So uhh, how many cycles should I expect to get out of removing the midplate? I’ve probably done it at least 50 times, I tinker a lot. Of all the components I’d expect to fail on it, the little tab was not among them.
Half question for help half rant about trying to purchase the 7940HS+5070 pairing I wanted.
How the heck do I force the 5070 if I'm stuck with a 1st gen screen?
I can't leverage using the bios detail to lock to 5070, I get a black screen in windows at login.
Can't force it within windows via telling 11 to use it in graphics settings.
Disabling the 780M doesn't leave the laptop in a real usable state.
Using UXTU, I've forced the 780M to clock as low as 200 MHz and nothing.
I did look to see if I could utilize DSR Factors so it would create enough render load that it couldn't possibly think keeping to the 780M
The game in question is repo, it's borderline switching. I want to use 5070 and get 120 fps, but it really likes using the 780M, and leaving me with 96 fps.
SO, for the vent.
The laptop configurator SUCKS ASS.
So, if I had wanted to buy a 7040 model, which I did in April, there was no option to.
select a 5070
get a 240 W charger
get a second gen display
I ended up needing to buy the 240 w brick and 5070 separately, incurring $50 more because I got the 5070 on its own rather than paired with the laptop.
At the time I thought the 1st gen display would be fine, because I thought it only meant I couldn't use gsync. I didn't know it would lock optimus and what someone stated as nvidia image scaling, but I have a suspicion may be DSR Factors in this instance. But I don't know for certain.
If I could have, I would've gotten my laptop with a 2nd gen display instead of a 1st gen but from memory, as there is no way to look at the 7040 configurator rn as they're all sold out, there was no way to select the 2nd gen.
I even emailed FW about the lack of ability to select a 5070 with a 7040 model to check if that meant it was incompatible, but as stated in the response, no it's fine to pair them. I had also seen ppl discuss upgrading from a 7700S to a 5070.
It's just so frustrating because if the configurator had been setup better, I could've avoided some of this.
I want to like this laptop, but I really hate it rn. I know I'll be less annoyed in the morning but still. I tried gaming on this as above for about 30 min, because I wanted to get some gameplay in that wouldn't be a space heater like my pc is, but I had to shut it off, throw it on the couch, and boot up my pc.
I know it runs fine and correctly chooses the dGPU when the game is a serious rendering load but borderline situations drive me crazy.
It has me really questioning what things will be like when I eventually upgrade the gpu and possibly the mainboard.
Also kind of a shitty realization yesterday thinking about it then snooping. The 5070 has the same tdp as the 7700S, and the same of the HX 370 v. the 7940HS. So why does the 7040 configurator only allow for a 180 W rather than 240 W, does it just use less power? Nope, just another shitty ui setup, as I read that the 180 W was insufficient for ppl overall for any reasonably decent length gaming session. I had already read that it wasn't enough for running the laptop with a 5070 so I had already made sure to get a 240 W separately but yeah.
Kind of a follow up to when I posted asking about the interposer insertion/attachment cycle count. I saw the possibility of myself swapping the parts out more than the average joe and I was right.
I find myself putting the fan module in for most day to day where I don’t need a full 5060 Ti on a skinny power diet and a 780M gets the job done.
It’s also a bit fun to see just how much integrated graphics can do, coming from a laptop with an I7-7700HQ + 1060 3GB, where the iGPU, UHD 630, is leagues less capable.
I’ve also found that the fans run quieter with no dGPU since even if the dGPU module has taller fans so the same rpm may move similar air to the cpu as normal, it’s still louder.
I also sometimes manually cap the tdp in framework control to below 15 W so I can do light tasks with no fans at all, but I digress.
In the instances where I want to game on it, I swap out the module for the dGPU, but after that take it back out.
I got a FW16 back in April without a full set of 6 expansion cards because I hadn't fully decided what I was going to settle on, my previous laptop has more IO so I need to be careful with only 6 possible options. I was planning on getting on getting two more later to go with the four I ordered with the laptop.
I had wanted to look into a way to make a dual usb-a card but that's a whole can of worms that has spiraled massively and I just need a second usb-a port right now.
On the website I can see a bunch of usb-c cards available, but either option for usb-a, 2nd gen and 1st, are both unavailable. Any listing with usb-a cards are "Coming Soon". Am I SOL? Do I reach out to them directly? I checked in the diy configuration page and you can get a FW16 with 6 usb-a cards.
I recently bought a for parts sata ssd that appeareed to have a damaged connector which I can repair, but after opening it up I found a cracked flash chip.
In this market I’m unlikely to find a replacement right? Also after some digging it seems like even if I could replace it, I’d need to fiddle with its firmware to get it working?
I decided to hook it up and scan it for the heck of it and it does appear, but before running the scan it basically refused to format. I doubt it’s at all a functioning chip but might as well see.
For me it’s whenever I see condensed milk in the store, I get an urge to buy a can and try eating it straight.
TLDR: Except when power limited or undervolting it says Reliability Voltage as the performance limiter, even at idle.
Starting this evening first boot of the day I got random frame rate and computer responsiveness drop to a crawl, 2 bsod’s with different error codes. After troubleshooting making sure various components were seated correctly, I saw the entry for the 5070 in hwinfo doing things I’ve never seen before. Temps flickering intermittently to 0 deg C. Some values disappearing and then finally the whole thing dying off like I had it disabled in device manager, but even then you’d still have link speed shown.
I pulled the interposer off and cleaned pcb contacts, now it appears to be fine but also has a concerning detail.
Except when I’m power limited, the performance limiter id stated to be reliability voltage, even idling at 0.63 V. It will go up in non power limited games and still say that.
I do engage in undervolting but that’s it, dropping the gpu voltage. I genuinely cannot see how dropping it in operation could harm components. It’s not an unstable uv either, and even then a crash due to unstable clocks at specified voltages shouldn’t cause a hardware issue, just a software corruption one at worst. When I select the uv profile it says Utilization as the limiter.
I have engaged with a ton of oc’ing with the used 3080 Ti I have in my pc. I’ve reflashed the vbios with a higher power limit one, swapped the thermal pads. Had crashes trying to dial in profiles, I’ve made multiple profiles to hand tune for some games.
Never once seen it have the performance limiter be reliability voltage at idle or any intermediate load that wouldn’t have the clocks spool up all the way.