u/Common_North_5267

Crank Arm Length Rival 1

I am considering buying a bike with Rival 1 groupset which comes with a 170 crank arms.

Can I swap the crank arms for something shorter either 165 or 160, or do I need an entirely new crankset?

I've been looking at the compatibility charts, but i'm completely unfamiliar with SRAM so I'm pretty lost.

A link or part number to compatible 160/ 165 crank arms would be very appreciated.

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u/Common_North_5267 — 5 hours ago
▲ 2 r/sram

Crank Arm Length Rival 1

I am considering buying a bike with Rival 1 groupset which comes with a 170 crank arms.

Can I swap the crank arms for something shorter either 165 or 160, or do I need an entirely new crankset?
I've been looking at the compatibility charts, but i'm completely unfamilar with sram so I'm pretty lost.

reddit.com
u/Common_North_5267 — 7 days ago

What pushes you to upgrade bikes?

I got my gf a nice alu Merida Silex and rode it a few times to make sure it worked after building it up and tuning it for her.
After riding such a lightweight bike, my steel Kross Esker 4.0 is feeling heavy and slow. I upgraded the drive train in the spring from Tiagra + FSA cranks to GRX400 everything with deore hydro brakes.
It is a great bike, but I bought it primarily for bikepacking, which I find myself actually only doing 3-4 times a year. However I go riding gravel 3-4 times a week (atleast when its not winter). The esker is ±15kg, steel, alu wheelset, very relaxed geo, eyelets everywhere for bikepacking and overall a comfy and sturdy machine that can be crashed and survive - pretty close to a State 4130 I'd imagine.

https://preview.redd.it/2as7n34geg0h1.png?width=3002&format=png&auto=webp&s=200a01a4452469a38baa4911e7ea32d501915ec4

I've found myself getting a bit obsessed with one bike in particular and become really 'focused' on getting a Focus Atlas 8.8 2023 in a particular color. I know there aren't a ton out there since that model is a few years old, so I kinda want to use some tax return money to buy the bike that I'll have for the next 5+ years and I can potentially use for races - which has been a goal of mine to try and do.

https://preview.redd.it/vgd816osdg0h1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=29c40c013465793a4e586cf1abcacaf47ed540d8

I really can't explain why but I think it is just the finest looking bike, the lines and geo look good and I know it won't really make me any faster on paper, but maybe riding it will make me feel faster in my heart.

What pushes you to upgrade?
When do you know its the right time?
Do you often sell your old bikes?

How much of a leap in budget is too much?

edit - the Esker is 15kg not 20kg ;)

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u/Common_North_5267 — 12 days ago

I have recently "upgraded" from Tiagra 4700 to GRX400 levers after one of my levers malfunctioned. A friend had an extra set unused with calipers for free 😄. He had bought a bike and upgraded the drivetrain to 810 before riding.

This required a transition to hydraulic calipers.
My bike requires. post-mounted calipers, hence I had to forego installing the GRX400 flat mount calipers I already had in order to get some PM calipers. After doing my due dilligence I landed on Shimano Deore M6100 calipers. They seemed simple, cheaper than the adapters and would be compatible.

Apparently flat mount -> post mount adapters are rare and expensive, so it was cheaper to just get the M6100 deore calipers.
So my current set up is:

  • NEW M6100 deore calipers (compatible according to shimano)
  • NEW Pads
  • NEW brake hoses
  • NEW GRX400 levers.
  • The shifting is flawless.
  • OLD rotors - which worked perfect with my mechanical brakes. I can see they are maybe a little worn since I have ridden probably 2500km on them.

I have bled the system 2x using the gravity method first, then the syringe at the caliper method until no air was apparent. Both times I did NOT use a bleed block. I was just careful not to spill anything onto the disc or pads/ covered with a rag.

Current experience:

  • The levers require pulling almost to the bars before they engage.
  • The pads do not stop the wheel completely, but they do begin squeaking at the point, which again is much further than I'd like. I'd ideally want these to be VERY easy to engage, almost too easy - my old brakes were quite twitchy which I liked a lot.

At this point I've wasted 2 days, multiple trips to the bike shop for random olives/ barbs/ bleed kit road adapters, and whatever else converting to hydraulic, lots of money and headaches. At this point, I just miss the simplicity of mechanical brakes that worked perfectly fine and had that perfect bite point and were adjustable in <30 seconds.

Any advice on reducing the stroke length/ bite point would be amazingly helpful and appreciated, I'm at my wits end here.

reddit.com
u/Common_North_5267 — 20 days ago