2021 Honda Passport. Just got an oil change today and stick looks like this. My fiance drove 2500 miles past it's oil change suggestion. Should it still look like this or did I get ripped off?
I paid a shop to install a torque converter in my truck, and a parts store sent them the torque converter for the other transmission they put in my year/model truck. I have confirmation of the wrong part being installed, and I also have confirmation from the shop that eventually rebuilt my transmission that the incorrect TC being put in damaged the pump in my transmission. I also took the truck back after it was throwing codes and having multiple issues it wasn’t having before.
Does the shop have a leg to stand on when it comes to me asking them to foot the bill for the rebuild?
Bad or good investment?
Also I’m a girl idk anything about cars lol
2015 Jeep Compass
Started car and began driving, heard very loud thumping from rear
Tail pipe snapped off from muffler? Thank you
How do I go about fixing this bolt? I was changing the rear struts of my 2007 pontiac vibe 1.8l 1zzfe and the lower bolt snapped. Does this mean the hole rear assembly needs to be swapped?
So went to use the van one night and it gave a right rear door issue on the dash. I decided to look at it for a little that night, lubed and cleaned the latches and what not.....didnt help
Once the door closes it goes to pull in the rear latch and then as you can see releases it. I picked up a new rear latch and replaced it a couple days later. Still doing the same thing, but the latch does move alot smoother. No fuses are blown, the door wont try to latch at all if you unplug the squish sensor from the front, I dont have a way to test the end since my probes are too big. The honda service manual tells the correct ohms for when it is pressed and depressed.
I also can old manually open and close the door, which happened at the same time, so I wasnt sure if it was related to the motor or if the motor was related to it.
Thanks for any other ideas!
Bought a (new to me) 2012 RAM 1500 4.7L V8 back in January at 130,000 miles on it. I’ve done all the necessary maintenance so far except the transmission fluid. Today I called a local transmission shop to see if they could change my filter and fluid and they told me they can’t do it unless I provide documentation showing it’s been changed otherwise it’s too high of a liability for them. They also said they recommend I don’t change it since it could cause damage to it. Not sure what to do here, I’m pretty sure it’s been done within the last 70k miles just because my fluid doesn’t look horrible but I also don’t have the documentation available to prove it.
My girlfriend’s rear passenger caliper seized, and ever since then I’m getting a EPB fault code with her brake light flashing. I’ve replaced the entire caliper and EPB, but the passenger actuator won’t respond to anything.
I’m getting a steady voltage of 11.5 at the connector, even when someone activates the parking brake. I’m honestly at a loss. I hate EPBs. Anyone know what I’m running into?
hi, i’m a 20y/o tech at a classic car shop, i’ve been here for just over 2 years, and started as a shop b*tch with very little real experience on classics, as far as now, i’ve become the interior/upholstery guy for the shop, i do carpets dynomatt reupholstery/recovery on seats and headliners/ other trim pieces, i sometimes do wiring but am very fluent in all realms of working on cars besides suspension, i make $15 a hour with a base of 40 hours a week, so bassicly $500, and then $7 a flag hour, i clock anywhere from 10-50 depending on what jobs im doing for that week, anywho im starting to feel stuck, am i being paid to little for the work i produce?
i live in austin texas, i have no certifications or ASE’s
Just got an oil change this morning and noticed oil at the bottom of the filter. Is this normal after a filter change? Or is there a possible leak?
Car: Lexus CT200H, ZWA10L-AHXBBW (2016)
Ever since I purchased the car back in 2021 my windshield wiper on the driver’s side has been having some major vibration at the bottom part and it has never made any annoying sound. First, I thought it was because of the non-OEM wipers from Bosch that were put on the car, and I didn't think any more of it.
Now, 5 years later, I have installed the OEM wipers on the car, and it still vibrates the same way on the driver’s side. I thought maybe it isn't tightened enough, but I have had my windshield replaced a couple of times, and that has never changed anything. So unless the Lexus dealership where I replaced my windshield has not done the tightening correctly multiple times I don't think it's the tightening.
The issue happens even when it's raining so it should not be about the windshield being too dry.
Now I am really stuck on this issue, trying to figure out what is causing it and how to fix it.
I’m a girl so idk much about cars but from my research it looks reliable! Lmk !
Good Evening, I have a 2018 5.3 silvarado with a 6L80 transmission in it. I pulled the transmission, am having it rebuilt and replacing the torque converter with a LUK T0017. I have to flush my transmission cooler which I’m sure has metal debris in it from the failing torque converter. The issue I’m having is that the transmission cooler goes through my radiator, in this case would it be better to use a trans cooler cleaner from the auto parts store and air to clean it out or replace the whole radiator with cooler?
So my wife's 2014 civic had this light come on 3 months ago after I changed the battery and alternator.
Since then there have been no issues. Now today the light turned on again when she got in it to head home from work. She turned it off to check connections , and after she turned it back on the light is off again.
Im hoping to find out why the light might be coming on suddenly and then not again for another 3 months.
Any help is appreciated.
I suspect there is either an issue with the alternator (remanufactued) or maybe a fuse or connection ?
Just started doing this in the morning
I'm working on this car (Wartburg 353 1976 1L), thats been sitting for about 10 years, and I almost have everything running and working, however even tho the turn signals work fine, the hazards don't. (While working on them they started working for about 3 clicks, and I didnt touch any wires for it to start and stop working.)
I would be very greatfull for any advice on what is the problem and how to fix it.
(I have measured some values on the switch and relay, if it would help.)
Hey guys, looking for some insight on this rattle on my 2006 Honda Rebel 250.
Context on how this started: The bike was heavily overfilled on oil by accident and got really hot, which built up crazy pressure and violently blew the crankshaft snout oil seal completely out of its seat. I took everything apart to fix the leak, but ever since reassembling, I’ve had this persistent mechanical rattle.
I’ve had the flywheel off 4 times now trying to get this right. Here is exactly how it's currently put together:
>The starter sprocket and flywheel were bench-assembled (twisting past the rollers) so everything clicked in right.
>The whole assembly was slid onto the crankshaft snout together on a good woodruff key.
>The main flywheel bolt is fully torqued to spec at 33 lb·ft using a chain strap wrench to hold it.
The engine idles completely smooth and steady with the choke off, but the rattle is super clear at low idle. When I give it gas or pull the choke to speed it up, the noise seems to go away or get masked. Also worth noting: when I pulled the flywheel off one of the times, one of the starter clutch rollers completely fell out like it was loose.
Airbox is bone dry, and the oil didn't look foamy when it originally leaked out. What am I missing here? Did the extreme heat/pressure warp my starter clutch housing, drop an idler gear bushing, or is it something else entirely?
Any help is appreciated!
Hi there,
My apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this question but I've run into an issue after my truck was repaired.
I drive a 2017 Ford F150 XL with the 5.0L V8 engine. I took it to my local dealership service shop at the end of July to get the fix for the recent recall and check out a transmission shudder that had started in mid-July. They ended up replacing the torque converter (which was expensive), but I got it figured out and got the car back. The next time I drove to work, the check engine light came on as well as the wrench symbol (4x4 fault according to manual), and the engine bay started running unusually loud (noise sounded like a fan or blower). I got the engine code with a scanner, saw it was related to the torque converter, and immediately brought the truck back to the shop. The part was back ordered, so I had to wait several days, but I was assured I would not be responsible for the cost of the replacement and additional repair.
Fast forward to today, I get a call saying my car is finished, but they need additional money for the part because their technician previously installed an aftermarket part (which I was not made aware of) and now they had put the OEM part in. The part costs over $700, on top of the more than $4000 that I already paid for the initial repair. I was not informed of this price difference until after they had finished installing the new part, and was expecting that everything was already covered. I am just hoping to get some advice as to what my options are here. I am currently of the opinion that I should not be liable for the additional $700, but would appreciate any feedback folks could provide.
Thanks!
After heavy rain, there’s always water in my passenger foot well. Not on top of the rubber mat I have on there but directly on the carpet underneath. What could it be?
Car is a 2000 Rav 4 in Australia (incase passenger side placement matters(