u/ADynes

Last season our Skelly was out for Halloween. Then it got cold so we decided he could stay out for Thanksgiving. Then it got snowy so we decided to buy him a dog on clearance and have him help put up the Christmas lights. Well then it got windy and one of his arms broke off.

I searched online and I found a bunch of 3D printed ones that were all made with cheap filament but no one had the actual files for me to print it myself. So long story short I designed replacements myself for both the male and female side and have released then 100% free for anyone that has a 3D printer to print. The files are available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2238590-skelly-the-skeleton-replacement-connector-discs#profileId-2436406

If you print them or have someone print them make sure they use something rated for outdoor use like ASA so they hold up. If you don't have a printer see if your local library can print them for you, make now have maker spaces. You can also buy some, including mine, on Etsy and I'm actually posting because I've sold a bunch lately so figure people are preparing for the holiday. Due to the no promotions rule I won't list that link but just make sure if you do buy 3D printed ones they are made of ASA which is outdoor rated and not the cheaper, and more prone to breaking, PLA or PETG.

Made a couple mounts for any Ubiquiti access point that uses their Ubiquiti U-PRO-MP mounting system which includes most bigger access points (E7, U7-Pro, U7-Pro-Max, U6-Enterprise, U6-Pro, U6-LR, etc). The wall mount we needed for a warehouse, the desk mount was on request.

The plate bolts to the mount using the hardware that comes with the AP or any M4 bolts long enough. Then the AP clicks onto the plate like normal so it's pretty universal. Will be looking at adding the screw holes for the smaller AP mounting plate also, probably to the same model since I don't think there needs to be a separate model because of screw holes spacing (hopefully), but I don't physically have one of those smaller plates currently for testing.

Ubiquiti AP's get hot so highly recommend ABS/ASA especially for the wall mount.

Wall Mount: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2793177-ubiquiti-wall-mount-for-access-points-unifi-ap#profileId-3106190

Desk Stand: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2793191-ubiquiti-desktop-stand-for-access-points-unifi-ap#profileId-3106206

Planning on 3D printing my mandalorian costume and started a week ago. Problem was I didn't like any of the grav charges I found. So long story short I designed and 3D printed my own. They look decent and most of all they are "functional" without breaking the bank: each one uses a $3 warning light I got on Amazon that turns on automatically when removed from the holder (which has a magnet on the back) and turns off when "docked".

I published the model for free for anyone that wants to 3D print it. Hopefully it will be useful for someone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3012924-mandalorian-grav-charge-with-lightup-mod-breach#profileId-3384102

Also does anyone have any jump suit suggestions? It's between childish looking ones or paying someone in Pakistan for a $200 outfit (thats all there appears to be on Etsy). I can't find any in between. I got the boots, gloves, gonna print the armor and a blaster but I need a decent brown flight suit. Any suggestions welcome.

Posted a few days ago a folding drone platform with a FreeCAD Macro so you could make it different sizes. Got a couple suggestions and requests as FreeCAD might be a little steep for beginners. So the more I thought about it the more it made sense to convert my FreeCAD macro over to OpenSCAD and made it fully parametric. So long story short that's what I did.

Enter in the width, depth, and thickness of your plate and it will generate you everything including sliding locks on the edges. Hinges use standard pieces of filament so no extra hardware required. The design works even better then the original because the slid locks on the outer edges are more secure and still tuck out of the way for folding, adding no extra thickness.

The MakerWorld Parametric Model Maker Link

The Original Model on MakerWorld

Honestly had a good time figuring out OpenSCAD and now trying to figure out what else I can design using it.

Well through some weird happenstance I ended up with 2 sets and 1 extra season of The Mandalorian 4k so I'm keeping one set and selling the other set and extra season.

For the set: Everything is in like new condition, the artwork inside each season has not been opened. All the discs are clean as are the cases. Season ones case doesn't close well.....I don't see anything physically wrong but it just doesn't want to *click* closed like season 2 and 3 do. I don't want to mess with it and break any so just keep that in mind. All of them have the J-card around them as in the photos. Everything plays perfectly. I'm asking $100 shipped. SOLD

For the spare Season 1: Mostly same as above. Disks, case, J card, etc are all in like new condition, artwork has not been opened. Same issue with the case clicking closed. However on my old 4k player disk 1 skips/had pixelation in two of the episodes (ep 1 and 3). The other episodes and the entire disk 2 are perfect. In my newer 4K player the disk worked fine with no real issues. I don't know why or what the difference is or if there is something wrong with it but I did try cleaning the disk (already looked perfect) and it made no change. So it might work fine for you, it might not. For this reason I'm selling it for $25 shipped.

Asking for PayPal F&F but add 3% for G&S if you rather do that.

So my friend just bought a DJI Mini 3 and printed out a travel case for it (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2516787-dji-mini-3-4-5-pro-fly-more-case). He then asked me to make him a take off platform that would fold up and fit inside the case that had a little 170 x 140 x 20mm pocket up front. I'm not a designer but I play a bit and have a 3D printer, plus I like a challenge, so I set out to make him something.

30+ revisions later I have created two models which unfolded are 320 x 260 x 4mm (12.5" x 10" x 1/8") then fold down to fit into the case linked above. The model and the FreeCAD source files are free to download and do what you want with them. I have also included a parametric FreeCAD macro for creating the base of the standard model. And if you need a different size but can't figure out the FreeCAD stuff I can custom make pretty much any size in a couple minutes.

Available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3031473-drone-launching-platform-compact-folding-plate

So my friend just bought a DJI Mini 3 and printed out a travel case for it (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2516787-dji-mini-3-4-5-pro-fly-more-case). He then asked me to make him a take off platform that would fold up and fit inside the case that had a little 170 x 140 x 20mm pocket up front.

30+ revisions later I have created two models which unfolded are 320 x 260 x 4mm (12.5" x 10" x 1/8") then fold down to fit into his case. The model and the FreeCAD source files are free to download and do what you want with them. And if you need a different size but can't figure out the FreeCAD stuff I can custom make pretty much any size in a couple minutes. I've also included a FreeCAD python macro you can use to create your own in any size minus the sliding locks (which I cant figure out how to automate) but those locks are in the FreeCAD files that are provided so you can copy and paste those over. Everything is well labeled within the files also.

Available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3031473-drone-launching-platform-compact-folding-plate

EDIT: It's now fully parametric and customizable.

So my friend just bought a DJI Mini 3 and printed out a travel case for it (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2516787-dji-mini-3-4-5-pro-fly-more-case). He then asked me to make him a take off platform that would fold up and fit inside the case that had a little 170 x 140 x 20mm pocket up front. I'm not a designer but I play a bit and have a 3D printer, plus I like a challenge, so I set out to make him something.

30+ revisions later I have created two models which unfolded are 320 x 260 x 4mm (12.5" x 10" x 1/8") then fold down to fit into his case. The model and the FreeCAD source files are free to download and do what you want with them. I have also included a parameteric FreeCAD macro for creating the base of the standard model. And if you need a different size but can't figure out the FreeCAD stuff I can custom make pretty much any size in a couple minutes.

Available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3031473-drone-launching-platform-compact-folding-plate

Started researching and collecting models for my Madalorian costume for Halloween and found everything I liked except grav charges. Most didn't seem accurate and those that did had electronics that were a bit complicated. So I set out to find a cheaper light-up component and redesign the grav charge to use it. Long story short I found the perfect light for the job: Activates when a magnet is removed from the back, blinks for ten seconds, then the leds rotate around. Plus if you leave it on it auto turns off after 2 minutes. I recreated the grav charge to hold this light and then created the holster to have magnets on the back to both hold the charges and activate the light.

I did a couple test prints and they came out great. Did both silver ABS and black PLA and will end up going with all ABS and a coat of some silver Rustoleum. Model doesn't need supports and everything should be friction fit but I plan on using a little super glue.

Model is on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3012924-mandalorian-grav-charge-with-lightup-mod-breach

I have a DS920+, before that I had a DS415+, and before that a DS2?? something. I try to proactively upgraded ever 4 - 5 years both to prevent down time and also to sell the old unit while it still has some residual value. But I've been holding out for the RS422+ replacement. Currently I have 3x 16Tb WD Gold drives in Raid 5 (only 11Tb used...I've done a lot of housekeeping), 2x 480 M.2 for cache, Plex server, and a container running PiHole. But I do use OneDrive cloud backup and both Drive and Photos from my cell phone.

Saw the new RS826+ released on the Australian site ( https://www.synology.com/en-au/products/RS826+ ) but to say the specs are lack luster would be a understatement. 4x 1Gb drives, no default M.2 slots. Add on card for M.2 + 10Gb is $230 on top of whatever it will cost ($1k?) and it's still using the 1500B which seems crazy.

I think it might be time to move on but DSM just works and all the add on apps I've used worked great too. Very long story short I work in IT and while I could roll my own system I don't want to......I don't want to tinker at all. Which is why I've stuck to Synology, everything works. And I could just move my hard drives into a new enclosure and keep chugging.

I've been heavily looking into QNap as UGreen and Asustor both don't look as polished. I'm leaning twords a TS-464eU-8G. It checks all the boxes except 10Gb network but it does have dual 2.5Gb and I can use link aggregation so if something is using the full 2.5 on one the other is available. It has M.2 slots for cache. It's a short depth rack mount so it will fit easily in my wall mount rack.

So the question is on the software. Is it as easy as DSM? Does there cloud sync work the same? Containers? DS File equivalent? Photos? Anything thats worse or even unusable?

I would really like to build the Halo Energy sword located here: https://learn.adafruit.com/halo-energy-sword-rp2040 but the mini skinny neopixels are constantly out of stock in the 4 meter length. From what I can tell they take that and cut them in half using 2 meters per blade. Is that correct? If so is there any reason I couldn't just buy 4x 1 meter pieces and solder two pairs together to make 2x 2 meter pieces?

This has been a idea in my head since I first started printing ABS on my X1C over a year ago and I really got motivated when I started doing ASA projects on my H2C. Now I'm finally happy to share it with the world.

Introducing the Bambu Automatic Fume Extractor. This project aims to reduce the amount of harmful gas given off during the printing of materials such as ABS, ASA, or any other material that may off gas potentially dangerous material. There are multiple parts to this project all working together from a printed out filter box with a active carbon filter through a ESP32 that connects to your Bambu cloud account to get read only information about printer status.

As a warning this is a fairly involved project. In automatic mode it monitors the status of one or two printers and when it sees printing it starts up its fans at minimum speed (10%) to keep a negative pressure on the chamber. As it does so any fumes are pulled through the active carbon filter instead of escaping out the edges of the door and other crevices on your printer. Since it's monitoring the printer it also watches for increases in the exhaust fan and if it sees that it speeds up the fans to match. So when printing PLA/PETG it will actively ramp it's own fans up and down to match the printers. (Note: When your printer is not exhausting the flaps are closed but they are not air tight. So this system takes advantage of that fact and pulls air through anyway, just enough so gas doesn't leak out on it's own.)

What if Bambu locks out the cloud accounts in the future or you want to use this on a non-Bambu printer? In those cases I've added in a manual mode so the ESP32 is always looking for voltage on one of it's inputs. You can use a simple potentiometer fed into a input off of the ESP32's 3.3v and when the input sees anything above 0.3v (about 10%) it goes into manual mode. From that point on the fans will ramp up directly in proportion to the potentiometer. For ABS/ASA your exhaust fan is off so you can leave it at minimum to continue to filter the air. Then turning the potentiometer back to 0 turns off the fans and returns to automatic mode.

• The model is available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2954045-bambu-automatic-fume-extractor-active-carbon
• The code, which is being release as GPLv3 so anyone is free to copy or modify it, along with the full bill of materials and instructions with photos are on GitHub: https://github.com/ADYDesigns/BambuAFE

Also if you decide you don't want to use my box you can use any filter box that has a PWM fan on it. Use any ESP32 along with my code and control whatever fan inside whatever filter you want. You can even use it as a inline vent fan if you are venting outside which still will serve the purpose of putting a negative pressure on the chamber while printing ASA/ABS which otherwise wouldn't happen. And it will be automatic so you don't have to remember to turn on the fan each time.

Huge thanks to Made.In.Meidling who's exhaust system helped inspire my design and allowed me to use the threaded connections from his design in my own to simplify getting the exhaust from your printer over to this.

Edit: Per suggestions here I have also added a scaled down version just for inline venting for those that already have venting outside so you can automate that process. A print profile has been added for that and otherwise the same programming/instructions will work.

I've posted bits and pieces of this over the last couple months. Finally getting close to building a new printer table and planning a set of 14" wide sliding drawers. Designed a set of Gridfinity bins for all my tools for the top slider and tool bins for the other sliders to hold all my screws / bolts / nuts. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Here is the tools collection if anyone is interested: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/24692973-bambu-maker-s-supply-tool-holder

The bins are just made with the Gridfinity add-on for FreeCad and I put up a tutorial a week or two ago if you want to create those: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1tpguwf/tutorial_creating_gridfinity_bins_for_your_parts/ There are too many combinations for me to post them all and I only made them for the pieces I personally have. But if you really want Gridfinity organization I highly recommend playing with that add-on for FreeCAD and you can easily make regular bins, parts bins, grids, etc exactly to your specs.

Printed at 150%, about the biggest my H2C could fit, using Bambu Matte Nardo Gray, Silk+ Gold, and Matte Charcoal Black (embossed) with ironing on. Came out good. Second picture is at default size with some individual pieces. Third is a infill density print. I'm slowly redoing a room to be our 3D printing / crafting room so this is one of the things going up on the wall.

It's mostly art but if you look close you can also see how the infill underneath affects the top layer. And I just think it looks cool.

Infill Comparison: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2475527-bambu-studio-infill-comparison-display-all-22

Density Comparison: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2505831-bambu-studio-infill-density-comparison-display

I was going to post to r/vinyl but you people seem like a better audience. The model is free for anyone to download so if you have a 3D printer or know someone that does you can download it and print it yourself. Many libraries now have 3D printers that are free to use or you pay just for the filament: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2868993-record-player-coaster-holder-pioneer-pl-510a

Backstory: My sibling and their spouse have a extensive vinyl collection and a couple turntables. I try to make them something every year for birthdays or Christmas and this is what I came up with for their next gift. It's a recreation of one of their turntables, a vintage Pioneer PL-510A, recreated as a coaster holder (at least as close as I could get to it). The tonearm moves, the spindle in the center is replaceable in case it snaps or if you want to print a longer one for more coasters, and the records are two parts so you can color them. They also have a cutout on the backs for standard 4" cork stickers you can get on Amazon. The platter itself is removable so if you are doling out coasters you don't have to pick up the entire assembly and so it can "spin" if you want to show it off (I may have done a couple wicka-wicka scratches with sound effects which was meet with eye rolls....). There are also feet and a block with the Pioneer logo as printable pieces that you can glue on if you choose to.

Honestly it came out better then I expected it to and figured I'd share for anyone else looking for a unique gift they can print themselves.

First off the model is free for anyone to download so if you have a 3D printer or know someone that does you can download it and print it yourself. Many libraries now have 3D printers that are free to use or you pay just for the filament: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2868993-record-player-coaster-holder-pioneer-pl-510a

So my sibling and their spouse have a extensive vinyl collection and a couple turntables. I try to make them something every year for birthdays or Christmas and this is what I came up with for their next gift. It's a recreation of one of their turntables, a vintage Pioneer PL-510A, recreated as a coaster holder (at least as close as I could get to it). The tonearm moves, the spindle in the center is replaceable in case it snaps or if you want to print a longer one for more coasters, and the records are two parts so you can color them. They also have a cutout on the backs for standard 4" cork stickers you can get on Amazon. The platter itself is removable so if you are doling out coasters you don't have to pick up the entire assembly and so it can "spin" if you want to show it off (I may have done a couple wicka-wicka scratches with sound effects which was meet with eye rolls....). There are also feet and a block with the Pioneer logo as printable pieces that you can glue on if you choose to.

Honestly it came out better then I expected it to and figured I'd share for anyone else looking for a unique gift they can print themselves.