Hi all, I’m here with a tale as old as time:
- Went in to a Jiffy Lube (SURPRISE!) for an oil change. They fiddle around for a bit and clearly something ain’t right.
- They inform me that, sorry sir, we inadvertently drained your transmission fluid. Do not turn your car on.
- They’re unable to get the right Subaru CVT juices because it’s a Sunday, and they’ll have to wait until tomorrow to get it from a dealer and perform the work.
- They’re comping the oil change (obviously) and my Ubers home from the shop and to pick it up, thankfully I work from home and won’t really need the car during this time but it’s still a PITA.
- I recorded the conversations and have the number of the manager on duty and her boss
- The manager gal informed me that they don’t typically do Subaru transmission fluid stuff because it’s so hard to get the right fluid quickly. I asked if it was something they were capable of doing in house, and she said yes definitely not out of their wheelhouse (inspires confidence given the mistake in the first place.)
Before they actually start the work tomorrow I want to make sure I’m setting everyone involved up for success, shit happens.
Questions:
- How big of a goof is this, and what are the risks?
- Should I have them NOT perform the work and instead demand a tow to the dealership for them to perform the work, or is it really not that deep?
- If they perform the work, should I ask them to also cover a dealership inspection of the work to make sure everything was done “by the book?”
- Any other liabilities I need to be concerned with?
My main thing is, as of right now, this is a hundreds of dollars mistake for them, and a somewhat minor inconvenience for me (any other issues notwithstanding, I’m coming out ok with a free oil change for about 2hrs of inconvenience so far). I want to ensure that this doesn’t turn into a thousands and thousands of dollar mistake for them and a major major inconvenience for me if it gets messed up.
Thoughts? Advice?
Tried replacing my fuel pressure sensor with a new one then I try to crank it doesn’t start. Then I decide to reinstall the old one just to see and it still does this.
2020 Mustang Ecoboost 64k miles.
22 nissan altima. I don't know why, but I pumped the brakes after replacing the front brakes, but before doing the rear ones. Now the caliper will not budge. What now?
Edit: just realized some rear calipers you have to wind back. Are these windback?
Citroen C4 2017 MoreLife - engine 1.2 PureTech.
I had issues with my AC and went to have that checked out. The mechanic told me I could pay more by refilling R1234yf or less by replacing it with 134a. I went with the cheaper option and had no problems for a few hours, and my cooling seems to have been fixed.
I went to the store later that day, but when I started my car after leaving the store, I had the "Electrical circuit system: repair needed" message on the screen. It appeared again after restarting the engine.
I drove back home, and the error persisted. I checked with OBD2, but no errors were found. Engine voltage is at 12.5V while off, and it charges to 13.95V after turning it on.
Eventually it disappeared, but appeared again today.
Same situation - started the engine with no error, drove to my destination, turned the car off and returned after 30 minutes and turned it on - the error appears.
It only appears on startup - either just the system or the engine as well. Never appeared while driving.
Also, car battery was replaced once by previous owner in October 2025.
I tried moving the AC sensor around, but it did not solve the issue.
Can it be related to switching the cooling gas, or could it be a different issue entirely?
I included the pictures showing the error and which part of the car the mechanic was working on.
I hope this post abides by the rules as its a battery issue, but it relates to a dash cam
Vehicle: Ford Fusion 2016
June 20th - July 3rd (13 days) - A new dash cam was installed and kept plugged in 24/7 to the auxiliary power socket. From what i know, the car supplies power to this socket for 1h15m after the car is off. I had no issues with the battery during this period of time and drove it regularly to work, etc.
July 4th ~4PM - I unplug the dash cam because i didn't have an SD card in at the time and drive for ~10 minutes to get food.
July 5th ~2PM - The next time i try to start the car (dash cam still unplugged) the car won't start. I plug in my scanning tool, which tells me that the battery is at 9 Volts. I jump the car and it reads 14 V. I drive it around and run some errands just fine for a few hours.
I'm not sure what to make of this. Seems to me the battery issues are related to the dash cam, as I've never had problems before i started using one. But also, why would this happen the day after i unplugged it? coincidence?
I've had the car for 2.5 years, not sure how old the battery is though.
Just looking for any ideas as to what might have happened or other things i should check out. My concern is that now my battery is just going to be dead again in the morning as i have no idea what drew it down over the past 1 day
TIA
Hey y’all, 2 years ago I had an off grinding noise coming from my jeep and I got to it shop seemingly just in time before the pinion fell clean out of my rear differential. The gears had entirely shredded themselves and embedded shards all throughout the axle.
Full axle tear down and rebuild and I was back on the road. Now 2 years later I’m changing the fluids and I found these love notes inside. Is this any kind normal/operable or should I genuinely park the vehicle until I can either get the cover off or get it back to the shop.
I used to have 35” mudders on her and was told that was a main reason for the failure, have since sized down to 32” all terrains and am primarily highway driving these days.
Update: thank y’all for calming my nerves for the next while. Going to open her up sometime in the next few weeks to take a better look but ride her til she parks herself for now.
I apologize if this is a stupid question, but I want to make sure I understand and do it correctly. I'm going to be towing a 1995 RWD 2 door Suzuki Sidekick soon, and I'm unsure what the best way would be. The owner's manual says to tow it backwards, but we're taking it some 300 miles and that seems sketchy.
If I were to disconnect the driveshaft, do I remove the whole thing, or just unbolt the rear part and secure that to the frame? If I took out the whole thing, why would I secure it to the frame rather than just put it in the car or something? Thank you for your time!
Hi! I hope someone can help me, I changed my own cabin air filter in my 2012 crv, I placed the filter with the arrow pointed down. But is there like a front or back to the filter when placing it back in or does it not matter as long as the arrow is down? It's an stp filter if that matters. Thanks for any help!!! Ps- my ac is really weak so I am hoping this helps.
I've found a mystery substance on the front frame under my 2016 F150 (XLT 3.5 NA, 4x4). This is located behind and below the radiator, just in front of the transmission cooler lines visible from the bottom.
I first thought engine oil since I have a small leak, but the engine oil level is not dropping. Then I figured it was ATF, but I recently had the front cooler lines replaced (and fresh fluid) and the fluid is not red. Next I thought it was undercoating, but it has been months since it was sprayed before the winter and nothing around the component is wet or sticky.
Could this be leaking from the front differential? But if that's the case, why isn't everything coated?
I've wiped off a portion of the frame and drawn a star, then took it for a drive, no new fluid or not enough to disrupt the drawing.
Any ideas based on the location?
Thank you in advance.
Hi everyone,
I'm having a really frustrating issue with my 2011 Honda Civic and I'm hoping someone can help.
I've replaced the front brake rotors and pads three times, but after driving for a while the problem always comes back. When I brake at highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes very badly.
The second time, I also replaced both front brake calipers with inexpensive aftermarket ones from Amazon. During the test drive, one of the brakes started smoking. The mechanic told me to keep driving because the caliper was probably just tight and would loosen up, but I'm not sure that was normal.
Another issue is that even when I'm not braking, the steering wheel shakes at highway speeds and the car constantly pulls to the right. An alignment was done and they said it was within spec.
One mechanic thinks the problem is a bad CV axle, but after reading online I'm wondering if it could be a sticking brake caliper or something else.
Has anyone experienced something similar? What would you check next?
Thanks!
Are my calipers cooked?
New pads and fluid, and hoses…
Done from a local shop
The car is a year 2000 mr2 spyder
Sound happens after driving for a minute or two and I just got new ceramic pads on
This morning my car wouldn’t start up. I’ve tried jumping it and when I did this was the result. Any ideas on what this could be? Advice on next steps. Thanks in advance!
I have a 2013 ford focus zectec automatic with 103k. Had it for 5 months. Driven 13k miles as my job involves a lot of driving. The battery light comes on once or twice a month. Alternator and battery checked and all good. It goes away after I shake the terminals well. Of as at April started showing “temperature too hot. Park safely “ once I turn off the car and start it back it works fine. Temperature change doesn’t go up but fan continues did like 1-2 min after engine is off. What can be wrong with it?
2025 Ford Transit 350 HD 3.5 was sent to the dealership to install a tow package. I got it back today and noticed the 4-pin connector dangling by a zip tie. I follow the wires into the back of the van and find that they just crimped the 4-pin connector into the turn signal wires. Now I know it will probably work this way, but that cannot be right.
I’ve worked on transits before they all have a trailer module on the driver side b pillar that controls trailer lights. My transit doesn’t have one installed. Does it need one? Do I take it back to the dealership?
As the title says my battery fell through the floor panel it was installed in under the back seat. I never thought I would need to be checking this area for potential fallout. So the question, is it worth it to fix this same spot for a new battery or would it be better to take the opportunity to relocate the battery to a different location in the car. If a different location, what are my best options that won't result in the same thing happening but in a different spot in the car? 2005 Buick lesabre limited 3.8L
I have a 2020 Honda civic sport 2.0 and I’m having AC issues. So here’s the background- I have recharged my ac 2 in the last 2.5 years. I go to AutoZone and buy the refrigerant for like $50 bucks. Anyways, when I start my car it makes a weird noise. Almost like gas releasing idk how to describe it. After I recharge it it my AC blows cold for several months until eventually it starts blowing warmer again. I’ve attached a video with the sound. Can anyone tell me how I can try to diagnose this myself. Money is tight and I have no issue putting in some elbow grease. Appreciate all the help.
Do any of them hold up for front end work, caliper bracket mounts, stuff at 100+ ft lbs, etc... That's probably the primary area I'd want to use on, something always gets in the way up there.
In the 90 category I'm seeing two styles. One looks like a flat oval and one looks like a torque wrench.
I recently replaced my power steering pump on my 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7L LX, but I’m still getting some squealing and chirps on tight corners. I assume there’s some air getting in/trapped, but bleeding didn’t help. The replacement pump didn’t come with a replacement o ring for the pipe suction fitting, and I’m having tracking one down so had to use the old one. Could air be getting in there?