u/ConstructionThin6554

ODIN 3 - NetherSX2 - PES 5 (WEMERICA)
▲ 3 r/WEPES+1 crossposts

ODIN 3 - NetherSX2 - PES 5 (WEMERICA)

https://reddit.com/link/1tj2gvh/video/82n6yunqkd2h1/player

I came across a patched PS2 game called PES WEMERICA. It’s the Japanese version of PES 5 (Winning Eleven 9), featuring real names, updated transfers for the 2005-2006 season, and all the kits. There are even small additions, like realistic supporter chants. For me, it’s the ultimate PS2 version of PES 5.

Why PES 5 and not PES 6?

First of all, because I played PES 6 for a very long time, from 2010 to 2018, on a very weak laptop that eventually died. Then I moved on to PES 2020 and PES 2021 (the "wow factor" was incredible).

But PES 5 feels closer to real football. It focuses more on physical battles than individual technical ability, and things can go wrong under pressure: poor ball control, misplaced shots, misplaced passes... In PES 6, top players almost never fail. Ironically, it's randomness and failure that make PES 5 feel more realistic to me.

In addition, the experience on the Odin 3 is fantastic.

Aside from very rare temperature spikes up to 50°C for half a second during certain loading sequences, temperatures during matches usually stay between 37°C and 43°C. I almost feel like I could remove the fan entirely without affecting that. How is this level of performance even possible? The Odin 3 is absolutely cruising through PS2 emulation.

And I’m using ClusterTune's "Large Underclock" profile on top of that. It feels like the battery could last forever. Being able to play PES 5 in bed, on trains, and anywhere else is a fantastic experience.

I won’t even talk about eFootball. For me, PES 2021 was the last game in the series. I tried the Android version on the Odin, and it felt massively oversimplified and heavily assisted. The input latency is insane. Compared to PES 5, it feels almost unplayable.

https://preview.redd.it/bh1x8aexkd2h1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=6065ba676fd44211a0380f8df70857b539b710d4

reddit.com

Odin 3 - button swap: mistakes, fixes and unexpected lessons

https://preview.redd.it/ct320teidx1h1.jpg?width=1992&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efbcf7b94143e9e5ab0d6aefbad09e1c6af88e0f

After somewhat blindly attempting to fix my noisy fan - and somehow unexpectedly succeeding - I moved on to what was supposed to be a simple formality: replacing the stock ABXY buttons with PlayStation buttons.

I was very wrong.

1. No glue

Contrary to what I saw in some tutorials, I would strongly recommend not gluing the buttons onto the silicone membrane before reinstalling them.
Instead:

1. install the buttons first
2. let the built-in alignment notches guide positioning
3. only then place the membrane on top

The small notches make it almost impossible to install the buttons incorrectly.
And most importantly: DO NOT use super glue. Seriously.

I originally thought fixing everything together beforehand would make assembly easier. It didn't. Not only is it unnecessary, it can also introduce tiny thickness differences that matter much more than expected. On these buttons, fractions of a millimeter are enough to affect travel and feel.

2. Remove every bit of adhesive residue

This became my second mistake.

After changing my mind, I removed the glue I had just applied... but not perfectly. I had also underestimated the original adhesive residue still left on the membrane.
The result was a combination of:

• partially removed glue
• original adhesive residue
• extra thickness I barely noticed

Big mistake. Take small scissors, a knife, cutter, or another precise tool and carefully scrape everything as clean as possible. I initially tolerated "good enough".

3. Compensating instead of fixing the actual problem

This was probably my biggest mistake.

Because I had created extra thickness without realizing it, I started diagnosing completely different problems. I convinced myself I had some kind of complex balance issue and went down a rabbit hole:

• adjusting screw tension
• loosening specific screws (I somehow started thinking like I was balancing a guitar bridge)
• trying asymmetrical adjustments
• even considering not reinstalling some screws

Way too complicated and completely unnecessary. I kept trying to compensate for the symptoms instead of fixing the cause. The issue wasn't balance but thickness.

Once the membrane was properly cleaned and everything sat where it naturally belonged, the rest suddenly became simple again.

4. Bonus mistake: the magnets stole my screws

I still have no idea how I didn't notice this happening.

The R2 magnets somehow captured THREE screws. I only realized it the next day when something suddenly felt mechanically wrong. For a moment I genuinely thought I had lost screws during reassembly: they had silently migrated into the magnetic trigger area.
So...

Check around L2/R2 if something mysteriously disappears.

Beware the magnets.

https://preview.redd.it/4ota2ueidx1h1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00c65f294edc347d4a1abe05ac642a308fe9a944

reddit.com
u/ConstructionThin6554 — 4 days ago

Odin 3 - understanding and fixing an intermittent noisy fan

My Odin 3 fan started making an intermittent scraping/rubbing noise.

At first I was convinced something was physically touching the blades:
• cable position
• fan slightly off-center
• contact with the chassis

Especially because sometimes simply moving or tilting the Odin made the sound disappear. So I opened it expecting an obvious answer.

Honestly, I thought I would instantly find debris, a cable touching the blades, or some visible damage.
Instead: nothing. No debris. No damage. No visible contact point.

I even removed the fan and spun it manually:
• no rubbing
• no resistance
• perfectly smooth

Which was frustrating because during normal use I could clearly hear the issue.

While waiting for AYN support, I searched community discussions and eventually found people mentioning lubrication. As someone with almost no repair experience, the idea sounded strange. I didn't even know a fan could become "too dry".

Still, I bought precision lubricant, applied one microscopic drop to the center rotating support area, spun the fan manually in both directions, and put everything back together.

Result: complete silence. After several hours of testing at different temperatures and fan speeds, no noise, no vibration, no scraping.

This doesn't prove anything for sure, but if lubrication instantly fixed it, I suspect the issue was probably:
• dry bearing
• tiny axial movement
• microscopic internal friction

Maybe the sound comes back one day. Maybe not. But if the long-term solution is adding one tiny drop of lubricant every few months, honestly I can live with that.

Side mission: I also replaced my stock ABXY buttons with Playstation buttons during the process. Ironically, that turned out to be much harder than fixing the fan.

u/ConstructionThin6554 — 4 days ago

TOP SPIN 4 on ODIN 3 via aPS3e

Top Spin 4 (standard version) / aPS3e / Odin 3

During my tests with around ten games, I had pretty bad luck with RPCS3: without specific tweaks, I mostly encountered crashes.
aPS3e has been far less punishing so far, with several games launching immediately without any special configuration. They are not always optimized, but they are playable. So, for now, aPS3e feels like the more reliable starting point.

1. Goals
- Stable gameplay without crashes
- Staying below 70°C to avoid relying on the fan
- Getting as close as possible to a stable 60 fps

2. Results
- No crashes encountered so far, all tested modes are accessible
- Very rare and brief peaks at 70°C
- Gameplay sequences running at a stable 59–60 fps, while presentation scenes and cinematics stay at a stable 30 fps, which conveniently helps lower temperatures slightly between matches

3. Settings

• aPS3e
CORE
- PPU Threads = 2
VIDEO
- Frame limit = PS3 native
- Write depth = ON
- VSync = ON
- Use BGRA format = OFF
- Force texture conversion = ON

• Odin 3
High Performance mode

• ClusterTune
Custom profile between “Small Underclock” and “Medium Underclock”:
- C0 = 2.75 GHz
- C6 = 2.44 GHz

4. Minor anomaly
One visual issue remains: striped/glitched faces are sometimes visible on AI-controlled players. They mostly appear during pre-match presentations, close-up camera shots, or cinematic zooms.

I have never noticed them on the human-controlled player, and they become far less visible (or completely invisible) during actual gameplay.

5. Conclusion - To be continued
For now, this is the best balance I’ve found between stability, temperature, and performance.

u/ConstructionThin6554 — 10 days ago
▲ 3 r/winlator+1 crossposts

Virtua Tennis 4 on Odin 3?

The PS3 version runs great on Odin 3, but unfortunately the World Tour Mode is broken there.

So I tried the PC version instead. It works perfectly on my Windows PC, but I can’t get it running properly on Odin 3 with Winlator, Winlator CMOD, Winlator Ludashi, GameHub, GameHub lite and GameNative.

I already applied the "xlive.dll" / Xliveless fix, and I can even open the launcher now, but the game itself always refuses to start with the same error message:

"User does not have privileges to access this application"

I’ve spent hours trying different containers, wrappers, DLLs, launchers, compatibility settings, etc., with no success.

Has anyone managed to make Virtua Tennis 4 fully work on Odin 3? Any idea what I’m missing?

u/ConstructionThin6554 — 11 days ago
▲ 25 r/OdinHandheld+1 crossposts

GTA 4 on ODIN 3 via GameHub

GTA IV (Anker version) / GameHub / Odin 3

A. Without the FusionFix patch

  • High settings overall (traffic density at 100% — apparently, around 30% is closer to the original PS3 experience).
  • View distance set to 100%.
  • Detail distance at 50% after hours of testing. Beyond that, I don’t notice any meaningful visual improvement on the Odin’s screen resolution.

Conditions:

  • Standard mode
  • No fan enabled
  • No FusionFix
  • “Large” underclock preset (the biggest CPU downclock). I use the ClusterTune app because it’s directly accessible from the Android menu.

RESULTS:

  • Low temperatures (under 55°C)
  • Relatively smooth performance. For me, “smooth” means stable performance above 30 fps. The game stays around 30 fps while driving through the city streets.

Honestly, I’m shocked by the level of performance under these conditions!


B. With GameHub’s Frame Generation

The goal here was to push the game closer to 60 fps while keeping the exact same settings as in the previous test.

RESULTS:

  • Frame rates are roughly doubled
  • But it doesn’t feel fully natural yet
  • Camera movement becomes quite stuttery Promising technology, but not perfect yet (assuming it ever can be for this kind of game)

C. With the FusionFix patch

Just drop the FusionFix files into the game folder, next to the .exe. I spent hours tweaking the settings and eventually found my personal "sweet spot". I'm sharing screenshots of all my settings.

My goal was:

  • staying below 70°C
  • avoiding fan noise
  • preserving battery life as much as possible

RESULTS:

  • Never above 70°C
  • No fan needed
  • Around 50–55 fps

I'm quite (very) happy with results!

Let me know if you tried it and got different results, or if you managed to achieve something even better. One question though: between stable temperatures of 60°C and 70°C, do you personally enable the fan to protect the device, or not?

u/ConstructionThin6554 — 12 days ago