u/Fill-Quick

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My brake sensor is going crazy on my set less than a year old, Logitech is sending a new set but since I can't race on the rig figured I'd go through my replays for some clean passes. Most of the vids are from 700pp, sport soft (one 615pp, Civic). Hope you enjoy!

As a longtime gamer who started with Sega and Windows 95, and then moved on to the PlayStation series, I'm absolutely blown away by this experience. Thinking back to games like Independence Day on the original PlayStation (which honestly looked incredible on console at the time) and Ace Combat on the PS3, what we have now is just unbelievable.

I have over 3k hours in GT7, majority VR only and no HUD. I'm enamored with the realism so much so I've bought a full on sim rig/wheel. Since that pairing, I haven't played much of anything else. When MSFT was announced with VR support I knew it would be a day one purchase.... Then the beta came out and ppl said it was a blurry mess to put it kindly. I didn't want to drop $100 for what I felt was an unfinished product, decided to wait.

Well, with news of this latest update essentially fixing and dare I say surpassing GT7 in certain aspects, I was extremely curious. Well yesterday with the summer price discount I decided to pull the trigger...

You only get one chance for your first lol so I decided to fly from a local airport with live weather since it was a beautiful day and fly to Mt.Ranier during sunset. And OMG. It nearly brought me to tears and felt as close as I've ever been to an uncanny valley feeling. Yes, cities and buildings can be low res but the landscape, environment, weather... It blows anything GT7 has going in those areas and surreal how realistic it can feel (with good elevation especially).

It was well worth the $100 but most importantly I'm happy I waited. Thanks for everyone that shared their experiences, this will be incredible to share with my family.

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If you just switched to Manual, stop staring at the HUD. The flashing red shift indicator is a trap. It doesn't care where your car actually makes its power; it just flashes at the engine's redline. If you are running power restrictors or heavy V8s, waiting for that light is actively killing your lap times.

Before you leave the garage, open your Car Settings, look at the engine graph, and map out your Usable Powerband.

In the video look at my tachometer throughout, recognize how I'm using the philosophy below. Here is how to read it, using my restricted LT1 Camaro as the baseline:

1. The "Shift-Out" Point (Stop banging the limiter)

Look at your blue HP curve. On my build, power peaks and then drops off a cliff at 6900 RPM. The redline is higher, but if I wait for the HUD to flash, the engine chokes itself for a full second. Find where your HP actually dips, and make that your definitive shift point. Ride the wave, but shift before the fade.

2. The Torque Drop (Why close gears can make you slower)

HP gives you top speed, but Torque pulls you out of corners. Look at your grey Torque line. My absolute peak torque sits at **5300 RPM**. If you pack your custom gears too tight, an upshift might only drop you to 6000 RPM. You are completely skipping your engine's strongest muscle. Space your gears so that when you upshift, the needle drops directly onto your torque peak.

3. The Mid-Corner Short-Shift (Organic Traction Control)

When you are turning, your rear tires have limited grip. If you stay in a low gear through a corner, you are sitting right on top of your volatile torque peak—the moment you touch the gas, you spin.

Instead, deliberately upshift early (short-shift) down to a lower range (like 4400 RPM). This drops the engine out of the aggressive torque peak, smoothing out the power delivery. It acts as a manual Traction Control system. As you straighten the wheel on exit, the RPMs naturally climb right back into the sweet spot

TL;DR: The HUD is blind. Use the dyno graph to find your torque peak, map your true shift-out point, use short-shifts for mid-corner grip, and stop letting the red light dictate how you drive.

1. You have to nail the start, minimal wheel spin. I only play with 0 TCS so not easy but required to make a pass attempt by or on T10 (Bruxelles), with that in mind take Eau Rouge all out; non negotiable.

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2. Time your passes just past their braking markers, you can pass underneath, the car has the aero for the move.

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3. Maintain throttle throughout the majority of your turns for maximizing downforce.

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4. Aim to pass the blue RCZ by or on T15 (Stagelot), the rest of the field should be cake.

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5. You can use my braking markers in the video, I'm more instinctual than strict braking markers but it worked for 1st.

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Completed in 3:16, could push for more but enough for gold

After logging 2k hours and over 2,500 podiums, mostly in tuning lobbies, I've learned a hard truth: chasing peak HP and slapping on ballast to fit a PP limit is a trap.

You need to prioritize grip, chassis balance, and a tuned transmission.

Especially in 700PP, you'll notice that the guys who are rockets on the straights are usually parking it in the corners or braking very early. GT7 tracks have significantly more corners than straights, which means one simple rule dictates the winner: The highest top speed does not win the race; the highest average speed does.

Dropping ballast weight and powerband sculpting (detuning for a broader torque curve) will win you more races than just throwing HP at the car and adding weight to counter the PP penalty.

Simply put: You might earn a 10 mph advantage on a track's 3 straights (+30), but you are bleeding 3 mph across its 12 different corners (-36). The lighter, balanced chassis takes the win nearly every time. It's a longer learning curve but prioritizing tuning for balance will yield some surprising results.