u/CrepuscularMantaRays

Universal Pictures UK: A look inside Sense and Sensibility (SPOILERS!)

SPOILER ALERT. Universal Pictures UK has a new promotional video for the upcoming Sense and Sensibility. It's pretty standard stuff, but I do appreciate the behind-the-scenes material and the glimpses of footage that didn't make the trailer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xq7ezrXAyD4

Again, there isn't too much that we haven't already seen. We do see Mrs. Jennings (Fiona Shaw) with a pug, though! This is presumably a ball scene, since everyone is in (white) evening wear. I like the feathered turban and the "Turkish" short sleeves on the open robe. I can definitely imagine Mrs. Jennings having a lap dog.

https://preview.redd.it/pmw60w1op2kh1.png?width=1998&format=png&auto=webp&s=2762fda633170fcafbf806c9039d9f1da168c453

This next shot looks like Norland. Please tell me that there isn't a toy sword in this shot.

https://preview.redd.it/kcigyuedq2kh1.png?width=1874&format=png&auto=webp&s=72646ab4c22705cae48e811da76bb6b48c74d2b0

It looks as though Edward and Elinor may see each other at an art exhibition. I like this! Nice costumes on the extras, too.

https://preview.redd.it/gze7sdioq2kh1.png?width=1992&format=png&auto=webp&s=07b9f64e5a82459e74d1747c79012d0f68ea8f06

https://preview.redd.it/hf9ci0wws2kh1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=1755b20953d6df886b4685aa6ab08bd8231a57d3

In one of the ball scenes, Elinor has a cute sleeveless bodice (usually referred to as a either a "corset" or a "body" in 1790s fashion plates) over her gown. I had suspected that this was the case, but it's nice to have a better view. The conversation that we see here happens at a dance in the book, as well.

https://preview.redd.it/y39sbnu2r2kh1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=31299395c7b703e19585df3e713e8142a22c1d3b

There clearly IS color in the costuming, so we can be sure that the color palette in the trailer is strictly a post-production change. This dance looks exuberant.

https://preview.redd.it/wc1t1heir2kh1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=fe50750516180d05226ea466b3f15c77a0cd69b1

https://preview.redd.it/45ximkuts2kh1.png?width=1994&format=png&auto=webp&s=061ead70a5c5341feb1c4cd28e85e9f589fc38ca

It almost looks as though Marianne and Brandon have some sort of meet-cute in the woods. I am not fond of this idea, although I suppose it's no more disconnected from Austen than having Brandon fall in love with Marianne while she plays the piano (which the 1995 and 2008 adaptations do).

https://preview.redd.it/n4cxhwwfs2kh1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=bc624ef0db96e575498b0c499745902a12c5746f

Is this Lucy Steele, maybe? It doesn't seem likely that she'd be any other character.

https://preview.redd.it/vclqqr1ks2kh1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=6c5b1f9cdf83496504762ed2246512b5105f4137

reddit.com
u/CrepuscularMantaRays — 2 days ago
▲ 300 r/PrideandPrejudice+1 crossposts

Elizabeth's spencers and pelisses in Pride and Prejudice 1995

In my last post, I discussed the gowns worn by Jennifer Ehle as Elizabeth in P&P 1995. This second installment will cover the spencers and pelisses.

Once again, there are spoilers for P&P 1995! Read at your own risk.

During the Regency era, "spencer" was the term used for a short jacket. The men's version, essentially a coat without tails, was extremely popular in the 1790s (see this 1796 Gallery of Fashion illustration and these Isaac Cruikshank prints), although it continued to be worn well into the stylistic "Regency" period (see this 1806 Journal des dames et des modes fashion plate). The women's version, which was often cut as high as the waist of the gown worn under it, appeared around roughly the same time (here's an example in Gallery of Fashion, March 1795) and quickly became a standard part of walking dress.

As far as I can determine, P&P 1995's Elizabeth has five spencers and two pelisses. She wears one of the spencers, a light blue one, in her very first scene, when she is watching Bingley and Darcy. This spencer has a scoop neckline, and the long sleeves are capped with epaulettes that have a zigzag edging -- or "Vandyke" trimming, after the lace in the paintings of Anthony van Dyck. Similar sleeves can be seen on the spencers in these Ackermann's Repository fashion plates from November 1813 and November 1816, as well as on the 1823 pelisse in the London Museum collection. She wears it several times throughout the series, perhaps most notably in the scene where she meets Georgiana Darcy, who has a remarkably similar outfit. Maybe the costumes here imply the instant connection that forms between these characters (in the adaptation, at least) and the sisterly relationship that develops.

Blue spencer

Elizabeth and Georgiana dress similarly.

Like the blue spencer, Elizabeth's brown spencer has a low neckline. Although low-cut spencers were possibly less common than those with higher collars, they did exist (for example, see this 1804-1814 spencer in the Met collection). The only ornamentation Elizabeth's appears to have is some extensive embroidery, which can be seen more clearly in the photos from this museum curator's blog. In the adaptation, it sometimes looks like a pattern in the fabric!

Brown spencer

The rust-colored spencer seems to be a favorite of Elizabeth's, as she wears it during the tour of Pemberley and the walk to Meryton in the closing episode, when Darcy makes his second proposal. It appears many other times, too, and coordinates well with most of Elizabeth's bonnets. The very simple construction and long, slightly fluted sleeves resemble the spencer in this 1814 Journal des dames et des modes fashion plate.

Rust-colored spencer

https://preview.redd.it/r4ztg7g37k5h1.png?width=2513&format=png&auto=webp&s=75d0ea850cb977c79397a39374f3a507327df88b

Elizabeth is first seen in this black (or possibly very dark blue) velvet spencer when she walks to Netherfield. It has frogging in front and some cord along the edges, which make me think of this ca. 1815 spencer in the Met and the "spencer à la Hussarde" (there's the military influence) in this 1816 fashion plate. Spencers in velvet also show up frequently in fashion plates and museum collections. See this ca. 1818 one in the V&A and this 1814 fashion plate.

Black spencer

https://preview.redd.it/jiujnqs97k5h1.png?width=2236&format=png&auto=webp&s=a7b948fe3e97b206033e874645473892862244b0

The gray or gray-green spencer with piping and openwork on the sleeve caps or epaulettes is worn only once, as far as I can tell. It's in a pivotal scene, though. This construction of this spencer fairly closely resembles the previously mentioned ca. 1818 V&A piece, although, of course, the material is different. Sleeves like these became quite common in the 1820s, and a similar effect is present in this 1820-1825 gown in the V&A.

Gray spencer

For travel, Elizabeth wears slate-colored pelisse with notched lapels (similar to the ones in this 1816 Journal des dames et des modes fashion plate, or the one at right in this April 1808 fashion plate from The Lady's Monthly Museum) and a narrow "belt" with a buckle. She also seems to wear this sometimes to protect her gowns, such as during the scenes when she is walking to Rosings.

Travel pelisse

Like the spencers, this pelisse is worn with a variety of accessories.

In addition to her everyday pelisse, Elizabeth has a more elegant option: a brown silk pelisse, which is seen only during the Netherfield ball segment. I was a bit suprised to find that it is worn only once; although Elizabeth also wears a pelisse after her evening at Pemberley, it's her ordinary slate-colored one.

Evening pelisse

For evening at Pemberley, Elizabeth wears her state-colored pelisse.

Interestingly, Elizabeth is the only Bennet woman who arrives at the ball in a pelisse; her mother and sisters are all in long capes/cloaks. I speculate that the reason for this may be to emphasize her straightforward and down-to-earth personality. Costume designers often use the more "masculine" styles for this purpose, from what I've observed. The pelisse itself, with its small pattern, reminds me strongly of this silk pelisse that may have been owned by Jane Austen. Pelisses for formal occasions are seen occasionally in fashion plates from the period; the "Opera Pelisse" in the December 1813 La Belle Assemblée is a notable example. (Like many British fashion illustrations, this one is a rip-off of a fashion plate from Journal des dames et des modes.) And here's one from the March 1813 Ackermann's Repository.

Elizabeth in a pelisse (and her father in either a cloak or a greatcoat), and her mother and sisters in cloaks...

https://preview.redd.it/qrj6ehzv7k5h1.png?width=2300&format=png&auto=webp&s=6403b665f0edfacf5183c538229713c12541b898

In future posts, I intend to look at Elizabeths hats and accessories, as well as other characters' costumes.

reddit.com
u/CrepuscularMantaRays — 3 months ago