u/ExerciseOutside5081

Q1: Did you tent camp before owning your pop-up and if so, do you find yourself camping more frequently or for longer durations with the pop-up?

Q2: Has anyone here tried hauling a very small pop-up with a minivan (mine is 2015 Sienna, which has a basic tow prep package)? I'm concerned about tongue weight specifically even with a 1400 pound (dry) pop up. Should I avoid doing this? I'm a little concerned also about the hitch, as it is an after-market with 2 inch uhaul receiver - it runs just under the bumper and at the wrong aggressive angle, I can grind it on pavement in reverse.

Thanks!

Just to deter critters tunneling. Still have skids and wooden floor of shed.

12x16 shed. Much cheaper for gravel foundation but I've been worried about critters tunneling through the gravel. What if I take a hybrid approach and just mix in a little dry set quickkrete with the base gravel? After tamped, spray it down with a hose, tamp again and add some more base as needed. Just enough to form strength that would discourage creatures digging through the base.

Any drawbacks? Waste of effort?

I'm so conflicted on gravel vs. concrete base.

Concrete doubles my cost, as I'd be getting a sidewalk done at the same time, which I don't technically need (but really want and is cheapest to do in conjunction with the shed base). Gravel seems like a decent option, but several people have warned me against it.

I can afford concrete, but I have a wife and 3 young kids on a single income so there's so many other things I could save for or spend on. Just need to gauge if it's worth it. I wish someone would just tell me what to do at this point.

Thanks!

I want to have a sidewalk installed - it will have a slope from front of house to rear of house, totaling 1.5 to 2 feet difference over 40 feet. I want to put my AC condensor on it and bump out the sidewalk in that spot to walk around the condensor.

The sidewalk is effectively "dual beveled" ie sloped toward back of house and gentle slope away from house for water drainage.

Should I have contractor pour a special level chunk/pad just for the unit, or can I find a levelable stand/base for the unit? I'm reluctant to have a level section of concrete as water needs to slope away from house and leveling a section increases the slope of the other sections. Also, cost considerations.

This is a lengthy post - I'm just laying it all out here for feedback, thanks for your time.

Location:

I am having a Norway maple (very shallow root system) removed exactly where I want to place the shed. It is the best location, unfortunately. I am paying the tree removal company to aggressively stump grind - and will have them grind down the entire footprint of the shed + 1 foot on all sides. My concern is - there will almost certainly still be some amount of roots left in the ground that, as they decompose, will cause the ground to settle. I observed this in a previous (much larger) tree I had removed. The norway maple is about 1.5 feet in diameter and unhealthy, so it's coming out regardless. Is this a foolish move to build here, or should the grinding mitigate the issue enough?

One consideration here - if I went with concrete, then the contractor would likely scoop out another 4 inches or so for base/concrete, so potentially mitigating the root decomposing issue further.

Lastly, this spot is slightly in an easement, so anything permanently attached to concrete is a mild risk. I think it only overlaps easement by a couple feet as there is a power line about 15 to 20 horizontal feet away. So perhaps, it's more wise to keep the shed on skids, even if I use concrete foundation?

Foundation:

I've talked with neighbors who have gravel foundations for their sheds, and each has wished they had concrete. I don't want to pay for the concrete, but I was thinking if I do concrete - it could last 30+ years, ie invest more in the foundation as something "permanent" and view the shed as something that may need replaced in the future. A few specific questions on concrete:

• Dimensions? One contractor says, if the shed walls will be attached to the foundation, then make the 12x16 shed foundation 1 inch shorter in each direction. I just want to make sure this is a good plan in case a different builder is used in the future, or if I decide to keep the shed on wooden skids due to the easement location.
• I'm thinking 5 inch thickness + "rebar" ie welded wire mesh.
• Is it worth including a concrete ramp?

One alternative - I do the cheaper gravel foundation for now, build on skids and replace with concrete in the future if I find the need/desire?

Shed:

I've gotten estimates - I really don't want to spend more than $9,000 all in, which is already more than I want to spend. I basically have two alternatives, both from reputable well-reviewed shed builders:

• Option 1 (nice shed, gravel foundation: $9000)
  • Shed: $8400, gravel foundation $600. All in, $9,000 for 12x16. (I diy the gravel foundation).
  • This would be a nice shed with Vinyl siding + metal roof. The local builder has an excellent reputation, but they charge for it. I love the idea of vinyl siding so it doesn't need repainted.
  • Just seems silly to buy a rolls royce shed and put it on a gravel foundation.
• Option 2 (cheaper but good shed, concrete foundation: $9000)
  • Shed: $6000, concrete foundation $3000. All in, $9000 for 12x16. No DIY.
  • Standard gable shed, 16 inch on center construction, painted, standard asphalt shingle roof.

Thanks for any insights!

I am having my two car garage concrete replaced. What special requirements do I need to call out in the contract?

Does it need wire mesh or can it be just the concrete? Power troweled? Moisture barrier? Slope toward garage door?

Thanks