okay so three weeks ago i went to go start it and boom it wouldn’t start no dash lights turn on but the check engine light (as in photo) and refused to start
i have replaced battery starter relay (i know starter is good) ignition switch and camshaft position sensor starter
2003 lexus es300 1mzfe v6 3.0 250000 miles automatic
So my check engine is on and I’m not sure if I should replace the catalytic converter for sure or not. I have a 2014 Jeep Patriot Latitude 2.4. I’m getting codes P0420 and P2015. I was told by 3 “mechanics” that it was my 02 sensors. I have had both replaced and check engine light still on. Was recommended to try Cataclean but I don’t drive it for the 10-15 miles they say to drive because I had an emergency I had to run home for. I haven’t had any issues with it turning on or driving really per se. but I do notice a little lag when I do accelerate. I’m not sure what I should do next. Don’t want to keep spending money for parts and labor and it’s not fixing the issue.
I know we always joke about “it can’t be tight if it’s liquid” but I was thinking, let’s say you’re working on a suspension component where the bolt absolutely will not come off, so you break out your trusty torch and turn it bright orange. After it cools obviously it’s still strong metal but does it compromise the integrity of the metal at all? For example I’m aware some metal heat treatment processes make some steels stronger but then more brittle. So idk what do yall think/know?
Watched a guy on YouTube, but he skipped over it
2019 toyota highlander se v6
Swapped an engine into my is300 after blowing the other one up. It started right up after the swap was done but when we drove it, first mile or two was great car was running well. Pulled over to the store got back in and started driving and started bogging out and shut off completely P1335 appeared. Was able to get it home and changed the crank sensor as I wasn’t sure how old the other one was probably original as it’s a 50k mile engine. Started up made it down the street and shut off. Swapped throttle bodies to the old one as a tps code popped up those codes went away and drove it and p1335 was gone but p0339 appeared. What can I check to fix this?
As I was jacking up the back of my car I noticed the castors on the back started to swivel and ever so slightly move the jack to the side.
The more I jack, the more they creep to the left, I let it down off bc I feel like it’s one pump away from twisting. Is this something to fear?
Most other times when lifting from the lift point on the sides the castors have never veered the jack this much.
Note this only happens once the back wheels are completely off
the ground and I try to get a bit of extra height to get the jack stands under.
I’m just scared it’s going to twist the jack too much and just completely fall.
2016 Hyundai Elantra GT
Long story short, oil light came on My wife's car yesterday. Noticed some spots on the driveway. Put it up on my little lift here, went underneath it to see where it could be leaking, and the usual areas of the oil pan, oil drain plug, and oil filter are perfectly dry (leak wise). I'm just going to assume it's burning up oil. The only possible leaks I see is what I see in the photo, and there's no way that oil is starting to leak that far back. Does anybody know what's underneath this area and the photos? The perspective is looking from the front of the car to the back.
How would you wash the padding in a toolcase?
I’m an apprentice and just got a toolcase. It’s owned by the shop so have had at least one owner before me. From what I have heard from my coworkers the previous owner wasn’t a very clean person in general. The tools is extremely dirty as you can see in the picture (the one on the left is cleaned while the right is not).
I can work my way through the tools but I would also like to clean the foam or whatever you call it. What would be the most efficient method for getting it clean without destroying it.
Found a major leak through this felt throttle shaft seal. Its a keihin carburetor off of a honda cbr 600f.
Cant find replacements, but im sure i can fit a rubber o ring. Would that work? There is a presseure spring pushing on this side when its in the carb assembly. Its weak tho.
Hi all, long time reader first time poster. I recently had repairs done for my 2016 VOLKSWAGEN TIGUAN AWD 2.0L DOHC TURBO for the Rear Main Seal & Timing Chain. However, after picking it up, I was still experiencing the rough idle on cold start and the check engine light was on. I brought it back and was informed it was due to carbon build up. Thinking it would be a cheap fix but came back with a >$2k repair (estimate attached) - does this seem fair? I am in the DC area (shop is in PG County). Is this something I could do myself with minimal car repair experience? Any and all advice is appreciated...
Last time I went to the mechanic I told him to replace the coolant. He called me and said it looked ok did I still want him to do it. Of course I told him no(lol). I'm wondering what is the consensus with changing these fluids? I asked about the transmission fluid and he told me no need to drain amd refill just to top it off(and he only charged me like $10 I guess for the little bit of fluid he used)? Can these fluids be inspected or do I need to change them at an interval. Both have been changed once(car has 145k miles) so both sets of fluid have around 100k on them.
Hey all sometimes but not all the time when I start up my car the RPMs will do this weird thing where it drops to like 500ish then correct itself and usually it only lasts a couple seconds but this time it kept going until I revved the car and then it stabilized. What is the issue and is it a hard fix?
Thank you in advance :)
I'm a novice DIY mechanic. Done drum brakes, disc brakes, most fluids, front back suspension, wheel bearing (inside drum cover) to name a few jobs. Had a really bad time with a stuck drum cover which prompted me to want to have the right tool for the job around.
Right now I have the following (in addition to most hand/power tools):
6T hydraulic press
Seal and driver set (18mm to 65mm)
Slide hammer kit
Coolant leak detector kit
Ball joint splitter set (comes with 5)
Bearing/gear puller set
Are there any other of these "kits" or tools that are worth getting for that one time you wish you had them? And are the ones in the pictures going to be useful to me considering what I've already got?
I'm struggling to think where I'd use the ball joint press kit as if I'm replacing a part with a ball joint in it I'd most probably replace the whole part like a lower control arm. And as for the two bearing press kits, which is the better/more versatile kit?
For what it's worth I only plan on working on smaller cars like 2005-2015 toyota yarises.
Thanks
2013 4runner. What am i hearing here? Ive had this sound coming from my left front suspension for quite some time when i make turns and especially if i unsettle the suspension while turning. My initial though was ball joints so i slowly started replacing all ball joints on this side, uca, lca, end link, inner and outer tie rods. None of that has fixed the issue, if anything it has gotten worse over time. I also have the repeated issue of the rotor warping on this corner as well. Wheel bearing seems fine, no noise or play. Im stumped.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Tucson that i got the radiator and valve cover gasket replaced due to a coolant leaking issue. The mechanic suggested to replace radiator and coolant flushing and top up.
After 2 days, about 50KM drive, car suddenly turned off while I was stuck in traffic and I noticed slight smoke coming from engine bay with sweet burnt smell when I had it parked. (Car turned on again with temp rising and I had it parked safely about 2km drive)
Any advice?
Hi all, long time lurker.
I have a 2018 Ram 1500 5.7 that all of a sudden is giving me problems. Yesterday I drove around in the morning and parked to eat breakfast. After getting back in my truck, it wouldn't start. Just a couple clicks, then nothing. Luckily there was an auto parts store in the same parking lot. I removed my battery and took it to get tested.
They said it failed because of CCA.
Bought a new battery. Installed. Drove around all day for my work. Went out this morning, and it won't even click with the new battery. Reading 12.71 volts. Is this signs of a bad alternator? Or what else could it be?
Thanks in advance
Hi all, Since having new tyres fitted and wheel alignment done I have recently I have noticed a whinning sound when steering to the left on this 2007 Honda Civic.
There are no vibrations, sounds or noticeable alignment issues when steering right or driving in a straight line. Today I have checked that the lug nuts are torqued to spec, and noticed movement in the front left wheel when pushing on left and right side of the wheel (no sound or movement whilst pushing top to bottom).
I am thinking either wheel bearing or potentially some issue with top strut, but keen for your thoughts.
Thanks
Hi my car started perfectly fine and was running for about 10 seconds as usual then suddenly cut out as if the plug was pulled out. It then didn't start up again and its making this noise, I suspected the starter motor but I've tried bump starting it several times and nothing. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Its a petrol, manual, 1992 Nissan Micra K10.
Vehicle is a 2007 ford escape. Video attached is the sound the engine was making before it shut down.I took it in for an oil change and drove it about 45 km home and didn’t notice anything was off. Next morning it started and as I was driving to work I noticed a burning smell and a loud knocking noise from my engine. Took the attached video and finished my shift, came back and it wouldn’t turn over. Got it towed to the shop where I got my oil changed and mechanic told me it was the alternator. To me that noise sounds like there’s no oil in it and I just want to make sure I’m not getting hosed. Looking for a second opinion, thanks!!
Mini update: The shop I took it to started it up today and said it is running fine with no noise, I never told them to do anything to the car yet and suddenly it’s working fine… still don’t know anything about cars but seems like a strange coincidence
I drive a 2011 VW Tiguan S 2.0L 4cyl w/128k miles. Regular maintenance and oil changes all up to date. Previous related work done: oil pump, oil pan, and sensor replaced entirely in 2023.
Current issue: Two days ago, it threw a low oil pressure light (the bad one - red flashing) and then turned off while driving near my office. Immediately took it to a reputable shop .5 mi away, they diagnosed as two leaks, one on PCV valve and upper engine front cover gasket. Replaced the timing cover and did clamp reseal on the PCV valve as near term fix on the PCV, did oil change and replaced oil filter.
Drove home, car threw the same light after 40 min on highway when I hit a slow bit. Immediately called shop, they said it was fine to drive home and then back to them in the AM. Today, I checked oil level (normal and fresh) and same thing - 40 min in, slow section, oil pressure light came back on, went off, came back on, went off, drove remaining 1 mi to shop since they said it was okay to drive. No code comes up with my code reader.
Thoughts on what this could be or what to check further?
I’ve done a lot of relatively expensive work in the last 3 years (think ~$1500/year avg - oil pump, oil pan, intake manifold, transmission leak, oil cooler lines, more intake manifold work) to keep it in use thinking an expensive-to-maintain car is still cheaper at this mileage than a new-to-me low mileage car, but starting to wonder about reliability / whether it’s time to call it quits on this car.
