





I wanted to share the solution I came up with to prevent my gaz tank to crack from Vibrations.
It takes 2 mounting hardware kits but I think at this point we all have more than one. I placed another holding bracket under the one on the photos
The Idea is to spread the load on the tank a little more an put the stress on the stud directly instead to put it on the cheap spotweld that hold the stud.
So far its been 5 months with this setup and I don't think it will leak or crack for a while.
Do you have other tricks? I'm curious to see your fixes or work around
Loving the Gemini wheels and Menace 85 from Smolik. Mikuni VM18 seems like the perfect carb too :)
Pretty much love in this thing and very stoked to dial it in the way that I want it to be. I was on marketplace a few months ago while on a break at work and saw a guy that was selling a beach cruiser motorbike that wouldn’t run for 25 bucks. I messaged him and told him I could come get it at lunchtime and that I was 100% definitely gonna buy it and he held it for me and I took a long lunch break went scooped the thing. Note.- the only thing on this build that was from the bike that I bought for 25 bucks is the engine kit chain and all that everything basically besides the bicycle then I swapped it over to this frame that I bought from another dude on marketplace, which is actually super sick because it has the longer frame and I had the ape hangers that came with it. Anyways, I picked up this stainless steel water bottle and turned it into a gas tank. I just have yet to mount it due to the Petcock kinda sitting in a weird spot when I put the bottle where I want it to be. Just wanted to share cause I think this thing’s bad ass and some of you guys got some really sick stuff too. I love bikes so this is definitely a solid hobby and budget friendly.
Third time in two months I've had a rack bolt back itself loose on my friction drive setup. Running a 66cc on a beach cruiser frame, roller pressed against the rear tire sidewall, and whatever vibration that setup creates seems to march straight into the rear rack mounts no matter how tight I get them.
First time I chalked it up to just not torquing it enough. Second time I switched to nylock nuts thinking that would solve it. Still had one work its way out on a pothole heavy road about three weeks ago and almost lost my saddlebag off the back. Not fun realizing that mid ride.
What I'm doing now is a combination of blue Loctite on the threads plus actual lock washers under the nylocks, and so far that's held for about 250 miles without issue. Also went back and re-checked every other bolt on the bike while I was at it, engine mounts, chain tensioner, throttle housing, and found two more that were looser than I expected. Kind of a wake up call honestly, I'd been assuming things were fine just because the bike ran smooth.
Curious what other friction drive guys are doing for hardware on the rack and fender mounts specifically, since those seem to catch more of the buzz than the frame itself. Wondering if anyone's tried rubber isolation washers or if that's overkill for a bolt-on rack.
bought a motorized bike for 60$ because i wanted to get into this hobby (probably the worst way to get into it)
guy said it had a 80 cc kit from amazon and hasnt ran in a year
i am planning to fix all the issues on it and ride it
for now the bucking bar, clutch cam and the gas tank have to be replaced
is there stuff i gotta lookout for these used engines??
My LD80 started doing this weird thing where the idle hangs pretty high only when I'm going 45-50 km/h and above. It hangs for a few seconds and then goes down to a normal idle. If I'm going slower than 45, it goes down to idle normally, without hanging. I tried spraying around every gasket and it doesn't seem like it has any air leaks. Any idea what it could be?
i bought an b6hs bc the z8c is complete bullshit and i just cant screw in the 21mm hex. What should i do?
Has anyone here put an engine on an e bike?
I feel like a predator 79cc would probably fit the frame with some adjustments
What it looks like I’m going to have to do is remove all the wires electric motor controller and replace the rear wheel with a regular wheel
I wonder if I could just hollow out the motor and use it as a big wheel bearing but idk if it’s even with doing
But I do think it would be very worth it in the end but I also wonder if the frame would even hold up to 3.5 horsepower.. probably would 🤔
How short do i have to cut these exhaust rubber tubes because i assume i cant have it acting as a major expressway for the hot gasses but i do need it to be somewhat long so i can re-route the downward angle of the zdx65 pipe. The pipe in its stock position as it sits without a silencer would spit hot gasses and exhaust straight at my rear tire. So i need it to be long enough to route the zdx65 back tube, around/through my pedal chainguard and up to where my silencer slip on will be connected to the rear chainstay/arm. The kit didn’t come with anything to clamp sonimma have to use plastic zip ties 🤦♂️ 🤦♂️ 🫣🫣
IF someone is going to run a chain tensioner there is literally only one version that should be considered and its sold everywhere, even at Walmart for a mere $20 bucks. Save your skin for cheap. There are no other tensioners that have the safety features we need.
As the title says, in my attempts to fix it, I've replaced the CDI and have a new spark plug in it... Good compression. Has anybody dealt with this? I'm running out of ideas, someone please advise! I'd really appreciate it!
It’s the 100cc 4 stroke from Amazon she does pretty good
Hello i dont have professional products to measure the stuff on my ld80 so can you guys tell me which measure they have? All ld80s must be the same right? I need: bore in mm, stroke mm, connecting rod lenght, piston weight, small end weight, big end weight. Thanks
Does any body know anywhere other then bike berry cause they are out of stock
I want to assemble a motorized bicycle using the honda gx35 engine. I’m pretty new to this but so far my understanding is i need a gear reduction system and a way to connect the throttle to the engine. I’m confused as to how i should go about this and which parts to use.
Edit: I am trying to make a chain drive build not a friction drive build.
Ive been running an ~18:1 oil mix. Top outs wouldnt be longer than a minute, 2 mins at a time. That just means full throttle down the road. What should a (let me emphasize) reasonable break in period treatment look like and what am i messing up by not going easy during my break in. (Btw i just learned fenders are no-no, apparently, so yes ill get on that)
Thanks yall! This project is so fun!
Bought my kit and found a freebie Magna Fix-D. Had to repack all the bearings, and replace the free gear on the pedal side. Struggling with the chain alignment due to an oval shaped chain stay that forces the chain tensioner assembly to rotate outwards as it conforms to the oval shape. Ordered some alternative chain tensioners to try out, also considering bending this one to
Got it running on some 20ish:1, moved the air screw about 3 turns and it worked on the first clutch drop without choke. The chain is terrifying as I heard a few clunks from the alignment worsening under load. Held the clutch in and walked it home to be safe. definitely going to wait to install any type of fender system. I'd rather take a chain to my leg than a fender to an artery. Motor ran great otherwise! (Full bike shot taken before completion btw)
Any and all tips appreciated.