system includes: RP-160M's, RP-280FA's, and R12WS (not RP)... no center channel
seller has individual parted out listings, but is offering $1700 cad for everything. all in like-new condition.
I would still need to find an AV reviever, but "high end" (relative) hardware is very hard to find on the used market in my area, much less at a reasonable price.
is this worth it?
afaik, this is the only pink SF90 Spider in the world (at least the only one being driven)
cool to see considering I only had a day in Zürich
I've been seeing a lot of posts recently along the lines of speedflipping, how to speedflip, and "what am I doing wrong?" in relation to speedflips, so I went ahead and made a little video guide that breaks down each input with a controller overlay instead of just saying "do a diagonal front flip cancel"
note: there's a minor error in the video. It says "hold power slide to flip cancel." You want to hold air roll. I have power slide and free air roll both bound to left bumper. whoops
If yall would like to me break down / explain the Bakkesmod plugin (or any other commonly used mechs), I can go ahead and do that as well.
Plugin: Speedflip Trainer
Map: Musty - Speedflip Kickoff Test (code: A503-264C-A7EB-D282)
I posted this in r/budgetaudiophile already, so bear with me, I swear I'm not trying to be annoying lmao.
I've got my hands on, from what I can tell, is a pretty decent (late 70's) system consisting of all Pioneer: pair of HPM-60's, SX-880, and a PL-518.
Turntable: could probably use a new needle, otherwise seems fine.
Reciever: clips out sometimes; speakers will cut out, seemingly at random, and rarely. toggling "monitor" switch off of source and back again fixes it. Adjusting the volume (turning volume knob) causes static-y breakup in right channel (right speaker). Only happens while volume is actively being changed. Anyone know how to fix / troubleshoot? Other than that, it seems to work fine.
Speakers: both woofers need to be refoamed, one reads 0L (open circuit) on a multimeter, so I presume it's dead... assuming it's safe to do so, I'll test to confirm after refoaming. If the woofer is dead, I'm planning to replace both with Dayton Audio DC250-8's; better recommendations welcome. Also wondering if it's worth it to replace capacitors while I have the subs out, as I've heard that the caps can drift over the years?
thanks for any input or advice,
- a new (and slightly clueless) audiophile
edit: I've also got a pair of Zenith Allegro 3000's, but afaik the HPM-60's are notably better...
Good "Vintage" System / Worth Restoring?
I've got my hands on, from what I can tell, is a pretty decent (late 70's) system consisting of all Pioneer: pair of HPM-60's, SX-880, and a PL-518.
Turntable: could probably use a new needle, otherwise seems fine.
Reciever: clips out sometimes; speakers will cut out, seemingly at random, and rarely. toggling "monitor" switch off of source and back again fixes it. Adjusting the volume (turning volume knob) causes static-y breakup in right channel (right speaker). Only happens while volume is actively being changed. Anyone know how to fix / troubleshoot? Other than that, it seems to work fine.
Speakers: both woofers need to be refoamed, one reads 0L (open circuit) on a multimeter, so I presume it's dead... assuming it's safe to do so, I'll test to confirm after refoaming. If the woofer is dead, I'm planning to replace both with Dayton Audio DC250-8's; better recommendations welcome. Also wondering if it's worth it to replace capacitors while I have the subs out, as I've heard that the caps can drift over the years?
thanks for any input or advice,
- a new (and slightly clueless) audiophile
I'm a tech guy, but I know basically nothing about actual audio gear and speaker setups.
I found this old pair of Polk R30's that have been collecting dust for who knows how long, but they seem to be in good condition. All I know is that they're passive and need an amp (or receiver??) to power them, and that they're easy to drive.
So, my questions are:
What do I need to start using these speakers, and what can you recommend?
How do they hold up in terms of sound quality? my references are Audeze Maxwell's and Edifier R1700BT's
If it matters, I'm in Canada and plan to use the speakers with a PC, and down the line: a vinyl turntable / record player, and even further down the line: in a small home theater setup.
Budget: ideally under $400 CAD. room dimensions and sitting distance are irrelevant; the speakers will be moving around and I just want to get them working for now.
edit: I got it working with a Pioneer SX-880 that I found. also found a PL-518 lying around. great vintage system and everything sounds great.
https://reddit.com/link/1th8ka2/video/hslv5rmpyz1h1/player
Consider this (yet another) rage post:
With just my preceding knowledge of lurch strafes, I was able to do this with zero additional practice. I have more clips using abusing the double jump, but I'm waiting on a friend to record a 3rd person FOV.
The tech you can do with this tac is absolutely disgustingly broken. I'm already damn near unkillable past 50m with it, so I don't even want to think about how broken it would be if I (or other movement players) actually got good at lurching with it.
For reference, each tac boost gives a spike to over 700 velocity, Octane's stim gives (I believe) around 450, and a perfect superglide (which requires a 150ms timing immediately followed by a 6ms timing [on 180fps]) gives just over 500. Most non-movement players won't understand how insane this is, so just trust me when I say it's plain stupid.
Not to mention you get two tacs, with up to three allowed in play at any given time, and they don't despawn.
And about the ult, it's also broken, most so on (I'm gonna say it...) controller. Aim assist helps massively when tracking in parabolic arcs, which is very difficult to do consistently and smoothly on mnk, therefore, tracking an enemy after they get hit with Axel's ult is inherently easier simply to to the nature of the input.
And yes I'm well aware that the devs know the character is broken. And yes I'm complaining regardless. And no I barely even play the game anymore. And yes I'm still complaining regardless.
I'm probably also gonna get downvoted to shit because this sub seems to hate when mnk players do movement, but oh well.
As much as I don't want to buy into the Bambu ecosystem amid their GPL controversy...
My question is: do the owners of any of the above printers consider it worth it, and do you find yourself using the full featureset that the printer(s) offer? I'm speaking specifically 3D printing wise without the laser add on. Also, if you have experience, how do the printers compare to each other in terms of real-world use and application?
I've looked at basically all possible alternatives, but if you've got something else to recommend, I'm open to suggestions
tldr: do the owners of these printers (specifically H series), find themselves using all the features that they offer?