u/ClockworkSecurity

Got myself a new set recommended by the local dart-man, Cuesoul Jiho3 c1, and some L-style flights. Way more comfortable and this is the result!

So a couple of days ago i made a post about removing the TiN coating from my Phase 6 Noir's. After sitting in 3% hydrogen peroxide, along with some drain cleaner in one of the baths and a couple sittings in a oxidising fabric cleaner, they look like this. Havent tried polishing them yet, might get to that eventually, but i kinda like the dull look.

It was a slow process, had to change the peroxide 3 times when it eventually stopped reacting.

Quite happy with this little experiement. If you are going to do this, remove the points first. The chemicals did cause some minor rust on them.

Fitted a air/fuel ratio gauge onto my carbed b200k. Works. Now i just have to figure out what is a good reading.

I am trying to remove the titanium nitride coating and the all-knowing internet told me to use hydrogen peroxide. They are in a 3% solution and it seems to be working as evidenced by the bubling and the faint whisp coming off them.

Would natriumperkarbonate work better? or does anyone have any suggestions?

The darts are Phase 6 Noir's.

After yesterdays little scare, we changed the waterpump and the timimg belt while we were in there. Runs like a charm now. Still keeping an eye on engine temp, feels like there might be a air buble somewhere. Also the timing belt cover got eaten into by the new water pump and also the timing belt rubbed onto it. Just a little got removed from it. So id call this a careful success!

She spat her oil out. Was on a test drive, noticed smoke filling the cabin. Pulled over, shut the engine off and heard metallic sounds. Popped the hood and saw this.

E: Drove her home. Trying to locate where the oil came out

E: It might be the watwr pump since the gasket looks fucky ( see comments) and everything that was wet, is now dry.

Continuing this problem saga.

​

After taking the carb apart and putting it through many cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner, put some new washers/gaskets in, she turned over a couple of times and BAM! Shes running now. Starts right up every time i turn the key. So im done? Naah.

​

1. The idle is somewhat erratic. Yes i know, adjust idle, however i cant seem to get it to be the same old smooth that it was before. No matter how much i turn the idle adjust screw or play with the gas cable tension. ( I have not touched the mixture screw, not even once.)

​

2. Oil pressure reads low. Just did an oil change and it did read the normal 4.5 BAR at coldstart, 3.5 - 4 BAR and hot. Revving it up helps but it immidiately falls back down to 1 BAR. Rewired the factory oil pressure gauge too, just in case.

Sorry for my non stop posting. Hopefully someone will feel better knowing they are not alone with problems in life.

​

Anywho, i pulled the carb. Figured that since all of the ignition parts work, it has compression, the timing is fine and it gets air and fuel gets to the carb, that the fuel isnt going through the carb into the right place. Maybe a nozzle is blocked.

​

So im going to take it apart as much as i feel comfortable. I have never done this before so tips are welcome. I am going to put all of the parts through a ultrasonic cleaner, however im not sure if there are parts that cant handle the cleaner? (Obviously anything not metal wont like it)

​

Also, under the carb were 2 sets of gaskets: 2 in between the carb and the riser block and 3 between the block and the intake. Can i just make one 1mm thick one for each?

Testing the hall sensor. Resistance between signal and ground 0.7 Ohm. Voltage to hall sensor under 1V when a notch is infront and 6.7 ish volts when metal infront. 12 V is coming to sensor.

​

But i noticed that the rotators "beak" and the notched metal plate seem to be misalignet? Based on my rudementary understanding, should the beak and a bit with no notch be pointing in the same direction?

B200K, solex 34/34 z4 carb.

​

So far i have checked and tested:

-Gas, comes to the carb no problem

-Idle cutoff solenoid, actuates when 12V is given ( the needle goes sideways though?)

-All wires running from ignition coil as far as i can see

-Charged the battery

-Changed the ignition control module (again)

-Checked coil and tried another

-Changed all plugs and leads

-Changed the distributor cap and rotator

-Checked that all necessary wiring from the firewall connector are connected

​

No idea what to try next my guys.

E: It ran! For about 7 seconds. Died. Doesnt wanna do that again.

E2: Just thinking, if the hall sensor is bad, how easy is it to just yank this distributor out and put in a distributor that has the contacts?

So after last fridays fiery start with the coil, i put the old one in and spliced some new wireing. Now she starts. I do need to press in the gas pedal for her to wake up thouhg.

However now when idling, the oil pressure gauge reads 2 bars. Usually at startup it reads 4.5 ish and then comes to 3.5-4 bars after warming up. If i rev it up it climbs to 4 but immidiately drops to 2 upon not giving it gas.

Also i made a jumper between the firewall connector and the carburator connector down on the base. Is this correct? based on the old wiring yes but i have no clue what that connection even does.

E: Found the oil problem lol. The + and - leads on the sender were holding hands. Cute but wont do me any good lol

Ill add the pics in the comments since no posting vids and pics in the same post.

So, after yesterdays wire mess we fixed the necessary ones for now. Just cut the plug near the firewall and ran our own wiring.

And then we took the gearbox fillhole plug, and drilled a hole into it, thinking we could add a place for a filling hose/breather hole. Fucked it, and had to do a press fit of the 2 pieces with plumbers tape. Works. Fucked up last time and destroyed the threads in there almost completely.. So plumbers tape and a copper washer. Finished it with some putty on the outside.

Test drove it and no leaks! Got about 2.2 L in there now. But now when i press the clutch (video) a sound stops. Upon release, it continues. Drives normal, and the stick doesnt woble about like it used to.

Success?

Thankfully it did thread in somewhat snug.

Yea this might be why this bitch wont start

So today was oil change day! The old gal got a brand-spanking new filter and a fill of oil. No issues there. However the gearbox is a different story.

As you can see the magnet plug was like a damn hedgehog. All of it was real small though, no big chunks. The fluid itself looked like it has been in there for 2 years ( I assume that the old owner changed the oil when they changed the gearbox). I did 3 sweeps of the fluid with a magnet and some more confetti came out.

Ok, time to fill it up. Landed on some RedLine MTL as many people on different forums recommended it. And based on that I know i have to overfill it. Out came about 1.96L of fluid but no matter how unnervingly far we tilted the car with various dubious methods we could not get more than about 1.6 in there, the volvo manual says that its ok but i know to trust the old guys who have done this for their entire life.

Also while i was down there i changed the transmission support block. We ended up having to drill the studs off of it since it didnt come with nuts and not one of the nuts i had fitted them. So drilled it out, slapped a bolt through and to the test drive we go.

Gear changes are definetly smoother now and only 5th gear wobbles the stick a noticable amount. There is a wierd klunk-ing sound as i accelerate, wich i assume is the mod we did to the support. Ill ad a video to the comments, maybe someone will hear it.

TLDR: Changed the M47 gearbox oil, was unable to overfill it as per old folk wisdom, and now worried my 5th will grenade itself. Also wierd klunk-ing sound as the car accelerates.

She needs a transmission oil change, but i have no idea what i should use. The 1-2 change of gears is quite jumpy so maybe some stiffer oil than normal?

Also I want to stifen the suspension without loosing ride hight. What are some good stiffer coils?