u/EricHearble

We live in a rural area of Virginia - lots of pastures with cows. Our water comes from a county service authority, sourced from aquifers. There is no water tower anywhere around. Our pressure is lower than when we lived elsewhere. Our home was built in '97 and we've owned it for three years. It has a pump and pressure tank in the crawl space to boost pressure. When we run water long enough, we can hear the pump kick in. Once it builds up pressure, it cuts off.

When we bought the place, I contacted the water authority to set up our account. They didn't tell me when on the phone, but I needed to replay to an email to confirm. It went to a spam folder, so I didn't know I needed to confirm. So on the cancellation day that the former owners gave the authority, they came out and turned the water off. We showed up the next day and the pressure pump was running continuously. I turned it off and called the water folks and learned about the snafu. Fixed that and they came out and turned the water back on. That was three years ago.

We came home yesterday afternoon and the pressure pump was running continuously like that time three years ago. Opened a sink faucet and just got air. I went into the crawl space and switched off the pump. Called the water folks and learned that there was a break in a main about 2 miles from us. They had already fixed it. So I opened up hose spigots outside and they spewed lots of air until getting water. Took turns at each faucet indoors. When all were clear of air, I turned the pressure pump back on.

So that's a lot of background, but we still have a problem ... two faucets don't run at full volume anymore. One in the hall bathroom, and one of the two faucets on a double vanity in the master bathroom. The faucets flow as before when turned to the hot water, but only flow at a trickle on the cold side. Could there be some silt introduced into the system from the water main break and it would up clogging the two cold water supply lines at these tow sinks?

I'm considering closing off the supply valve, removing it from the faucet, and then using a union to attach a flexible supply line to run into bucket to wash out any clogs. If that doesn't work, maybe swap out the faucet. Am I on the right track?

And I think I will hire someone to add some kind of switch to that pump to turn it off when no pressure is detected upstream.

I'm new to selling on Reverb. Not a business, just downsizing my gear. Already sold a bunch of stomp boxes with buyer paid shipping, so I just used Reverb labels. I listed a guitar with free shipping to generate interest. Now it's sold and I need to decide on how to save cost on shipping label. I've got proper packaging and will pack it using Reverb's guidance.

I figured that if I buy the label myself, UPS is cheaper than FedEx or USPS. But would I be better off buying the label from Reverb? The only way I could figure what it might coast was to clone the listing as if I was selling another one. I put in the package size and weight and it came back with a range of $48.51 - $71.32 (I guess depending on zip codes). When I used the UPS site to calculate cost, it was $132 with $1000 insurance.

Is that $48.51 - $71.32 range legit? And they don't say what the Safe Shipping insurance would be other than "small fee". I saw on UPS site that the cost of insurance over the base $100 was only $16, so I guess Reverb won't scalp for their insurance?

Edit: After receiving helpful comments (all of them), I decided to go ahead and buy a UPS label through Reverb. I did consider Pirateship, creating an account and pricing a label for this guitar sale. It was about half the cost of buying directly from UPS. But after learning that labels bought on Reverb could be cancelled and refunded as long as not scanned by carriers, I checked the price. Buying the label on Reverb was only slightly more than Pirateship. I decided to spend a little more and get the Reverb label. This way if there was any damage or loss in shipping, I would be dealing with Reverb insurance and not Pirateship. I figure that Reverb might have more concerns for damage to a guitar that Pirateship might minimize. Hopefully, I won't find out if that is the case.

Previous owner of our home installed a couple of interior barn doors. I removed them and put normal swing doors back in. Thinking of what I can do with the track. Selling as scrap isn't worth the drive to the scrap dealer. No interest on FB marketplace.

In my shop, I've already repurposed some magnetic knife holders that were in the kitchen before we remodeled, using them over my workbench for lightweight tools like screwdrivers. So I'm thinking if I could magnetize the barn door tracks, it could be more tool racks over the bench. The tracks are basically long flat steel bars, about 2 inches wide and about 1/8 inch thick.

Is there a feasible way to magnetize the bars? I could cut them shorter if that helps. But if I need to buy some expensive equipment, it might just be cheaper to buy more of those knife holders. I read something about magnetizing nails by coiling copper wire on it and hooking it to a transformer. I do have an old transformer that I use to power a car stereo in my shop.

I have a 1997 American Standard Roadhouse that I bought new back in 1998. I'm planning on selling it - maybe on FB or ebay, or maybe take it to a local shop to see about consignment or outright sale. First, I was trying to settle on a price.

A search on Reverb for Roadhouse's between 1995 and 2001 some up with nine of them. The cheapest one at $500 is actually Mexican made, though it was tagged as made in USA. All of the others are listed at over $1100. Now I understand those are just asking prices. But is there some rule of thumb you might recommend on how much to discount from those asking prices? I certainly didn't pay four figures for it new, and wouldn't have expected to see it appreciate that much, though I won't complain if it did.