Don’t wanna think it’s a turbo leak but I have no loss in power, no noises from turbo or oil consumption, mpg is great no limp mode or DTC idk how long it’s been like this but I’ve seen that o ring and coupler fails can cause small bits of oil from pcv to leak especially if it’s been leaking for a while, but idk how long it’s been leaking it looks like it’s been a bit since it’s so grimy
As the title says: Glowplug light on a 2013 A3 TDI.
Glow plugs have been tested and they check out fine.
Wiring and all that has been traced and checked.
Glowplug code still will not clear.
Has anyone else seen something similar?
Currently racing with Lucky Dog Racing League and I've been brainstorming some ideas on a MK4 Golf TDI build for a diesel endurance platform. There's very few diesels racing in the league and I think it would be cool to add to that if its feasible. I have some questions regarding it. I know a bit about the 2.0 8v and the 1.8T 20v, but I'm not super familiar with TDI's. I have good diesel engine knowledge in general though.
Can you reliability make 150whp out of a TDI while keeping EGTs on the cooler side? I'm assuming turbo and intercooler upgrades for sure. Do these have piston oil squirters?
Which engine has better internals? I heard one is better than the other. I don't want to open any up if I don't have to. I'd rather just get a junkyard engine if one needed replaced.
It's open tuning, so the biggest restriction is OEM Tank or 24 gal fuel cell max and using Hankook RS4 tires, which I'm sure a TDI will just sip fuel.
Labor prices (mk5-7) more services are cheaper than individual:
Timing belt: $550-750
Thermostat: $400-550
Emissions corrections(2009-2014 only): $650-850
Valve cover: $400-500
Racecar stuff gets a discount for doing cool stuff: turbos, advanced suspension work, gutting the interior and adding a second engine in the rear(please do it), etc.
Most of you know the rest:
Owner provides flat, hard surface to work on. I’ve got the tools.
Barter accepted. (Pew pew[state dependence], skilled metal fab).
Discount through Cascade German.
Referral bonus for previous customers.
I have a 15 mile drive to work- 4mi through town, 8 on the highway and another 3 on base
This is the first time I hit all 6 green lights in town so I’m super stoked 😎
Typically I’ll get around 50mpg on a normal day so I figured this was post-worthy lol
Hello everyone,
How does this TDI engine sound to you?
It is a 2.0 TDI (engine code: DFGA). For the past 2 weeks, I was driving a 1.2 TSI while this diesel was parked, as I didn't need to make any trips longer than 5–6 km.
Now I'm not sure if I'm just imagining it after driving the quiet and smooth little TSI, or if there is actually a "rustling" / "clicking" noise coming from the timing belt side.
The engine sound remains the same whether it's cold or at operating temperature. It currently has 151,000 km.
Morning Folks - It's been a while!
I've got a new Discount for y'all for more physical parts this time over @ https://sustdi.com/bff/Ty/ or Code "ThatGuyTy"
SUS is working on lots of parts for 3.0TDI bits, and 2.0TDI with more to come, made locally in North America!
Discount on Tuning is also applicable with this discount, and higher discount rates with Tune + Parts purchase.
Happy Diesel-ing
Hello all.
I am wondering if anybody has good insight into making the most torque possible out of the 170hp CFGB motor, consider my “unlimited” budget. I want to create something truly undriveable, also would like to keep the DSG. Thanks ☺️
Hi, I bought My 2014 seat Leon mk3 2.0 Tdi about a year ago now, been a great car in general and have had few issues other than burning some oil, and mainly randomly losing all my coolant, it’s happened 4/5 times now where I’ll go to start the car in the morning and the reservoir will be empty, it’ll usually only need topping up of about 500ml to a litre and it’ll then stay that level exactly only to dump another 500ml a few months later, I’ve had it checked out by my mechanic who says he can’t find what’s wrong, another mechanic told me it might be the water pump but that was done only about 50000km ago so it shouldn’t really be causing trouble, this hasn’t ever really bothered me that much because the car still drives perfect and never overheats but I’m thinking of selling the car and don’t want someone to be stuck with this issue, the radiator fan also sometimes stays on very very loud after I turn the car off, I’ve had people come telling me I forgot to turn my car off when it’s actually just this fan that occasionally stays on for 3/4 mins after driving
I’m looking at a 2015 golf tdi sportswagen hardtop for $7720 in the Midwest with 118k. Timing belt is coming due. I have a mechanic that can do it at a decent price. Possible heater core, repaired leather on both rear passenger doors. Everything else seems squared away. The push to start took alittle to get it started on a weak battery. Ding on the door. Typical scratches at the tailgate bumper. Going back tomorrow to see it washed. Normal blowby, shifted good. No suspension or transmission red flags. Scanner came back clean. Only thing was that the tps came on while test driving. Probably needed it reset. Saw a ton of sportwagens that had worse cosmetic issues. Am I being too knit picky trying to find one like the 2014 we bought last year for 8k.
Yeah so I pretty much got screwed. I got a gtc1556vz turbo and within 19,000 miles my turbo failed. I do oil changes every 3-5k miles, the car has never overheated, any oil or coolant problems I get fixed immediately and the car has never been driven in bad conditions I get everything fixed immediately. What the cause was, the stock map sensor on these cars is a 3bar or 27-29psi max. I ordered a 4 bar map sensor for this turbo and the tuner refused to tune for it and said it’s not necessary and that the car can run on the stock sensor, well that slowly was causing unknown overboost issues and destroying the turbo over time, cutting the lifespan by 80%. This turbo should’ve lasted 150k + miles especially on my setup. So this wasn’t my mistake, but DO NOT MAKE THIS MISTAKE IT WILL COST YOU THOUSANDS IF YOU GET TURBO FAILURE.
This is a new one for me. Changed pcv diaphram and turbo 1400 miles ago. Less oil consumption since changing the pcv but now I have oil pooling up on the manifold with I cannot find the source
long story short, mechanic replaced camshaft without me authorizing or telling me about it, now its doing this and has gotten worse over the past 15 miles. any clues as to what it could specifically be? this isnt the new smf either, that has its own grinding sound. i just need some clues so i know where to start digging
Hey y’all. Just bought a 2015 Golf manual with 130k on the clock, love it so far but want some opinions. I was having some engine hesitation problems, and took it to the dealer who did the phase 2B emissions replacement and swapped the engine speed sensor that solved the problem. This gave it another 5 year 60k mile warranty. The problem, when I bought this I knew I wanted to permanently fix the emissions problem so I have all the parts.
The extended emissions warranty just saved me from a stalling nightmare, so voiding it immediately feels like a massive gamble. On the other hand, I am absolutely itching to walnut blast, clean, and permanently fix the emissions. Can I get some opinions? Ride out the warranty or permanently fix the problem?
Thanks!
I’ve sold my daily and am looking for a tdi mk3 golf, there’s not really many at all for sale in the UK but I’ve found this one pictured and it seems decent enough the only thing that’s putting me off a bit is it’s on 216k miles.
I know tdi’s have a reputation for lasting moon miles but I thought I’d ask if anyone has had any experience with the mk3 tdi’s and whether I should wait till one with slightly less mileage pops up or if this is a safe buy.
And what kind of things should I look out for on a mk3 tdi?
Thank you!
Looking at picking up this 2014 tdi 6mt sports wagon. 110k miles. This is a non running car, it recently had the clutch replaced and the owner was moving 400 miles and it broke down 300 miles from the shop that did the clutch.
Owner took it to a shop and they said it needs a new transmission.
Other facts: transmission will not shift into any gear with the motor off or on. Car was driving down the freeway pulled into a rest stop and after going to the bathroom would no longer go into gear.
Shop it was taken to works on vw, unknown if they are an expert.
My thoughts: it’s probably the shift linkage. I don’t think it’s the clutch as you would be able to shift into and out of gears with the motor off. What other things could it be. This only makes sense if I don’t have to buy a rebuilt transmission.
I have a 2013 vw Passat tdi se I just purchased for 8k, it’s got 97k miles and has A engine code for a sticking throttle body. The dealer I bought it from cleared these codes before I bought it. That’s some basics of the car, now the issue, the car overheats. It’s pretty random the car will run for 30 minutes no issue. Or 10 minutes and it’s getting hot. It’s not just at a stop sign or idling. Though sometimes it will start to over heat at stop signs. The temp will go up to 260 and sometimes drop back down to normal before it’s hits 260. The heater blows hot heat even when it’s over heating as well. I was quoted $700 for a flush and thermostat. I believe it’s the thermostat but let me know what you guys think please.
Doing a blown head gasket job and found this, any thoughts as to what has caused it?. Looks like im buying a new head. 300k miles drove over a year with the bad gasket.
I have what I think is a boost leak on my car, I tried to smoke test it yesterday but I believe I’ve not tested all the pipes as I couldn’t find a leak, can anyone guide me towards which pipes to test and what they think this noise is, it happens under load at around the 2k rev mark in every gear except 1st gear, the car now lacks power and sometimes feels abit jerky, thanks