u/FAMICOMASTER

Digging through a forgotten bin out back at the local junk store and stumbled across most of a step by step switch! The date code on the back says 1949. Other than some minor physical damage and missing the actual contacts which I swear I saw previously, it appears to all be here.

50 bucks is not so bad for a local find.

What do you think? Anything good thoughts on how to hitch this thing up and make it do interesting stuff?

Just recently finished putting this thing back together. This is a mishmash of some unusual upgrades I had laying around, a drop-in 386 replacement motherboard with VLB, a 486DLC/40 that drops into a 386 board, a ULSI 487 coprocessor upgrade, and an 8514 compatible ATi Graphics Ultra.

It's complemented with maxed memory, 32 megs of RAM and 256K L2 cache with the largest tag RAM chip.

Fixed storage is provided by a DTC 7287 RLL controller driving a Micropolis 1325, for a whole 100 megs on disk.

The whole shebang runs Windows 95 pretty acceptably, but honestly this isn't really enough disk space. I/O performance is otherwise totally adequate, as this was quite a fast combination when it was new.

Behold, 95 on an XT! Sort of.

This is actually a drop in replacement board for an XT which gives you a 386 with VLB. I've actually gone a step further and thrown a Ti 486DLC/40 in it for good measure. With the sheer unbridled horsepower of a 40MHz 486 and 32 whole megs, this thing might be "tolerable" to use!
Some additional performance enhancing objects include 256K of L2 cache, an ATi Graphics Ultra Mach8 accelerated video adapter, and a DTC 7287 RLL controller to drive the Micropolis 1325 hard disk. A whole 110 megs on this sucker!

Sorry about the mismatched faceplate around the second floppy drive. All I had left was white and grey when I put this thing together!

Pictured without it's CRT as I was still opening and closing the case to make configuration changes at the time of the photo.

Never seen one of these miniature dials before. It needs oiled for sure. Talk / monitor switch seems okay. The bed of nails looks great on both clamps. Would love to know what model this is, but I'm probably just going to clamp it onto a bare pair off my Teltone to try it.

Got this thing for $40 today along with the Western 223G three slot I posted earlier. It appears that the bells are missing and the handset cord was cut, but I don't see a reason I can't fix that. Shame about the bells though. Dial seems to work perfect. When I get home from vacation, if someone can find me a diagram I'll give it a try on my PBX.

Picked this three slot up at an antique store for just $35. Handset is in okay shape, cord is still attached, dial turns and ticks as it should. No keys but can't complain for this price!

Can't wait to get it home and start setting it up.

Hello folks, got an unusual one here. This is a Canon GP200 photocopier from 1996 which I recently resurrected from the dead. I've adjusted the copy quality to the point it looks pretty good to my eye, but I've noticed something odd, the prints and copies both have a "noisy" look to them. It's visible in the location of the cyan stripe on the copy (left) and there are small dots across the whole page in the background. Machine has a new drum and cleaning blade, toner stir done, paper dehumidified, 96 bright Hammer Mill 20 pound stock. I thought it might be the CCD picking up noise from low light but increasing the current through the scanning lamp didn't really make any appreciable difference to the noise. All shielding is in place as it was from the factory.

What am I missing here? Feels like transfer voltage is too high somewhere but it's set exactly the way Canon recommends it be set via the service manual, I.E. entered from the label on the power supply.

Any recommendations?

A friend of mine owns a Sharp AR-M317 mono copier which had some quality issues. After replacing the drum & blade and doing a toner stir, the quality is worse, with prints being extremely light and uneven.

I was not present for the installation of the replacement drum and blade but they look like they were installed correctly to me. The dust proof glass is clean and the developing cylinder appears to have an even coat all the way across.

Do Sharp machines of this era have a transfer roller cleaning process? Is it possible to safely clean it otherwise if not? What about the charge roller?

Thoughts are appreciated, thanks.

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Hello folks. Today I picked up a very well optioned Canon GP200 for the collection and got it home. Knew it had some issues but it was free and it's a chassis style I very much like. Machine has a DADF (RDF-G1) and a 10 bin sorter / stapler, neither of which worked initially. I tracked this down to a faulty accessory power supply (0VDC on the 24VDC line) and substituted it with a Meanwell 24VDC supply. This brought both back to life fully, and the machine was able to perform all operations perfectly fine, but attempting to staple resulted in a staple jam. While clearing the staple jam, the machine went to sleep and the light on the sorter and the light on the DADF started rapidly flashing. Pressing the power key did not bring the machine out of sleep. Power cycling the machine did not bring it back. Disconnecting the DADF and sorter then power cycling again did not bring the machine back. I get the power LED but no movement from the machine and no light from the display.

Did I just wreck this machine by replacing a 24V supply with a 24V supply? I'm not sure how that would happen exactly.

Please help if able. I'll be very sad if I just did a 7 hour day getting this thing out of someone's basement and up 3 flights of stairs, driving across state lines, and then spending another 3 hours tracing and subbing a bad power supply.