MacBook5,2 - BCM94360CS2 macOS 12 Help

MacBook5,2 - BCM94360CS2 macOS 12 Help

EDIT/UPDATE:

Reverting and reapplying OCLP patches fixed it — I had accidentally booted into Monterey recovery and noticed wifi worked, which told me the card is natively supported. Reverted, rebooted, reapplied, and rebooted... SUCCESS! (oclp plus/3.2.2, didn't realize before).

For anyone wondering, any of the cheap adapters should be fine along with a $6 set of antennas. Some notes:

  • The USB soldering step appears to only be for BT4.0/Continuity support. Making a plug and play thing with the original 4 pin BT module power plug won't work. Just giving it 5v isn't the problem. I only wanted Airplay anyways (and have the option now!), skipping this leaves the stock bluetooth capability intact.

  • Make sure to get NEW antennas! (MHF4 RF1.13 is the size for the smaller female port on newer 2012*-2015 Airport cards). Nothing worse than finding out the stupid way...

  • Squirreling the wire around the lcd is a pain but functionally worth it. I had to peel the insulation and expose the two bare wires to get the little corner cover on, and it still needed help staying flush (blue tack, glued the foam square in good, fingers crossed). The bare antennas/wires will fit under the LCD, even behind the board. Leave a bit of slack at the ends, 4-5cm gives adequate room iirc. Cut a little notch in the plastic ledge that hugs the LCD under the frame. Don't crimp the cable under the lcd bracket too much to keep the bezel flush. I left a small section of the thick insulation to hopefully cushion it, and with the notch it was fine. Maybe a soft crimp is fine.

Hasn't been long term tested, but anyone familiar with an A1181 knows that these have TONS of room, everywhere. Run the new antennas around either side, I even kept the old ones just in case and put electrical tape on the ends for when they're out of use. It wouldn't have free'd up space anyways. She'll be 'right.

Added for posterity, and to copy and post somewhere else more useful.

Original Post:

I installed a PCIe adapter to put a new airport card in my very special BlackBook 5,2. It took an hour and a half to reroute the new antennas behind the LCD cleanly where the old ones fit alongside them just in case...

Tested and verified to work in a MacOS 10.11 installer (can't figure out what date to set, Apple is the worst...)

It shows up in the system report in macOS 12 (see pic, only one readily available atm), but shows "status: not associated" and can only turn on and off in settings... But that's it. **No networks show up. I am gonna look for kexts after playing around with the settings more, but does anyone here have any ideas?**

I figured it might be a case of open core having a pre-configured list of kexts and stuff to install for each model, since hardware rarely varies much, and my MacBook5,2 configuration omitting drivers for a card that is rarely installed.

I don't know if I pulled this card from a 2014 or a 2015, and so I am not sure if I should expect it to work with Monterey out of box. *I just got everything cleaned up and put back together an hour ago (it does not look like the picture anymore!!!)* and figured I could wait for a reply here while digging into it myself.

I will update the OP with whatever gets it working, and helpful notes for other A1181-enjoyers out there.

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 5 days ago

Cyst only drains blood now, is surgical removal only option + full timeline of issue

Gender Male, Age 23, ( 23M ), 5'10" 180lb. Vape, 3x300mg Gabapentin, 2x200mg Ibuprofen for the past several days, TendSkin day and night from days 3-5 or so, and for the next 10 days: Doxycycline and Mupirocin 2x daily + warm towel kept warm with heating pad 4x daily. Attached is how it looks at the time of eriting after dabbing up dried leaked blood from the main cyst. — I also saw a day 2 pic in my gallery and I wish so badly it looked like that again :'(

Staph. on pubic area that has progressed to one large cyst and multiple small ones. 7-8 days in and only now deciding absolutely no pressing or squeezing, not even gentle. Can't really help bending over though, I don't think.

The short question is: the largest one (a third to a half of a mcdonalds nugget maybe) only drains blood now. Is surgical removal by incision by doctor or full removal the only way it'll drain now? Is there any chance it could resolve on its own with the meds and compresses? Would love general advice and info too.

A bit more info: I don't squeeze it anymore, I'm gonna give it a rest fully now. But since a few days ago I only lightly press it when it ruptures on its own because it often, though not always, means I can dry it, apply petroleum jelly, and go about my way.

And it ruptures or drains, unsure which, but it leaks just blood multiple times a day now. It is right above my penis, bending over seems to do it. Sometimes just walking. At this point, I don't know a practical way to avoid it. The smaller ones leak pus still, though it has turned green and yellow (doctor is aware).

I'm applying warm/hot moist towels 4x a day now for 20min or so each day. Sometimes I forget they're on, I'll admit. I'm setting timers now though. I assume too long is too long but I never have one on for longer than 30min. I'm scared of how bad this may get at this point. I don't understand why it has gotten so bad outside of the constant borderline abuse the boils/cysts have had.

Full timeline of symptoms and stupid things I've done:

Timeline dates are approximate, sequence is correct. Unsure if I have had this problem for 6 days or 8. Day 3 and 4 is where any additional day would be.

I've had the worst, what I think was, ingrown hair result I have ever experienced by far, despite good or at least average hygiene. I'd usually take this to the grave but at this point I am a bit scared of what is to come.

  • Day 1, It started off as an annoying ingrown hair (I think), which had a tiny bit of redness around it. I would squeeze it to pop it like a pimple, which I would absolutely have never done in hindsight. It didn't get better. I used my face trimmers to trim down there to better see and look for a trapped hair. The hair didn't appear trapped. NOTE: It was an old blade on a phillips one blade, I was being a cheapskate and ignorantly thought that they didn't break the skin so a new one or regular sterilization wasn't needed. I think that is what caused the constellation of white heads that came at the top of my pubic area on day 2

  • Day 2, "the constellation" appeared. The original bump had increased in size a small amount, no white head iirc. I kept trying to squeeze the first (from now forward, the main or the largest) boil, cleaning after.

  • Day 3, I felt a rubbery tough cyst form under the main one. Kept stupidly trying to drain that as well as the several (5-6 actually) new little ones. In hindsight the actual cyst didn't shrink with drainage so I'm not even sure what I was trying to accomplish. I guess since it had worked my whole short life up to this point... Idk. The peripheral ones were proper white heads, one had a white head that was flat and almost a thumb tac/push pin back in diameter, which comprised of the entire diameter. I tried my best to literally lance them all, side ways, rubbing alcohol on the needle and antibacterial soap on me between each one. Only one I didnt do this to was the main one. Seemed pointless and I was too scared to poke the actual cyst.

  • Day 4, I finally see a doctor. the main cyst is over a US quarter coin in size, tough and rubbery still, and still draining pus but now mixed with dark blood when messed with. Was prescribed Doxycycline pills and Mupirocin ointment. At this point, it is its current size but still some pus in the discharge I think. Was not able to pick up the prescription though, as I waited too long for it to be ready and had forgotten it was Sunday and they closed early.

  • Day 5, main cyst had become size it is now and generally painful. Big change is that the main one only leaked blood now, still dark mostly. Memorial day, had read my pharmacy was closed and was pretty upset.

  • Day 6, Pick up script in the morning, main cyst blood-only discharge is less dark, bright red even when dabbed up with toilet paper or a napkin. Like bloody nose color. Besides that, the only change is that one of the minor boils discharges greenish or maybe yellowish pus while bent over on the toilet and gently prodded. Picked up script. Knew I'd have to see a doc after green/yellow discharge but didn't know whether to see clinic or urgent care so asked pharmacist. She recommended clinic. At the clinic, the doc pretty much looked at it, confirmed it is Staph, noted no change beyond color of discharge, and said to take the antibiotics and visit if anything changes/worsened, unless emergency ofc.

  • Now it is end of Day 6 (or 7), technically Day 7/8 (2am), No changes ofc but I have taken my second total doxycycline, reapplied ointment. 15 hours since first antibiotic. Officially: Im not even gonna gently prod my main cyst for more blood. It'll leak more later anyways, and at this point I'm scared and worried it will never properly drain/flatted on its own without an outside incision or full removal+stitches.

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 14 days ago
▲ 239 r/mac

The Multitouch mod worked!!!

I bought a 2008 A1260 palmrest w/ trackpad through eBay, it has to be a multitouch trackpad! The guide I linked has tips for telling which is which when given limitted information. I put it into my 2009 A1181 — it has/I use a black 2008 keyboard, but this should work fine on 2006-2007 A1181 keyboards. The connector is identical iirc.

**I have gestures on my blackbook! I can't believe it!** I hope to make my blackbook one of a kind some day :D

All that is left to do is to add a keyboard backlight... Just need to find an easy 12V source to test a donor backlight... And also much better soldering skills...

Followed this guide, though the process is exactly what you'd imagine: https://lowendmac.com/2025/add-multitouch-to-your-older-macbook/

I'd be happy to write a better more detailed text guide that has tips that an inexperienced person would appreciate. I will probably put one on my blog one day, and link it wherever.

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 19 days ago

What is this suspension part?

'03 Honda CRV LX, 2WD Automatic 68k - again.

I forgot to add pictures to my post asking about the front end suspension last night. I was tired and in a rush :(

Besides the problem circled in red, both sides look about the same. Will try to see how much play each part has this morning.

Had that metal soda can popping sound when going over bumps. She says it is also when taking sharp turns but I haven't noticed that when I take it for longer test drives. It came from the front passenger side two months ago, now sounds like an old trunk when going over bumps. Not in a deeply concerning way, not yet.

Attached are all the pics, and **the first pic has what I am curious about circled.** I see a tear and leakage, very concerning. The single sound when we first got it was from the passenger side, no doubt. The first picture, with the bit circled in red, is of the passenger side.

I can't find CV related parts on Rockauto, could they be named something else? It looks connected to what looks like the CV boot, but I want to make sure.

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 21 days ago
▲ 1 r/crv

'03 CRV: 0122 after cleaning TB and IAC

FINAL EDIT: We all make silly mistakes sometimes, and forgetting to plug the TPS in is very silly on my end...

I won't say that I rushed the reassembly or anything, but I did take it apart one day, and then reassembled it on another day when a gasket came. I've done it on laptops after years of working on them, and I guess that negligence transfers to cars. I was wondering if my new found comfort working on her car was confidence or hubris. Now I know which and will pay extra attention to my work.

------------- Original Post -------------

EDIT: Title is meant to say P0122, I swear the title had it like that...

I posted here recently about a vibration at idle after turning on accessories that load the engine (well, that was what the issue turned out to be, it wasn't low rpm at idle in the end).

I cleaned the throttle body (TB) and idle air control valve (IAC/IACV), replaced the IAC gasket, the two JIS screws as well, reset the ecm by pulling the fuse out for a bit, and then did an idle relearn.

Now the CEL is on steady, throwing a P0122, and it only shifts at 3k rpm.

What did I do wrong? (see end of post for what I did)

Would a new throttle position sensor fix this?

They're only $40-$50 on Rockauto, but I want to make sure that is it. The contacts on both the female and male ends look fine. I can't find a whole new throttle body on Rockauto, but could check the local junkyard for one. Ironically, I'd probably need to clean it...

... It's not even that bad to drive, besides 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. It reached 60 alright during the longer test drive, and I am leaning towards letting her drive it to work and back (12mi each way) for a few days while I wait on yet another part to come in the mail. Reading online says it is generally safe, but I want to make sure. I have a new IAC coming in the mail, and will probably return it.

Below is everything I have done with the TB and IAC up to this point:

- I pulled out and cleaned my throttle body, taking care to not spray inside it and being very gentle when opening the valve by hand/never letting it shut under its own tension).

- I cleaned the idle air control valve housing, like the metal bits, very roughly with a wire brush and making sure to not let liquid seep into any black electrical looking parts.

- When cleaning the IACV metal parts/cavities on the actual throttle body (the part that the little orange gasket goes on) I sprayed into them softly and wire brushed them. I also sprayed the screw holes and wire brushed them, *and in the process somehow got some TB cleaner onto the spool wires of the throttle, and assumed they'd evaporate immediately like the rest of the TB cleaner had. This accident may be relevent.*

- I replaced the IACV gasket and screws, and put everything back together.

- Then I pulled fuse 6/the ecm fuse from the under-hood fuse box and left it out for 15min. After that 15 min, I prepped to do an idle relearn. When I started the car, the check engine light was on but that low vibration issue was gone! I turned on the AC and everything and the car felt much better to sit in! I was very happy, because I hadn't checked the code yet and assumed it would go away after the relearn.

- Finally, I did the relearn, revved it at 3k rpm until the temps hit 194F. The radiator fans didn't turn on. I left it in idle after that for 5min, the fans never turned on so it was a quick 5min with no pauses on the stop watch.

- Turned the car off, checked everything again for whatever reason, and then got back in and turned it on. Took it for a short drive down our road... CEL on steady for P0122 (low throttle sensor voltage), in limp mode I think (only shifts at 3k rpm, and the down shift from 2 to 1 is rough at a stop).

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u/GalaxyNinja66 — 21 days ago
▲ 3 r/crv

2nd gen CRV: Deep vibration at idle, espescially when in gear. Low rpm at idle.

2003 CRV LX, FWD, ~68k miles.

The idle rpm seems a bit low, not atrociously low but low.

At idle/not moving, the car has a decently intense vibration in the interior that can also be deeply felt in the steering wheel. Revving it up helps a lot, and especially moving in gear with the brake off/just driving like normal.

I just want the car to not vibrate so hard when it idles. It vibrates a bit still when driving/above 1000 rpm, but I'd prefer it not shake/vibrate at all. All I can think to do is break down and spend the money on the four OEM engine mounts, and clean out the throttle body and IACV.

I'm not sure what else to do :(

-------------------------

Below is a list of the engine mounts changed/not changed, what I've done so far, and what I plan to do:

- Right now the front mount is stock/original but appears intact/not torn at all.

- The passenger side front mount under the hood is after market.

- The rear trans mount under the car is aftermarket/windo-welded. The original one looked fine though so I kept it just in case.

- And the trans mount is stock/original, *and leaking a bit of orange fluid from a small tear* (I had replaced it with a windo-welded Anchor mount, bracket/pivot bolt started punching through it a week after install, absolute garbage).

Tomorrow I am going to try and take the throttle body and IACV out to clean them with some throttle body cleaner/whatever is recommended when I research more.

Later when that d*mn special wrench comes, I will change out the squeaky original (I think) belt out for a nice Gates one.

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 26 days ago
▲ 3 r/crv

2003 CRV -Spacer on middle bolt, rear engine mount?

Can I remove the middle bolt and re-use what looks like a spacer?

It looks like I can replace this mount in 10 minutes, I don't even need to jack the car up it is high up as is (my jack cant even get the wheels off the ground, I assume Id need a block of wood or two)

u/GalaxyNinja66 — 27 days ago

What is the point of budget cuts? Do they lower taxes? Is the way we conceptualize "budget cuts" misleading?

Didn't know where else to put this, but it has been driving me mad for a while - It seems that a quiet implication of budget cuts is that it would save us - the everyday American - money. Maybe I am slow or not getting it, if so, please let me know how. But it feels like this is how it is presented, especially when budget cuts are presented alongside sentiments of poor people leaching our taxes, or stupid grants wasting our taxes. It creates this understanding that if these leaches or grants stopped, our money would come back to us somehow (in a way that is unclear or wrongly understood).

Now, obviously I haven't seen a drop in taxes. My healthcare went form $15 to $150 a month, that's all I've noticed. A lot of other people have too, mostly that specific increase...

... So presumably the fed is saving a lot of money that would've otherwise gone to healthcare subsidies. A lot of other things were cut too of course...

Where is it going now? Where is all this saved money going? Because it certainly didn't come back to me. My VA benefits haven't increased more than the usual inflation amount (dependent, not a vet just a leach). My SNAP hasn't gone up, not that I expected it to. Everything is still expensive.

I understand that policy changes with long term goals take longer amounts of time to materialize, but that isn't an adequate response to my complaints. I feel like these cuts weren't meant to benefit everyday Americans at all.

So if our taxes don't get lowered (unless they do, please let me know!), and if subsidies are getting cut, and if no programs are being added to, Where does it go?

Don't tell me "the Iran" conflict, or "to siphon money from the working class back to the wealthy." Sure, I feel like those are the answers. But really, in the long term, what is the true end goal of this plan? It can't just be my two guesses. Also first post here, so sorry if it is awful.

This, among much other research, is why I am no longer a closet fascist. Well, maybe I am still, but not for this current government... Who doesn't sometimes fantasize about everyone looking and acting like them? Just sometimes?

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u/GalaxyNinja66 — 27 days ago
▲ 3 r/crv

I had included this question in another post with no luck, I might cross/re post this to the mechanic advice subreddit but want some of y'all's more specific experience.

The Mrs. just got an '03 FWD CRV with 68k miles, regular oil changes on carfax (well, every 20k, we will be doing every 5-10k) with seemingly no reported issues. But it also has no reported transmission service. I haven't noticed any slippage, and some new engine mounts are going in within a week which should fix the light clunks when going into drive or reverse...

Seeing as the mileage is relatively low, would a flush be safe?

Can you even do that on this car, without dropping the pan and everything? I've only ever owned manual cars so I am not familiar with this service at all. Everywhere generally recommends a drain and fill vs a flush and fill due to new fluid removing friction material, debris migrating, etc.. I also read that each model car is different in that some trans fluid plug set ups are flush only, some are drain only.

Would removing the 3/8 trans fluid plug underneath just drain it instead of flushing it? Also, is a new crush washer something I could buy at any store or even a dealership, or should I go ahead and order one?

I know what fluid to get, the steps, all that. It looks like a super simple job, I just really want some advice as I have never had the opportunity to do this before.

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u/GalaxyNinja66 — 1 month ago
▲ 1 r/crv

My fiance just got a 2003 FWD CRV (for way too much). It looks almost brand new and has 68k miles. I've got some questions, I've been lurking here lately and figured here is the best place to ask! :D

Carfax showed regular driving, steady 300-800mi a year for the first ten years, ~2k-5k a year after. This is from memory, but I know it was seldom driven for the first ten and then driven normally for the last ten.

Passed Texas safety and emissions every time, had oil changes reported every 15-20k miles.

Was in Texas for almost it's entire life, Houston iirc, and I don't see any rust underneath (tiny patch on the hood, less than a square cm). I suspect maybe it was an older person car that got passed down to a child/grand child without a title transfer? I'm 90% sure my fiance is the second owner... :O (cba to check, too late now)

The oil looks okay having a bit of a hard time reading it compared to my jetta dipstick, golden and between the dots. The struts look brand new, other front end components look okay. CV boots appear fully intact, no tears or leakage or anything like that.

Transmission question related to later-described clunk sound: I want to change the trans fluid, but there is no record of it ever being done on carfax and I am worried to fully "flush" all the fluid and change it. Is it really a risk given the car's age/mileage? Should I do the "drain pan/overflow and then fill every 100mi(?)" thing instead?


IMMEDIATE ISSUES (ALL SEEM AGE RELATED):

  • It has a soft clunk going from park to drive/reverse. Vibrations at idle. 99% sure the mounts are shot. Makes sense, waiting 3-7 days for the 3M Windo-Weld/polyurethane(?) to dry in the new ones. She'll drive 100-150mi by the time they're done :'(

Got an ANCHOR brand mount kit off Rockauto, if they crap out I'll get OEM but supposedly the windo-weld should greatly lengthen life/quality.

  • Belt sounding squeal only during cold start that goes away after a minute, maybe less.

The accessory belt feels nice and tight, I wanna say slight edge fraying from the alternator but I'm grasping here, it looks fine - the "fraying" is seriously a stretch. Also "cold start" as in, if you drive it for a minute (i.e. until the squeal stops), stop and park it, and then start it up 30min later, it won't squeal.

  • When going over bumps, there is a soft thunk sound that may even be felt ever so slightly from the front passenger side. Like a soda can being undented, a "metal-undenting" sound.

This... I have no idea. Maybe the struts? They look brand new, like not at all dusty looking like the other front end suspension components. The caution message tape is still on the top under the hood at the mounts, maybe they were put in wrong? Never done struts, no idea there. I want to say the sound happens when accelerating into turns, but I might be internalizing other posts here. I can't remember the other scenario that rarely causes it. Maybe random, or just smaller bumps.


Sorry if I got any terms wrong, I am new to wrenching and have only done basic jobs like brakes and helped with front end stuff (balls, etc.)

tl;dr: Is it safe to flush transmission fluid if no service reported in 68k miles/23 years old? + Shift clunking/ vibration worst at idle... Mounts? + Belt sounding squeal only at cold start, belt tight... Belt? Pulley? how to check bearing? + Metal pop sound from the front passenger end when going over bumps, like a soda can...?

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u/GalaxyNinja66 — 1 month ago