Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Sharing a quick update on the latest VS V2 Datejust collection.
The Datejust is one of those watches where the dial color completely changes the personality of the watch.
Mechanical watch discussions often include terms like “free-sprung,” “regulated,” “regulator,” and “balance wheel.”
And lately, “free-sprung movement” has almost become a selling point by itself.
But does free-sprung automatically mean better?
Not necessarily.
Today, let’s look at what these two systems actually do and why the difference matters.
At the heart of a mechanical movement is the balance wheel and hairspring.
The balance oscillates back and forth at a controlled frequency, effectively acting as the movement’s timekeeping reference.
If that oscillation changes slightly, the watch may begin running faster or slower.
So watchmakers need a way to regulate the oscillator.
This is where regulated and free-sprung systems take different approaches.
A traditional regulated movement usually uses a regulator mechanism to change the effective working length of the hairspring.
In simple terms:
Shorter effective hairspring → generally faster rate
Longer effective hairspring → generally slower rate
The regulator allows a watchmaker to make relatively straightforward rate adjustments.
This design has been used successfully for generations and can be found in everything from affordable mechanical movements to some very respectable high-end calibers.
Advantages
• Relatively straightforward to regulate
• Easier for many watchmakers to service
• Proven and mature design
• Fine rate adjustments can be convenient
Disadvantages
The hairspring interacts with a regulating system, so its effective length is part of the adjustment process.
The quality of the regulator, hairspring geometry, adjustment and assembly therefore matters considerably.
A free-sprung balance removes the conventional regulator pins used to alter the effective hairspring length.
Instead, the hairspring is allowed to “breathe” more freely, while the rate is adjusted by changing the inertia of the balance wheel.
This is commonly achieved through adjustable weights or screws positioned on the balance.
Think of it this way:
A regulated system primarily adjusts the spring.
A free-sprung system primarily adjusts the balance wheel.
That is the fundamental difference.
There are several potential advantages.
More consistent hairspring geometry
Because there is no traditional regulator altering the active length of the hairspring, the spring can expand and contract more symmetrically when properly designed and adjusted.
Better resistance to accidental regulator movement
A conventional regulator can potentially be displaced by impact or improper handling.
A free-sprung balance does not rely on that type of regulator.
Greater potential for positional stability
With good engineering and careful adjustment, a free-sprung system can offer excellent stability across different positions.
This is one reason the architecture appears in many modern high-end movements.
But there is an important word here:
Potential.
This is probably the biggest misunderstanding.
A poorly manufactured or poorly adjusted free-sprung movement can perform worse than a well-made regulated movement.
Accuracy depends on much more than the balance architecture:
• Hairspring quality
• Balance poise
• Escapement geometry
• Lubrication
• Manufacturing tolerances
• Assembly quality
• Beat error
• Amplitude
• Positional adjustment
• Magnetism
• Overall movement condition
So:
Free-Sprung ≠ Automatically Accurate
and
Regulated ≠ Cheap or Inferior
Movement architecture gives us information about the design.
It does not tell us the complete quality of the movement.
This is one of the trade-offs people sometimes overlook.
With many regulated movements, a watchmaker can adjust the regulator to alter the rate relatively conveniently.
A free-sprung system requires adjustment of the balance’s inertia.
That can involve extremely small changes to the balance weights.
The adjustment must also preserve the balance wheel's poise.
For that reason, proper regulation can require more skill, appropriate equipment and more time.
So from a servicing perspective:
More sophisticated doesn't always mean easier to maintain.
You'll sometimes hear:
“Free-sprung movements are shockproof.”
That's an exaggeration.
A free-sprung design removes the possibility of a conventional regulator being accidentally shifted, which can be beneficial.
But the movement still contains delicate components.
The balance staff, pivots, hairspring, jewels and escapement can still be affected by severe impacts.
A mechanical watch is still a mechanical watch.
Instead of asking only:
“Is it free-sprung?”
I think the better questions are:
How stable is the amplitude?
How large is the positional variation?
How consistent is the rate over the power reserve?
How well is the balance adjusted?
How reliable is the movement over time?
How easy is it to service and obtain parts for?
Those answers tell you much more about a movement than one feature on a specification sheet.
Free-Sprung vs Regulated — Quick Summary
Regulated Movement
Uses a regulator to alter the effective hairspring length.
Advantages:
Easy adjustment, mature design, widely serviceable.
Potential weakness:
The regulator and hairspring interaction adds another variable to the oscillator.
Free-Sprung Movement
Uses balance inertia rather than conventional hairspring-length regulation.
Advantages:
Potentially better oscillator stability, no conventional regulator to shift, sophisticated architecture.
Potential weakness:
More difficult to regulate correctly and requires good manufacturing and adjustment to realize its advantages.
Final Take
A free-sprung balance is a technically interesting and potentially excellent solution, but it should never be treated as a guarantee of movement quality.
A well-built regulated movement can easily outperform a poorly executed free-sprung one.
When evaluating a mechanical movement, the better question isn't:
“Does it have a free-sprung balance?”
It's:
“How well is the entire movement designed, manufactured, adjusted and serviced?”
That distinction matters much more.
💬 Which would you prefer: a well-proven regulated movement or a newer free-sprung design?
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Continuing my weekly comparison series, this week I’m taking a look at the classic Rolex Datejust 41 Green Dial (126334).
The green Datejust has become one of the most popular modern Datejust configurations, mainly because of its sunburst green dial and the way the color changes under different lighting conditions.
For this comparison, I wanted to put several different movement setups side by side:
VSF – VS3235 movement
CleanPlus – DD3235 movement
Gold – DD3235 movement
ERF – JH3235 Free Sprung movement
For reference, the genuine Datejust 41 comes with a 41mm case size, and the weight varies depending on bracelet configuration.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Today I wanted to share the latest MZ IWC Ingenieur lineup.
This new batch comes with an upgraded Swiss movement version, which makes the whole release much more interesting compared with the earlier market versions.
The Ingenieur has always been a very underrated design in my opinion. It has a clean integrated bracelet look, a sporty case shape, and a dial texture that feels very different from the usual Rolex, AP, or VC styles.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Recently, EthanMod has been working on more finishing upgrades, especially polishing and chamfering projects.
For many watches, the overall factory quality is already good, but small details like case edges, bracelet comfort, and light reflection can still be improved with careful hand-finishing.
So this time, I’m running a small EthanMod event for RICH Factory pieces.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
After APS disappeared from the market, a lot of AP collectors started looking at other options like ZF, OCTA, THB, and different newer releases.
But recently, something interesting happened — the last remaining APS stock that had been sitting in storage has finally surfaced.
Since APS has already stopped production, these pieces feel a little different now. They are not just regular factory watches anymore, but more like the final chapter of a factory that many AP fans were very familiar with.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Today I wanted to share something a little different from the usual sports watch lineup — the PPF Patek Philippe 6102 Celestial Diamond Bezel Edition.
The 6102 has always been one of the most visually unique designs, and this version really leans into that astronomical theme.
The dial is definitely the highlight here.
You get the starry sky, moon phase display, Milky Way effect, and layered sapphire dial construction, which gives the whole watch a much deeper visual feeling compared to a flat printed dial.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Continuing my weekly comparison series, this week I'm taking a look at one of the hottest GMT models right now — the GMT-Master II "Bruce Wayne" (Ref. 126710GRNR).
This time I thought it would be interesting to include the gen alongside three popular versions currently getting attention in the community.
For reference, the genuine 126710GRNR features:
• 40mm case size
• Rolex Cal.3285 movement
• Grey / Black Cerachrom bezel
• Jubilee bracelet
The versions here are:
• Gen
• RICH – JH3285 Free Sprung Movement
• VSF – DD3285
• ARF – DD3285
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Spent some time taking a few wrist shots of different VSF Datejust 36mm configurations today.
One thing I really like about the 36mm Datejust is how versatile it is. The size wears comfortably on almost any wrist, and the dial choice completely changes the personality of the watch.
Today's lineup includes:
🔹 Black Dial
🔹 Green Dial
🔹 Blue Dial
🔹 Wimbledon Dial
Under natural light, each dial has a very different character. The blue feels classic, the green stands out a little more, the black stays clean and understated, while Wimbledon remains one of the most recognizable Datejust configurations.
Personally, I still think the 36mm case has some of the best proportions in the entire Datejust lineup.
💬 If you could only pick one, which dial would you wear every day?
Blue, Green, Black, or Wimbledon?
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Sharing some VSF Ombré Green Datejust pieces today in both 36mm and 41mm sizes.
The Ombré Green dial is one of those configurations that looks completely different depending on lighting. Under sunlight, the center of the dial becomes much brighter while the outer edge stays dark, creating a really nice gradient effect.
Personally, I think it's one of the most interesting Datejust dial options available right now.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
This week I wanted to do something a little different.
Instead of only comparing factory versions, I also added the gen Starbucks Submariner 126610LV into the lineup so the differences between MKI and MKII bezel generations can be seen more clearly side by side
The versions here are:
• Gen — MKII bezel
• RF — MKII bezel, JH3235 free sprung movement
• ERF — MKII bezel, JH3235 free sprung movement
• VSF — MKI bezel, DD3235 movement
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Sharing a few VS weighted Day-Date pieces today.
One thing I’ve noticed recently is that more people are starting to pay attention to the overall feel and wrist weight of Day-Date builds — not just the dial color anymore.
Sharing one of the newer VS Datejust gradient green dial versions today.
This is honestly one of those watches that looks completely different depending on lighting conditions. Indoors it can look darker and more subtle, while under sunlight the green really comes alive.
Recently, VS has definitely improved this gradient green tone compared to some older batches that looked too olive-heavy.
Hi everyone, Ethan here 👋
Sharing something a little different today —
custom GMT-Master II grey meteorite dials now available and ready for immediate swap. 🌌
Recently received multiple new meteorite dial variations, and honestly the texture on these looks really impressive under natural light.
The grey tone keeps it clean and wearable, while the meteorite pattern gives every dial a unique look.
🔍 Details
• Custom Grey Meteorite Dial
Natural meteorite-style texture with visible layered patterns throughout the dial.
Different lighting angles bring out different details, making each piece feel slightly unique.
• Compatible With GMT-Master II Builds
Can be installed on multiple GMT configurations including:
Grey/Black bezel
Pepsi
Sprite
Batman/Batgirl setups
• Ready To Swap
Dials are currently in stock and can be swapped immediately without waiting for custom production time.
• Visual Style
Compared to standard black dials, this one gives a more premium and collectible feel while still staying relatively low-key on wrist.
📸 More close-up detail pictures and installation examples available through WA.
Sharing a really interesting piece today — GMT-Master II Meteorite Dial with Grey/Black Bezel 🌑
Meteorite dials always hit different, and this one has that raw, textured look that’s hard to replicate.