Ello,

I spent way to long figuring out what felt right to me and I realised there was so many mixed signals out there. So Instead of just giving you the numbers I used, I'll tell you the 'feeling' that each setting is outputting into your wheel.

For reference. I have a moza r3 which is a direct drive with less torque. But imo it doesn't matter, because you should be able to use these settings and use your wheel's software to scale the 'volume' after the fact.

TL;DR — recommended settings

Wheel software

• Max rotation: 720
• Force scale: 100%
• Filters and effects: off / 0%

In game

• Centre spring scale: 1 (or lower, never higher)
• Wheel damper scale: 1 (or lower, never higher)
• Mechanical trail scale: 1.1
• Force feedback scale: 1 (±0.1 max)
• Force feedback minimum force: 0.7
• Load sensitivity: 1.1
• Road feel scale: 1
• Off-road feel scale: 0.3
• Everything else: Default

~~~

For any nerds out there...

In wheel software:

Most importantly, set your max rotation to 720. I found anything higher just stretches the FFB, it felt terrible. YMMV, i've seen others suggest 900 or 540. To mee 900 is too loose, 540 is too twitchy.

I kept all forces at 100% and disabled any filters.

In game:

Centre spring scale: leave at 1, or reduce. Never increase.
This naturally pulls the wheel straight at rest; like in real life when you're stationary and try turn the wheel and let go, it bounces back because turning actually jacks the car's weight up slightly, and that weight wants to drop back down to the lowest point, which is with the wheels pointing straight.

You might think you want this on 0, but in FH6 spring is dynamic, weakening at speed so the tires' own self-steering align torque comes through instead of being masked. I think it's worth keeping on a little. Despite all the recommendations online.

Wheel damper scale: leave at 1, or reduce. Never increase.
This essentially 'bluntens' the force feedback. How this feels in reality is more resistance to how easily your wheel moves, similar to how when you're steering in your car there's friction and weight to your wheel. The wheel doesn't flick around freely rather it smoothens out any jitter or shake.

You might think you want this on 0 for the fastest reactions, but in FH6 - like with centre spring - the damper is dynamic, easing off as the tires slip so detail comes through when you need it; a touch of it stops the wheel oscillating and gives heavier direct-drive wheels a planted feel, though too much slows your steering down and masks the oversteer and understeer you're trying to feel (low-torque wheels like the G920 and G29 often want little to none).

If you feel like your wheel is loose in the middle, I suggest using a little bit of this, rather than upping your minimum force.

Mechanical trail scale: 1.1
Some suggest up to 1.5, but I feel it removes the feeling of traction loss too much.

This scales how strongly the wheels want to follow the direction the car's actually travelling. It the feeling of the wheel trying to point where the car's going. But because it doesn't fade away when the tire starts to let go, it doesn't tell you much about your grip. So the setting scales how much of each you want: more feeling of traction or more feeling of direction. I Mechanical traillike to keep it a little lower so I can still feel lockup and understeer you'd otherwise feel building.

Force feedback scale: Leave at 1 (+/- 0.1 max)
This doesn't just turn up force feedback. Though the game says it can introduce clipping if too high, it also says it's a ratio. More = more aligning torque forces, less = more traction forces. Too high and you lose feel for traction, too low and you don't know what your car's physics are doing.

Force feedback minimum force: 0.7
AKA pneumatic trail, gives you the feeling of the tire's grip. Stiffening as it grips and flexes while you're turning, then draining as you push the front tires toward their limit. Essentially telling you when you begin to understeer or a lockup is starting.

Increasing will make the wheel feel tighter / more responsive in a straight line, but even on a g923 it will compress everything and you won't feel the dynamics as you're driving. I encourage you to try it at a lower setting for a little bit before increasing. It will feel lighter at first, but I grew to prefer this. I still might change my opinion on this

Load sensitivity: 1.1
Similar to how minimum force tells you about grip while turning and when it's running out, load sensitivity tells you about weight shifting onto and off the tires as you brake, accelerate and ride the terrain.

It tells you how much weight is currently pressing down on the tires, like when you brake, weight pitches forward and the fronts load up, so the wheel goes heavier; or the way the car's load shifts as it rides over crests, dips and bumps.

I like to feel when the weight is on my tires for trail braking, so I keep it at default or higher.

Road feel scale: 1
This is just bumps and curbs. I like to feel these.

Off-road feel scale: 0.3
This is the feeling of rocks and bumps off road. It's quite intense.
I suggest lowering it if you're desk mounted. Also if anyone reads this on a Logitech wheel, it makes your wheel SUPER loud

All other settings: Default

And here's how they all interact

(Yes, I used claude to make this pretty that's why there's em dashes)

Firstly, aligning torque has three levers pointing at it: FFB Scale up, Mechanical trail up, and Minimum force up all push toward smooth directional feel and away from raw grip information, so they compound. If limit feel goes vague, you've got three suspects, not one.

Setting	Turn UP	Turn DOWN	Trades against / overlaps
Centre spring	Stronger pull back to centre; masks the dynamic align torque from the tires; calms oscillation	Lighter centre, more tire feel through straight-ahead; too low risks oscillation	Wheel damper (does the same stabilising job); fades out anyway as speed/slip rise, ceding to the dynamic forces
Wheel damper	Heavier, slower wheel; smooths jitter and oscillation; slows reactions; masks oversteer/understeer feel	Lighter, faster-reacting wheel; more detail; too low risks oscillation	Centre spring (overlapping stabiliser — don't stack both); quietens the same limit signals that mech/pneumatic trail provide
Mechanical trail	More aligning torque — the smooth "follows the direction of travel" force; buries the grip-loss signal	More understeer/traction indication; less smooth following force	Minimum force (the two halves of aligning torque: direction vs grip); pushes the same way as FFB Scale up
FFB scale	Shifts balance toward aligning torque (directional feel)	Shifts balance toward traction information	Stacks with Mechanical trail (both → align torque); opposite pull to Minimum force
Minimum force (pneumatic trail)	Lifts the grip-signal floor — tighter, more responsive in a straight line, but compresses dynamic range so subtle dynamics flatten	Lighter overall but wider dynamic range — more nuance in grip and limit feel	Mechanical trail (mech trail masks what this is trying to show); FFB Scale (same traction-vs-align balance)
Load sensitivity	More weight-transfer / elevation / bounce fidelity (heavier under braking, lighter under accel)	Smoother, calmer, less fidelity in those medium-frequency changes	Rides on top of the cornering core; adds to total force, competing for headroom with the trail signals