>A gas spring cylinder rupture or a liftgate falling unexpectedly can increase the risk of injury.

>NHTSA ID Number: 26V252000

>Manufacturer Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc.

>Components STRUCTURE

>Potential Number of Units Affected: 108046

>Summary

>Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc. (MMNA) is recalling certain 2018-2022 Outlander PHEV and 2014-2020 Outlander vehicles. The liftgate gas spring cylinders may corrode and lose pressure, which can result in a gas spring cylinder rupture or the liftgate falling unexpectedly.

>Remedy

>MMNA will replace the left and right liftgate gas springs, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed June 17, 2026. Owners may contact MMNA customer service at 1-888-648-7820. MMNA's number for this recall is SR-26-001. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will be searchable on NHTSA.gov June 3, 2026. This recall expands previous NHTSA recall number 25V507.

Credit: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

I need a second opinion before I tear it down again.

I rebuilt the top end on my

2003 Honda SH150 (KF04 Engine type).

It ran fine for about 110 km.

Then I found out it's making a thin white smoke in small bursts not all the time, and all the coolant hoses were swollen, the water pump to cylinder hose was the worst (it was also leaking). But still running just fine...

Important details:

I did NOT torque the head bolts. I tightened them by feel.

I have no thermostat, so it's an always-open loop and the fan runs constantly.

I ran plain water, no antifreeze. There's visible rust in the radiator neck.

I replaced the swollen hose and radiator cap over a week ago and the outside is dry now.

The coolant level still drops over days,

even when I don't ride it.

Cold engine, cap off: no geysering, and no bubbles when I fill 1L (More than it should before bleeding) and start it.

The level in the neck drops when I rev it.

Oil looks clean and not milky, as far as I can tell.

Smoke is thin and white. I haven't yet checked whether it clears when warm.

The uneven bolt tightening may have caused a head gasket failure or a warped head, and coolant may be slowly seeping into the cylinder. The lack of bubbles doesn't fit the classic combustion-gas-in-coolant pattern, though

Does this sound like a gasket or warped head, or could it be the coolant-passage O-rings or the water pump seal?

Or maybe I'm an idiot and it's just condensation

Anything else I should check before I pull the head?

Video attached. Thanks!

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Had rear pads and rotors replaced on a VS30 2022 Sprinter van 2500 at the MB dealership. Brakes are still squeaky at low speed while coming to a full stop and the parking brake just barely holds the van on a small slope. It's been 4k miles science the job was done. I have brought the van back so they have a second look and listen to my continued issues. I also had plenty of video evidence of the squealing brakes. This is what I found, a lot of oil(?) grease (?) on and around the brake calipers. Is this a normal thing to see after the brakes job on a vehicle?

Or I ran it over, can’t tell. What is this part, and was I able to drive 40+ miles without it? I drive a 2011 Kia Rio 5

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Two same-day cancelations back to back now. I run a mobile service.

2010 f150

1997 ford ranger 3.0v6

Shop has just replaced my thermostat and done multiple coolant flushes. The owner said they put a 185° thermostat in which is 10° or so lower than oem. Truck now rides the Cold line on the gauge when going above 60kmh or 35mph ish

Also 20°c day - 68°f for those who dont know celsius

Is it a concern? How will it perform in negative temperatures?

Ysday after a 20 min 120-130 kmph run i was stopping and at under 10 speed the car was making a tak tak noise from front rim area. It repeated again after 5 hours of car resting. Today no noise but still a faint click click sometime from front rim area. Have taken car to garage but I don't wanna be ripped off. He said will check bearings in 1 hour after a break. I. Tried rotaing the front rims and there is resistance compared to rear ones which have drum brake though. Seems normal ?

UPDATE: MECHANIC SAYING NOTHING WRONG AND THINKS MAYBE A ROCK CAME BETWEEN PADS. BUT THE NOISE WAS With TIRE MOTION SO I DOUBT. GONNA GO FOR A 30 MIN HIGH SPEED RUN NOW AGAIN.

So yeah I grabbed this sprocket from a spare engine laying around and sandblasted it due to corrosion. Now I'm stuck wondering if I ruined it since sandblasting leaves that rough surface everyone is familiar with.

I would imagine a sabdblasted surface is still better for the belt than rust, but new ones have that shiny surface (3rd picture). Can I recreate that somehow by bluing or zinc plating, etc. Local engine machining shop told me the sandblasted one is fine and that the belt itself will polish it on no time, is this true?

2013 Ford F150 Super CabXL Pickup 4D

5.0L V8 Flex Fuel Engine

Changing the oil today and the dipstick snapped. Didn't even give it a hard tug. Apologies for the video but it's a little difficult to get to, requiring a stepladder to access.

Tried needlenose pliers but once I took the video, I don't think those are going to work. What are my options?

This is connected to the horn on a 2019 ford expedition. Horn is only making high clown noise. Thought to check fuse before buying a new horn. Here are both sides of the fuse. Bad fuse or normal?

This was posted on r/askcarguys but I was unable to add pictures there.

I’ve recently considered buying a 2002 Buick Century with 88,000 miles that has been garage kept for 4+ years.
I’m a home health aide and one of my clients was a trucker and hobby mechanic before he got very sick. After years of failing health he is currently on dialysis and downsizing his vehicles. He asked me to get the car inspected and roadworthy.

I took a picture of the dipstick before and after running it for 15 minutes. Because I’ve never seen oil that far up and assumed it was a fluke. After replacing the battery I checked all the fluids then started it up. Other than the dipstick everything looked good, just needed coolant added. The coolant tank had some dark sludge on the sides so I feared blown seals or gaskets.

I was concerned about driving it to the inspection and making whatever problem worse. The owner assumed it was because of sitting for so long. My boyfriend changed the oil and filter the next day. I assumed we would find more than the needed 5quarts in the pan. Nope, just under 5 came out. Oil looked lightly used. Not thick and black, not milky and no metal flakes in it. After driving the car around the block we checked the dipstick. Same issue, it’s 4” up from the gauge on the tip. My odb came back with no codes.

Inspection went great and mechanic said he saw no issues. So I’m coming to you guys in hopes of finding out what would cause this to happen. I owned a Buick years ago and it was a great car. A smooth ride and built like a tank. I had some jerk hit me from behind going 45 mph. The only thing that really broke was the impact bar and my trunk latch. I sold her to a college student when I bought a newer car. Regular maintenance kept her running for years and I honestly feel like newer cars are either going to break down quickly or cost an arm and a leg to fix. I would like to get this car. He’s only asking for $850 from me. I’m willing to put in the money needed to take care of it.

Would this be a mistake to buy? What causes do you know of that cause the oil to read that high?

I have a 2002 Toyota Avalon with a pioneer Bluetooth system and a backup camera installed. But the camera no longer works and I tried to fix it but I had to take out the pioneer system and when I tried to do that it might’ve messed up the electronics in my car because it no longer even starts and all the lights are dimmer. I only took the one photo of me trying to turn on my car (when most lights turn off) if you need more let me know