u/Fearless_Spare_9836

How short do i have to cut these exhaust rubber tubes because i assume i cant have it acting as a major expressway for the hot gasses but i do need it to be somewhat long so i can re-route the downward angle of the zdx65 pipe. The pipe in its stock position as it sits without a silencer would spit hot gasses and exhaust straight at my rear tire. So i need it to be long enough to route the zdx65 back tube, around/through my pedal chainguard and up to where my silencer slip on will be connected to the rear chainstay/arm. The kit didn’t come with anything to clamp sonimma have to use plastic zip ties 🤦‍♂️ 🤦‍♂️ 🫣🫣

Okay so if you look at this video you can see the axle for my pedals is in the way of the motor, i tried flipping the pipe and thats a dumbass move, i tried shifting around the motor mount, and finally i tried tilting the motor forwards and backwards. Tiliting it backwards was the only possible hope but still not enough elevation, just like a fuckin centimeter off when motor mount is as far back on the down tube as possible. I thought about cutting the header pipe and re-welding but that would fuck up the timing of the pipe….. wtf do i do now. Return the pipe?

So ive been through about 2 and a half tanks of the 2 liter stock running a probably fucked up fuel ratio. Pushing 28 tooth in the back to clear my chain/seat stays. Unfortunately on top of my poor estimate on fuel ratio i have had a carb issue that someone in another post identified as a carb/intake air leak: i can’t run the bike off of choke. So for starters if you can help me figure out exact steps to diagnosing that would be wicked so i can finally get a clean idle.

Otherwise break in has been okay. On my second tank i did remove the exhaust baffle/tip as mentioned in another post (got me pulled over but thank heavens i didn’t get it impounded). I did run it baffle off once or twice more just trying to impress or get the extra torque and top end it provides. I do plan to buy either a real reproduction or engine specific clone MZ65 pipe and slip on silencer with maybe a custom welded or flex pipe extension to the silencer. But first just wondering if running the baffle out fucked up my break in (i couldn’t resist the sound and the 30mph stock). I also have a dual spark head/cdi im waiting to put on for when i have the exhaust in. Other than that i think im solid for now unless anyone knows anything about mid drive ebike conversions (gunna turn it into a tri-brid)

Got pulled over last night after removing the exhaust baffle on my micargi cruiser, got ticketed for “unregistered limited use moped”…… tf bro. Told me it had to be registered, and then i asked how i do that and they said “impossible”……. TF?!? I live in wny (not one of the good counties). How do i navigate this? Pedal out of the town i got pulled over in before starting the engine? Is there a way to get this registered? What should i do?

I posted another crosspost on all the motor bicycle communities about this and how we got here. Summary: shitty stock hardware….. i bought new m6x1.0 20mm hex cap nuts that are identical accept being matte black steel instead of cnc or shiny cheap chinesium (i hope… i got them at home depot). I went to use channel locks and wd40 to try and remove the snapped off exhaust bolt but it snapped further………. I have a filing set, could i try and make a philips head or something or and i basically fucked at this point? Tap and drill? Re thread? Im new to all this, terrified i just fucked my motor up after only 2 days of riding…..

Firstly there are issues with the chain alignment, tension and rubbing. i broke one chain on less than 15-20 miles of motor break in riding. (nearly enough to total the stock chain and move to my backup). Then the gasket that came with my exhaust was shit and it had a rip, i had no choice at the time so i rode with it anyways. It promptly blew the fuck up and left only a piece on the right bolt…. More on that later. Barely broken in the motor and now the exhaust started to bow outward at the face that rests on the motor port and gasket. Also because of this violent opening ive been having trouble with my carb. Cant turn off choke or it wont run and i assume thats my idle or my air leak over the exhaust port. Then there is the fact that the violent opening and re-opening of the exhaust port twisted my exhaust bolts and now one of my bolt heads snapped off during removal. I don’t wanna use a bolt extractor or retap if i dont have too but clearly the stock bolts are made of shit metal and they are really heat twisted and this one was DEFINITELY stuck when i broke it just now. Still had a little forward play screwing back into the motor but its stripped or something on those last couple threads idk what to do now…

To be fair i don’t own any calipers and that is part of what is getting me into trouble. But i have now bought 2-3 hub mounts/adapters and 2 motor mounts both of which had to be returned for too big and too small. I guess my downtube is smaller than 1.65 inches, and its bigger than 1 inch. Same goes for the rear hub adapter. I can get more exact pics (using the string trick) when I get home to help anyone better understand. Is there any way i can use the disc brake hub adapter to connect a sprocket? I believe it has 6 screw holes. PICTURES HERE

I bought a proper 3 arm hub mount for the sprocket but i tested the fit of the sprocket while i am waiting and i see now that when i line the wheel up to where it needs to be, the caliper arm for the brake pushes the sprocket into the spokes. Should i just remove the rear brake? Maybe get front hydraulic?? I can keep the rear disc itself as a chain stop over the sprocket maybe?

I mentioned the stretch cruiser in general in another post and someone mentioned that if i used a v-mount for those chopper bikes like this one: https://a.co/d/07yk2eS3 That i would be safer and possibly welding it if modifying the baseplate of the mount was not sufficient. I was curious though after finding this weld in the seat post if that changes things because i was going to break the engine in on the stock kit mounts at the rear triangle but thats directly over the problematic weld 🕳. Luckily the company did mistakenly send me two frames and the second one is much better. I was only concerned because of the ai response (i know next to nothing about Automotive mechanics/engineering and would like to learn) stating that vibrations are what is the key killer of these bicycle frames when doing these builds and i would be dailying this bike about 31 minutes by pedal or 5 miles there and back everyday. The second frame was going to be my gal’s for an ebike but perhaps i should swap frames/projects.

My kill switch cables are too short for my stretch cruiser frame shown in picture. I don’t know where to find a way longer one or the right stuff to extend the connections.