[Routine Help] Hive mind: What should I add next?
Hello glorious humans! I need your advice!
I'm 49, have Erythematotelangiectatic Rosacea (Type 1), KP, am prone to dermatitis, am in peri, and I'm using Rx actives as well as OTC stuff.
I'd love a review of my routine, and recommendation on which of the paired actives I should add next. Or should I stay with the current routine? I get antsy not changing things around, but that might be the way to go...
Because my skin is so reactive, I'm not able to use blended products (except for those from Holy Snail, which I hope revives some day, pretty please???).
Major culprits for me are soy, wheat (Azelaic Acid, anyone? grrr), Xanthan, any kind of paraben, any kind of gum, plus dextrin, dextrase, dextrose, and maltodextrin. All of these make my skin blister (acute contact dermatitis).
I also avoid any kind of tocopherol as it always gives me cystic acne. My derm says that's probably because the tocopherols are cut with soy oil in the manufacturing process.
My AM routine:
- 2% Salicylic acid, let sit for 2 minutes while I brush my teeth.
- 60s wash with Vista Prep (contact lens soap that is clean rinsing).
- 4 drops 100% Hyaluronic Acid to face, neck, and decolletage that has been blotted 3x.
- 2 drops 100% Matrixyl 3000, spread over face, neck, decolletage.
- 8 drops of Cold-pressed Rosehip Seed Oil -Ph balancing, fights redness & melasma while hydrating & healing the moisture barrier. It also regulates sebum, and provides everything (except C) that skin needs to heal.
- I add *either*:
- 2 drops of 5% Pycnogenol: Anti-oxidant, anti-redness, deeply soothing, anti-aging, anti-melasma. Pyc transforms used Vitamin C that has oxidized into useable Vitamin C. Turns my Rosacea flares off 10 minutes after application.
- 2 drops of 12% Ascorbyl Glucoside: Stable Vitamin C that becomes active in the skin, does not have the burn or the combative properties of l-ascorbic acid. Pro-collagen, anti-melasma, anti-oxidant.
- This combo is applied to my face, neck, and arms (for KP). Because the serums have a glycerine base, they combine with the rosehip seed oil nicely. RSO is low in Vitamin C, but has everything else the skin needs to heal, so this combo has been life saving for me.
- I add *either*:
- Vanicream (in the tub- so the cream version, not the lotion). 1-3 layers patted on, depending on how fast my skin absorbs it.
- Vaseline around eyes, mouth, apples of cheeks (where my skin gets dry, basically).
- Breakfast, then add Sunblock & pressed powder.
- Also, oral supplements: 600mg HA w/ 32 oz water in 1st half of day, 30g hydrolized collagen, 1000mg Polypodium Leucotomos Extract (protects against sun damage), and the usuals: C,D3,K,B12,Selenium, Iron, etc.
PM routine:
- Splash with water, pat 3x.
- 1 drop 100% HA, spread over face, because otherwise my skin screams at me for letting it dry out.
- Tretinoin .05, let sit for 60-90 minutes, depending on how long before bed I started. *I can't find any solid info on how long Tret takes to absorb- I've seen Derms say 10 minutes, 20, 30, even 60. If anyone has a good data source, I'd appreciate the link! I use this for anti-aging, as well as for it's ability to decrease immune reactions in teh skin (Rosacea, KP, dermatitis).
- 60s wash with Vista Prep.
- 4 drops 100% Hyaluronic Acid to face, neck, and decolletage that has been blotted 3x.
- 2 drops 100% Matrixyl 3000, spread over face, neck, decolletage.
- 8 drops of Cold-pressed Rosehip Seed Oil -Ph balancing, fights redness & melasma while hydrating & healing the moisture barrier.
- 2 drops 22% Nicinamide + 2% Zinc added to RSO.
- Estradiol topical, entire face, throat, and back of my hands.
- Vanicream.
- Vaseline everywhere.
As you can see, this is focused on hydrating, calming, healing, and preventing redness & melasma. My hydrating routine is sufficient that I was able to start Tret .05 daily with no problems, just a little purging, and I've peeled lightly at the tip of my nose on 2 occasions.
I'm thinking of adding the following pairs of actives, and would love advice as to which to add first. Obviously anything would be added slowly and carefully! Here are the pairings I'm thinking about:
- Beta-Glucan & Glycolic Acid 7%: BG is a hydrating anti-inflammatory anti-oxidant that heals the moisture barrier, and is possibly more effective than HA at hydrating skin. Like Tretinoin, BG moderates skin's reactivity. I would like to add GA 7% back in- I removed it to start Tret. I would swap GA 7% for 1 of the AM 2% Salicylic Acids, skip Tret that night, and work up to using GA 2x per week, then work up to using Tret in the evening routine on those 2 days. Eventually, I would like to build up to GA 12%, as it can remodel scars. I have some (moderate to minor) icepick scars on my chin, nose, and forehead.
- Copper Peptides & Bentonite Clay mask: CP is pro-collagen & pro-elastin, an anti-inflammatory that remodels scarring, and can help hide telangiectasia from Rosacea, one of my biggest cosmetic issues. The BC is the best solution I've found for them. I had to stop the BC as it was too drying while starting Tret, but I think I could add it back in now. I might add the BG as well to this pairing.
- ECGC & Red Light Therapy. I am mostly considering adding this in as both are very gentle, and it would give me something to mess with while waiting to add in the other active pairs. The ECGC is anti-oxidant, anti-aging, and regulates sebum. The Red Light unit I purchased is recommended for redness, and tightening skin (which is not a huge issue for me yet).
I keep going in circles, so I really appreciate your thoughts!