r/sram

I bought a bike with the new SRAM Force AXS 1x13, and the drivetrain is noisy and resonates on most gears. I mostly ride in the middle gears and the harder gears. From around gear 8 onwards, the noise becomes noticeable, and it’s probably worst around gears 10–12.
I’ve tried every possible adjustment in the SRAM app, but nothing really helped. Could the B-gap be incorrectly set? It’s honestly very irritating.

I’ve also done a thorough cleaning of the drivetrain and tried both hot wax and regular chain wax, but there was no significant improvement. I’m even starting to avoid gravel because after just a few kilometres on gravel, the bike becomes noticeably louder.
Honestly, I’m really disappointed that I got caught up in the marketing hype. The brakes are also still noticeably worse than Shimano GRX in my experience.
Has anyone else experienced the same issue with Force AXS 1x13? Could an incorrectly adjusted B-gap or derailleur alignment be the cause?

https://reddit.com/link/1vrmlwr/video/52h62j1pd4kh1/player

Since this morning my derailleur won't shift gears anymore.

First I recharged the battery. Then I changed the batteries in the shifters.

Next I checked the app for updates.

I reset the derailleur (pressed the button, removed the battery, released the button).

The derailleur still refuses to shift gears and it beeps repeatedly.

It's not a connection issue between the derailleur and the shifters because the green light comes on when I press the shifter.

It hasn't fallen, no impact.

I've had this bike since 2023.

Dear SRAM team,

I hope you are doing well.

During my absence, my bike was unfortunately damaged. The rear derailleur has been scratched, and the saddle shows a smaller, less visible mark as well.

Since the bike is less than one year old, I am looking for a solution to restore its appearance.

For now, the only idea I have is a gentle sanding process followed by aluminium polishing. I am attaching a picture of the damage so you can better assess the situation.

Thank you in advance for your help.

https://preview.redd.it/g1fdlb36zvjh1.png?width=683&format=png&auto=webp&s=4cc7610aca6174605d83f559fbcbdea593925aa2

Swapping essentially new SRAM Apex hydraulic shifters to AXS without cutting the hoses. Have others gottan away without needing to bleed the brakes after (and do I actually need new olives/barbs)? Seeing mixed answers and curious what others have actually done.

I recently purchased a brand-new Canyon Grail CFR AXS with SRAM RED XPLR 1x13. From my first ride, I noticed a mildly rough/notchy drivetrain feel (especially in gears 8/9-13) that seems unusual compared with other high-end bikes I've ridden--all of which have been Specialized mountain bikes. This is my first drop-bar bike for context.

The best way I can describe it is tiny, rapid micro-bumps or slight "notchy" texture, which produces a noticeable fine vibration through the pedals/crank. It's accompanied by a soft/subtle, rapid droning sound rather than actual grinding.

It's most noticeable in approximately gears 8/9–13 (harder/smaller cogs).

Two tests I've done:

• I tried the entire 1–23 MicroAdjust range. This affected shifting quality but did not materially change the roughness/noise.
• I removed the chain from the front chainring and rotated the crank independently. The crank then seemed smooth and the rough/notchy sensation disappeared.

My shop mentioned that SRAM Flattop road chains are naturally noisier than Eagle MTB chains. I understand some drivetrain noise/texture can be normal, but I'm unsure whether the tactile notchiness/vibration I'm feeling is normal for RED XPLR.

For those familiar with RED/Force XPLR 1x13: does this sound normal, particularly in the smaller cogs, or would you suspect a setup/component issue?

During my ride today I got a message on my Garmin Edge 1050 saying ‘battery critical’ on my power meter. So I pull out my phone, pull up the SRAM app on my phone, and sure enough it also says the battery is dead. At this point the power meter also disconnects from my Garmin.

So I continue my ride, and after a few minutes the PM reconnects to my computer.

I finish my ride after about another hour, fire up the SRAM app again, and now it says the battery is good.

The cranks/power meter are only a couple months old, and this issue has been happening off and on since the beginning.

Because this has been happening off and on, I also recorded the ride on my Garmin Fenix 8 watch just to verify it’s not a problem with my Garmin Edge. The dropouts and reconnects match exactly on both devices, so whatever this issue is it’s definitely the power meter.

I guess it could be the battery, but this battery isn’t very old, and it would be strange given that it started working again after a few minutes, and post ride the SRAM app now said the battery is good. Also note, not a childproof battery with the coating. Could be the battery contacts, but they seem good. This isn’t even the original battery, because I replaced it when this first started a couple weeks after I got the cranks/PM.

Lastly, I’m using ANT+, so it shouldn’t be a BT issue.

Before I contact SRAM, I just wanted to see if anyone else has had similar issues.

Hi All, I am looking to buy a gravel with the new 13 speed sram force XPLR. can I put on the gravel bike my road wheels with sram force but 12 speed? Obviously I guess I will have to do some adjustments in the levers?

Hey I just got a new E1 FD and trying to pair it to my D2 RD. I get the RD blinking, but when I hold down the button on the FD the light flashes rapidly for a second and then goes dark. The D2 shifters are also now no longer visible in the AXS app, and the FD doesn't show there either. I've pulled all the batteries, quit and relaunched the app, turned off Bluetooth on the phone. What else can I do?

I was set to ride tomorrow and foolishly started this process the night before and now I have no ride. Can re-pair the D2 FD?

Hello - my brother has a bike with the latest SRAM force E1 groupset. He’s become obsessed with switching to 1x13 XPLR (I couldn’t convince him otherwise lol) my question is…. Will it be as simple as buying the XPLR cassette, derailleur and chainring? His bike does have UDH fyi….. and second question can he keep the same cranks?

Hi everyone,
Since yesterday I’ve had an issue with the front derailleur on my SRAM Rival AXS drivetrain while riding.
The problem: The “left and right shift lever simultaneously” button combination no longer triggers the front derailleur.
What works:
The front derailleur is connected, charged, and shows as active in the app

I can shift it up and down directly at the derailleur itself

If I change the assignment, I can also operate the front derailleur via the left or right lever individually

The combo action “left + right simultaneously” works perfectly when I assign it to a different function (e.g., rear shift up/down)

What doesn’t work: Only when I assign this exact combination (left + right simultaneously) to the front derailleur does nothing happen.
What I’ve already tried:
Completely unpaired and re-paired the system

All components are on the latest firmware

I don’t understand why the combination works fine for other functions but specifically doesn’t trigger the front derailleur. Has anyone else run into the same issue? What could be causing this, and what else can I try?

Hi all!

I'm looking for sram red e1 crankarms and of course I'm confused!

Arms length 160mm the spindle is dub sl, correct?

Why do some sites label it 'black' and all the photos, even in sram's official site, show black of a color spindle? Is there a simple dub version and a dub sl version?

Another question is about 'assy' mark.

What is that?

Thank you!