I keep seeing damning pictures of young GAF roofs looking worn and in rough shape, mostly due to granuale loss. Are these isolated and uncommon occurrences or is it a known widespread issue? I signed with a GAF installer and am wondering if upgrading to a premium shingle like UHDZ or the AS 2 would remedy the issue.
I want to build a pergola to support a medium sized grapevine. It would be roughly 8x12 and stand on its own detached from my house. I live in an area with a frostline about 42 inches but didn't want to dig and anchor it to concrete yet because I might need to tear it up for regrading and installing a French drain later. So I want something temporary but also has potential to last 5-10 years.
My original idea was to create a foundation with some bender board and some crusher run then put a deck block on top and get some 6x6 timber and go from there. When I put my idea into Gemini it suggested a much more elaborate foundation and I just wanted confirmation it is necessary before proceeding. Gemini proposal is:
[ 6x6 Post ]
|
[ Post Anchor Bracket ]
|
[ Concrete Deck Block ]
======================================== Ground Level
[ 2" Upper Crusher Run / Sand ] <-- Leveling bed & protects foam from block
----------------------------------------
[ 2" XPS Rigid Foam (R-10) ] <-- Thermal barrier (extends 2' past block)
----------------------------------------
[ 4"-6" Lower Crusher Run ] <-- Compacted drain sub-base
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Woven Geotextile Fabric
[ Native Subsoil / Clay ] <-- Excavated 8"-10" down
In addition to this it suggested using 36" mobile home tie downs to each post to prevent any uplifting. Just looking for opinions on if this is a good design to move forward in. I live in upstate NY so it's a 4 season climate with clay soil.
Is upgrading from GAF timberline hdz to uhdz or to AS II (sbs modified) worth the extra cost? I live in a harsh 4 season climate, low but not 0 hail activity.
My roofer says they use plastic neoprene pipe boots and that seems like a good idea to upgrade but I'm not sure the best upgrade. I want something that last the life of the roof.
Please help!
Is upgrading from GAF timberline hdz to uhdz or to AS II (sbs modified) worth the extra cost? I live in a harsh 4 season climate, low but not 0 hail activity.
My roofer says they use plastic neoprene pipe boots and that seems like a good idea to upgrade but I'm not sure the best upgrade. I want something that last the life of the roof.
Please help!
Is upgrading from GAF timberline hdz to uhdz or to AS II (sbs modified) worth the extra cost? I live in a harsh 4 season climate, low but not 0 hail activity.
My roofer says they use plastic neoprene pipe boots and that seems like a good idea to upgrade but I'm not sure the best upgrade. I want something that last the life of the roof.
Please help!
This the list of shingle colors I can choose from:
https://www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-materials/residential-roofing-materials/shingles/timberline-hdz
This the color of my siding (clay):
What color shingles do you think goes best with this siding? I was thinking Birchwood or Biscayne blue but wanted to hear what peoples opinions are. Thanks in advance!
Should I get the chimney rebuilt before or after a roof replacement? Or should I see about getting rid of the chimney all together?
My company bought me Kaplan with an on demand course. Should I just focus on Kaplan's program or are there suplimental resources that are recommended.
I have a few options for roofing, I need help to pick. My roof is 35 square, steep pitch on main roof. This is a full tear down and likely a 50% redecking.
Option 1: local company been in business 29 years, good reputation. They are fast and efficient, they are also the cheapest. They won't commit to replacing all the flashing though when everyone else does. Their price does not include removing a sag in my roofline, they say they can buy won't know the cost until they get in there. I can do class 3 or 4 shingles price difference is 3k.
Option 2: larger regional company been in business 27 years. They are more expensive but the price includes replacing all the flashing and installing a full gaf system which qualifies me for a 25 year workmanship warranty and 50 year on the materials. I guess my question here is how much is a gaf golden warranty worth?
Option 3: small independent Amish contractor, business length unknown. Was recommended by my home inspector (I asked for other referrals but he wouldn't because he said he can't be confident of quality). This guy says he will reflash everything, fix the sag, and on top of that he will install a standing seam metal roof. His price is in between the two above.
I just don't know the value of the warranty vs a metal roof or do I go cheapest route? How much do you think remove a sag in a roof would cost? It sags probably 4 inches or so and bows out slightly at the top if I was looking at the siding from the side.
I'm getting nervous. Taking my test Tuesday. I read the book twice and doing Kaplan practice tests I get 88-95, just got a 90 on their mastery exam but I still feel like I'm gunna get in there and get the wildest test of stuff I didn't prepare for. Any recent test takers what did you see most of so I can reread those sections.
Have no experience gathering quotes or dealing with construction people. I know to gather multiple quotes but what should I be looking out for and where should I look for reliable reviews? Any preference for Amish, local, regional, national contractor? I'm in upstate NY in the finger lakes region.