r/moza

Hi,

I'm struggling with my R21, occasionally refusing to work after hitting a hard bump like for example the inside curb of Blanchimont. The issue only ever came up since Tuesday but has happened twice so far, and it has already cost me ~100 irating, which is alot since I don't get to race often (toddlers). Any idea how to fix the issues? Preferably one that doesn't involve loads of troubleshooting since my time is very limited.

It's not completely random. It seems to only occur during moments of high FFB. I can reproduce it much faster if I crank the FFB up in-game to the point that I'm clipping hard on basically every turn. With this, I am basically guaranteed to have it reproduce within 1-2 laps (usually before finishing a single lap).

So I'll be mid-turn and then the wheel will lose all FFB (permanently until I reset it) and the wheel will stop responding in-game for ~1 second. During this ~1s, the pedals still function though.

Even with the FFB strength in-game set to something reasonable (where I very rarely get any clipping), it will still occur. Just not nearly as often so it might only happen once or twice in a race (if at all; more common on the FF1600 than the MX-5). Obviously I'm not going to be playing with the FFB cranked up to be clipping all the time, but I'd like to have the FFB as high as possible (to the point where I'm just barely getting into clipping territory in the highest FFB moments of the track+car) so that I'm not leaving performance/sensitivity on the table.

Any ideas? I've tried googling it several times and the only advice I've really seen is to make sure the USB part of the wheelbase is connected to one of my mobo USB ports (rather than front of the case) which it always has been.

Edit: When this occurs, the USB disconnection sound from Windows does not play. So even though the wheel stops responding for a second, and then has no FFB once it returns (until I restart it manually), it doesn't seem to be getting disconnected from the pc's usb. Also, as mentioned, I can get it working again by manually powering off+on the wheelbase physically, but it also "fixes" if I reset the wheelbase through Moza Pit House's Wheelbase Soft Restart button.

Ordered an R9 V3, SRP2 w/ clutch, handbrake, shifter, mounting plate, CS Pro, and everything shipped in less than two weeks from California. I only had to wait for the pedals since I bought them when they came out and out of stock, so that was the only product shipped from China, and it was still less than a month to get them shipped. I see alot of people complain about ordering from the official site. But I'm just stating I had a flawless experience.

I recently picked up a Moza R3 direct drive base and I've been loving it so far. However, I've noticed something odd: LMU is the only game where my base actually heats up noticeably during longer sessions. It doesn't happen with any other title I own, so I'm guessing it's something on the settings side rather than a hardware issue.

Before I start messing around blindly, I wanted to ask the community:

What in-game FFB settings are you running for the R3 specifically? (Gain, FFB Smoothing, Understeer Effect, etc.)

Any recommended Pit House settings for LMU — FFB strength, filtering, torque limits, Soft Lock?

Has anyone else run into their base warming up more in LMU than in other sims, and if so what fixed it for you?

Wheelbase: Moza R3

Game: Le Mans Ultimate

Any settings screenshots or general advice would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I have the CRP2’s and would absolutely love to get some haptics for my pedals, I know that Moza don’t have any (yet) are there any third party haptics that will work with my CRP2’s

Hey everyone,

I've been into sim racing for a few months now with my Moza R3. I'm really enjoying it so far, and honestly, it's more than enough for me at the moment.

That said, I've seen there's a mod that lets you swap the stock wheel for a 305 mm rim.

My question is: does anyone who has tried it notice a significant loss of force feedback on the R3 after installing the larger wheel?

Thanks in advance, and see you on track!

Hello beautiful people. I need advice on which cockpit to get.

The issue is, I live in the country of Georgia and sim racing is not popular here. I have moza r5, initially I wanted playseat trophy and have budget for it, but importing will cost me the double of msrp(around 2000 gel, 750 usd). I then was thinking about nlr victory, which with importing will cost me 1600 gel(600 usd), The only rig i can buy here is thermaltake gr500 but I don't really like it and as i have read it has many issues. There are no places that sell aluminum T extrusions. Please give me some advice, i have been planning what to get past 2 months and can't make up my mind.

I recently bought a separate clutch pedal for SRP-lite pedalset and the clutch doesn't feel as smooth as the other pedals. in fact, it feels way different and stiffer than brake and throttle and it feels like the clutch also returns slower. Kinda feels like there's a piece of memory foam in between the pedal for the lack of a better explanation.

Anyone else experiences the same thing? From what I've read it should feel lighter than brake and a bit stiffer than thottle.

I’m in between the r9 and r12, has anyone had both? What are the pros and cons you can’t read on the website? Just interested in feedback