u/DotBetaSDK

A couple of weeks ago I posted the start of my enclosure build. I now present its final form! I’ve printed some more bits like the plexi trim that goes on the bottom and the lower table mounts.

I removed the upper spacers and chopped the underside of the top cover to accommodate the printer fully sealing it all around. This does affect printing height but in those times where I need the extra height the top merely comes right off as it’s held in place with dowels and that’s it.

My birthday came and went and the SO got me a Sunlu S4. I made 4 filament tube holes that feed into the enclosure making filament swapping a breeze. I’ve been researching 4 into one setups but that will be a project for another day.

Lastly I wanted to mention yes I do not have enclosure doors on yet. I’m only printing with PLA and PETG atm so I have not felt the need to install them yet. The enclosure does a great job of keeping breezes out and when you put your hand in the enclosure while printing you can definitely feel a change in temp. I think until I get into the hotter filaments it’ll do for now and makes it easier for me to access and tinker. There has been a drawback to the enclosure location. That is my AC runs constantly because the printer is generating warmth and tripping my ac lol. I’ll have to think of a work around for that.

Some tips and tricks I learned along the way. Wood glue is your friend. After the initial assembly it was pretty wobbly and would rock will printing even being braced in the corner of the room. I decided to tear it all down and reassemble with larger screws and generous amount of wood glue between all of the joint and plastic mounts. This means it cannot be disassembled as easily but holy heck did it increase its rigidity ten fold. It no longer wobbles and has minimal vibrations. I plan on using some command strips to physically attach the enclosure to the wall for even more support.

3 table build. Pretty happy with it. Have to attach the front doors and print extended top mounts for a prop top. Works great as of now and am happy with the cost to result.

Gaming has taken a bit of a backseat lately in my life as I’ve been finding new hobbies. Been gaming on my M5 Pro connected to my tv and crimson desert is gorgeous.

Which brings me to my legion go z1e. I was doing some cleaning around the house and while tidying up behind the tv I the LeGo covered in dust in a sad state. Hadn’t been touched in months…

I’ve been using my laptop to run Klipper on my Ender 3 when it hit me. I can use the LeGo as a glorified hyperkill klipper control unit with touchscreen! After a factory reset and shelving the controllers I have my control panel. Of course I’ll still use it for some light gaming but this will be its new home.

“What is my purpose?”

You run Klipper.

“Oh my God.”

I so performed the dual y axis mod and used some basic metal brackets to hold the bed mounting plate. I obviously had some binding issues so I made a jig to align the rails and tightened everything down. It felt too tight and would not roll freely and needed a push to move. I was not happy with this and started looking around online and found this 3d printed piece that was the only one for an original Ender 3 and not the version with the larger y axis rail. Long story short I tore it down after printing this piece and holy crap if I give it a little push it keeps rolling for a bit totally 💯 better.

A coworker told me the machine is upgrading itself and I told her it’s a codependent relationship lol.

Link to print I used: https://www.printables.com/model/193293-double-linear-rails-y-axis-ender-3-v1/files

I only needed the large bit and end stop bit. The adaptor I’m not sure what it’s for.

Having a blast learning about the fundamentals of 3d printing and what is what and how it works. This is thee perfect printer to split frustration with gratification in a learning process lol. She’s comes a long way from the thrift store.

Has money been spent to get it up to snuff. Yes. Would it have been better to just buy a newer printer? Probably. But you can’t put a price on the experience lol. I’ve printed so much cool stuff it’s paid for itself.

Heels were wearing out on the setters and it was time to pick up a new pair. I absolutely loved the Setters and the Boa was so convenient. My only regret was they did not have a replaceable sole. I spent more time in them off the clock they were so comfortable lol. I decided on the Traction tred lites yesterday. The clerk asked if I wanted to mink oil them at no charge. I initially told him no because I’ve seen how
Much darker they get but seeing as how I directly deal with water I ended up caving and letting him do it. Definitely darker but I dig it and the wife is happy I’m not going out in the setters for a bit haha.

Rangers are definitely in the casual outdoor rotation I have the leather insole and they are perfect.

Setup: Gen 1 Ender 3. sprite DD extruder SE. MK8 hot end. Bimetal heat break. 3rd party nozzles that came with a tool kit. Dual z axis. Linear x rail. CR Touch. Glass bed. Marlin firmware I compiled myself following a guide.

I am trying to print a new fan shroud. In cura I adjusted all the settings to account for the dd extruder to the best of my knowledge after lengthy research. When the print begins the test line comes out perfect. I have the first and second layer print at 10mm/s and flow rate is 90% for the whole print. It’s like the printer will do whatever it wants.

The second picture is the start of the shroud and it was going perfect then it starts spitting out little balls and stops feeding entirely. I stop the print and take it apart to inspect. No clogs everything looked fine. The second attempt the test line comes out perfect and when it moves over to begin it immediately starts spitting out little balls instead of a line out the gate until it stops. The extruder is spinning but when I pull the filament out the sides are chewed up like it hit a blockage. But there is not blockage….

Has anyone dealt with this? I’ve tried everything for the last 48hrs and nothing changes.

So I printed a PETG fan shroud for my MK8 hot end with the intention of it holding up better to heat than my PLA fan shroud. After printing it came out very nicely. I installed it and attempted to print something else in PETG and noticed that the shroud would begin to melt and the hot end with flex due to the screws loosening causing inconsistent and irregular prints. I also tried printing PLA and heat creep would still occur and cause the hot end to lean. To Remedy this, I decided to give a bimetal heat break a try. 12 bucks from Amazon I did not have thermal compound on hand so I was a little upset that it would compromise the conductivity. After install and a couple of test prints, I can happily say that after installing the heat brake heat creep is nonexistent and it works phenomenally.. I can now print PETG and PLA without any type of melting. A must have upgrade.