u/DownVoteMeHarder4042

Need to buy ammo. My rifle likes .223 better than 5.56. Should I take the velocity hit, or the accuracy hit?

16" Criterion .223 wylde Hybrid. Purpose is GPR AR-15 stuff and is to shoot affordable factory ammo in the $0.75/rd range when I'm running low on 6.5CM ELD-M for my bolt gun, with minute of steel silhouette accuracy out to maybe 700y, I would say no further based on my experience with heavier, more setup for accuracy, .223 AR's that make me feel like the caliber poops out by then. I know better ammo exists, but at $1/rd I feel like I would be better served switching calibers.

Rifle groups about 1.5MOA or less with FGMM as a baseline test. It hates 68 gr Frontier 5.56 and 77gr TMK Bone Frog, and TMK AAC. Frontier 68gr .223 pressure gives 1.25-1.8 MOA average though, consistently under 2MOA with multiple tests. Frontier 75gr is 2MOA on a good day, with average groupings a bit higher 2.25-2.5MOA.

So would you go with the more accurate .223 loading and lose the velocity (I see chrono results of like 2640 for the 58gr .223) or go for the hot loaded 5.56?

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u/DownVoteMeHarder4042 — 19 hours ago
▲ 1 r/tdi

A/C issue, passenger side cool sometimes, driver side warm

2013 Jetta TDI. Heat works fine and is even on all vents. Mechanic refilled system, and the a/c was working on both sides, said that the high pressure gauge was on the low side but to drive it on a hotter day and let him know how it goes. A few days later 90 degrees outside, sometimes the passenger side would get cool, driver side warm, really hot sunny days it was just warm air. Took it back in. UV light revealed a leak from the evaporator core which he showed me. It still does get kinda cold on the passenger side if it's like 80 degrees outside though. Was quoting around $1500 to pull the dash and replace. However, he's not a big VW guy, want to see if there's anything I could be missing before dropping that kind of money, or attempting the repair myself.

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Anyone run a passive only setup with WML illuminator?

My SPR is just so dang heavy once you add the bipod, suppressor, and LAM. I took the LAM off and put it back on my MK18. For the SPR I put a vampire head on the WML to give optional IR illumination. It has a 507c piggyback on which I hear isn’t good under very dark conditions, but so far has been okay with ambient moonlight. I also used to use bindon aiming under night vision with success, so I’m not super worried about the light transmission yet. The idea was to save weight, navigate in the dark and avoid detection while moving to a location, yet still have the ability to shoot under NODs if absolutely necessary. I also was thinking it leaves room for a COTI, but I can’t say I’m ready to drop that kind of money yet so I try not to consider it a factor. Curious if anyone has had success with a similar setup or if I should just suck it up and deal with the weight.

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u/DownVoteMeHarder4042 — 27 days ago

Regulations make hunting for meat seem like such a chore

Just curious if anyone else struggles with this, not trying to make a political statement. I’ve been medium-big game hunting a handful of times. I have zero interest in hunting as a sport or hobby, I don’t care about antler size, I strictly just like the idea of getting meat in a natural and ethical way. With firearm season so short, and my work schedule so erratic, I barely ever get out for my measly one deer yearly bag limit which hardly seems worth it. I know other people who have multiple setups, straight wall cartridge, archery, shotgun, flintlock, to get around this and it gets even more complicated when they hunt in different zones, and that just seems like a lot of money and headache for little return unless you really like hunting as a sport. The only thing that has stuck for me is small game, since the season is almost year round, almost no bag limit, and not many rules. For medium to big game, I think I would need my own property and do crop damage control to find it worth it. Anyone else feel the same way?

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u/DownVoteMeHarder4042 — 1 month ago