u/Fit-Box888

I used Everlast paint to paint my house 10 years ago and it still looks great. The paint went on smooth, no peeling, and looks clean all the time, even after 10 years. I can't imagine anything else doing much better as this looks great, so what's the problem with it?

I bring this up because I have to touch up some trim and soffit that was changed and I looked through my old paint and found that I actually used the less expensive Valspar Duramax paint for that. Most of that hasn't been painted in over 15 years and while the trim looks fine, the soffit looks dirty in some places, but I never wash it or anything. Anyways, still for that long, I think it looks good.

I do have a nearly full gallon of the Duramax but it is dated 2017 and even though it looks OK, I don't want to have to worry about having to redo this soffit in case this is bad so I better buy some new paint.

TLDR: Convince me why I shouldn't buy that same Valspar paint for the soffit. I don't care either way, just trying to learn here.

Sorry for this basic question, but I see all the time to spot prime something, like a patched nail hole. What exactly does that mean? Do you just apply a dab of primer to the nail hole filler area, and if so how do you apply it? I am just thinking about a piece of trim that is already painted, then nailed in place with the holes patched. How do you prime that hole and then can you just brush a bit of paint over that small area afterwards, or do you need to paint the whole thing?

I got my hardwoods refinished and stained along with adding some new wood to another room and overall, they look beautiful. I understand if doing this in a home, there is going to be dust and particles in the air so you are going to get some of that under the topcoat. I am wondering how much of that is acceptable though. You can't see anything from eye level so from that point of view, it is fine. Getting down on the floor level, you can definitely see little bumps scattered in places but I also have found a few bigger pieces like pine needles under it. Again, this is just a few needles I have found so far along with various small specks and you can't see any of it from standing level. How much of this should there be and if left alone, could the topcoat eventually break away from these and leave a spot or cause other problems?

I will be installing all new 1/2" thick baseboards and 3/4" thick (1x4s) door and window casing, jamb extensions, etc. I have a 18 gauge nailer but most of what I read says I should use 16 gauge. It looks like I can buy one for around $70 at Harbor Freight or somewhere so it's not that expensive, but just asking what would be best, and nail length as well. Thanks.

I will be installing all new 1/2" thick baseboards and 3/4" thick (1x4s) door and window casing, jamb extensions, etc. I have a 18 gauge nailer but most of what I read says I should use 16 gauge. It looks like I can buy one for around $70 at Harbor Freight or somewhere so it's not that expensive, but just asking what would be best, and nail length as well. Thanks.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these particular doors. I would imagine the 250 series are better, but how much better? We just have some old heavy wood sliding doors that are showing their age and don't open like they used to and want something white and maintenance free. This is just a patio door but gets opened several times a day to let the dog out. Just want a nice operating door and possibly with the blinds in it. It is nice that these are in stock at Lowe's so I wouldn't have to wait to order some, but also don't want them if they are not going to last. Any thoughts?

From other posts here, I learned to use a mini roller along with the brush when cutting in to make it smooth and feathered and it worked great when I tried it. This is probably me overthinking it, but now I am going to do a ceiling and want to use a 1/2 nap woven because it is textured and I only have 3/8 microfiber mini rollers. Do they need to be the same to make this work without noticing the cut in line? It's a big ceiling so I was going to cut it all in and come back later or another day to roll the rest.

A big section of my ceiling runs down the hall, into the kitchen, living room, and dining room with no breaks. Do I have to paint that all at once to avoid seeing where I stopped, or can I do it in sections? Ideally I would like to do most of it over a couple of days but wait on the living room because there is currently a bunch of stuff in there that's being staged from other parts of the house.

Edit: To make sure I'm clear, I am not going to leave part of it with old paint. I will eventually paint the whole ceiling over the next month or so. I just want to know if when I start the new section, will it be noticeable where I left off if I overlap it?

I keep going back and forth on whether or not to spray trim, as I have never sprayed anything inside the house. The house is a finished, lived in house (except one room is totally new) but the whole interior is going to be painted in the end. Most have hardwoods but one room has carpet that will be replaced. All baseboards, doors, window sills, and casings are going to be replaced. I have read some places where you have to cover every inch of the room with plastic and I have also read where you just have to cover the floor and a couple of feet up the wall if you use a FFLP tip. Which is true for spraying trim? I wouldn't care about getting overspray on the walls, as I will paint those last, but I already have most of the ceiling painted so don't want to mess that up. What do you think? Is this worth it, or too much of a pain where I should just brush everything?

Of course I search for this question and see people argue for both sides. Now I'm even more confused!

I understand how to scribe contoured baseboards, but with flat, do you just use butt joints for the inside corners and caulk the small joint you can see on the top so you can't see it anymore? Or is there some other trick to it?

Other than it being cheaper, is there any reason why you would want to use MDF over finger joint pine for baseboards and casing?

If I have to rip some boards to fit as jamb extensions or make some casing a little smaller, do I need a very fine tooth blade for the table saw like I do for the miter saw (like 60 or 80)?

I have an old Ryobi chop saw that I have had for years and it gets the job done for the occasional use it gets. I am going to be doing a bunch of trim, baseboards, etc. in the house along with some possible laminate flooring in the near future and wonder if this Harbor Freight saw will be better than what I have. It is on sale for 110 now and while I know it is not the best and probably not something I would want if I am an everyday carpenter, I wonder if it will make my life easier with these projects, while still not spending too much on a new saw. The biggest casing I will probably be cutting is 5 1/2" baseboard. When I get to the laminate floor, I know my current saw won't cut through it without flipping it over. The next level of saws up that I found are like 300 and I don't know if that is going to be that much better for someone who is mostly going to use it in the next few months, but then very occasionally after that. What do you think? Is this worth it, or will it not do much more than what I have now?

I have an old Ryobi chop saw that I have had for years and it gets the job done for the occasional use it gets. I am going to be doing a bunch of trim, baseboards, etc. in the house along with some possible laminate flooring in the near future and wonder if this Harbor Freight saw will be better than what I have. It is on sale for 110 now and while I know it is not the best and probably not something I would want if I am an everyday carpenter, I wonder if it will make my life easier with these projects, while still not spending too much on a new saw. The biggest casing I will probably be cutting is 5 1/2" baseboard. When I get to the laminate floor, I know my current saw won't cut through it without flipping it over. The next level of saws up that I found are like 300 and I don't know if that is going to be that much better for someone who is mostly going to use it in the next few months, but then very occasionally after that. What do you think? Is this worth it, or will it not do much more than what I have now?

I have an old Ryobi chop saw that I have had for years and it gets the job done for the occasional use it gets. I am going to be doing a bunch of trim, baseboards, etc. in the house along with some possible laminate flooring in the near future and wonder if this Harbor Freight saw will be better than what I have. It is on sale for 110 now and while I know it is not the best and probably not something I would want if I am an everyday carpenter, I wonder if it will make my life easier with these projects, while still not spending too much on a new saw. The biggest casing I will probably be cutting is 5 1/2" baseboard. When I get to the laminate floor, I know my current saw won't cut through it without flipping it over. The next level of saws up that I found are like 300 and I don't know if that is going to be that much better for someone who is mostly going to use it in the next few months, but then very occasionally after that. What do you think? Is this worth it, or will it not do much more than what I have now?

I have an old Ryobi chop saw that I have had for years and it gets the job done for the occasional use it gets. I am going to be doing a bunch of trim, baseboards, etc. in the house along with some possible laminate flooring in the near future and wonder if this Harbor Freight saw will be better than what I have. It is on sale for 110 now and while I know it is not the best and probably not something I would want if I am an everyday carpenter, I wonder if it will make my life easier with these projects, while still not spending too much on a new saw. The biggest casing I will probably be cutting is 5 1/2" baseboard. When I get to the laminate floor, I know my current saw won't cut through it without flipping it over. The next level of saws up that I found are like 300 and I don't know if that is going to be that much better for someone who is mostly going to use it in the next few months, but then very occasionally after that. What do you think? Is this worth it, or will it not do much more than what I have now?

I passed the Fire Inspector 1 and 2 exams within a month of each other many years ago and have always renewed both when the time comes. I am just wondering if that is a waste of time and if I only need to renew the second one, or do you need to maintain both?