I can’t take this anymore
▲ 159 r/dysthymia

I can’t take this anymore

Hi, I’ve (23m) been suffering from dysthymia for over 6 years. I got officially diagnosed around 9 months ago after years of begging my family that I need help for my mental health. This illness have been slowly killing me and taking over my life.

I’ve lost all drive to do pretty much anything in my life. I’m constantly tired, worried, down, and hopeless. It has slowly but surely gotten worse over the past 6 years, like watching a car crash in slow motion but being too weak to stop it/get out of the way.

I can’t take living like this anymore. This illness has ruined my career, my personal relationship, and general outlook about the future. Nobody around me really cares, they are waiting for me to “snap out of it” and return to the me before all this. I’m extremely tired of being called lazy, unambitious, and ungrateful while I struggle to even get out of the bed every morning. I hate that I’m a burden and disappointment to my family and the people around me.

Mental health is not something that is taken seriously or perceived sympathetically in my family and immediate circle. It is mostly seen as a hinderance to success or an excuse to be lazy and being a failure. I can’t take it anymore. I’ve cried and struggled alone at night for too much. When I try to share this with the people around me, they would listen for a couple hours and then tell me that I need to “snap out of it” and “stop making excuses”. I don’t know what to do.

Is there a cure or treatment for dysthymia? If there is, please let me know how and where I can get it. I don’t think I can get through to 2027 if I don’t find something to fight this.

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 5 days ago
▲ 75 r/Pauper

Curving out: A Sligh Perspective on the Mono-red Decks of Pauper

In the history of Mono-red decks, there is perhaps no deck as influential as Sligh, which pioneered the concept of the mana curve. 

Every drop of mana left unused on your opponent’s end step represents lost mana advantage. 

Mana as a Finite Resource

Over the course of the game, each player gains access to a finite number of mana, dictated by the number of turns before a player loses and the amount of land drops each player hits. For example: Assuming that both players hit their land drop perfectly, both players would have access to a total of 10 mana by turn 4. 

The prototypical red deck contains 18-20 mountains and 40-42 lightning bolts

For the prototypical red deck, every mana left unused, for one reason or another, represents 3 damages undealt to the opponent. When both players within a match are playing the prototypical red deck, whoever resolves their 7th lightning bolt will surely be the winner. In other words:

The player who can successfully convert their 7th mana into damage wins the game.

Gassing out: Why Card Advantage Still Matters

Just like mana, each player has access to a finite number of cards over the course of the game. By turn 4, the prototypical red deck would have access to 10-11 total cards. In a perfect curve out, the player would have had access to 3 mountains and 7-8 bolts which is just about the right amount of bolts to deal 21 damage and win the game. Every additional mountain drawn within these 10-11 cards represent 1 less bolt and 3 less damage dealt to the opponent by turn 4.

Of course, games of Pauper are not just played by two players playing identical decks of mountains and lightning bolts. Red decks within the format must account for lifegain and counterspells as they aim to kill the opponent ASAP. In my personal observation, mono-red decks usually lose when they can no longer effectively convert their available mana into damage. Typically, this happens due to losing out on board, card, and early life advantages against midrange, combo, and control decks as the turn count gets higher. The weakness of the prototypical red deck is rather obvious: it does not build persistent boards or card advantages.

Besides Madness builds, Reckless Impulse remains as the premier source of mono-red’s card advantage.

Let’s say that the mono-red player has run out of cards in their hand, having failed in resolving their 7th bolt in the face of counterspells. On their 5th turn, they draw a [[reckless impulse]], immediately playing it to reveal two lightning bolts. The player promptly casts their lightning bolts, dealing 6 damages to close the game.

Using an impulse to access two bolts effectively doubles the mana cost of each bolt, turning them into [[lightning strike]]. Would you rather be the player with a lightning bolt or two lightning strikes? The answer of course depends on the stage of the game: the former is infinitely better in T1, while the latter is definitively better on T5 when the opponent has <7 life and you have 4+ mountains in play.

All this is to illustrate the idea that for the red deck, curving out can mean seeking card/board advantage if it means gaining access to more damage.

The Well-rounded Red Deck

Sligh’s concept of converting every drop of available mana into damage remains important for mono-red decks. After all, card and board advantages can only win games when they lead to the opponent’s life point being depleted to zero before yours. The weakness of the prototypical red deck is well-established, while the weakness of utilizing too many pure card advantages is in diminishing the amount of damage dealt per mana spent.

Each and every card in the red deck that aren’t bolts must lead to either damage, card advantage, or board advantage. The brewer’s discretion and playtesting is crucial here as the red deck rarely wants to draw into either too many pure card advantage cards or none at all. To note, the discussion thus far has only discussed converting cards into damage within the context of burn. Of course, creatures and artifacts can provide damage, usually through attacking and equipping.

If [[lightning bolt]] embodies the concept of converting card and mana into damage, then [[clockwork percussionist]] embodies the well-rounded red deck. For 1 mana, you get a 1/1 artifact creature with haste that becomes half of a [[reckless impulse]] upon death. This creature can:
Deal 1 immediate attack damage upon entry

  1. Deal 1 repeatable attack damage every turn it’s left on board
  2. Be an enabler for [[galvanic blast]] and [[goblin tomb-raider]], which substantially improves the damage dealt by both cards
  3. Be a chump blocker
  4. Provide card advantage upon death. This effect remains the most important part of the card as it leads to the opponent avoiding killing the percussionist, allowing the percussionist to continuously provide damage advantages through points 1-3 above. A T1 percussionist which remains alive for at least three turns is oftentimes superior to a T1 bolt to the face.

In closing, this post was made to simply share my perspective into the intricacies within constructing the deck in pauper. Although I am by no means an expert within the format, I hope that these posts can inspire some discussions and provide some insights for future new pauper bolt slingers who happen to come across these posts!

On the play, I play a great furnace…
Tapping it for 1 red, casting Goblin Tomb-Raider…
Attacking for 2, response?

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 12 days ago
▲ 274 r/Pauper

All You Need is 7 Lightning Bolts: A new Pauper player’s thoughts on Mono-red

The ideal mono-red deck contains 18-20 mountains and 40-42 Lightning Bolts.

Ever since I watched Rhystic Studies’ YouTube video on Red Deck Wins, I became fascinated by the red deck. Thus, it became my deck of choice as I jump into pauper. In this post, I would like to share my thoughts on the mono-red decks of 60-card constructed through the lens of a new pauper player.

Mono red decks generally have 1 goal: deal 20 damages ASAP. No other cards embody this philosophy better than the humble [[lightning bolt]]. The prototypical red deck plays only mountains and lightning bolts. The ideal game for this mono-red player looks like this:

T1: Mountain, bolt (3 cumulative damage)
T2: Mountain, bolt, bolt (9 cumulative damage)
T3: Mountain, bolt, bolt, bolt (18 cumulative damage)
T4: bolt, GG (21 cumulative damage)

Of course, this isn’t what most mono-red games in pauper look like. After all, the opponent can counter your bolts, you may get flooded/screwed, and you can’t play 40 lightning bolts (although, you can play 16 copies by maxing out lightning bolts, [[Chain lightning]], [[Rift Bolt]], and [[Lava spike]]). Thus, mono-red decks in pauper have to be constructed differently. We are going to look at the two big red decks of pauper: Mono-red madness (redness) and Mono-red Rally.

Mono-red madness:

In mono-red madness, you gain access to a unique copy of the bolt: [[fiery temper]]. If you discard it, it can be cast as a bolt. Combined with rummage cards (draw 2, discard 1), you can continuously refill your hand whilst dealing damage to the opponent. Let’s compare this to casting outright bolts:

Madness: [[Grab the prize]], discard and cast fiery temper (5 damage, 3 mana, net 0 cards)
Bolts only: cast 3 Lightning bolts (9 damage, 3 mana, net -3 cards)

Relative to the prototypical red deck, mono-red madness essentially trades 4 damage for a +3 in card advantage. Ask yourself this: Would you play a card that says <0 mana cost, discard two cards from your hand: deal 4 damage to target creature or opponent>? You may recognize the similarity with [[fireblast]] which is sometimes played at 1-2 copies to close out games. Similarly, this hypothetical card would ONLY be played when the opponent is at 4 life as the card disadvantage is too massive otherwise.

In its core engine, Madness improves upon the prototypical red deck by solving card disadvantage. Although [[guttersnipe]], and [[Kessig flamebreather]] also play VERY important roles in mono-red madness, they would function just the same if slotted into the prototypical red deck.

All this make may make it seem like mono-red madness is a strict improvement over the prototypical red deck. However, there are ONLY 4 total copies of fiery temper in the format. If fiery temper is not on hand, casting a rummage spell simply becomes a “pay 2 mana and discard a card, draw two cards and deal two damage” at best. This is a much worse proposition than the previous comparison.

Of course, mono-red madness also have the infamous [[sneaky snacker]] and [[lava dart]] to supplement its strategy while guttersnipes and flamebreather amplify the damage dealt from rummaging, flashbacks, and madness triggers.

As initially presented, the prototypical all-bolts mono-red deck can win in T4 unanswered. Given the following scenario, which player would you rather be?

Both players have 4 mountains in play
Player 1’s hand: Guttersnipe, grab the prize, fiery temper, sneaky snacker
Player 2’s hand: 4 Lightning bolts

The answer of course depends on the remaining amount of life your opponent has. If they have at less than 13 life left, there is a case to be made that the player with 4 bolts are in the better position, despite tapping out and going -4. The prototypical red player should thus focus on getting the opponent’s life as low as possible by turn 3. This brings us to the other most prominent mono-red deck in pauper currently:

Mono-red Rally

To me, mono-red rally embodies the philosophy behind Red Deck Wins better than madness. The ideal first two turns of rally may roughly look like:

T1: [[Great Furnace]], [[Goblin Tomb-raider]] attacks (2 cumulative damage)
T2: Mountain, [[Burnt-Tree Emissary]], [[Rally at the hornburg]] attack (8 cumulative damage]]
T3: [[Goblin bushwacker]] kicked, attack (20 cumulative damage GG)

Of course, this is the ideal UNINTERACTED scenario with an opening hand and draws from magical christmasland. An ideal game of mono-red rally actually outspeeds a deck with 40 bolts. The trade-off here is clear as the prototypical red deck is (1) more consistent and (2) uninteractable outside of counterspells.

Since the main advantage of rally is speed, your opening hand is a lot more sensitive to less-than-ideal draws. Every mulligan that a red deck does is akin to losing 3 damage to face. Unlike a control deck which can afford to take its time to stabilize and establish their win condition, the red deck needs every point of damage they can get in the early game.

The more robust your deck’s opening hand is, the more likely it is that your red deck can kill your opponent before they can kill you. In the prototypical red deck with 40 bolts, the only bad draw is your 4th mountain. Meanwhile, not opening a burning-tree emissary, good threats, and haste enablers, the red rally deck cannot perform very well. Every mulligan you take could’ve represented 3 extra damage.

Closing

This post is not meant for arguing that mono-red madness or mono-red rally are bad by any means. They are both amazing decks that have earned their spot in the meta. The discussion in this post is very much simplified but is done so to simply explore the idea of playing more bolts.

In the future, I would love to further discuss the mono-red decks of pauper through the lens of the original Red Deck: Sligh. This post is simply meant for fostering healthy discussion, sharing my ideas, and hopefully inspire a budding pauper player to pick up a red deck and brew their own take on it.

All You Need is 7 Lightning Bolts to win the game.
Play more Lightning Bolts.
Play more Chain Lightnings.
Play more Rift Bolts.
Play more Lava Spikes.
Play more Galvanic blasts.

… I tap one mountain and cast lightning bolt, response?

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 13 days ago
▲ 92 r/Pauper

Evaluating Mono-Red’s Common Two-Drops: Explosiveness, Resilience, and Reach

I’m relatively new to pauper and mono-red decks have been a personal favorite in magic’s constructed formats. In particular, this discussion stemmed from my attempt to build a pauper deck inspired by both the original sligh mono-red deck and the infamous ramunap red. I have been thinking about how the different two-drops in Mono-Red shape the rest of the deck in pauper.

The cards I’ve chosen (with one exception) to discuss typically function as a core piece within the various pauper mono red strategies and all reward casting cheap spells or developing an aggressive board. There are two main axes of consideration: explosiveness and resilience. The latter of which particular considers that pauper is both a lava-dart and lighting bolt format.

Kessig Flamebreather
Flamebreather offers the most reliable reach because its damage ignores blockers and does not require attacking. The 1/3 body is also relatively resilient, being very vulnerable to bolts. However, the card is fairly slow: it needs several subsequent spells before the initial two-mana investment becomes worthwhile. Flamebreather functions best when dropped in T3 onwards with a noncreature spell on hand. This card forms the core of burn strategies, both classic and madness.

Kiln Fiend
Kiln Fiend has by far the highest ceiling and can turn a few cheap spells into a lethal combat step almost immediately, forming the core of the older Blitz strategy. The downside is that it is by far the most fragile and heavily dependent on drawing the right mixture of threats and spells. It’s a glass cannon which can be hard countered by chump blockers and most removal spells, including two lava darts and non-metalcraft galvanic blasts.

Goblin Bushwhacker (kicked)
Bushwhacker is technically a one-drop, but functionally competes for the two-mana slot. It provides immediate damage and is the core of rally decks. Notably, the bushwhacker itself is fragile but can’t be effectively hampered by removal spells due to it’s main value being the kicked ETB pump. Arguably, bushwhacker trades some of kiln fiend’s explosiveness for having less hard counters. Bushwhacker also requires more set-up than the previous two cards to be effective, working best with burnt-tree emissary or an already wide board.

Dwarven Forge-Chanter
Forge-Chanter is what inspired this discussion. To me the card provides the greatest degree of resilience but it doesn’t see much play if at all. It sits between these extremes: less explosive than Kiln Fiend, less inevitable than Flamebreather, and less immediate than Bushwhacker. In exchange, it has a resilient 1/3 body, grows from every noncreature spell, and can convert excess bolts into additional power and toughness, allowing it to function as both an early attacker and a scalable threat without requiring the deck to go completely all-in. Notably, prowess functions really well into both instant/sorcery and artifact focused strategies. Furthermore, it can dodge a bolt by activating prowess once and kill a tolarian terror by triggering prowess once using a lightning bolt on the terror.

To me, forge-chanter seems like a really strong option, comparable to the remaining options. It’s resilience makes it especially notable, being able to play a role closer to that of Hazoret in the bygone days of ramunap red. Why does it see so much less play than the other options?

I was hoping that more experienced players can give me some more insight on card evaluation here, thanks!

[[Kessig flamebreather]] [[kiln fiend]] [[goblin bushwacker]] [[dwarven forge-chanter]] [[Hazoret the Fervent]]

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 16 days ago
▲ 119 r/mtg

The Psychology of Salt: Commander vs. Constructed

I recently got into my local Pauper scene as a commander player brand new to the 60-card constructed formats. I did better than I thought I would as somebody brand new to the format, but I got an interesting perspective on its social aspect. What stood out most was that nobody got salty. The social interactions within the scene, whether during or after the games, were a lot more pleasant than the ones I’ve had in commander. Many commander games typically end with at least one player feeling bad or getting upset about certain cards, decks, or play patterns.

To be frank, I really enjoyed the atmosphere and will probably play more 60-card constructed because of it. I’m curious what it is about the format’s mechanics or psychological factor causes this divide in social experience between the two formats, especially when Commander is so often presented as the social format.

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 19 days ago

What Magic accessories did people use in the ’90s and early 2000s?

I understand this is a weirdly specific question, but what sleeves, deck boxes, dice, counters, and other accessories were common in Magic’s early days through the early 2000s? I’m especially curious about popular brands, colors, styles, and trends, before modern accessories I’m familiar with (UG boulders, dragon shield, gamegenic etc) became standard.

I wasn’t around back then, but I’m recreating my uncle’s old Magic deck as a nostalgic gift and want the overall setup to feel at least semi-accurate for the era. Personal anecdotes, references articles, and hopefully even reference pics/videos would be greatly appreciated!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 26 days ago
▲ 7 r/mtg

Do You Play Commander, 60-Card Constructed, or Both?

I’ve mainly been a Commander player, but I’m starting to get into Pauper, and it made me curious how people feel about Commander versus 60-card constructed. With a lot more attention being put on commander by the larger community and WOTC nowadays, I’m interested in knowing the player base split!

Do you only have an interest in one, or do both appeal to you? I’d especially like to hear what you enjoy or dislike about your chosen format(s), and what attracts you to or puts you off the different formats!

View Poll

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 29 days ago
▲ 11 r/Pauper

RDW: would love some feedback on my first brew!

I’m looking for blunt feedback before buying the remaining cards and taking this list to an LGS event:
https://moxfield.com/decks/1Dh2M-qkn0qMfffdLDBoCQ

The deck is inspired by RDW and madness/rally builds! T1 is similar to Rally but the deck switches the standard rally package for straight burn (bolt, spike, etc) to hedge against deck that can sweep the board easily. [[Demand answers]] are inspired by madness decks along with lava darts and fiery temper. The other discard outlet is the blood tokens off epicure. The sideboard is very budget hence the exclusion of blasts since the main deck itself already reaches €65+.

I know Rally and Madness are more established, but I’d love to get some feedback before checking out my cart and bring this list to my LGS’ weekly pauper tournament!

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 5 r/Pauper

First brew: Izzet terror/burn

Commander player dipping into Pauper with my first brew: https://moxfield.com/decks/iHqjWLvW9UOlieLwWXQ9rw.

I’m trying to blend the Terror shell with a heavier burn plan, but I’d like to know if I’m just making a worse version of both. The deck idea came from terror naturally benefitting from burn dropping instants and sorceries into the graveyard, while burn can benefit from blue counterspells against lifegain. The sideboard is mostly still filled with placeholder cards currently.

Looking for general feedback and tips! I’m looking to play in LGS where it’s somewhat competitive!

u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 26 r/Pauper

How competitive is pauper at your LGS?

As a primarily commander player, I’m very used to playing with and against unoptimized decks either for fun, bracket, or money reasons. Coming into pauper, I’m wondering how optimized the average deck I will run to. Knowing that this is a competitive format, I understand that the decks would be a lot more optimized compared to commander.

As I’m currently buying my first pauper cards, I see that some cards are more optimized and therefore more expensive than others and I’m wondering whether these going for the cheaper alternative can make for a really large divide between my deck and the other LGS decks’ typical power level?

For example, replacing [[kessig flamebreather]] with [[thermo-alchemist]] and replacing [[highway robbery]] with [[thrill of possibility]]

I understand that pauper is already a budget constructed format but I’m just looking to spend less if I can, thanks!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 6 r/Pauper

New to the format - deck suggestions?

Hi, I’m primarily a commander player looking to get into the format! I recently tried out a game a pauper with loaner decks and found it to be incredibly fun, it scratched that itch for a faster and less social-casual games. Now I’m looking to build my first deck and I was hoping to get some recommendations here.

My LGS is filled with more experienced (and financially invested) players so I see a lot of the general meta tier-1 decks there (wildfire, madness, terror etc). I’m looking for a deck that can play well in this tier whilst being budget-friendly (looking to spend around €60 including sideboards at most) and fun!

I really enjoyed the loaned mono-R madness but the blasts and kessig flamebreather’s prices are a bit too high for it in my country. I really enjoy playing and watching very low curve decks like Red Deck Wins so I’m hoping to find something with a similar playstyle!

Looking forward to your recommendations! Excited to join the community!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 20 r/Pauper

Getting into pauper as a commander player

Hey everyone! I’m mainly a Commander player, but I’m looking to get into paper Pauper on a budget.

I recently tried the format with a loaned Mono-Red Madness deck and really enjoyed it. I’d love some insight on what a reasonable starting budget looks like, which decks I should consider, and any general tips for someone new to the format.

Thanks!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 68 r/EDH

How much money do you spend on this hobby every month

I’m interested in getting a better sense of what “normal” spending looks like for EDH players. Between singles, sealed product, sleeves, deck boxes, and random upgrades, how much do you usually spend in an average month?

And for proxy players, I’m still interested in knowing how much you tend to spend! I know that the prices can look different depending on if you own your own printer or order proxies online and the quality of your own proxies, so I’d also be interested in looking at the people’s spending even for proxies!

What are your best hacks for keeping EDH spending under control? I’d love to hear what actually works for you!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 60 r/EDH

This game is so addicting

And no, I’m not just talking about cracking packs.

For me, deck building is the biggest thing. I finish one deck, play it a few times, and immediately start thinking about a new commander, color combo, or game plan. There is always another synergy or weird card that makes me want to brew again.

Playing is fairly addictive too because Commander is such a social game. There are always a few salty players, but most of the time I enjoy having a space to meet people without alcohol or a professional setting being involved.

Then there is buying cards. Packs have the obvious gambling appeal, but I’ve learnt to stir clear of it. Despite that, I still finding myself buying a lot of singles. Deck upgrades, sleeves, or other accessories are always super tempting every time I step foot in an LGS or opening up the online marketplace. I manage my budget carefully, but I still usually spend slightly more each month than I expected.

What part of EDH is the most addictive for you: brewing, playing, collecting, upgrading, or something else? Would love to hear others’ anecdote on their own experience!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 154 r/EDH

Is double sleeving actually worth it?

I’ve been going back and forth on whether I should double sleeve my deck. It’s my first deck that I’ve put real time and effort into, but it’s only worth around €100, so it’s not exactly a high-value set of cards.

For those of you who double sleeve, what made you decide it was worth the small extra cost and thickness? Is it something you’d recommend for any deck you care about, or do you only bother once a deck reaches a certain value?

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 1 month ago
▲ 59 r/mtg

What was classic Magic really like?

I’m a fairly new Magic player. I started around Lorwyn Eclipsed, but lately I’ve been watching a lot of YouTube videos about MTG history during older sets and blocks, things like the OG Mirrodin block, Ravnica’s release, and the lorwyn 5’s introduction.

It’s made me really curious about what the game actually felt like during those eras for people who were there at the time!

For players who were active back then, what was the vibe like? What was the hype surrounding each set in the block? How did people react as the story, mechanics, and spoilers unfolded? What were prereleases and LGS nights like? Were certain cards, products, or releases instantly exciting, hated, or misunderstood?

I’d love to hear any stories: local game store experiences, tournament scenes, trades, drama, favorite decks, cards everyone wanted, or just what the community felt like at the time!

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 2 months ago
▲ 4 r/EDH

What deck boxes do you prefer for EDH?

I’m thinking about upgrading my deck box and wanted to ask what people here prefer using for Commander decks.

I don’t really double sleeve my cards, so I mainly just need something that comfortably fits a single-sleeved EDH deck plus some tokens. I’m currently using one of those cheap €2.50 Dragon Shield Deck Shell boxes, which has been fine, but Ultimate Guard is having a sale locally on the boulders and sidewinders and I’m wondering if it’s worth grabbing something nicer.

What deck boxes do you all recommend? Are the Ultimate Guard ones worth it, or should I look at something else?

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 2 months ago
▲ 61 r/mtg

What are your best and worst MTG purchases?

I’m curious to hear people’s stories about their best and worst purchases in the hobby. This could be anything: specific cards that ended up being amazing pickups, cards you regret buying, accessories that were or weren’t worth the money, sealed product you wish you opened or wish you never touched, buying too many boosters, overpriced deck boxes, binders, playmats, sleeves, precons, singles, anything.

For me, it was definitely buying too many packs at the start! I probably sunk around €100 at the start before finally getting a commander precon because the pack opening itself were pretty addicting! Now I buy singles almost exclusively. I only open packs as a fun thing while hangout friends, not much difference with getting a glass of beer while hanging out anyway.

What purchase made you think “that was absolutely worth it,” and what purchase made you think “I should have known better”?

No judgment here! I’m mostly just looking to hear some stories from other players and collectors.

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 2 months ago
▲ 195 r/EDH

What are some less obvious deckbuilding tips you’ve learned?

I’ve been trying to level up my EDH deckbuilding beyond the obvious stuff like “run enough ramp/removal/card draw,” and I’m curious what less obvious lessons other people have picked up.
Recently I’ve been learning how important mana curve and curving out actually are. Not just in the basic “don’t make your deck too expensive” or “make sure you have the colors you need” way, but in terms of thinking carefully about when I need certain effects.

For example, I’ve started asking myself:
Which effects am I willing to play a slightly worse version of if it means I can cast them earlier? Which effects am I fine paying more mana for because they matter more in the late game? Are my cards good in the stage of the game where I’m realistically going to cast them?

That kind of thinking has helped me a lot, so I’m wondering what other deckbuilding concepts people think are underrated or less obvious.
What are some tips, heuristics, or questions you ask yourself when building or tuning EDH decks that made you noticeably better?

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 2 months ago
▲ 176 r/EDH

Favorite Commander purchases that aren’t cards?

I have some Magic budget right now, but I’m pretty happy with my deck itself, so I’m thinking about treating myself to some accessories instead. So far I’ve just been using Dragon Shield sleeves and their cheap €3 shell deck boxes, which have been perfectly fine. But I’m curious what non-card purchases people here actually felt were worth it.

What are your favorite MTG accessories? Deck boxes, binders, playmats, dice, tokens, bags, storage, life counters, anything like that.

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u/Comfortable_Buyer239 — 2 months ago