Trying to do the bread trick with my pilot bearing, but it's not coming out. Been hammering bread for 30 mins.
The seal was crushed like that before starting, but I didn't think much of it. Now I feel like my bearing is stuck in there 100%.
Thoughts on how to remove it?
Was going to port my turbo waste gate but noticed a small crack. I want to say it's okay to put back together but I'm not sure.
Opinions?
So a couple side seals were bent during shipping (already refunded). Would I be able to bend them back and use them if they spring freely, or is this not recommended and I'm better off just getting new ones.
Thank you
Was pressing my bearings in and this happened to my side seals. Side seals don't fit properly anymore.
Is this some I can fix with a tiny file or this may cause issues down the line?
Any advice is appreciated!
So I messed up on my rear rotor. I thought I could eyeball the alignment of the notch, but I messed up and ended up having to press it back out and put it back in. In the process I nicked the bearing interior and there is a slight scratch that catches my fingernail.
I am planning to replace that one, does anyone have any advice for next time?
And should I be concerned about the metal shavings visible in the photos (edge of bearing)
Thank you!
Hi all,
So I found out that Mazda stamped letters A-E to indicate different weights for rotors.
Upon taking apart my FD engine I saw that one rotor was weight C and the other weight E.
It looks like they cannot vary by more than one letter, but I'm a bit confused because I see no signs of my engine being taken apart before and it has about 45k ish miles on it, so I want to say it came like this from factory? But I'm not certain
I'm curious to find out if these truly are mismatched rotors or im okay to put them back in without having to balance them.
Welp due to me being careless moving the housings around I dinged up two spots on the sides.
I'm assuming it will just eat up that part of the apex seal faster?
I don't know how bad this damage is, and if my housings are still okay to use.
What are y'alls thoughts / advice?
Welp after cleaning all the caked up carbon, this is what I found for the front rotors. There's dings and small amounts of pitting on each face, alongside with a good hole on one of the faces.
(I used a silicone carbide nylon wheel hence all the scratch marks. I realized its not a good idea.)
Just from that dent on the side, I don't think it's usable. Any second opinions on this?
It's my first rebuild so please bear with me! Thank you in advance.
The first photo is the front iron I believe, the second is the rear and the last one is the center iron front side.
I didn't see any grooves or get my fingernail caught on the rest of the irons except the center iron on the last photo where I marked the bad spots.
Wondering what are your guys thoughts on these. Would anyone suggest re lapping or just get a new one?
There are some grooves that just barely catch my finger nail, but they still do.
Any opinions / thoughts on this, it's my first time rebuilding a rotary.
I tried doing the hammer method just slamming the top left side of the flywheel but it won't budge.
Additionally my e shaft is not secured and it's moving axially every time I hit the flywheel, and I can hear it clanging against metal, so don't know if I will damage something if I keep on whacking with the large sledge hammer.
Any advice on how to proceed?
I did check for shaft play, there was some small radial side to side but no axial play.
In a previous post I mistaken these for 99 spec but turns out its the same series 6-8 turbos. Not too sure which one is the primary or secondary, I believe the secondary turbo is the side with the actuator mounting holes? Looks like heavy carbon build up on that side?
This car sat for a long time so the coolant channels have a bunch of gunk and goo in them, and there is the classic surface rust on it.
Other than that, is this junk or can it be reused?
My turbos are from a 99 FD so these are 99 spec, primary turbo was spooling like normal before I took the engine out. The secondary never kicked in due to a vacuum leak, so I never got to see if it worked.
I'm relatively new to this so I can't really tell the health of my turbos. Additionally in the last image, it looks like a chunk of metal is gone from the circled area. Doesn't look to good to me.
Any advice / opinions are appreciated!
I'm trying to pop off the knuckle from the steering rack input shaft to create clearance and remove the downpipe, but it won't seem to budge. Read online that I could use a prybar. Am I suppose to wedge the pry bar in the knuckle and crank toward the firewall?
First time working on an FD (any car matter fact) and I'm afraid of doing something wrong and damaging things.
Any advice on how to disconnect it?
I want to study over the summer for the ECE 35 wavier exams, would anyone have advice for what kind of prep material would be the best for ECE35 waviers?
I've taken circuits at my CC but I didn't learn much.
I tried looking for Curt Schurgers lecture videos but couldn't find any, nor could I find a resource website for ECE 35 like ECE 15.
If anyone has some ECE 35 ball knowledge to share it would be much appreciated.
SO I finally found out why my right side head lights are slightly crooked. Looks like the bucket / bolt holding it in is bent due to the crazy rust.
Anyone have experience with something like this before?
So I hit the fuel tank with a good 2 day citric acid soak and it got the majority of the rust out. However after hitting it with baking soda + water and letting it dry, I noticed there are still some stubborn rust spots that the acid didn't quite reach.
Would yall suggest another round of soaking using something strong? Would wood bleach (oxalis acid) be better?
I noticed under my CRV on my FD to what I assume is the heater core to have some oil staining. Could it be cracked lines for the OMP?
How big of an issue is this and what should I do?
Thank you