r/sram

Hi there,

I’ve got myself a sram wide crankset. Do I need to add spacers for my XDR cassette to compensate for anything or can I just run it as normal?

I went with a 48/35 SRAM chain set with a 10-30 cassette, as the ratios matched up with what I had previously ridden on the hard end (53/39 and 11-30 cassette). I found it quite off and not enough big ring resistance.

Next size up is a 50/37 with a 10-33, but I fear that won’t be hard enough either just with how disappointing the 48/35 is.

I get close to 4w/kg when at race weight, but currently at 3.5. Any thoughts out there if I should just jump to the 52/39 with 10-36? I’d still get the climbing gear but have my bases covered on the high end. Thoughts? Thanks!

To cut long story short:

Sram Force E1

48/35 in the front

10/33 in the back

Chain is hot waxed with silca.

Front derailleur setup with sram tool and aligned to sit in the line as per manual. Both front/back changing gears smoothly without any issues, played with micro adjustments on every cog to make it "flawless".

"Loudness" of drivetrain is absolutely acceptable and judging by my experience it's what's to be expected.

Now, the only issue which grinds my gears (pun intended):

On 48-14 and 48-13 it's much louder when on the road, cannot replicate it on the stand to catch what's the issue - can't see chain rubbing the cage out front nor chain acting funny in the back. On the trainer it's just louder so hard to catch it.
That issue doesn't exist on the 35-14 and 35-13, it's quiet on the previous cog 15 and goes quiet again on 12.

Now, what's funny, it's quiet on these two cogs when chain is fresh from hotpot, just after it's been broken in, but then very quickly it goes loud again (these two cogs).

My only working theory right now is that it might indeed be rubbing the front derailleur cage (chain being still covered in the wax in the beginning helps) when some actual torque is applied to the drive train and my only option for now would be to adjust the limit screw 'blindly' and hope that auto-trim solves it.

Any idea when then auto-trim actually moves? I mean between which cogs? Speaking from my memory I think it moves every 3 cogs but maybe someone remembers/knows. Or maybe some other ideas?

Hi - new bike and need some help with the front mech.

First time I’ve had electronic gears and I don’t know how to trim the front mech when it’s in the big ring. The chain rubs slightly on the top 2 cassette sprockets when I’m in the big ring. I’ve searched up the micro adjust on the rear, but can’t find anything for the front. I know there’s the limit screws, but that only helps when in the small chainring or to stop it going too far outwards. This is in between that and no clue how to alter this….is there a way?

Thanks!

I'm currently looking at a Checkpoint Sl5.

However I've read multiple stories that the brakes are bad.

I'm currently grinding a bike with GRX 400 set.

Are the Apex brakes a downgrade?

The Checkpoint Sl6 would have the new Rival brakes, but that would cost around 900€ more.

Any help would be appreciated, I never used sram.

Hello,

I currently have the Sram Apex XPLR HRD mechanical group set. I currently run an 11-44 cassette with gravel tires. I wanted to add a road set to go between and was thinking having the 10-44 might be nice for a little more top end. I was wondering if it’s possible to switch back and forth with those cassette without having to adjust the derailleur. Wasn’t sure if the spacing was different because of the different free hub body’s or if the 1 tooth difference would cause any trouble. If anyone knows if that’s possible and recommends it let me know or should I just get another 11-44 on HG and call it a day.

Forgive me if this is stupid lol.

Can anyone confirm please if any of the crank based power meter from magene can be used with a 1x setup for the Sram Apex XPLR AXS groupset?

Hello,

I have a 1x mullet build with an Eagle GX RD and Apex shifters. This system worked fine until now.

Out of nowhere both shifters only shifted down. I tried to repair everything but the Eagle RD only recognizes one shifter and I cannot pair both.

I changed and charged every battery and also reset the RD accordingly to the SRAM tutorial.

Any suggestion what is going on?

Thank you!

Full disclosure: I sell a third-party replacement battery compatible with SRAM AXS/eTap derailleurs. I’m not posting a link here and I’m not asking for reviews or purchases.

I’m trying to understand how riders judge whether a third-party AXS/eTap battery is worth considering.

The main use case I see is not replacing OEM for everyone, but carrying a lower-cost spare for long rides, races, travel, or when the OEM battery is unavailable/expensive.

For a battery like this, what would matter most before you would trust it?

- Clear compatibility list for Red/Force/Rival/XX/X0 AXS/eTap

- Secure fit on the derailleur

- Runtime close to OEM

- Works with the normal SRAM-style charger

- Lower price than OEM

- Warranty/return policy

- Real photos showing fit and size

- Capacity/voltage shown clearly

What would make you avoid it immediately?

I’m especially interested in feedback from riders or mechanics who have used AXS/eTap for a while.

Hi!

I currently have a wheelset with an HG freehub and a SRAM Apex AXS XPLR cassette (XG-1231). I’m now looking at buying a new wheelset and I’m considering getting it with an XDR freehub instead (hopefully a bit more future-proof).

Which cassette would I then be able to use, or which one would you recommend? My current setup is SRAM Apex XPLR eTap AXS with a 42T chainring, so the cassette needs to be compatible with that.

It’s the first time I’ve really looked into cassettes, so I honestly don’t have much knowledge about them yet — I’m really looking for your experience and recommendations.

Thanks a lot in advance :)

About a month ago I went to a 1x setup (sram red e1). I've put roughly 1k miles into it over the past month, love it, and wish I would had gone 1x sooner on this bike.

Only issue I've had happen, is the bike will randomly refuse to go into the 10 cog.. I get the flashing red/green lights on the RD, like the bike thinks I'm in the small chainring trying to go small-small.

To fix this, I've had to put a battery into my uninstalled front derailleur, and "shift" the FD. The bike will then go into the 10 cog like normal.

I've been all over the AXS app looking for a way to specify that I'm running 1x, can't find anything. I've deleted and re-paired the bike to my app, still no hope.

It's a weird issue as it has only happened a few times over 1k miles.. it's still something I'd like to fix and not worry about it happening again.

What am I missing?
thanks in advance.

UPDATE:
I did re-pair the rear derailleur and shifters, now the FD is no longer showing up in app. Hopefully that has fixed it! Thanks for the help.

Hi, I just had the shop build up a new bike with force axs e1, 48/36 10-28. When I'm in the 36-28, and I shift down to the 24t, there's about a 5 second delay before it goes to the 24t. I measured the b gap and brought it in at 12mm (for 36t Rd and 28t max cassette). I also resized the chain to be sure it was the right length (overlap + 1 outer and 1 inner link). I still get that delay going from 28 to 24, anyone have any idea why that's happening? It's happening in the stand, not sure it'll be different when on the road. Thanks

I am considering buying a bike with Rival 1 groupset which comes with a 170 crank arms.

Can I swap the crank arms for something shorter either 165 or 160, or do I need an entirely new crankset?
I've been looking at the compatibility charts, but i'm completely unfamilar with sram so I'm pretty lost.

I’m running a SRAM Red AXS setup with a 52/39 and 10-33 cassette, and I really like the 52 for high-speed riding (especially descents). The only issue is that the 39 feels just a bit too hard on longer climbs. I’m considering swapping the inner ring to a 37 (so 52/37), even though it’s not an official SRAM combo. The goal is to keep the top-end speed while making climbing slightly easier. Has anyone tried a non-standard combo like this on AXS?
How’s the front shifting performance and reliability compared to the stock setups? Worth trying, or better to stick to SRAM-approved pairings?