u/DivineKEKKO96

Hello, the back touch button looks like it’s always pressed and takes me back to the main menu whenever I try to access the settings. Can anyone help me? Thanks!

This microwave has a major design flaw. Food particles collect on the grill heating element, so every time we use the grill function it produces smoke and a bad smell. Does anyone have any tips for cleaning it? The protective mesh isn't removable, which makes it very difficult to access.

Thanks 😄

I’m building a waterproof enclosure (aiming for IP65 or better) for a small electronics project using a CYD display.

The case body is 3D printed in PETG, and the lid is an acrylic (plexiglass) sheet, either 2 mm or 4 mm thick.

For sealing, I’m using an EPDM "O-ring" (~2.8-3 mm cord) seated in a rectangular groove in the PETG base. The lid is secured with four corner screws.

I’ve run several design iterations, but I’m still running into the same problem: the lid deforms when I tighten it down.

• Without the O-ring, the acrylic stays perfectly flat
• With the O-ring installed, the lid bows noticeably
• The corners get pulled down, while the middle of the long edges lifts up
• The seal contact ends up uneven, with most compression happening near the screws

At first I suspected the lid wasn’t stiff enough, so I tried increasing thickness up to 4 mm. I also experimented with groove depth and O-ring compression, but none of these changes fixed the issue.

Instead of getting an even seal, I keep seeing:

• Excess pressure at the corners
• Weak contact along the mid-span of the edges
• Overall warping of the lid under tightening

If anyone has ideas on what might be causing this or how to improve the sealing approach, I’d really appreciate the help.

Update:

I opted with a lower-durometer O-ring cord (expanded neoprene), as many of you suggested. If that still causes the acrylic to bend too much, I'll add anywhere from 2 to 8more screws, depending on how the acrylic behaves.

I have no way and honestly no idea how to properly simulate the design, so I'll be approaching it the old-fashioned way: trial and error, and 3D-printing more junk until it works.

Thanks to everyone who commented here, you’ve been really helpful, and you also pointed me toward some great resources like the Parker O-Ring Handbook.