r/Volvo240

It all started with this post I made to the turbobricks & Volvo 240 owners fb groups. Ive gotten a couple comments saying it could be my compressor not pumping, or a blockage in the system. It could still be a blockage in the system, but now I’m sure the compressor is cooked because when I got a different fitting that fit on the low side and attempted putting in r134a (just one burst) it started making a horrific whining noise that is now permanent whenever I have my AC turned on. Honestly every part of this project was going pretty well until this point and I had no major issues, and I was excited to not have to replace the compressor because I wasn’t expecting to spend that much money on the system. That being said, I’m wondering what the best compressor is for a drop-in replacement. I was seeing a lot of people saying the sanden 4664, but that it would take a bracket from a ‘93 for it to fit, and I also don’t see a low or high side port on the unit, so I’d have to probably spend another $100+ for a crimping tool, at least for what I’ve seen online. I usually bite the bullet on these things and just buy what I need to but after getting a big hospital bill in the mail I’m more hesitant.

Spotted this classic Volvo 244 GL with an unusual front-end accessory which I don't think came as an optional extra back in the day.

I have a 1990 245; how can I tell if it has an M46 or M47 transmission? I’ve heard that the fifth gear on the M47 can run low on oil. I’ve noticed that when I shift into fifth, it makes a lot of noise—not a bad sound, just loud and different from the other four gears; you can hear it a bit in the video. Also, the gear shift lever gets very hot to the touch (not burning hot, but like it’s been sitting in the sun). Finally, there’s sometimes a hot smell, like a burning clutch.
Is all of this connected, and could it be fixed by changing the transmission fluid and overfilling the gearbox?
Is my gearbox cooked chat ? I’ve just connected the dot recently and I’m kinda scared

Still some stuff to fix here and there, but i can finally enjoy and drive her after 3 years in the garage

anyone know how to take these out

before I go any further does anyone know what I should do?

Hi guys, I’m in a funky position here where I absolutely adore these old 240s and older Volvos in general but am not mechanically inclined in the least. I’ve had 3 245’s in my life with my most recent one being a 93 with only 79k miles. I’m at a crossroads however, I still currently have my 87 (which just recently hit 240k original miles) in my possession but it is experiencing some issues which I think are gonna be too pricey for me to responsibly pay a shop to get fixed. I’d love to see it go to a fellow enthusiast who’s able to work on the car themselves though. I’m located in North San Diego county and am considering being open to any fair offers if anyone’s interested: pic for attention

Im swapping my volvo 240 with a T5 engine and m90 gearbox. Does anyone know what connector fits on the reverse light switch? The car had an auto before, that had the switch on the gearlever. Thanks!

Sadly I need to give up on a project my wife and I were doing. This has become an emotional problem as she left.

My hope is that someone here would like to take over the project. I had the crank polished and block machined. New pistons bearings and everything to be like new. I have everything I think is needed to finish to a running state including brand new calipers. This car is a 2.4 Diesel with the manual transmission. I bored over .020 and as a result the pistons are brand new. I mainly want to get this into the right hands more than I want to sell it. I would like to recoup some money I put into machining but I don't expect a lot. If this is something that would interested you please DM. I am living in the PNW just north of Portland Or.

Had this done by https://www.cdiy.eu all the way in Lithuania to match my scotia blue on blue brick. Very pleased with it after my OG knob warped and kept unplugging my OD button. Highly recommend Commune DIY. Super communicative, good lead time, very customizable, high quality product!

I’ve made other posts about it and took your recommendations. Everything done so for, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new distributor system, new ignition switch, and new ignition control module. Pretty much the entire ignition system.

I was going done a road hit a bad patch of road and engine cut out, I have power to everything including, fuel pump, interior, lights, fuses, and ignition coil. I do have volts to the coil but it drops when I try to crank

I’m going to go take a deep dive into it today following, wiring, fuel pump, and fuses, but mainly the wiring to the icm and distributor

I’m looking for any suggestions to what I should look for and what I should doing. Thank you and please

I’ve had some issues recently with my driver door. I recently replaced the handle and shortly after, one day I went to lock my car and the driver door wouldn’t lock. The central locking system is working as it should it’s just when I turn the key in the driver door it’s stuck (unlocked) the latch does open and shut freely. I just can’t figure out why it’s stuck unlocked on only the driver door. Since I can’t turn the key in the driver door could it be the lock itself ok my door?

My turn with the dreaded headlight issue. No low beam on drivers side, low beam on passenger side and both high beams work perfectly. Changed the relay, changed the melted plug that goes to the headlight switch, tried new bulb of course. Any tips?

Not sure if it’s performing normally or if there could be contaminants in the radiator system that I need to flush thats causing that hose to not get coolant properly. Have a makeshift plug on the left side until the part comes in Monday but when I drive it around the block the line becomes quite hot very quickly. Should I do a flush of all the fluids with something to break down contaminants. Is it normal?