u/BoardWitty5440

Hello, I am looking to start practising Megaminx, as I have heard it's similar to 3x3 in F2L (and S2L). I have not done any timed solves yet, but I will start soon.

First off, hardware. I already have a DaYan GuHong Pro (I got it before the Pro+ was released, as well as before the YuHu V3) and I can't seem to find a good setting for it. I don't know, it's just locky at settings 1 and 2, and the rest are too tight for me.

Also, I want a more stable cube (dodecahedron) than the GuHong Pro, so I am looking at the YuHu V3 Ball-Core or the YuHu V3 DEVO (A mod by TheCubicle primarily focused on weight reduction, has coremags and semigloss, which I prefer over UV so I may get this one).

If anyone thinks I should get the GAN V2 over these, please speak up.

Anyway, what I know:

I haven't got a certain F2L/S2L face order (I know some are specific about that) other than I do white first.

What I do first is I create the white star, then either do corner-edge-pair inserting or do corner-first, then edge, depending on what I can find.

For S2L, it's pretty much the same thing, except I would randomly choose faces and complete said face's S2L based on what corner-edge pairs I can see are easiest.

I use a 4LLL method, orienting the edges first using F (Sexy) F' and F (R U' R' U') F' , and orient the corners using the upside-down, commutator trick, but I can orient the corners sometimes if it's a Sune-style case or something else that I carry over from 3x3.

For edge permutation/EP, I use (R2 U2' R2' U' R2 U2' R2') and its inverse for if the edges aren't adjacent and the J-Perm and Anti-J-Perm algs for if they are adjacent.

For corner permutation, I use the upside-down commutator, take a corner out and replace it with another, trick.

And a couple of things about technique, I don't abuse the table (that is, setting the cube on the table to turn); Instead, I hold it in my hands and brace one of the bottom-left faces with my pinky.

I have virtually no look-ahead, nor do I on any other event, so I kind of would like someone to help me with that.

I also spend most of my time locating pieces for pairs and whatnot.

Also, I can't really make the white star misaligned by a D move, with the pieces in positions relative to each other, so I can only insert star edges once at a time, really.

Finally, my turn speed without including pauses is still abhorrent and slow.

I would also really like to know what I should learn next, in terms of algorithm sets such as 2-look-last-layer, or techniques such as edge orientation (Like how people use in ZZ, not just in the last layer) and blockbuilding, kind of like Roux.

And that's it for this post. I will probably upload another post asking for tips on another puzzle.

So this is a continuation to my posting series where I try to gather as much as I can before switching to oboe from flute. I already have a post asking for tips, and general questions, here.

My question for this post is: What instrument and gear should I get?

Now, as previously stated, I live in Houston near Fleming Instruments and Repair. I also know that Bocal Majority is closeby, so I can shop there online without too much of a wait for shipping. **If you advise me to go in-person or otherwise avoid shopping online at Bocal Majority or other online shops, let me know.** Anyway, on to the instruments I've heard be recommended:

...: Yamaha YOB-441IIMT Duet+ :...

I've heard that this has a full Grenadilla body for a dark, projecting sound and a resin-lined bore so that it avoids cracking, so it should be more resilient. Remember, I live in Houston, an extremely humid and hot city, both of which make it easier for an instrument to crack, so full-Grenadilla instruments are not at the top of my list. Also, it has the extra keys I may need, so that's good.

...: Fox Renard Model 330 :...

This is one of the most-most-most popular, most-most-most-recommended instruments. It has 3 material variants, so if you do recommend this, please tell me which material. I would probably go for the Hybrid (Used to be the 335), which has a plastic resin composite upper joint and Grenadilla lower joint and bell.

...: Howarth of London Model S40/S50 VT :...

I know Howarth is a really professionally-loved brand. I put the S40 and S50 as options because they match what key systems I need, and I went with the VT (Velvet Throat) option for crack resistance.

...: Buffet Prodige BC4062 :...

This one also has the Duet+-like lining that resists cracking. It also has a full conservatory system, so that's nice.

Of course, any other models around this intermediate playing level are welcome for recommending, but keep in mind that I would like to have to buy only one oboe throughout my high-school years.

I am in high school and play the flute in my HS's Wind Ensemble. However, there are nine other flutists in said ensemble, and one oboist. So, I would like to switch to oboe because of that, and, well... Flute has kind of gotten boring, no offense to other flutists.

I will post a series of posts with one or two topics per post so I get more consistent answers. The topic question of this post is: What can I do before getting an oboe so I can be ready to play?

Basically, I want to know what I'm getting into, tricks I can do to help, and if this is an idea I should actually carry on with.

...: Questions about what I'm getting into :...

1. How will the breathing change? I already know that oboe requires a lot less breath, so much so that you have to exhale any stale air before breathing in. I also heard about this thing called "Backpressure", could someone explain that to me?
2. How will I have to care for my instrument? (other than swabbing it, cork greasing, and storage, but I would like a tiny bit about that) What I mean is, how often would I have to get it checked by a professional, and what should I have them do? I live in Houston close enough to a repair shop called Fleming. I trusted them for flute, should I trust them for oboe? And should I get anything like cigarette paper or Yamaha pad paper?
3. How do I care for my reeds? I know that you have to store them in a reed case, but should I get a ribbon, a peg or a foam-held case, and what number of reeds it can hold should I look for? Where should I get my reeds, and which ones should I get? When should I throw them out, and how should I rotate?

...: Tricks that I can do before getting an instrument :...

This is basically me asking for things like tips I could do. Things like using a straw to form an embouchure, using my flute while looking at fingering charts to get a general feel of what the fingerings would be like, etc.

And anyways, that's all. See y'all in the next post!

I'm looking for:

X-Man Tornado V2 M,

GAN 356 X or 356 XS, preferably the XS,

The Valk 2 M,

I would like the original versions for all of these cubes, meaning no special editions.

Also, for the GAN's, I'd prefer if the cubes come with their adjustment tools.

I'm especially looking for the Tornado V2.

I live in Houston, TX, USA.

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