chimney, they want to do something known locally as chimney milling. Basically, a steel frame is strapped to the top of the chimney and a ball of chains is lowered into it and spun at high speed.
According to the locals, this vibrates the soot in the chimney free and will also “grind” the existing brickwork slightly to make it free of artifacts that will allow the smoothe insertion of the liner.
It look likes this:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=frezovani+kominu
OR
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_vcUoIGxHqo
OR
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlArfDYtoNE
I am pretty doubtful for multiple reasons. Given the age of the bricks and mortar I'm sceptical that such a machine won't bring the whole chimney down. Tbh, the sweeps are talking about grinding the chimney to be 160 mm....so they intend to take 5 mm off each side.
We live in a region where there are thousands of these old cottages and old chimneys. The sweeps assure us that this is standard procedure. I've been trying to find information about it in being used in the west and can't find anything.
OF course, they're not willing to sign any kind of contract that will make them responsible for any possible problems or mishaps.
So my question is, what are the realistic other options. What would a chimney sweep in a more western country do? Should we be considering a narrower liner (140mm) and therefore a smaller stove?
I can't find any reference to “milling” a chimney in the UK or US. How do chimney sweeps install 150mm flues into older 150mm chimneys normally?
Thanks
Looking at used stoves, I found a listing for a Lopi Freedom that appears identical to the Freedom inserts except this one is sitting on brass legs. I can't find any info in the old manuals about accessory legs to convert a regular insert into a freestanding stove. Was this a thing or more likely something an owner that was handy with welding did at some point?
Here's a pic lifted from the listing (I hope that's OK):
I had a wood insert installed by someone, who I believed was a more experienced installer than I they actually turned out to be. It was installed in fall 24 and I only burn intermittently for supplemental heat.
My Question is this:
Thanks all
All new pipes. Is it worth it? Need a new one for hunting camp.
