The first photo has been taken before before a 500km trip (motorway at 120-140km/h). The second one after this trip (waited about 2 hours before measuring it). There’s slightly less oil. Is this concerning?
Just brought this Mercedes GLC220d 2016 OM651 2.1 diesel and few days later had a massive diesel leak. After investigating it’s coming from this small drain pipe (what I think it is), I replaced the pipe and tied it with wire temporarily and issue is fixed. I’m going to replace the filter. Fuel was shooting out of here when on ignition and running.
My question is, should fuel even be coming through this small pipe with that much pressure, is it normal? I’m a bit worried.
Hi all,
I’m hoping someone has come across this before.
I have a 2011 Porsche Cayenne 958 3.0 TDI V6 (245bhp) with around 127,000 miles.
The car drives perfectly most of the time, but if I floor it, for example accelerating hard onto a motorway slip road or overtaking, it will suddenly go into Reduced Engine Power and the coil/glow plug warning light comes on. The engine is then limited to around 2,000 rpm.
If I stop, switch the ignition off and restart it, the car drives perfectly again until I give it full throttle.
Other symptoms:
Slight hesitation/judder when crawling in traffic at low speed.
Occasionally the 2nd to 3rd gear change feels a little odd, but all other gear changes are fine.
No noticeable black or white smoke.
Starts first time every time.
No rough idle.
MAF unplugged gives the expected engine warning, but the full-throttle limp mode still seems to be a separate issue.
Generic OBD scanner isn’t showing an obvious engine fault that explains the limp mode.
So far I’ve been thinking along the lines of:
Boost leak.
Turbo outlet hose.
Intercooler hose or O-ring.
Turbo actuator/vacuum issue.
MAP sensor.
Has anyone had these exact symptoms on a 958 3.0 TDI? If so, what was the actual fix?
I’d really appreciate any advice before I start replacing parts.
Thanks in advance!
187K topped off oil about three weeks ago, was half qt low I noticed before change. Anything I should be looking out for?
Everything’s out but DPF, what’s the easiest way, took off all trans side axle bolts and the axle still won’t drop? Video I watched it dropped right away
Really want to get my first TDI, Found on marketplace and Could get it for $4500 looks pretty clean haven’t ran vin yet, would this be a good deal or should I pass?
I replaced the piston (0.50)
Sounds healthy ?
Is my thermostat stuck open?
Its basically always alot lower on coolant temp 2 and my coolant rarely reaches 190.
2014 jetta 2.0 malone stage 2 and rawtek max performance straight pipe
It's stupid hot out, do I still need to warm up my car before doing an oil change?
I'll be using an extractor, if that makes a difference.
Hi, I have a Seat Ibiza 1.2 TDI (2011) and I’m currently in the process of changing the timing belt+waterpump+v ribbed belt. I also want to replace the tensioners but I’m stuck on the V belt tensioner. I’ve read somewhere it’s bolted down behind the AC or something? It doesn’t have any screws that you can see from the front (photo). I can’t find any good videos or guides for this so if anyone can help me out that’d be great!
Also, do I need to remove the engine mount to replace the waterpump and the tensioners? I’m not gonna finish it in one afternoon probably so I wanted to avoid having to do this
Sidenote: I’m pretty new to the whole DIY thing so I don’t have much insight on how engines are built yet, which is why I don’t really understand this situation. I did replace the timing belt on my Peugeot 206 GTI, so I guess I kinda know what I’m doing lol
Battery replaced, alternator replaced, timing adjusted, it's been doing this for a while now. What could cause this?
It gets great mileage, barely consume any oil and starts like a charm even in -20 C. It's in great shape considering it's 20 years old and has lived all his life in mid Norway. Some rust in rear subframe but nothing that fluidfilm cannot contain. I got it for about 3k eur, did a full refresh of this car and now it's awesome. Just the random electric glitch from time to time but it's been 2 years without any major issue. Being a shitbox base model helps as there are less things to break.
Am I crazy for wanting to keep this beast for another 10 years? I think this might be the last of the good simple diesels, 1.9 BKC without DPF
Did a little car in cleaning today. Next will be intake manifold than some walnut planting.
Does anyone know what this noise might be
2014 tdi Passat.
Grade 8 I think m8x25-1.25
Have a little 1.6tdi 2010, have a suspected egr cooler leak, incredibly minor though. Was quoted around 600€ to replace the cooler including the part (Piersburg I believe) and labour. Does this seem right? Apparently the cooler on the car was done in 2014. I am definitely looking to keep this car for a long time (I mean forever), so buying something like a Piersburg cooler seems to be the right choice, but have seen great reviews on the Meat and Doria (for my car its 90€ while the piersburg is 250€).
Would appreciate anyone insight on this, have been putting this off for a while and can't seem to decide if I should change the EGR cooler or just blank the system/gut the cooler (worried about NCT).
Thank guys
Pretty simple. I moved to the other side of Appalachia and will be road tripping it a lot in my 2015 golf Sportwagen tdi. I’ve always heard it’s better to replace brakes than a transmission but these mountains are no joke! I’ve been using my brakes but my car has a dsg that can go into sequential shifting and has paddle shifters to downshift but I don’t know when I’m supposed to downshift or if I should in the first place.