Hello, im actually thinking about buying new keyboard and i found 3 options but i dont know which one will be the best. In case of price they are nearly the same. Its +/- 25$ diff.
Apex 5, Apex 7 or Apex Pro but not gen 3.
This headset has a super annoying and aggressive beeping for low battery
Does anybody know of a way to stop the beeping on the wireless headset without having to replace the battery with the charged one ? , it starts to beep around 25% but the headset still last for about 2 more hours befor the battery display starts blinking , and during the time it aggressively beeps kinda at random ? Whose stupid idea was that the beeping probably leeches about 30-45 minutes of overall battery life , with today's software I should be able to customize it or disable it but you can't I've already turn a few friends away from the headset
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The SteelSeries Arctis 7 is still one of my favorite gaming headsets. The only thing that always bothered me was the outdated Micro-USB charging port. After years of plugging and unplugging the cable, Micro-USB connectors tend to become loose or fail.
Instead of replacing the headset, I decided to upgrade it to USB-C.
The good news is:
It works!
The headset charges perfectly through USB-C, and now I don't have to keep a Micro-USB cable around just for this headset.
If I were doing this repair again, I would absolutely buy a digital microscope.
The solder pads are incredibly tiny.
I originally used magnifying goggles and my phone's camera, and while they worked, I honestly believe a digital microscope would have made the repair much easier and given me much more confidence that every pin was soldered correctly.
The charging port is located inside the left earcup.
Using a Torx T5 screwdriver, carefully remove the screws and open the headset.
Take your time and keep track of every screw during disassembly.
Apply plenty of flux around the Micro-USB connector.
Using your hot air rework station, evenly heat the connector until the solder melts.
Once the solder has fully melted, carefully lift the connector off the board.
Do not force it.
After removing the connector:
One trick that helped me tremendously was pre-tinning everything.
First, apply flux.
Then, using your soldering iron, lightly add fresh solder to every pad on the headset PCB.
Next, repeat the same process on the USB-C adapter board.
Having solder already on both surfaces makes the final soldering process much easier.
This is probably the most important part of the entire project.
The USB-C board I used has six pins on the connector itself but exposes only five output pins, so you don't have to add jumper wires or perform any additional wiring.
Simply align the adapter correctly.
The positive side should face the edge of the PCB.
See the USB-C orientation diagram included with this guide for the correct alignment.
Carefully position the USB-C adapter.
Apply plenty of flux.
Using your soldering iron, gently drag the tip from one side of the pins to the other.
Because both surfaces were already pre-tinned, the solder flowed together very easily.
Take your time.
Inspect every solder joint before moving on.
This is where I learned one of the biggest lessons during this repair.
I originally used magnifying goggles while soldering.
Then I switched to my phone's camera.
I used Live View to inspect every solder joint.
After that, I took high-resolution photos and zoomed in to verify that each pin was actually making proper contact.
That method worked surprisingly well.
However, if I were doing this repair again, I would absolutely use a digital microscope.
The solder joints are simply too small to inspect comfortably, and having a microscope would make the process much easier.
This step is extremely important.
Before applying any hot glue:
Only after I confirmed the headset was charging correctly did I permanently secure everything.
If something isn't working, now is the time to fix it—not after everything has been glued together.
The original Micro-USB opening is too small for a USB-C connector.
Using a Dremel, slowly enlarge the opening until the USB-C connector fits comfortably.
Go slowly.
Remove only a small amount of plastic at a time.
Test-fit the connector often.
Once everything was working perfectly, I applied hot glue around the USB-C adapter.
Then I carefully installed it back into the headset housing.
One challenge is getting everything aligned while fitting it back into place.
What worked best for me was:
After reassembling the headset, I added another layer of hot glue from the outside for additional strength.
The biggest weakness of charging ports isn't usually the connector itself.
It's the repeated mechanical force from plugging in the charging cable hundreds or even thousands of times.
Every time you insert the cable, you're placing stress on the solder joints and PCB.
Eventually, those joints can crack.
The hot glue acts as strain relief, helping absorb that force instead of transferring it directly to the circuit board.
Hopefully, this modification will last for many years.
Years ago, HP laptops had a similar problem.
People constantly damaged the charging port because it was soldered directly to the motherboard.
HP eventually redesigned the system.
Instead of mounting the charging connector directly to the motherboard, they attached it using a short cable.
That way, mechanical stress wasn't transferred directly to the motherboard.
You could apply the same concept here if you're comfortable with more advanced electronics work.
Instead of mounting the USB-C adapter directly to the PCB, you could connect it using short wires and mount the charging port elsewhere inside the headset.
This isn't necessary, but it's another option if you want maximum durability.
✔ Use plenty of flux.
✔ Pre-tin both the headset PCB and the USB-C adapter.
✔ Don't rush.
✔ A digital microscope is worth the investment.
✔ Your phone's camera works surprisingly well for inspecting solder joints.
✔ Test charging before applying hot glue.
✔ Go slowly when enlarging the opening with the Dremel.
✔ Reinforce the connector with hot glue so the PCB isn't absorbing all of the mechanical stress.
Now that this upgrade was successful, my next project is converting my Bose SoundLink speaker from Micro-USB to USB-C using the same general method.
I'll likely use many of the same tools and techniques from this guide.
A huge thank you to everyone in the electronics repair community who shared wiring diagrams, photos, videos, and tutorials. Those resources helped me understand the USB-C pin orientation and gave me the confidence to complete this project successfully.
If you're attempting this modification yourself, I highly recommend reviewing multiple guides before starting.
This isn't the easiest modification I've ever done, but it's definitely one of the most satisfying. The SteelSeries Arctis 7 is still an excellent headset, and upgrading it to USB-C gives it a much more modern feel while eliminating one of its weakest design points.
If you're comfortable with fine-pitch soldering, have the right tools, and take your time, this is a very rewarding upgrade that can help extend the life of your headset for years to come.
I hope this guide helps someone else breathe new life into their Arctis 7. Happy soldering!
So I just bought a new pair of AUX headphones and was recommended to download SteelSeries GG (latest version) for a lot of EQ adjustment settings etc. and within 5 hours of gaming my computer crashed 4 times so I was getting really confused because my PC has never crashed but I thought it had something to do with the live service game, but now something has broken and it will not even power on.
I saw another Reddit post that someone had a similar problem but they were very thorough in documenting and proving that the issue was the app, and then there were tons of people in the comments saying that this had happened to them as well to varying degrees of severity.
Sooooo.... wtf is going on... this is a known issue? How can they not have shut down this app and not made it downloadable directly from their website until they figured out how to fix this? I'm so confused.....
CPU: AMD 7600
GPU: RTX 4070
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR5 5600 MT/s
MoBo: MSI MPG B650 Edge ATX
Power: MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold
The receiver model for the Nova Pro Wireless is HS25TX, the Nova Pro Omni uses HS39TX, and the Nova Elite uses HS32TX.
My Nova Pro Wireless receiver is broken. Can I use a receiver from the Nova Pro Omni or the Nova Elite instead?
I am thinking about upgrading my Logitech G733 headset I have used it for about 2-3 years of heavy usage. They’ve started having microphone issues (raspy audio after my PC wakes from sleep), so I think it’s time for something new.
My budget is $150 (maybe $180 if there really good)
What I’m looking for:
💙Wireless
🥰Comfortable suspension/head strap like the G733
🎤Good mic for Discord and in-game voice chat
🔊Great positional audio (hearing footsteps/directional sounds)
🔋Long battery life with a low-battery indicator
🎧Replaceable ear cushions would be nice(not a need)
I’ll mainly use them on PC for games like, Stardew Valley, dead by daylight, 7days, Skyrim, REPO, and stuff like YouTube, discord, streaming services.
I have been thinking about getting the SteelSeries Arctis Nova 5 Wireless but I am open to other options. If you’ve owned one, how has it held up over time? What would you recommend instead?
Is it possible to use the same Omni pro wireless headset with two Omni base stations? Not simultaneously but say one at a living room setup and one at a desk setup
I correctly connect my artic nova elite to the iPhone and artic app. They work fine but then after a minute they go completely silent, especially if I change app.
What should I do? Only way to restore audio is to dissociate device and reconnect to iPhone, but then the same happens
Can anyone confirm that it´s possible to set a parametric EQ (like this one) on PC and it´s available in the DAC as custom EQ when using the headset with a PlayStation? If so what was your process? I keep receiving different feedback whether or not this works at all. Thanks.
So basically I was telling my friend about the failing shift key my G815 has, and then he told me that he has an Apex Pro TKL lying around and he'd sell it to me for 50€. After doing some research, I figured I should take that deal. But before I do, I have 2 questions.
1: what else should I maybe know?
2:should I actually take that deal?
I have to change the battery everyday it seems, yes I have ANC on but I don't think these batteries should be dying as fast as they are.
simple as is, made sure no tasks for it were running in task manager, tried running it as admin yet the app refuses to open
This setting does not work correctly, every time the buds are turned off it defaults to some default setting and this one is ignored. I have to keep reapplying this setting every use which annoys me greatly. I have seen this already reported looong time ago but its still not FIXED!
Mine shows 1.19.7 in GG, no update ever offered. Support claims current is 4.16.8.
Wired Gen 3 owners: what does yours show? Trying to figure out if 1.19.7 is just the normal version for this model.
I can hear the electronics in the right earcup. It's a constant and high pitch sound that does not go away until the headphones are powered off. Until I can find another headset that does not do this, I guess I'll be going back to my Arctis 1 wireless. It's quite a shame as I just got used to the soundstage of these headphones, and they're super comfortable. Also, the GG software is extremely accessible with screen readers, making it 100% usable for blind people. The same cannot be said about any other headset software.
This plastic covering piece was loose under the ear muff of my arctis nova pro wireless, is it necessary to perform headset surgery or can i just use the headset without it
Please advice.
I have a question for you man please help me I just got the nova pro wit the updated and numb they did with the wicked cushion cap pads on amazon prime day for 260 so should I keep these or return and get the omni I only play on xbox and ps5 and I don't want the sound at same time and really the app is cool but is that worth paying the extra just for that when I can just do eq on the base please help
I'm having an issue with the Nova Elites: there is a popping sound when listening to any audio, ONLY when Sonar is enabled. Drivers and GG are all updated, enhancements and audio quality Hz are the same in Windows sound settings. I tried a different wire, ports, and PC; I even bought the same headset to see if it was hardware-related, and the same issue persists. I have no idea what else to do. For $600, this should not be a problem. If anyone knows a solution, please let me know. There have been 2 Sonar updates since this occurred, and neither has fixed it. I downgraded to 110, and the issue is still happening.
Hardware:
9800x3d
Asus TUF 5080
32 GB 6000mhz Teamgroup CL30 Ram
Have a Artics Nova Pro Wireless hooked up to my pc. Dock says firmware update available but in GG i keep clicking the "click to install" and nothing happends. have restarted. also ran as admin. Pretty much headsets a brick right now. Any way to download manually?
