Image 1 — Guided rappel setup?
Image 2 — Guided rappel setup?
Image 3 — Guided rappel setup?
Image 4 — Guided rappel setup?

Guided rappel setup?

Yo! Beginner here w a decade of climbing experience. There's a local canyon that has some nasty stagnant water I can boulder around. I'm playing with the idea of setting up a guided rappel to bypass it.

Is this a normal setup?

Voodoo hitch, tension it down, then tie off the end so it doesn't de-tension by accident. I used an MMO to get the end snug enough to prevent any major jolts. Kept it loose-dressed for the photo so you can see what's going on.

The only thing I'm a little leary of is passing the biner for the MMO through the tensioned line's end biner. Might pinch the rope. Not sure where the standard tie off point is for the end (my MMO) because everything is under tension.I suppose I could set up another anchor.

Or is there another system that's better? I saw someone using prussiks to build a 3:1 system, but I'd rather not rely on prussiks to hold someone up if it can be avoided.

u/BAMred — 2 days ago

What's app can't verify

Can't verify my number. Any ideas? Phone call and text, neither work.

u/BAMred — 29 days ago

Interesting issue with adding money to live vs paper account

I ran into an interesting issue with a live trading bot vs a paper account that are supposed to mirror each other.

The paper account grew more than the live account today, even though they are running the same strategies. At first I thought something was off with the trades, but after digging through the ledgers it looks like the difference came from how I added money to the live account but not the paper account.

Basically, I have multiple strategy sleeves. Say two sleeves start 50/50, then one outperforms and it becomes 80/20. If I then add the same dollar amount to each sleeve, like +50 and +50, it becomes 130/70, or 65/35. So I did not preserve the 80/20 weighting. I unintentionally pulled the live account back toward equal weighting.

In my case, the paper account stayed more exposed to the winners, while the live account got leveled out a bit when I added cash. Then the winning positions kept running, so paper outperformed live proportionally.

This is a side project, not my nest egg, so I am okay with being more aggressive. But I am curious how other people handle adding additional money across multiple strategies.

Do you add equally across strategies/sleeves to rebalance things?

Do you add proportionally based on current sleeve size so the winners keep running?

Or do you use some kind of hybrid where you reward winners but do not let them completely dominate?

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u/BAMred — 1 month ago

How to repair this edge?

How do I repair this edge where it's coming off? Can I use joint compound and then paint?

There's a metal edge. I don't want it to just crumble off again.

u/BAMred — 2 months ago

Partners in Los Angeles?

Hey, I have lots of climbing experience (10+ yrs including trad) and just a little canyoneering experience (20 years ago 4 canyons or so). I'm looking to get into canyoneering and looking for partner(s) / group. Any meetups in Los Angeles? I'm looking mainly for mid-week day trips in the San Gabriels. Does anything like this exist?

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u/BAMred — 2 months ago

Usage not displaying correctly?

I'm not sure if i'm using this correctly, but family link isn't displaying the app usage. clearly he's using the chromebook because you can see only 1h 49m left on the device with a limit of 2hrs. yet it says 0min used. Why is this? why can't i see what apps are being used (chrome web browser) and the sites that are being visited?

in fact, every date shows 0 min for the app history, even when all the time is used up.

https://preview.redd.it/n1cctb10b81h1.png?width=981&format=png&auto=webp&s=ab6aa356804001bc2a4c6c164830032a364fbc60

https://preview.redd.it/7uf4val4b81h1.png?width=977&format=png&auto=webp&s=b8ca22a59839fcc03c4f975d6ba48e1fbb7dd996

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u/BAMred — 2 months ago
▲ 2 r/tax

Is obtaining tax trader status worth it? Imagine I qualify for it through my trading. I see the argument for eliminating wash sale rules. That simplifies Your tax returns andallows you to continue to trade through the entire year rather than changing your holdings in December.

I also see that there is a benefit to being able to deduct all your losses against your regular income should you have a large loss. But is this really helpful? There's a time value of money component. But if you, say, lose $100k and write it off against your income of $200k to minimize taxes for that year. And then you make back that $100k the following year. Now you'll have $300k in taxable incomes that may be taxed at a higher rate.

Alternatively, say you carried forward the loss of $100k into the following year. Well, the first year you would have $200,000 of income, and the second year you would also have $200,000 income. In this case, the net income is the same as the previous case, but you are tax brackets will be lower for the second year.

Is it all just a wash at the end of the day? Those scenarios are essentially equal and the only difference is the time value of money and deferring your taxes to later time?

Assumptions -- you have the cash flow to pay for the taxes, and all the trading income is short-term capital gains.

Thoughts? Am I missing something here?

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u/BAMred — 2 months ago